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Winemaking (rec.crafts.winemaking) Discussion of the process, recipes, tips, techniques and general exchange of lore on the process, methods and history of wine making. Includes traditional grape wines, sparkling wines & champagnes. |
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Thank you for the recommendations!
Jeff On Nov 9, 6:36 pm, shbailey > wrote: > There don't seem to be definite recommendations for spraying for > foliar phylloxera. If you aren't currently following a general spray > program, maybe it would help control the phylloxera (as well as leaf > hoppers and berry moth) if you did. General recommendations for > spraying with fairly benign stuff would involve using carbaryl, > malathion, or methoxyclor pre-bloom and then a few times post-bloom. > You can find days to harvest limitations on the labels. > > On Nov 8, 8:13 am, F > wrote: > > > Hmm... Maybe then this isn't an issue (as far as the grapes are > > concerned). > > > The galls were spiked and green on the underside of the leaves, but > > the vine itself seemed to be growing very well this year. So, if I > > *can* spray something, what would that be, and when would I spray? (I > > assume before the grapes start growing) > > > Thanks again for all the input!!! > > > Jeff > > > On Nov 7, 11:07 pm, shbailey > wrote: > > > > There are leaf forms and root forms of phylloxera. The root form is > > > the one that will kill the vine. Both forms usually don't affect the > > > same types of grapes, so maybe some foliar spray next spring can take > > > care of your problem. Phylloxera galls are rough, rounded, and > > > spiky. There is also a grape tumid gall, which is round, reddish, and > > > succulent. (Information from The Grape Grower, by Lon Rombough) > > > > On Nov 7, 4:57 pm, wrote: > > > > > Well, I'm pretty sure they're concord grapes -- because I like > > > > concord, and that's what they taste like. ![]() > > > > > As far as whether or not it's phylloxera, I took a leaf that had a > > > > bunch of galls on it (easy, as most of the leaves had them) to a > > > > gardening store, and after some discussion and research, we "verified" > > > > that's what it was. This vine is relatively young (i.e. only a few > > > > years old, I think). The reason I don't know much about the vine is > > > > that it was here and growing before I even knew what it was. I knew > > > > there were vines on the fence (towards the back of my property), but > > > > this is the first year that it produced *anything*. > > > > > I live in Southern Wisconsin. > > > > > Thanks for all of your feedback! I really appreciate it. > > > > > Jeff > > > > > On Nov 7, 12:04 pm, AxisOfBeagles > wrote: > > > > > > Agree with the prior poster - are you sure you have phylloxera? First, > > > > > phylloxera attack the vines, not the grapes. If you have phylloxera, > > > > > but still have grapes, the grapes should be fine. Your problem would be > > > > > the mortality of your vines. > > > > > > What are the symptoms that cause you to suspect you have phylloxera in > > > > > your vineyard? What part of the country are you in? > > > > > > Second - as the prior poster asked - are you sure you have Concord? As > > > > > best I know, Concord is of the labrusca species - which is phylloxera > > > > > resistant (phylloxera may be present, but to the best of my knowledge > > > > > do not present a mortality threat to your vines). > > > > > > On 2007-11-07 08:26:46 -0800, said: > > > > > > > Well, it looks like my grapes are infested with grape phylloxera. > > > > > > Since there's no known "cure" for this problem, I have to ask: are my > > > > > > grapes even edible? Or does the whole vine have to be cut down and > > > > > > burned? And if so, how long before I can re-plant (with resistant > > > > > > rootstock)? > > > > > > > Thanks so much for your help. > > > > > > Jeff |
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