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| Cooking Equipment (rec.food.equipment) Discussion of food-related equipment. Includes items used in food preparation and storage, including major and minor appliances, gadgets and utensils, infrastructure, and food- and recipe-related software. |
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how to sharpen the mini dike cutters and nipper cutters used in
electrical & electronic work? They're too small to handle with jigs, and the blades don't even open very widely. Yet, their utility is directly proportional to how recently they've been sharpened/honed. |
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"Alan Horowitz" wrote in message
om... how to sharpen the mini dike cutters and nipper cutters used in electrical & electronic work? They're too small to handle with jigs, and the blades don't even open very widely. Yet, their utility is directly proportional to how recently they've been sharpened/honed. Unlike scissors, the effectiveness of these cutters require a mashing action between two wedges that are perfectly parallel and precisely aligned with each other. If there are gaps, nicks, or misalignment they will not cut cleanly and you might as well throw them away. I've never known anyone to sharpen them. Removing material will only make the gaps bigger. I don't think they can be sharpened. Don |
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how to sharpen the mini dike cutters and nipper cutters used in
electrical & electronic work? They're too small to handle with jigs, and the blades don't even open very widely. Yet, their utility is directly proportional to how recently they've been sharpened/honed. Unlike scissors, the effectiveness of these cutters require a mashing action between two wedges that are perfectly parallel and precisely aligned with each other. If there are gaps, nicks, or misalignment they will not cut cleanly... Yep! ![]() and you might as well throw them away. Huh? :/ The handles might get a little closer together but just about any of them can be fixed up. I use small, thin #4 files (7/16" wide, 6" long and about 1/16" thick). Nobody I've known calls them needle files they are wider then needle files. I've found needle files are too narrow for this job. My favorite "improvement " is to grind the crap out of the "roundface" and make the cutting edges close to the new surface. Sometimes like for cutting pin material for knife work the round face and edges are very close, too close for other work. But still almost all dikes get that treatment at least somewhen they pass through my hands. See? I fix up more old junk than just broken pocket knives. ![]() I've never known anyone to sharpen them. Removing material will only make the gaps bigger. I don't think they can be sharpened. Don Don, if you said "I don't think I can sharpen dikes" then I could agree with you on that one. Otherwise, nope. :/Out of over two dozen sets of dikes I've owned over the years (give most of them away) only a couple were bought by me brand new. They can be had (good name brands!) for 50c to a $1 at the swipe and swap. Soak the rusty ones in phosphoric acid first.When sharpening them you just have to pay attention... Don's -first- (and excellent) observations above are as good as any. Just make sure of what effects you are making, in my case... magnification is the key to success. ![]() Alvin in AZ ps- even an ice pick works better if you sharpen it up sharper pps- screw drivers too... anything with an edge for that matter |
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"Don K" wrote in message
... "Alan Horowitz" wrote in message om... how to sharpen the mini dike cutters and nipper cutters used in electrical & electronic work? They're too small to handle with jigs, and the blades don't even open very widely. Yet, their utility is directly proportional to how recently they've been sharpened/honed. Unlike scissors, the effectiveness of these cutters require a mashing action between two wedges that are perfectly parallel and precisely aligned with each other. If there are gaps, nicks, or misalignment they will not cut cleanly and you might as well throw them away. I've never known anyone to sharpen them. Removing material will only make the gaps bigger. I don't think they can be sharpened. I suppose it's possible to sharpen the beveled portion, but do it so the tip gets sharpened more and the very back end not at all, thus making a flush closure, just with the handles squeezing a little more. That would be a real PITA though and depending on the tool you might not have much room to work with. I vote for toss it and get another. --- Update your PC at http://windowsupdate.microsoft.com Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.556 / Virus Database: 348 - Release Date: 12/26/2003 |
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How about using those small, flexible sanding disks that one uses with a
Dremel Mototool. I use them for sharpening bandsaw blades mounted on the bandsaw. Works great for them. You should be able to work them between the narrow confines of those nippers and dikes! Leif "Alan Horowitz" wrote in message om... how to sharpen the mini dike cutters and nipper cutters used in electrical & electronic work? They're too small to handle with jigs, and the blades don't even open very widely. Yet, their utility is directly proportional to how recently they've been sharpened/honed. |
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"Alan Horowitz" wrote in message om... how to sharpen the mini dike cutters and nipper cutters used in electrical & electronic work? They're too small to handle with jigs, and the blades don't even open very widely. Yet, their utility is directly proportional to how recently they've been sharpened/honed. Buy Craftsman or Klien and you wont have to worry about that... |
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"Carl." wrote in message ...
"Don K" wrote in message ... "Alan Horowitz" wrote in message om... how to sharpen the mini dike cutters and nipper cutters used in electrical & electronic work? They're too small to handle with jigs, and the blades don't even open very widely. Yet, their utility is directly proportional to how recently they've been sharpened/honed. Unlike scissors, the effectiveness of these cutters require a mashing action between two wedges that are perfectly parallel and precisely aligned with each other. If there are gaps, nicks, or misalignment they will not cut cleanly and you might as well throw them away. I've never known anyone to sharpen them. Removing material will only make the gaps bigger. I don't think they can be sharpened. I suppose it's possible to sharpen the beveled portion, but do it so the tip gets sharpened more and the very back end not at all, thus making a flush closure, just with the handles squeezing a little more. That would be a real PITA though and depending on the tool you might not have much room to work with. I vote for toss it and get another. --- Update your PC at http://windowsupdate.microsoft.com Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.556 / Virus Database: 348 - Release Date: 12/26/2003 Sharpening them is often an experiment in futility. Give it a try and then pitch them. Occasionally it works with a Dremel and a small wheel or carbide tool. And I have a diamond stick that helps a little. In some you have to remove material in the crotch, for lack of the proper term, so the tool will close tightly. If you are using the tool for your livelihood, buy a new quality piece. |
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In rec.knives MaxAluminum wrote:
Sharpening them is often an experiment in futility. Give it a try and then pitch them. Occasionally it works with a Dremel and a small wheel or carbide tool. Oh heck. :/ Using a dremel on the jaws would be a recipe for making them worse instead of better, in my opinion. I use a small flat #4 file and finish up with a metal finger nail file. (the kind with the grit soldered to it... either saphire or diamond) And I have a diamond stick that helps a little. In some you have to remove material in the crotch, for lack of the proper term, so the tool will close tightly. If you are using the tool for your livelihood, buy a new quality piece. I've only ran across one set so far that was so good it couldn't use touching up, they are little ones for electonic work and they say "NWS Solingen Germany" on them and the return springs are two little leaf springs. (instead of those with the crappy little coil spring) Most of the ones I get and fix up are Kleins but all of them (save that one set) could use some "hand work" for improvement. Alvin in AZ ps- retired/retarded (same thing) railroad signal-ape ![]() |
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Alan,
I once tried to sharpen an old pair of diagonal cutters. (I know, not the same tool, but perhaps the same principle is involved). I wasn't successful in my sharpening efforts, but I was able to speed up the need to purchase a new pair quite a bit. After my misguided sharpening effort, the old ones wouldn't work at all. Heck, there was close to an eighth inch gap between the jaws when they were fully closed. by the time I finished. Almost anything can be done, given enough time and effort, but some things just aren't worth it. I suspect this project of yours may well be one of the latter. Barry "Alan Horowitz" wrote in message om... how to sharpen the mini dike cutters and nipper cutters used in electrical & electronic work? They're too small to handle with jigs, and the blades don't even open very widely. Yet, their utility is directly proportional to how recently they've been sharpened/honed. |
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wrote in message ...
Don, if you said "I don't think I can sharpen dikes" then I could agree with you on that one. Otherwise, nope. :/OK, I was wrong to say it can't be done. Obviously, with effort and a little luck, you might be able to reface the edges to regain performance over some portion of the cutting edge. At work, we toss out defective tools so as not to damage the product. Don |
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On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 19:39:41 -0600, "Barry N. Turner"
wrote: I wasn't successful in my sharpening efforts, but I was able to speed up the need to purchase a new pair quite a bit. After my misguided sharpening effort, the old ones wouldn't work at all. Heck, there was close to an eighth inch gap between the jaws when they were fully closed. by the time I finished. Some tools of this type have a "stop" in the jaw, so that when the stop is closed the blades are almost, but not quite, touching. If you sharpen the blades on this type of tool you need to grind back the stop so that when you are done, the edges again *almost* touch. Hoof nippers (used by farriers) are this type of tool. The good ones cost ~$150 to buy, and ~$75 to have them rebuilt because of how tricky it is to sharpen and realign the cutting edges. See: http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&q=GE+nippers+rebuild jc |
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JC Dill wrote:
On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 22:18:37 +0000 (UTC), wrote: a metal finger nail file. (the kind with the grit soldered to it... either saphire or diamond) Where do you find diamond nail files? I haven't been able to find one in years. I grew up using diamond nail files (on my nails) and everything else ("newer" and "improved" not!) feels wrong. I had 3 or 4 of them at one point, and have lost all but 1 over the years. I would really like to buy at least 2 more, if I could find them! Rite-Aid sells something like the Diamond Deb files, but they wear out sooner. -- Cheers, Bev --------------------------------- aibohphobia - fear of palindromes |
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some links for diamond nail files.
http://www.cameobeauty.com/Merchant2...tore_Code=Came o&Product_Code=2111&Category_Code=newpedi http://www.skincarecatalog.com/tweez...e--3421-p.html http://www.tropicalshops.com/vcs/Diamond-Nail-File.htm http://www.dermadoctor.com/product.asp?productid=623 Where do you find diamond nail files? I haven't been able to find one in years. I grew up using diamond nail files (on my nails) and everything else ("newer" and "improved" not!) feels wrong. I had 3 or 4 of them at one point, and have lost all but 1 over the years. I would really like to buy at least 2 more, if I could find them! jc |
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On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 06:01:52 GMT, Reyd Dorakeen wrote:
http://www.skincarecatalog.com/tweez...e--3421-p.html WOW! That's it! The other ones aren't the right kind, but this one is. I haven't seen one like it in years. The last time I tried to Google to find one all I found were the other type. I'm ordering several tomorrow. Thanks for the link! jc |