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On 8/11/2013 1:55 PM, Gary wrote:

> My how time flys. I said maybe 5 years ago... The law went into effect
> 10 years ago.
> http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/fr/1008150/posts
>
> Seems my apartment complex would be exempt but they didn't take it
> that way. You agree in your lease here not to use them now.


They might get a break on their insurance if people don't have grills.
Or their insurance company might insist on it.

nancy
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On 8/10/2013 8:46 PM, JBurns wrote:
> That is what thousands of people did before the advent of auto
> ignition, the only difference is you are using a match rather than the
> auto spark. What you are lighting is the gas coming out of the burner
>
> Make sure you light the match before turning on the gas.


This is good advice. The pilot light gas stove that we had when I was a
kid could not be counted on to reliably light the burner. I'd turn the
thing on and most times the burners lit. Every once in a while the thing
wouldn't and I would just be pumping gas into the kitchen. After a
second or two, the realization that the burner was not lighting would
hit me and I'd have to turn the gas off. I'd turn my face away while
doing it just in case the thing decided to light, or more appropriately,
detonate.

I'd have to peek underneath the burners to see if the pilot was still
on. If it was, I'd fan the burner with my hand to clear the gas out of
the area and try again. If that still didn't work, I'd have to light it
manually with a match. Such was my procedure for lighting the gas stove
when I was a kid.

>
> JB
>


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"dsi1" > wrote in message
...
> On 8/10/2013 8:46 PM, JBurns wrote:
>> That is what thousands of people did before the advent of auto
>> ignition, the only difference is you are using a match rather than the
>> auto spark. What you are lighting is the gas coming out of the burner
>>
>> Make sure you light the match before turning on the gas.

>
> This is good advice. The pilot light gas stove that we had when I was a
> kid could not be counted on to reliably light the burner. I'd turn the
> thing on and most times the burners lit. Every once in a while the thing
> wouldn't and I would just be pumping gas into the kitchen. After a second
> or two, the realization that the burner was not lighting would hit me and
> I'd have to turn the gas off. I'd turn my face away while doing it just in
> case the thing decided to light, or more appropriately, detonate.
>
> I'd have to peek underneath the burners to see if the pilot was still on.
> If it was, I'd fan the burner with my hand to clear the gas out of the
> area and try again. If that still didn't work, I'd have to light it
> manually with a match. Such was my procedure for lighting the gas stove
> when I was a kid.
>


I worked in a kitchen that had similar pilot issues. People there thought I
was a magician because they did not see me blowing, or sometimes I would
wave my hand to get it to light. Simpletons.


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In article >,
bigwheel > wrote:

> Quinch;1855230 Wrote:
> > I've recently switched to an electrical stove, and there's something
> > that bugs the living daylights out of me. Namely, heat transference.
> >
> > The elements are metal, and so are the pans. Neither of these is
> > particularly pliable, which means that there's very little actual
> > surface contact between the two, so there's probably a hell of a lot of
> > heat loss.
> >
> > So my question is, is there anything to help with that, like some sort
> > of soft, heat-conductive pad that goes between the two to help with heat
> > transference {for the computer-wise, basically thermal paste, except in
> > solid form}.
> >
> > Or anything else that works, really.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Quinch

>
> Never heard of many folks worrying about that kinda stuff. If the
> elements are touching the bottom of the pan..not too much heat is going
> to be lost. Have you got any good cookware? That should help more than
> anything. Making sure the pan construction contains one of our two best
> available heat conducting metals i.e. copper or aluminum. I have a giant
> high dollar All Clad brand SS stew/bean/chili pot which has a waffle
> bottom made of Aluminum. Its a cooking marvel. lol Cast iron is
> tolerable but not as good as the other two. Solid SS has terrible
> conductive properties. Now the cats meow is hard anodized aluminum. That
> is what the big boys and girls use. They tend to be proud of those when
> you go to buy one. Kindly keeps us posted as event's unfold themselves.


The anodizing is no help for cooking, only for looking good.
Best exterior is unadorned aluminum. None of it is any good
unless there is a sandwich filling of pure aluminum or copper
on the bottom and running up the sides. That is where the value
and price increase.

--
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In article om>,
Cheryl > wrote:

> On 8/10/2013 11:27 AM, Gary wrote:
> > sf wrote:
> >>
> >> My kids thought they
> >> were doing me a favor by giving me a gas grill after my trusty Weber
> >> died... but my grilling days ended there because I don't like guessing
> >> how much gas is left or changing a tank in the middle of cooking
> >> something.

> >
> > Charcoal grills are your friend. I think the food tastes better too.
> >
> > G.
> >

> I don't agree. If you use lighter fluid that's what the food tastes like.


That is why I start charcoal with naphtha;
but I recommend that nobody follow my lead.

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On 8/11/2013 9:01 AM, Pico Rico wrote:
>
> I worked in a kitchen that had similar pilot issues. People there thought I
> was a magician because they did not see me blowing, or sometimes I would
> wave my hand to get it to light. Simpletons.
>
>


The only difference between magicians and regular folks is that
magicians have magical stuff. You should have gone into work wearing a
gaudy costume jewelry piece and declare it to be your "amulet of fire." :-)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Press View Post
In article ,
bigwheel
wrote:

Quinch;1855230 Wrote:
I've recently switched to an electrical stove, and there's something
that bugs the living daylights out of me. Namely, heat transference.

The elements are metal, and so are the pans. Neither of these is
particularly pliable, which means that there's very little actual
surface contact between the two, so there's probably a hell of a lot of
heat loss.

So my question is, is there anything to help with that, like some sort
of soft, heat-conductive pad that goes between the two to help with heat
transference {for the computer-wise, basically thermal paste, except in
solid form}.

Or anything else that works, really.

Regards,

Quinch


Never heard of many folks worrying about that kinda stuff. If the
elements are touching the bottom of the pan..not too much heat is going
to be lost. Have you got any good cookware? That should help more than
anything. Making sure the pan construction contains one of our two best
available heat conducting metals i.e. copper or aluminum. I have a giant
high dollar All Clad brand SS stew/bean/chili pot which has a waffle
bottom made of Aluminum. Its a cooking marvel. lol Cast iron is
tolerable but not as good as the other two. Solid SS has terrible
conductive properties. Now the cats meow is hard anodized aluminum. That
is what the big boys and girls use. They tend to be proud of those when
you go to buy one. Kindly keeps us posted as event's unfold themselves.


The anodizing is no help for cooking, only for looking good.
Best exterior is unadorned aluminum. None of it is any good
unless there is a sandwich filling of pure aluminum or copper
on the bottom and running up the sides. That is where the value
and price increase.

--
Michael Press
On anodized aluminum pots the aluminum construction is what helps for heat distribution..not the anodizing. No need for a sandwich on the bottom if the whole thing is made from aluminum. The anodizing is most useful on the inside to prevent reactivity with acidic foods such as those containing tomatoes or vinegar etc. Those foods cooked in bare aluminum or cast iron vessels can wind up tasting real funky and metallic due to the reactivity issue.
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On 8/11/2013 10:46 AM, Gary wrote:

> Then even later I used a torch to get a few coals burning underneath a
> pile. About 30 seconds of torch heat started the bottom ones and they
> spread to the others on top.
>
> Illegal in Virginia now for about 5 years so it's all oven or stove
> top cooking for me.


What's illegal in VA now? You mean on your apartment balcony, or
something else?

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On 8/11/2013 1:55 PM, Gary wrote:

> My how time flys. I said maybe 5 years ago... The law went into effect
> 10 years ago.
> http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/fr/1008150/posts
>
> Seems my apartment complex would be exempt but they didn't take it
> that way. You agree in your lease here not to use them now. Funny
> though, many ppl here do still grill but they wait until after 5pm
> when the workers here leave for the day. Many times do I smell
> grilling nearby after 5pm.


I think it was either illegal or just banned when I used to live in an
apartment close to 15 years ago, but like your neighbors people didn't
pay attention to the ban.

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In article >,
bigwheel > wrote:

> Michael Press;1856160 Wrote:
> > In article ,
> > bigwheel
wrote:
> > -
> > Quinch;1855230 Wrote: -
> > I've recently switched to an electrical stove, and there's something
> > that bugs the living daylights out of me. Namely, heat transference.
> >
> > The elements are metal, and so are the pans. Neither of these is
> > particularly pliable, which means that there's very little actual
> > surface contact between the two, so there's probably a hell of a lot
> > of
> > heat loss.
> >
> > So my question is, is there anything to help with that, like some
> > sort
> > of soft, heat-conductive pad that goes between the two to help with
> > heat
> > transference {for the computer-wise, basically thermal paste, except
> > in
> > solid form}.
> >
> > Or anything else that works, really.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Quinch-
> >
> > Never heard of many folks worrying about that kinda stuff. If the
> > elements are touching the bottom of the pan..not too much heat is
> > going
> > to be lost. Have you got any good cookware? That should help more than
> > anything. Making sure the pan construction contains one of our two
> > best
> > available heat conducting metals i.e. copper or aluminum. I have a
> > giant
> > high dollar All Clad brand SS stew/bean/chili pot which has a waffle
> > bottom made of Aluminum. Its a cooking marvel. lol Cast iron is
> > tolerable but not as good as the other two. Solid SS has terrible
> > conductive properties. Now the cats meow is hard anodized aluminum.
> > That
> > is what the big boys and girls use. They tend to be proud of those
> > when
> > you go to buy one. Kindly keeps us posted as event's unfold
> > themselves.-
> >
> > The anodizing is no help for cooking, only for looking good.
> > Best exterior is unadorned aluminum. None of it is any good
> > unless there is a sandwich filling of pure aluminum or copper
> > on the bottom and running up the sides. That is where the value
> > and price increase.

>
> On anodized aluminum pots the aluminum construction is what helps for
> heat distribution..not the anodizing. No need for a sandwich on the
> bottom if the whole thing is made from aluminum.


But the structural material is not aluminum.
It is aluminum alloy and does not have the
heat conduction property of aluminum. That
is why an inner sandwich filling of pure
aluminum or copper makes for superior cookware
though not superior to professional copper.

--
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In article >,
sf > wrote:
>On Sat, 10 Aug 2013 10:31:37 -0400, jmcquown >
>wrote:
>
>> On 8/10/2013 9:07 AM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
>> > jmcquown wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Gas is not always an option.
>> >> The only propane tank I have is for the fireplace,
>> >
>> > So then your HOA does permit propane... therefore propane IS an
>> > option... somehow I was under the impression that you didn't have a
>> > gas stove because your association didn't permit propane.
>> >

>> Yes, they permit it for faux fireplaces. The gas lines don't run to the
>> kitchen. I'd have to dig up the slab foundation to have lines run to
>> the kitchen. I don't see the point. Electric works just fine.
>>

>I've had gas for a few years now and I still don't understand all the
>hooha by the people who claim it's so danged wonderful. Makes me
>think their mouths are bigger than their ability to cook, so the way
>to build up their fragile little egos is to talk smack about electric
>stoves.... which is exceedingly childish and boorish behavior.


I've prepared meals on electric stoves, gas stoves, campfires,
Coleman stoves, electric hot plates, etc.

I like gas; when we had an opportunity to do so, we replaced our
electric stove with gas.

Cindy Hamilton
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In article >,
sf > wrote:
>On Sat, 10 Aug 2013 16:03:09 +0100, "Ophelia"
> wrote:
>>
>>
>> "S Viemeister" > wrote in message
>> ...
>> > On 8/10/2013 10:43 AM, Gary wrote:
>> >
>> >> Most apartments in my neighborhood have the nifty new gas stoves with
>> >> electronics. I've been offered one since I've lived here so long but
>> >> I've resisted. My old one (with pilot lights) works fine and I can
>> >> cook during power outages unlike my neighbors. Here, I am hooked up
>> >> to the city supplied natural gas. That has never gone out.
>> >>
>> > When the power goes out, I use matches to light the burners (no pilot
>> > lights on mine).

>>
>> Nor on mine
>>

>I wouldn't know how to do that and no electricity would mean no
>internet, so I couldn't Google for instructions.


Oh, for Pete's sake. You crank on the gas and stick a lit match
toward the burner. (Just don't dawdle, or you'll lose your
eyebrows.) When the match gets close enough, the gas lights,
as if by some arcane magick.

Once in a while in wet weather, or when the battery's running
down on the ignitor, I have to do the same to my gas grill.

It's no big deal, really.

Cindy Hamilton
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On Mon, 12 Aug 2013 14:46:44 GMT, (Cindy Hamilton)
wrote:

> In article >,
> sf > wrote:
> >On Sat, 10 Aug 2013 10:31:37 -0400, jmcquown >
> >wrote:
> >
> >> On 8/10/2013 9:07 AM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
> >> > jmcquown wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> Gas is not always an option.
> >> >> The only propane tank I have is for the fireplace,
> >> >
> >> > So then your HOA does permit propane... therefore propane IS an
> >> > option... somehow I was under the impression that you didn't have a
> >> > gas stove because your association didn't permit propane.
> >> >
> >> Yes, they permit it for faux fireplaces. The gas lines don't run to the
> >> kitchen. I'd have to dig up the slab foundation to have lines run to
> >> the kitchen. I don't see the point. Electric works just fine.
> >>

> >I've had gas for a few years now and I still don't understand all the
> >hooha by the people who claim it's so danged wonderful. Makes me
> >think their mouths are bigger than their ability to cook, so the way
> >to build up their fragile little egos is to talk smack about electric
> >stoves.... which is exceedingly childish and boorish behavior.

>
> I've prepared meals on electric stoves, gas stoves, campfires,
> Coleman stoves, electric hot plates, etc.
>
> I like gas; when we had an opportunity to do so, we replaced our
> electric stove with gas.
>

You made an informed choice and you're not one of the crusaders who
denigrate everything else.

--
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"sf" > wrote in message
...
> On Mon, 12 Aug 2013 14:46:44 GMT, (Cindy Hamilton)
> wrote:
>
>> In article >,
>> sf > wrote:
>> >On Sat, 10 Aug 2013 10:31:37 -0400, jmcquown >
>> >wrote:
>> >
>> >> On 8/10/2013 9:07 AM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
>> >> > jmcquown wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Gas is not always an option.
>> >> >> The only propane tank I have is for the fireplace,
>> >> >
>> >> > So then your HOA does permit propane... therefore propane IS an
>> >> > option... somehow I was under the impression that you didn't have a
>> >> > gas stove because your association didn't permit propane.
>> >> >
>> >> Yes, they permit it for faux fireplaces. The gas lines don't run to
>> >> the
>> >> kitchen. I'd have to dig up the slab foundation to have lines run to
>> >> the kitchen. I don't see the point. Electric works just fine.
>> >>
>> >I've had gas for a few years now and I still don't understand all the
>> >hooha by the people who claim it's so danged wonderful. Makes me
>> >think their mouths are bigger than their ability to cook, so the way
>> >to build up their fragile little egos is to talk smack about electric
>> >stoves.... which is exceedingly childish and boorish behavior.

>>
>> I've prepared meals on electric stoves, gas stoves, campfires,
>> Coleman stoves, electric hot plates, etc.
>>
>> I like gas; when we had an opportunity to do so, we replaced our
>> electric stove with gas.
>>

> You made an informed choice and you're not one of the crusaders who
> denigrate everything else.


I have a gas hob and electric double oven. I love them. At our other place
it is all electric and I do miss this hob.

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Ophelia wrote:
>
> Are you not allowed to do a bbq at all?


If I ever want to, I can join my neighbors and grill after 5pm when
the apartment police go home for the night.

G.
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"Gary" > wrote in message ...
> Ophelia wrote:
>>
>> Are you not allowed to do a bbq at all?

>
> If I ever want to, I can join my neighbors and grill after 5pm when
> the apartment police go home for the night.


Don't get caught and be safe
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On 8/12/2013 11:54 AM, Ophelia wrote:

> I have a gas hob and electric double oven. I love them. At our other
> place it is all electric and I do miss this hob.
>

I like my gas + electric combo, too. And I'm enjoying playing with my
new toy - a portable induction hob


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"S Viemeister" > wrote in message
...
> On 8/12/2013 11:54 AM, Ophelia wrote:
>
>> I have a gas hob and electric double oven. I love them. At our other
>> place it is all electric and I do miss this hob.
>>

> I like my gas + electric combo, too. And I'm enjoying playing with my new
> toy - a portable induction hob


Oooh I've had my eye on those! Do report on it?

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On Sun, 11 Aug 2013 19:59:39 -0700, Michael Press >
wrote:

>In article >,
> bigwheel > wrote:
>
>> Michael Press;1856160 Wrote:
>> > In article ,
>> > bigwheel
wrote:
>> > -
>> > Quinch;1855230 Wrote: -
>> > I've recently switched to an electrical stove, and there's something
>> > that bugs the living daylights out of me. Namely, heat transference.
>> >
>> > The elements are metal, and so are the pans. Neither of these is
>> > particularly pliable, which means that there's very little actual
>> > surface contact between the two, so there's probably a hell of a lot
>> > of
>> > heat loss.
>> >
>> > So my question is, is there anything to help with that, like some
>> > sort
>> > of soft, heat-conductive pad that goes between the two to help with
>> > heat
>> > transference {for the computer-wise, basically thermal paste, except
>> > in
>> > solid form}.
>> >
>> > Or anything else that works, really.
>> >
>> > Regards,
>> >
>> > Quinch-
>> >
>> > Never heard of many folks worrying about that kinda stuff. If the
>> > elements are touching the bottom of the pan..not too much heat is
>> > going
>> > to be lost. Have you got any good cookware? That should help more than
>> > anything. Making sure the pan construction contains one of our two
>> > best
>> > available heat conducting metals i.e. copper or aluminum. I have a
>> > giant
>> > high dollar All Clad brand SS stew/bean/chili pot which has a waffle
>> > bottom made of Aluminum. Its a cooking marvel. lol Cast iron is
>> > tolerable but not as good as the other two. Solid SS has terrible
>> > conductive properties. Now the cats meow is hard anodized aluminum.
>> > That
>> > is what the big boys and girls use. They tend to be proud of those
>> > when
>> > you go to buy one. Kindly keeps us posted as event's unfold
>> > themselves.-
>> >
>> > The anodizing is no help for cooking, only for looking good.
>> > Best exterior is unadorned aluminum. None of it is any good
>> > unless there is a sandwich filling of pure aluminum or copper
>> > on the bottom and running up the sides. That is where the value
>> > and price increase.

>>
>> On anodized aluminum pots the aluminum construction is what helps for
>> heat distribution..not the anodizing. No need for a sandwich on the
>> bottom if the whole thing is made from aluminum.

>
>But the structural material is not aluminum.
>It is aluminum alloy and does not have the
>heat conduction property of aluminum.


Depending on the alloy very often it offers better heat conduction
than pure aluminum. Most all aluminum items one buys are an alloy:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium_alloy
Also many grades:
http://www.keytometals.com/page.aspx...umGrades&LN=EN
Even Reynolds Wrap is not pure aluminum:
http://www.productossample.com/en/20...aluminum-foil/


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On 8/12/2013 12:59 PM, Ophelia wrote:
> "S Viemeister" > wrote
>> On 8/12/2013 11:54 AM, Ophelia wrote:
>>
>>> I have a gas hob and electric double oven. I love them. At our other
>>> place it is all electric and I do miss this hob.
>>>

>> I like my gas + electric combo, too. And I'm enjoying playing with my
>> new toy - a portable induction hob

>
> Oooh I've had my eye on those! Do report on it?
>

It was bought because we're planning a kitchen refurb, and I don't want
to eat out/order in for as many weeks as it will take to regain use of
the kitchen. It came with a surprisingly nice non-stick frying pan, and
I already have a medium saucepan and a pressure cooker which are
induction compatible. Parchment paper works well to protect the surface,
so I should also be able to use my cast-iron pans, too.
Unlike others I've seen, it has a wide range of temperature settings.
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"S Viemeister" > wrote in message
...
> On 8/12/2013 12:59 PM, Ophelia wrote:
>> "S Viemeister" > wrote
>>> On 8/12/2013 11:54 AM, Ophelia wrote:
>>>
>>>> I have a gas hob and electric double oven. I love them. At our other
>>>> place it is all electric and I do miss this hob.
>>>>
>>> I like my gas + electric combo, too. And I'm enjoying playing with my
>>> new toy - a portable induction hob

>>
>> Oooh I've had my eye on those! Do report on it?
>>

> It was bought because we're planning a kitchen refurb, and I don't want to
> eat out/order in for as many weeks as it will take to regain use of the
> kitchen. It came with a surprisingly nice non-stick frying pan, and I
> already have a medium saucepan and a pressure cooker which are induction
> compatible. Parchment paper works well to protect the surface, so I should
> also be able to use my cast-iron pans, too.
> Unlike others I've seen, it has a wide range of temperature settings.


Yes I haven't seen one with a wide range ....post a wee link, please?

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In article >,
Brooklyn1 > wrote:

> On Sun, 11 Aug 2013 19:59:39 -0700, Michael Press >
> wrote:
>
> >In article >,
> > bigwheel > wrote:
> >
> >> Michael Press;1856160 Wrote:
> >> > In article ,
> >> > bigwheel
wrote:
> >> > -
> >> > Quinch;1855230 Wrote: -
> >> > I've recently switched to an electrical stove, and there's something
> >> > that bugs the living daylights out of me. Namely, heat transference.
> >> >
> >> > The elements are metal, and so are the pans. Neither of these is
> >> > particularly pliable, which means that there's very little actual
> >> > surface contact between the two, so there's probably a hell of a lot
> >> > of
> >> > heat loss.
> >> >
> >> > So my question is, is there anything to help with that, like some
> >> > sort
> >> > of soft, heat-conductive pad that goes between the two to help with
> >> > heat
> >> > transference {for the computer-wise, basically thermal paste, except
> >> > in
> >> > solid form}.
> >> >
> >> > Or anything else that works, really.
> >> >
> >> > Regards,
> >> >
> >> > Quinch-
> >> >
> >> > Never heard of many folks worrying about that kinda stuff. If the
> >> > elements are touching the bottom of the pan..not too much heat is
> >> > going
> >> > to be lost. Have you got any good cookware? That should help more than
> >> > anything. Making sure the pan construction contains one of our two
> >> > best
> >> > available heat conducting metals i.e. copper or aluminum. I have a
> >> > giant
> >> > high dollar All Clad brand SS stew/bean/chili pot which has a waffle
> >> > bottom made of Aluminum. Its a cooking marvel. lol Cast iron is
> >> > tolerable but not as good as the other two. Solid SS has terrible
> >> > conductive properties. Now the cats meow is hard anodized aluminum.
> >> > That
> >> > is what the big boys and girls use. They tend to be proud of those
> >> > when
> >> > you go to buy one. Kindly keeps us posted as event's unfold
> >> > themselves.-
> >> >
> >> > The anodizing is no help for cooking, only for looking good.
> >> > Best exterior is unadorned aluminum. None of it is any good
> >> > unless there is a sandwich filling of pure aluminum or copper
> >> > on the bottom and running up the sides. That is where the value
> >> > and price increase.
> >>
> >> On anodized aluminum pots the aluminum construction is what helps for
> >> heat distribution..not the anodizing. No need for a sandwich on the
> >> bottom if the whole thing is made from aluminum.

> >
> >But the structural material is not aluminum.
> >It is aluminum alloy and does not have the
> >heat conduction property of aluminum.

>
> Depending on the alloy very often it offers better heat conduction


None of the web sites you pointed at support that assertion.
One says

| Iron and nickel are used to increase strength
| without significant loss in electrical conductivity

That is not an endorsement of aluminum alloy conductivity.
Pure aluminum is near the top of conductors. I see no
way a structural aluminum alloy can have better conductivity
than pure aluminum. Alloys have more impediments to free
movement of electrons than the pure substance. Copper conductivity
decreases just from annealing.

That cookware manufacturers go to the trouble of
sandwiching pure aluminum into their pots and
pans tells the story.

> than pure aluminum. Most all aluminum items one buys are an alloy:
>
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium_alloy

Yes, I have been saying this all along. All not "most."

> Also many grades:
> http://www.keytometals.com/page.aspx...umGrades&LN=EN
> Even Reynolds Wrap is not pure aluminum:


Yes.

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In article >,
(Cindy Hamilton) wrote:

> In article >,
> sf > wrote:
> >On Sat, 10 Aug 2013 16:03:09 +0100, "Ophelia"
> > wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> "S Viemeister" > wrote in message
> >> ...
> >> > On 8/10/2013 10:43 AM, Gary wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> Most apartments in my neighborhood have the nifty new gas stoves with
> >> >> electronics. I've been offered one since I've lived here so long but
> >> >> I've resisted. My old one (with pilot lights) works fine and I can
> >> >> cook during power outages unlike my neighbors. Here, I am hooked up
> >> >> to the city supplied natural gas. That has never gone out.
> >> >>
> >> > When the power goes out, I use matches to light the burners (no pilot
> >> > lights on mine).
> >>
> >> Nor on mine
> >>

> >I wouldn't know how to do that and no electricity would mean no
> >internet, so I couldn't Google for instructions.

>
> Oh, for Pete's sake. You crank on the gas and stick a lit match
> toward the burner. (Just don't dawdle, or you'll lose your
> eyebrows.) When the match gets close enough, the gas lights,
> as if by some arcane magick.
>
> Once in a while in wet weather, or when the battery's running
> down on the ignitor, I have to do the same to my gas grill.
>
> It's no big deal, really.


What I use, when necessary.

<http://www.puff.com/forums/vb/cigar-accessory-reviews/184545-ronson-tech-torch-micro-torch.html>

Good for lighting candles and everything.
I heard people also use them to toast crème brûlée.

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On 8/12/2013 1:35 PM, Ophelia wrote:
> "S Viemeister" > wrote


>> It was bought because we're planning a kitchen refurb, and I don't
>> want to eat out/order in for as many weeks as it will take to regain
>> use of the kitchen. It came with a surprisingly nice non-stick frying
>> pan, and I already have a medium saucepan and a pressure cooker which
>> are induction compatible. Parchment paper works well to protect the
>> surface, so I should also be able to use my cast-iron pans, too.
>> Unlike others I've seen, it has a wide range of temperature settings.

>
> Yes I haven't seen one with a wide range ....post a wee link, please?
>

I've tried to find a UK source for it - the one I bought is for our US
kitchen. I like it enough to buy one for our Scottish kitchen, but have
had no luck finding it.
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"S Viemeister" > wrote in message
...
> On 8/12/2013 1:35 PM, Ophelia wrote:
>> "S Viemeister" > wrote

>
>>> It was bought because we're planning a kitchen refurb, and I don't
>>> want to eat out/order in for as many weeks as it will take to regain
>>> use of the kitchen. It came with a surprisingly nice non-stick frying
>>> pan, and I already have a medium saucepan and a pressure cooker which
>>> are induction compatible. Parchment paper works well to protect the
>>> surface, so I should also be able to use my cast-iron pans, too.
>>> Unlike others I've seen, it has a wide range of temperature settings.

>>
>> Yes I haven't seen one with a wide range ....post a wee link, please?
>>

> I've tried to find a UK source for it - the one I bought is for our US
> kitchen. I like it enough to buy one for our Scottish kitchen, but have
> had no luck finding it.


I don't mind ordering from US. That is where my herb ball and last probe
thermo came from Could you give me a US link, please?
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On 8/12/2013 4:22 PM, Ophelia wrote:
> "S Viemeister" > wrote
>> On 8/12/2013 1:35 PM, Ophelia wrote:
>>> "S Viemeister" > wrote
>>>> It was bought because we're planning a kitchen refurb, and I don't
>>>> want to eat out/order in for as many weeks as it will take to regain
>>>> use of the kitchen. It came with a surprisingly nice non-stick frying
>>>> pan, and I already have a medium saucepan and a pressure cooker which
>>>> are induction compatible. Parchment paper works well to protect the
>>>> surface, so I should also be able to use my cast-iron pans, too.
>>>> Unlike others I've seen, it has a wide range of temperature settings.
>>> Yes I haven't seen one with a wide range ....post a wee link, please?

>> I've tried to find a UK source for it - the one I bought is for our US
>> kitchen. I like it enough to buy one for our Scottish kitchen, but have
>> had no luck finding it.

>
> I don't mind ordering from US. That is where my herb ball and last
> probe thermo came from Could you give me a US link, please?


You'll need a decent transformer - the voltage is different.

<http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?SKU=41482537>

(I paid 20% less than that.)

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On 8/12/2013 10:22 AM, Ophelia wrote:
>
>
> "S Viemeister" > wrote in message
> ...
>> On 8/12/2013 1:35 PM, Ophelia wrote:
>>> "S Viemeister" > wrote

>>
>>>> It was bought because we're planning a kitchen refurb, and I don't
>>>> want to eat out/order in for as many weeks as it will take to regain
>>>> use of the kitchen. It came with a surprisingly nice non-stick frying
>>>> pan, and I already have a medium saucepan and a pressure cooker which
>>>> are induction compatible. Parchment paper works well to protect the
>>>> surface, so I should also be able to use my cast-iron pans, too.
>>>> Unlike others I've seen, it has a wide range of temperature settings.
>>>
>>> Yes I haven't seen one with a wide range ....post a wee link, please?
>>>

>> I've tried to find a UK source for it - the one I bought is for our US
>> kitchen. I like it enough to buy one for our Scottish kitchen, but have
>> had no luck finding it.

>
> I don't mind ordering from US. That is where my herb ball and last
> probe thermo came from Could you give me a US link, please?


You could try Amazon. There's no pan included though. I don't know if it
would work with your 220V electricity. The US uses 120V and the maximum
power you can get is 1800 watts. Does this mean that you can get 3600
watts with plugin hotplates in the UK? I don't know but that would be cool.

http://www.amazon.com/1800-Watt-Port...dp/B0045QEPYM/


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On 8/12/2013 7:53 PM, dsi1 wrote:

> You could try Amazon. There's no pan included though. I don't know if it
> would work with your 220V electricity. The US uses 120V and the maximum
> power you can get is 1800 watts. Does this mean that you can get 3600
> watts with plugin hotplates in the UK? I don't know but that would be cool.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/1800-Watt-Port...dp/B0045QEPYM/
>

That one has only 10 temperature settings, and a narrower range - it
doesn't go down as low, or up as high as the one I bought.
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On 8/12/2013 2:21 PM, S Viemeister wrote:
> On 8/12/2013 7:53 PM, dsi1 wrote:
>
>> You could try Amazon. There's no pan included though. I don't know if it
>> would work with your 220V electricity. The US uses 120V and the maximum
>> power you can get is 1800 watts. Does this mean that you can get 3600
>> watts with plugin hotplates in the UK? I don't know but that would be
>> cool.
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/1800-Watt-Port...dp/B0045QEPYM/
>>
>>

> That one has only 10 temperature settings, and a narrower range - it
> doesn't go down as low, or up as high as the one I bought.


You're the expert on this thing. The included pan is a bonus and I like
the round design better than the square one.
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On Saturday, August 10, 2013 6:58:49 AM UTC-7, Brooklyn1 wrote:
> On Sat, 10 Aug 2013 12:41:12 +0100, "Ophelia"


>
> Most older city homes are plumbed for gas lighting... electric
> lighting is relatively new... as electric lighting became popular
> (only about 100 years ago) the piping was cut, capped, and plastered
> over... the gas piping is still inside the walls. The house I grew up
> in was built in 1911, it originally had all gas lighting, so did all
> the the houses around... some left the gaslight fixtures because they
> are so decorative, some were electrified. We electrified those in our
> entryway and center hallways on both floors.


In many cases, the iron pipes that fed gas to the overhead light fixtures were
used as conduit for wires, when the gas fixtures were replaced with electric.

Many people have forgotten, or never knew, that the gas originally used in
those "older city homes" was manufactured from coal. The Chicago gas utility
retained its name: The People's Gas Light and Coke Company long after it became
anachronistic. And this was the gas that, if you stuck your head in an oven,
would kill you.

Not that that was the only risk from "town gas." A chemical plant I once
visited, outside of Chicago, had originally been a manufactured gas plant,
and its soil still held cyanide from that earlier era.
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"S Viemeister" > wrote in message
...
> On 8/12/2013 4:22 PM, Ophelia wrote:
>> "S Viemeister" > wrote
>>> On 8/12/2013 1:35 PM, Ophelia wrote:
>>>> "S Viemeister" > wrote
>>>>> It was bought because we're planning a kitchen refurb, and I don't
>>>>> want to eat out/order in for as many weeks as it will take to regain
>>>>> use of the kitchen. It came with a surprisingly nice non-stick frying
>>>>> pan, and I already have a medium saucepan and a pressure cooker which
>>>>> are induction compatible. Parchment paper works well to protect the
>>>>> surface, so I should also be able to use my cast-iron pans, too.
>>>>> Unlike others I've seen, it has a wide range of temperature settings.
>>>> Yes I haven't seen one with a wide range ....post a wee link, please?
>>> I've tried to find a UK source for it - the one I bought is for our US
>>> kitchen. I like it enough to buy one for our Scottish kitchen, but have
>>> had no luck finding it.

>>
>> I don't mind ordering from US. That is where my herb ball and last
>> probe thermo came from Could you give me a US link, please?

>
> You'll need a decent transformer - the voltage is different.
>
> <http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?SKU=41482537>
>
> (I paid 20% less than that.)


Thanks I will have wee lookie ))))
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"dsi1" > wrote in message
...
> On 8/12/2013 10:22 AM, Ophelia wrote:
>>
>>
>> "S Viemeister" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> On 8/12/2013 1:35 PM, Ophelia wrote:
>>>> "S Viemeister" > wrote
>>>
>>>>> It was bought because we're planning a kitchen refurb, and I don't
>>>>> want to eat out/order in for as many weeks as it will take to regain
>>>>> use of the kitchen. It came with a surprisingly nice non-stick frying
>>>>> pan, and I already have a medium saucepan and a pressure cooker which
>>>>> are induction compatible. Parchment paper works well to protect the
>>>>> surface, so I should also be able to use my cast-iron pans, too.
>>>>> Unlike others I've seen, it has a wide range of temperature settings.
>>>>
>>>> Yes I haven't seen one with a wide range ....post a wee link, please?
>>>>
>>> I've tried to find a UK source for it - the one I bought is for our US
>>> kitchen. I like it enough to buy one for our Scottish kitchen, but have
>>> had no luck finding it.

>>
>> I don't mind ordering from US. That is where my herb ball and last
>> probe thermo came from Could you give me a US link, please?

>
> You could try Amazon. There's no pan included though. I don't know if it
> would work with your 220V electricity. The US uses 120V and the maximum
> power you can get is 1800 watts. Does this mean that you can get 3600
> watts with plugin hotplates in the UK? I don't know but that would be
> cool.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/1800-Watt-Port...dp/B0045QEPYM/


Thanks Saved too!


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On 8/12/2013 8:49 PM, dsi1 wrote:
> On 8/12/2013 2:21 PM, S Viemeister wrote:
>> On 8/12/2013 7:53 PM, dsi1 wrote:
>>> You could try Amazon. There's no pan included though. I don't know if it
>>> would work with your 220V electricity. The US uses 120V and the maximum
>>> power you can get is 1800 watts. Does this mean that you can get 3600
>>> watts with plugin hotplates in the UK? I don't know but that would be
>>> cool.
>>> http://www.amazon.com/1800-Watt-Port...dp/B0045QEPYM/
>>>

>> That one has only 10 temperature settings, and a narrower range - it
>> doesn't go down as low, or up as high as the one I bought.

>
> You're the expert on this thing. The included pan is a bonus and I like
> the round design better than the square one.


I like the round design too. I didn't expect the 'bonus' pan to be much
good, but was very pleasantly surprised! I don't know how well the hob
and pan will last, but so far, I'm pleased with my purchase.

The highest wattage I've seen for a single induction hob in the UK, is
2000. I noticed a double at 2800w on Amazon.co.uk.

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On 8/12/2013 4:22 PM, Ophelia wrote:
> "S Viemeister" > wrote
>> On 8/12/2013 1:35 PM, Ophelia wrote:
>>> "S Viemeister" > wrote
>>>> Unlike others I've seen, it has a wide range of temperature settings.
>>>
>>> Yes I haven't seen one with a wide range ....post a wee link, please?
>>>

>> I've tried to find a UK source for it - the one I bought is for our US
>> kitchen. I like it enough to buy one for our Scottish kitchen, but have
>> had no luck finding it.

>
> I don't mind ordering from US. That is where my herb ball and last
> probe thermo came from Could you give me a US link, please?


I've just seen this one on Amazon.co.uk -

<http://www.amazon.co.uk/Buffalo-Induction-Hob-Power-3kW/dp/B004EEMJ70/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1376400438&sr=8-19&keywords=single+induction+hob>

No reviews yet, considerably larger and _much_ more expensive, it's a
professional unit.
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"S Viemeister" > wrote in message
...
> On 8/12/2013 8:49 PM, dsi1 wrote:
>> On 8/12/2013 2:21 PM, S Viemeister wrote:
>>> On 8/12/2013 7:53 PM, dsi1 wrote:
>>>> You could try Amazon. There's no pan included though. I don't know if
>>>> it
>>>> would work with your 220V electricity. The US uses 120V and the maximum
>>>> power you can get is 1800 watts. Does this mean that you can get 3600
>>>> watts with plugin hotplates in the UK? I don't know but that would be
>>>> cool.
>>>> http://www.amazon.com/1800-Watt-Port...dp/B0045QEPYM/
>>>>
>>> That one has only 10 temperature settings, and a narrower range - it
>>> doesn't go down as low, or up as high as the one I bought.

>>
>> You're the expert on this thing. The included pan is a bonus and I like
>> the round design better than the square one.

>
> I like the round design too. I didn't expect the 'bonus' pan to be much
> good, but was very pleasantly surprised! I don't know how well the hob and
> pan will last, but so far, I'm pleased with my purchase.
>
> The highest wattage I've seen for a single induction hob in the UK, is
> 2000. I noticed a double at 2800w on Amazon.co.uk.


This might be of interest. I just got the Coopers catalogue in and they
have an 'induction hob converter' which, apparently, allows you to use any
pan on your hob!

http://www.coopersofstortford.co.uk/...find=Induction hob converter

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"Ophelia" > wrote in message
...

> This might be of interest. I just got the Coopers catalogue in and they
> have an 'induction hob converter' which, apparently, allows you to use any
> pan on your hob!
>
> http://www.coopersofstortford.co.uk/...find=Induction hob
> converter


Probably ought to have shown this one:

http://www.coopersofstortford.co.uk/...-prodst09262i/

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On 8/13/2013 9:42 AM, Ophelia wrote:

> This might be of interest. I just got the Coopers catalogue in and they
> have an 'induction hob converter' which, apparently, allows you to use
> any pan on your hob!
>
> http://www.coopersofstortford.co.uk/...find=Induction hob converter
>

It _sounds_ like a good idea, but I've heard a few bad reports on those
- overheating of the glass/ceramic surface, and poor heat transfer to
the pan.
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