Barbecue (alt.food.barbecue) Discuss barbecue and grilling--southern style "low and slow" smoking of ribs, shoulders and briskets, as well as direct heat grilling of everything from burgers to salmon to vegetables.

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  #1 (permalink)   Report Post  
phyteach
 
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Default Char Broil Silver Smoker

Greetings all,

Broke down and bought the Char-Broil silver smoker, formerly
known as the NBBD. Here are a few observations:

Faily easy to assemble, all parts included, and all teh holes lined up
as they should. I noticed a gap (~1/16 to 1/32 inch) between the
firebox and the smoking chamber. Since the face of the smoking chamber
was a bit bulged, I assume that it is normal.

I made two of the mods in the FAQ, the flashing in the exhaust stack,
and the flashing over the firebox exit. I decided to be crafty with
the second, though. I figured "Hey, they make hi-temp gaskets out of
aluminium, why not place the flashing on the surface between the
firebox and the smoking chamber?" And before anyone asks, no the
flashing isn't causing the gap, as I tried it both with and without. I
simply traced the hole pattern and it worked. However, I think that
the piece that hangs down might be too large and too restrictive as I
could only get to about 230 on the cooking grate. Fire was briquettes
(yeah, I know...) and firebox vents were wide open. It was about 60,
sunny and no wind, with the unit in the sunshine. I am going to either
remove some material, or see if I can slant it upward a bit more to
increase airflow. Any thoughts are appreciated.

Regards,
Scott

  #2 (permalink)   Report Post  
Dana H. Myers
 
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phyteach wrote:
> Greetings all,
>
> Broke down and bought the Char-Broil silver smoker, formerly
> known as the NBBD


Are you sure? I think it was formerly know as the NBSS, often
shortened to NBS.

> However, I think that
> the piece that hangs down might be too large and too restrictive as I
> could only get to about 230 on the cooking grate. Fire was briquettes
> (yeah, I know...) and firebox vents were wide open.


Try some lump; briquettes have never run as hot for me.
I suppose I could try cooking something with briquettes,
I haven't in a long time, and pay close attention, but I
bet you need a firebox pretty full of briquettes to get
over 250F.

Dana
  #3 (permalink)   Report Post  
Dana H. Myers
 
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Default

phyteach wrote:
> Greetings all,
>
> Broke down and bought the Char-Broil silver smoker, formerly
> known as the NBBD


Are you sure? I think it was formerly know as the NBSS, often
shortened to NBS.

> However, I think that
> the piece that hangs down might be too large and too restrictive as I
> could only get to about 230 on the cooking grate. Fire was briquettes
> (yeah, I know...) and firebox vents were wide open.


Try some lump; briquettes have never run as hot for me.
I suppose I could try cooking something with briquettes,
I haven't in a long time, and pay close attention, but I
bet you need a firebox pretty full of briquettes to get
over 250F.

Dana
  #4 (permalink)   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default


phyteach wrote:
> Greetings all,
>
> Broke down and bought the Char-Broil silver smoker, formerly
> known as the NBBD. Here are a few observations:
>
> Faily easy to assemble, all parts included, and all teh holes lined

up
> as they should. I noticed a gap (~1/16 to 1/32 inch) between the
> firebox and the smoking chamber. Since the face of the smoking

chamber
> was a bit bulged, I assume that it is normal.


Welcome!
I have the same issue with my New Braunfels model that is the Uncle of
your Char-Broil model.


> I made two of the mods in the FAQ, the flashing in the exhaust stack,
> and the flashing over the firebox exit. I decided to be crafty with
> the second, though. I figured "Hey, they make hi-temp gaskets out of
> aluminium, why not place the flashing on the surface between the
> firebox and the smoking chamber?" And before anyone asks, no the
> flashing isn't causing the gap, as I tried it both with and without.

I
> simply traced the hole pattern and it worked. However, I think that
> the piece that hangs down might be too large and too restrictive as I
> could only get to about 230 on the cooking grate. Fire was

briquettes
> (yeah, I know...) and firebox vents were wide open. It was about 60,
> sunny and no wind, with the unit in the sunshine. I am going to

either
> remove some material, or see if I can slant it upward a bit more to
> increase airflow. Any thoughts are appreciated.



I've made the same two mods you mentioned and well worth the time, I
DID NOT use aluminum flashing. Aluminum, as I recall, can add some
nasties to the smoke that you might not want on your meat.

I'm going to try to extend the smokestack in the other direction to see
if that has a positive effect on drawing the smoke out. If that doesn't
work I'll get out some more Red RTV sealer and seal it from the
outside.

Rob

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phyteach
 
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Default


Dana H. Myers wrote:
> phyteach wrote:
> > Greetings all,
> >
> > Broke down and bought the Char-Broil silver smoker, formerly
> > known as the NBBD

>
> Are you sure? I think it was formerly know as the NBSS, often
> shortened to NBS.



That may be, I drew that conclusion based only on 732 sq in cooking
area as listed in the FAQ.


>
> > However, I think that
> > the piece that hangs down might be too large and too restrictive as

I
> > could only get to about 230 on the cooking grate. Fire was

briquettes
> > (yeah, I know...) and firebox vents were wide open.

>
> Try some lump; briquettes have never run as hot for me.
> I suppose I could try cooking something with briquettes,
> I haven't in a long time, and pay close attention, but I
> bet you need a firebox pretty full of briquettes to get
> over 250F.
>
> Dana


Lump is hotter, but is it also fairly consistent? In other words will
the same amount of lump generate the same amount of heat,
approximately. Also, does lump last longer than briquettes? I know it
doesn't ash as much.

Scott



  #6 (permalink)   Report Post  
phyteach
 
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Default

I was under the impression that galvanized was the stuff to watch out
for. Don't they make cookware out of aluminum?

Could you please describe the dimensions of the flashing between the
smoker chamber and firebox?

Thanks a bunch!

Scott

  #7 (permalink)   Report Post  
phyteach
 
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I was under the impression that galvanized was the stuff to watch out
for. Don't they make cookware out of aluminum?

Could you please describe the dimensions of the flashing between the
smoker chamber and firebox?

Thanks a bunch!

Scott

  #8 (permalink)   Report Post  
Dana H. Myers
 
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Default

phyteach wrote:

> Lump is hotter, but is it also fairly consistent?


Yes.

> In other words will
> the same amount of lump generate the same amount of heat,
> approximately.


Yes, at least.

> Also, does lump last longer than briquettes?


In my experience, for a given mass of lump, you
get more cooking than the same mass of briquettes.
Never really done research on lump vs briquettes
'cause briquettes smell funny and leave trash in
the firepit.

> I know it
> doesn't ash as much.


Yeah, lump generates ash. Briquettes leave a pile
of lime and crap in the bottom of the firebox, I suppose
there's some ash in there but it's more like unmixed
concrete than ash.

Find a good source for lump and you'll never look back.
(I'm fortunate to be able to visit Lazarri's and will-call
40lbs bags of hardwood lump when I want; but Wal-Mart also
carries Royal Oak)

Dana
  #9 (permalink)   Report Post  
Dana H. Myers
 
Posts: n/a
Default

phyteach wrote:

> Lump is hotter, but is it also fairly consistent?


Yes.

> In other words will
> the same amount of lump generate the same amount of heat,
> approximately.


Yes, at least.

> Also, does lump last longer than briquettes?


In my experience, for a given mass of lump, you
get more cooking than the same mass of briquettes.
Never really done research on lump vs briquettes
'cause briquettes smell funny and leave trash in
the firepit.

> I know it
> doesn't ash as much.


Yeah, lump generates ash. Briquettes leave a pile
of lime and crap in the bottom of the firebox, I suppose
there's some ash in there but it's more like unmixed
concrete than ash.

Find a good source for lump and you'll never look back.
(I'm fortunate to be able to visit Lazarri's and will-call
40lbs bags of hardwood lump when I want; but Wal-Mart also
carries Royal Oak)

Dana
  #10 (permalink)   Report Post  
Dana H. Myers
 
Posts: n/a
Default

phyteach wrote:

> Lump is hotter, but is it also fairly consistent?


Yes.

> In other words will
> the same amount of lump generate the same amount of heat,
> approximately.


Yes, at least.

> Also, does lump last longer than briquettes?


In my experience, for a given mass of lump, you
get more cooking than the same mass of briquettes.
Never really done research on lump vs briquettes
'cause briquettes smell funny and leave trash in
the firepit.

> I know it
> doesn't ash as much.


Yeah, lump generates ash. Briquettes leave a pile
of lime and crap in the bottom of the firebox, I suppose
there's some ash in there but it's more like unmixed
concrete than ash.

Find a good source for lump and you'll never look back.
(I'm fortunate to be able to visit Lazarri's and will-call
40lbs bags of hardwood lump when I want; but Wal-Mart also
carries Royal Oak)

Dana


  #11 (permalink)   Report Post  
 
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Default


phyteach wrote:
> I was under the impression that galvanized was the stuff to watch out
> for. Don't they make cookware out of aluminum?
>
> Could you please describe the dimensions of the flashing between the
> smoker chamber and firebox?
>
> Thanks a bunch!
>
> Scott


Scott-

You might be right on that first point. It's been a while since I did
the mods.

I used the flashing as a radiant heat deflector inside the cook
chamber.
It's attached to the screw at about the 12 o'clock position that hooks
the firebox and it runs down to about grate level.

Like Dana says, use the lump charcoal. My Wal-Mart doens't carry it
but, my Lowe's carries Cowboy brand. I swear I must be one of two
people that uses lump around here. Everytime I buy it a clerk, cashier,
or customer ask me "Is that stuff any good?" Usually tell 'em "Yeah I
love it, just light it with newspaper." This might cause a local
shortage but, I don't think the Store Manager will mind ordering more.
He owes me BIG time anyway.

Also, if the fire grate in the firebox is running longways (left to
right) along the fire box, turn it 45 degrees so it runs front to back.
Better airflow for the coals. More efficent burn and less ash..
Rob

  #13 (permalink)   Report Post  
PB
 
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Default

Anyone know if these mods are safe for the Sierra Smoker? They look very
similar (aside from smokestack location). I definatley notice a huge "hot
spot" on the firebox end of the somker chamber. I'm losing 1/3 of the grill
area because of it.




"phyteach" > wrote in message
ups.com...
> Greetings all,
>
> Broke down and bought the Char-Broil silver smoker, formerly
> known as the NBBD. Here are a few observations:
>
> Faily easy to assemble, all parts included, and all teh holes lined up
> as they should. I noticed a gap (~1/16 to 1/32 inch) between the
> firebox and the smoking chamber. Since the face of the smoking chamber
> was a bit bulged, I assume that it is normal.
>
> I made two of the mods in the FAQ, the flashing in the exhaust stack,
> and the flashing over the firebox exit. I decided to be crafty with
> the second, though. I figured "Hey, they make hi-temp gaskets out of
> aluminium, why not place the flashing on the surface between the
> firebox and the smoking chamber?" And before anyone asks, no the
> flashing isn't causing the gap, as I tried it both with and without. I
> simply traced the hole pattern and it worked. However, I think that
> the piece that hangs down might be too large and too restrictive as I
> could only get to about 230 on the cooking grate. Fire was briquettes
> (yeah, I know...) and firebox vents were wide open. It was about 60,
> sunny and no wind, with the unit in the sunshine. I am going to either
> remove some material, or see if I can slant it upward a bit more to
> increase airflow. Any thoughts are appreciated.
>
> Regards,
> Scott
>



  #14 (permalink)   Report Post  
Duwop
 
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Default

"PB" > wrote in message
.. .
> Anyone know if these mods are safe for the Sierra Smoker? They look very
> similar (aside from smokestack location). I definatley notice a huge "hot
> spot" on the firebox end of the somker chamber. I'm losing 1/3 of the

grill
> area because of it.
>


Those mods are a good idea on all offsets that don't have them already
designed in.

I'd not reccomend you bolting something on too permamently, it seems that
some poorer jobs can hinder air flow pretty bad.

D
--




  #15 (permalink)   Report Post  
Duwop
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"PB" > wrote in message
.. .
> Anyone know if these mods are safe for the Sierra Smoker? They look very
> similar (aside from smokestack location). I definatley notice a huge "hot
> spot" on the firebox end of the somker chamber. I'm losing 1/3 of the

grill
> area because of it.
>


Those mods are a good idea on all offsets that don't have them already
designed in.

I'd not reccomend you bolting something on too permamently, it seems that
some poorer jobs can hinder air flow pretty bad.

D
--






  #16 (permalink)   Report Post  
 
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Default


Dana H. Myers wrote:
> Do you mean 45 degrees or 90 degrees? :-)
>
> I had to turn mine 90 degrees - and it works way better.
>


Aw man, my bad! 90 degrees is right.

Rob

  #17 (permalink)   Report Post  
Brick
 
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Default


On 11-Apr-2005, "phyteach" > wrote:

> Greetings all,
>
> Broke down and bought the Char-Broil silver smoker, formerly
> known as the NBBD. Here are a few observations:
>
> Faily easy to assemble, all parts included, and all teh holes lined up
> as they should. I noticed a gap (~1/16 to 1/32 inch) between the
> firebox and the smoking chamber. Since the face of the smoking chamber
> was a bit bulged, I assume that it is normal.
>
> I made two of the mods in the FAQ, the flashing in the exhaust stack,
> and the flashing over the firebox exit. I decided to be crafty with
> the second, though. I figured "Hey, they make hi-temp gaskets out of
> aluminium, why not place the flashing on the surface between the
> firebox and the smoking chamber?" And before anyone asks, no the
> flashing isn't causing the gap, as I tried it both with and without. I
> simply traced the hole pattern and it worked. However, I think that
> the piece that hangs down might be too large and too restrictive as I
> could only get to about 230 on the cooking grate. Fire was briquettes
> (yeah, I know...) and firebox vents were wide open. It was about 60,
> sunny and no wind, with the unit in the sunshine. I am going to either
> remove some material, or see if I can slant it upward a bit more to
> increase airflow. Any thoughts are appreciated.
>
> Regards,
> Scott


I won't try to tell you what to do Scott. That mod at the firebox opening
into the cook chamber is solely designed to keep radient heat, (that is
IR heat direct from hot coals/flame from getting into the cook chamber.)
By and large it only affects the first 1/4 of the grate next to the firebox.
Do an eyeball inspection on your pit. Wherever your meat can see fire,
that is what you're trying to avoid. Adjust you modifications accordingly.

Brick (Keep the shiny side up)

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  #18 (permalink)   Report Post  
Allen Epps
 
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In article .com>,
"> wrote:

> Dana H. Myers wrote:
> > Do you mean 45 degrees or 90 degrees? :-)
> >
> > I had to turn mine 90 degrees - and it works way better.
> >

>
> Aw man, my bad! 90 degrees is right.
>
> Rob
>

Thanks for the suggestion. I broke mine in on some babybacks last
weekend and they turned out great. I used a mixture of Hickory about
twice the size of my fist and "Green Egg" brand lump and the grate temp
went up to about 400 very quickly. I started regulating and the ribs
went on when I got it down to 275. I only had to add charcoal once.
Next weekend a slab of venision ham! I did put some aluminum foil on
the bottom racks to make clean up a little easier

Allen
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