I am looking for a pressure canner, but am confused about how to tell the size. If it says 16 qts or 21 qts, etc, how many quart jars do the different sizes hold? Can anyone help me with this? Looks like there are a lot of experienced canners out there.

"mnbaldonado" > wrote in message
...
>
> I am looking for a pressure canner, but am confused about how to tell
> the size. If it says 16 qts or 21 qts, etc, how many quart jars do the
> different sizes hold? Can anyone help me with this? Looks like there
> are a lot of experienced canners out there.
>
>
>
>
> --
> mnbaldonado

I am not sure that you can tell just from that description because it also
depends on the diameter and height of the pot. For example, I have a Mirro
brand pressure canner. model M-0512-11 (they don't make it anymore, but I
can still find replacement parts). It says it's 12 quarts or 11.4 liters.
However, I can fit 7 quart jars in it. Someone else can correct me if I'm
wrong, but I think that even if they're larger, say 16 or 21 quarts they
will still do only 7 quart jars, but the difference is that they're taller
and you can actually double stack pint jars in them. I keep thinking that
there might be ones tall enough to do a double stack of quarts, too, but
since I'm not in the market for a new canner, I haven't looked lately.

If you look at http://www.pressurecooker-outlet.com/, it lists a variety of
different canners. If you actually click on one of them, you'll get a full
description that says how many quarts or pints fit in each size. For
example, there's a huge All American 41-quart canner which says it holds 32
pint jars or 19 quart jars. Me, I personally wouldn't want to load
something that huge. But I suppose if you had a ton of stuff to pressure
can on one day and lots of help preparing the product and filling the jars,
it might be worth it.



--
-Marilyn

mnbaldonado wrote:
> I am looking for a pressure canner, but am confused about how to tell
> the size. If it says 16 qts or 21 qts, etc, how many quart jars do the
> different sizes hold? Can anyone help me with this? Looks like there
> are a lot of experienced canners out there.
>
>
>
>


12 quart and 16 quart pressure canners will hold 7 quart jars. 21 or 22
quart canners will hold 14 quart jars (2 layers with a rank between).

Mirro makes a smaller one that holds 7 pint jars; I think it's 8 quart,
and it's not tall enough to hold any quart jars. HTH

Bob

Wayne Boatwright wrote:
> On Mon 14 Sep 2009 05:54:39p, mnbaldonado told us...
>
>> I am looking for a pressure canner, but am confused about how to tell
>> the size. If it says 16 qts or 21 qts, etc, how many quart jars do the
>> different sizes hold? Can anyone help me with this? Looks like there
>> are a lot of experienced canners out there.
>
> IMO, you need to know the exact dimensions of the vessel (diameter and
> height), to determine how many quart jars it will hold. IIRC, the stated
> capacity is the volume of the vessel, not the number of jars it will hold.
>
> Also, many canners come with two racks, which allow you to stack two layers
> of pint jars.
>
> If you know the diameter, you can make a paper template and arrange quart
> jars on it to determine precisely how many jars will fit. I have never
> seen a canner that will accomodate to layers of quart jars.
>
> I inherited a very old canner (cannot remember the brand, but it was well
> known), that passed from my grandmother who used it in the 1940s and 1950s,
> then passed to my parents who used it into the early 1990s. The original
> booklet came with it and stated the capacity as 24 quarts. I believe it
> actually holds 16 quart jars. The rack is unique to me, in that it has
> "holders" that the jars fit in. It can also be double stacked with pint
> jars.
>
> Bottom line, though, is to get the dimensions and calculate the layout of
> the jars to determine the number.
>
My old Sears canner (Presto made) is rated at 18 quarts and will hold
seven each of either pints or quarts. It also has the rack that has "jar
holders." I think that's the way most of the old ones were made to keep
you from jamming jars up against one another so they would be jostled.
I've never had enough stuff to can that I had to double stack my pints
but the original manual says it can be done.

Great! I appreciate all of your replies, they have been very helpful. I am on my way now and know what I am looking for. I appreciate all of your responses. Thank you so much!

In article >,
mnbaldonado > wrote:

> mnbaldonado;1377417 Wrote:
> > I am looking for a pressure canner, but am confused about how to tell
> > the size. If it says 16 qts or 21 qts, etc, how many quart jars do the
> > different sizes hold? Can anyone help me with this? Looks like there
> > are a lot of experienced canners out there.
>
> Great! I appreciate all of your replies, they have been very helpful. I
> am on my way now and know what I am looking for. I appreciate all of
> your responses. Thank you so much!

I will add my 2 cents. I have a small pressure canner All American 10.5
quart which holds 4 quart standard jars or 7 pint jars. My canner is
about 13 inches wide 15 inches high. I am glad I got the smaller one. I
have a microwave above my stove if my canner was three inches taller it
would NOT fit on my stove. Also I turn the canner so the steam venting
for ten minutes is blasting in front and away from microwave oven. I can
only pints for just me and I.

My pressure canner takes up less stove space than the water bath canner.
So I have four burners going. (1)The cooking pot. (2)The pot that keeps
the jars hot. (3) smaller pot for simmering the lids. (4) The canner
(water bath or pressure).

While I am pressuring one batch I start a second batch. I cannot imagine
using bigger canners and cooking pots unless one has a super gigantic
stove. I am new at this canning game - Does this system sound just about
right for everyone For me smaller is better.

Enjoy Life... Dan L

--
Garden in Zone 5 South East Michigan.

Yes this sound quite normal. If you wish to free up a burner you can
use a small crock pot to keep your lids hot and not need that pan on the
stove. Also I often just fill a sink with hot water to heat up the jars
since they will be processed (at least 10 minutes) there is no need to
sterilize them and all I figure I need to do is make sure that they are
not cold so that there isn't any thermal shock. This will also free up
another burner.
Connie TC
>
> My pressure canner takes up less stove space than the water bath canner.
> So I have four burners going. (1)The cooking pot. (2)The pot that keeps
> the jars hot. (3) smaller pot for simmering the lids. (4) The canner
> (water bath or pressure).
>
> While I am pressuring one batch I start a second batch. I cannot imagine
> using bigger canners and cooking pots unless one has a super gigantic
> stove. I am new at this canning game - Does this system sound just about
> right for everyone For me smaller is better.
>
> Enjoy Life... Dan L
>

"Connie TenClay" > wrote in message
...
> Yes this sound quite normal. If you wish to free up a burner you can use
> a small crock pot to keep your lids hot and not need that pan on the
> stove. Also I often just fill a sink with hot water to heat up the jars
> since they will be processed (at least 10 minutes) there is no need to
> sterilize them and all I figure I need to do is make sure that they are
> not cold so that there isn't any thermal shock. This will also free up
> another burner.
> Connie TC
>>
>> My pressure canner takes up less stove space than the water bath canner.
>> So I have four burners going. (1)The cooking pot. (2)The pot that keeps
>> the jars hot. (3) smaller pot for simmering the lids. (4) The canner
>> (water bath or pressure). While I am pressuring one batch I start a
>> second batch. I cannot imagine using bigger canners and cooking pots
>> unless one has a super gigantic stove. I am new at this canning game -
>> Does this system sound just about right for everyone For me smaller is
>> better.
>>
>> Enjoy Life... Dan L
>>


When I'm doing pressure canning, I have my big skillet on a back burner and
I put the jars upside down in it along with about an inch of water (holds
seven quart jars). I get the water boiling and turn it down to simmer. The
jars get hot so that I don't have a problem with the thermal shock and I
don't have to have another huge pot full of water on the stove. I'll also
stick the lids in there for a little while before it's time to put the
product in the jars to go into the pressure canner.

Sometimes I'll use the same skillet method for heating the jars when I'm
doing BWB canning, but usually I'll just put the jars in the canner covered
with water and keep them on medium heat while I'm getting the stuff ready to
put in them.

--
-Marilyn

In article >,
"Marilyn" > wrote:

> "Connie TenClay" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Yes this sound quite normal. If you wish to free up a burner you can use
> > a small crock pot to keep your lids hot and not need that pan on the
> > stove. Also I often just fill a sink with hot water to heat up the jars
> > since they will be processed (at least 10 minutes) there is no need to
> > sterilize them and all I figure I need to do is make sure that they are
> > not cold so that there isn't any thermal shock. This will also free up
> > another burner.
> > Connie TC
> >>
> >> My pressure canner takes up less stove space than the water bath canner.
> >> So I have four burners going. (1)The cooking pot. (2)The pot that keeps
> >> the jars hot. (3) smaller pot for simmering the lids. (4) The canner
> >> (water bath or pressure). While I am pressuring one batch I start a
> >> second batch. I cannot imagine using bigger canners and cooking pots
> >> unless one has a super gigantic stove. I am new at this canning game -
> >> Does this system sound just about right for everyone For me smaller is
> >> better.
> >>
> >> Enjoy Life... Dan L
> >>
>
>
> When I'm doing pressure canning, I have my big skillet on a back burner and
> I put the jars upside down in it along with about an inch of water (holds
> seven quart jars). I get the water boiling and turn it down to simmer. The
> jars get hot so that I don't have a problem with the thermal shock and I
> don't have to have another huge pot full of water on the stove. I'll also
> stick the lids in there for a little while before it's time to put the
> product in the jars to go into the pressure canner.
>
> Sometimes I'll use the same skillet method for heating the jars when I'm
> doing BWB canning, but usually I'll just put the jars in the canner covered
> with water and keep them on medium heat while I'm getting the stuff ready to
> put in them.

Hmmm ... Interesting.

I do have a crockpot and a samll electric kettle. That could free up
extra space if I needed an extra burner. I have often wondered if I put
the jars and lids in the dishwasher, would that be hot enough for jars
and lids when wash cycle is done?

My sink is usually filled with the stems and dirt from cleaning the
fruit before I process them. And while the pressure cooking is going, I
am taking apart and washing the roma strainer.

For now four burners seem to do the job. I am still happy with the
smaller pressure canner. Even if I had the extra burner space, a larger
canner would not fit under the microwave. Hmmm ... heat the jars with
water in the microwave

An added note - the small canner seems to heats up fast and cools down
fast. Like 4-5 minutes when venting starts, 10 minutes to vent, 4-5
minutes to reach ten lbs of pressure, 15+ minutes cooking time, 4-5
minutes cool down to zero lbs, remove weight and wait 2 minutes, remove
lid, here pop pop pop... all lids seal before 10 minutes, move jars to
counter. After about 45 - 60 minutes done. Does this sound about right?

One question - Why use a skillet when a pot will work better?

Enjoy Life... Dan L

--
Garden in Zone 5 South East Michigan.

"Dan L." > wrote in message
...
> In article >,
> "Marilyn" > wrote:
>
>> "Connie TenClay" > wrote in message
>> ...
>> > Yes this sound quite normal. If you wish to free up a burner you can
>> > use
>> > a small crock pot to keep your lids hot and not need that pan on the
>> > stove. Also I often just fill a sink with hot water to heat up the
>> > jars
>> > since they will be processed (at least 10 minutes) there is no need to
>> > sterilize them and all I figure I need to do is make sure that they are
>> > not cold so that there isn't any thermal shock. This will also free up
>> > another burner.
>> > Connie TC
>> >>
>> >> My pressure canner takes up less stove space than the water bath
>> >> canner.
>> >> So I have four burners going. (1)The cooking pot. (2)The pot that
>> >> keeps
>> >> the jars hot. (3) smaller pot for simmering the lids. (4) The canner
>> >> (water bath or pressure). While I am pressuring one batch I start a
>> >> second batch. I cannot imagine using bigger canners and cooking pots
>> >> unless one has a super gigantic stove. I am new at this canning game -
>> >> Does this system sound just about right for everyone For me smaller
>> >> is
>> >> better.
>> >>
>> >> Enjoy Life... Dan L
>> >>
>>
>>
>> When I'm doing pressure canning, I have my big skillet on a back burner
>> and
>> I put the jars upside down in it along with about an inch of water (holds
>> seven quart jars). I get the water boiling and turn it down to simmer.
>> The
>> jars get hot so that I don't have a problem with the thermal shock and I
>> don't have to have another huge pot full of water on the stove. I'll
>> also
>> stick the lids in there for a little while before it's time to put the
>> product in the jars to go into the pressure canner.
>>
>> Sometimes I'll use the same skillet method for heating the jars when I'm
>> doing BWB canning, but usually I'll just put the jars in the canner
>> covered
>> with water and keep them on medium heat while I'm getting the stuff ready
>> to
>> put in them.
>
> Hmmm ... Interesting.
>
> I do have a crockpot and a samll electric kettle. That could free up
> extra space if I needed an extra burner. I have often wondered if I put
> the jars and lids in the dishwasher, would that be hot enough for jars
> and lids when wash cycle is done?

If you're just using them for the pressure canner, I think that's listed as
an acceptable method. The trick is making sure they're still hot when
you're ready to use them. I don't know about the lids, though.
>
> My sink is usually filled with the stems and dirt from cleaning the
> fruit before I process them. And while the pressure cooking is going, I
> am taking apart and washing the roma strainer.
>
> For now four burners seem to do the job. I am still happy with the
> smaller pressure canner. Even if I had the extra burner space, a larger
> canner would not fit under the microwave. Hmmm ... heat the jars with
> water in the microwave

We took our microwave that was over the stove out and replaced it with a
very nice, stainless-steel vent hood. Microwaves over the stove get really,
really greasy inside and are a pain to clean, in my opinion. I now have a
huge, stainless-steel microwave sitting on a cabinet designed for that.

I think I read somewhere that you shouldn't do that heat the jars for
canning in the microwave, though.

> An added note - the small canner seems to heats up fast and cools down
> fast. Like 4-5 minutes when venting starts, 10 minutes to vent, 4-5
> minutes to reach ten lbs of pressure, 15+ minutes cooking time, 4-5
> minutes cool down to zero lbs, remove weight and wait 2 minutes, remove
> lid, here pop pop pop... all lids seal before 10 minutes, move jars to
> counter. After about 45 - 60 minutes done. Does this sound about right?

Well, you said it's a really small canner. I honestly don't know. See, I
have a weighted-gauge canner, so I have no way to know that the pressure is
down to zero, other than the directions in the manual that tell me to wait
45 minutes to an hour before removing the weight and the lid. How do you
know that it only takes 4-5 minutes in yours to reach zero pressure if you
have a weighted-gauge one? Was that in the manual that came with it?

> One question - Why use a skillet when a pot will work better?

Years ago, I had an electric skillet that I could set on the counter next to
the stove and I would heat the jars that way. I actually liked not having
to have one more thing on the stove. It also takes less water to do it that
way. The end result is the same, though, that the jars get hot enough to
not suffer thermal shock when I add boiling water to them, such as when I'm
doing green beans. I'm not sure why you think the pot works better. If I
heat my jars for pressure canning in a pot filled with water, that means I
have to have my BWB canner filled with water because it's the only other pot
I have large enough to fill and cover the jars. It actually only fits well
on the front right burner, which is also where I put the pressure canner.
Yeah, I could heat the jars on that burner, but then I have to shuffle pots
when I put the jars in the canner itself. On the other hand, my skillet
will fit on the back left burner. With the BWB canning, it's a no brainer
to heat the jars in the canner itself because I have to heat that water up
for canning anyway.

If I could have my dream kitchen it would be to have a stove with more than
four burners or two stoves side by side. Canning would be a lot easier.



--
-Marilyn

I have an old (50 years?) Mirro of the size you mention. It was sold
as a pressure cooker/canner. It has thick aluminum walls and my
family always used it for pressure canning. Now, though, I'm not sure
if I should use it because all the USDA recipes call for the larger
canners and say that the heat-up and cool-down (both of which are
untimed) constitute part of the canning process. The USDA does not
recommend use of the 8-quart pressure canner.

Is anyone out there using one of these smaller canners?

Dave

On Sep 15, 12:42*am, zxcvbob > wrote:
>
> Mirro makes a smaller one that holds 7 pint jars; I think it's 8 quart,
> and it's not tall enough to hold any quart jars. *HTH
>
> Bob

smyrnaquince wrote:
> I have an old (50 years?) Mirro of the size you mention. It was sold
> as a pressure cooker/canner. It has thick aluminum walls and my
> family always used it for pressure canning. Now, though, I'm not sure
> if I should use it because all the USDA recipes call for the larger
> canners and say that the heat-up and cool-down (both of which are
> untimed) constitute part of the canning process. The USDA does not
> recommend use of the 8-quart pressure canner.
>
> Is anyone out there using one of these smaller canners?
>
> Dave
>
> On Sep 15, 12:42 am, zxcvbob > wrote:
>> Mirro makes a smaller one that holds 7 pint jars; I think it's 8 quart,
>> and it's not tall enough to hold any quart jars. HTH
>>
>> Bob
>


I use mine occasionally. The only things I pressure-can in pint jars is
salsa (hot-packed, and it's acid enough that it might could be processed
in BWB) and meat (which is processed for such a long time the heat-up
and cool-down times are insignificant)

If you have one and are worried about it, just give it an extra few
minutes processing time, then throw a dry towel over the cooker to slow
down the cool-down.

Bob

In article >,
"Marilyn" > wrote:

> Well, you said it's a really small canner. I honestly don't know. See, I
> have a weighted-gauge canner, so I have no way to know that the pressure is
> down to zero, other than the directions in the manual that tell me to wait
> 45 minutes to an hour before removing the weight and the lid. How do you
> know that it only takes 4-5 minutes in yours to reach zero pressure if you
> have a weighted-gauge one? Was that in the manual that came with it?

My pressure canner has a weighted gauge and a pressure/temperature gauge.
It is not a dialed gauge canner.

> > One question - Why use a skillet when a pot will work better?
>
> Years ago, I had an electric skillet that I could set on the counter next to
> the stove and I would heat the jars that way. I actually liked not having
> to have one more thing on the stove. It also takes less water to do it that
> way. The end result is the same, though, that the jars get hot enough to
> not suffer thermal shock when I add boiling water to them, such as when I'm
> doing green beans. I'm not sure why you think the pot works better.

Past post stated:
> When I'm doing pressure canning, I have my big skillet on a back burner and
> I put the jars upside down in it along with about an inch of water (holds
> seven quart jars).

"Big skillet on back burner that had me wondering". Also I thought jars
that would be submerged in water would fit in a pot. I would fear that
glass jars that come in contact with direct heat would shatter. I had a
corning glass vision skillet that shattered because it had gotten too
hot. The company no longer sells the glass cookware anymore for that
reason. I also cook with propane which I believe has a hotter flame than
natural gas.

> If I could have my dream kitchen it would be to have a stove with more than
> four burners or two stoves side by side. Canning would be a lot easier.

We all dream of something better. Had I thought I would be canning ten
years ago - I would have put in a bigger stove with venting also. I will
live with what I have until large sums of money comes my way ... then I
would not need to can ... catch 22 somewhere

Enjoy Life ... Dan L

--
Garden in Zone 5 South East Michigan.

Dan L. wrote:
> In article >,
> "Marilyn" > wrote:
>
>> Well, you said it's a really small canner. I honestly don't know. See, I
>> have a weighted-gauge canner, so I have no way to know that the pressure is
>> down to zero, other than the directions in the manual that tell me to wait
>> 45 minutes to an hour before removing the weight and the lid. How do you
>> know that it only takes 4-5 minutes in yours to reach zero pressure if you
>> have a weighted-gauge one? Was that in the manual that came with it?
>
> My pressure canner has a weighted gauge and a pressure/temperature gauge.
> It is not a dialed gauge canner.

I'm a bit confused here, if you have a pressure/temperature gauge that
is not dialed, how does it work? My background is many years in the
hydrocarbon processing industry and every pressure/temperature gauge I
ever saw was dialed and had one needle for pressure and another for
temperature. Curious mind and all that.

Thanks,

>
>>> One question - Why use a skillet when a pot will work better?
>> Years ago, I had an electric skillet that I could set on the counter next to
>> the stove and I would heat the jars that way. I actually liked not having
>> to have one more thing on the stove. It also takes less water to do it that
>> way. The end result is the same, though, that the jars get hot enough to
>> not suffer thermal shock when I add boiling water to them, such as when I'm
>> doing green beans. I'm not sure why you think the pot works better.
>
> Past post stated:
>> When I'm doing pressure canning, I have my big skillet on a back burner and
>> I put the jars upside down in it along with about an inch of water (holds
>> seven quart jars).
>
> "Big skillet on back burner that had me wondering". Also I thought jars
> that would be submerged in water would fit in a pot. I would fear that
> glass jars that come in contact with direct heat would shatter. I had a
> corning glass vision skillet that shattered because it had gotten too
> hot. The company no longer sells the glass cookware anymore for that
> reason. I also cook with propane which I believe has a hotter flame than
> natural gas.
>
>> If I could have my dream kitchen it would be to have a stove with more than
>> four burners or two stoves side by side. Canning would be a lot easier.
>
> We all dream of something better. Had I thought I would be canning ten
> years ago - I would have put in a bigger stove with venting also. I will
> live with what I have until large sums of money comes my way ... then I
> would not need to can ... catch 22 somewhere
>
> Enjoy Life ... Dan L
>

In article
>,
smyrnaquince > wrote:

> I have an old (50 years?) Mirro of the size you mention. It was sold
> as a pressure cooker/canner. It has thick aluminum walls and my
> family always used it for pressure canning. Now, though, I'm not sure
> if I should use it because all the USDA recipes call for the larger
> canners and say that the heat-up and cool-down (both of which are
> untimed) constitute part of the canning process. The USDA does not
> recommend use of the 8-quart pressure canner.
>
> Is anyone out there using one of these smaller canners?
>
> Dave
>
> On Sep 15, 12:42*am, zxcvbob > wrote:
> >
> > Mirro makes a smaller one that holds 7 pint jars; I think it's 8 quart,
> > and it's not tall enough to hold any quart jars. *HTH
> >
> > Bob

I do not know about the USDA requirements. In the Ball Canning bible the
cooking times are at a given pressure for an alloted time to kill off
the bacteria. Are you sure the heat up and cool down times are a factor
in the killing of the food born bacteria?

Cooking longer times might change the taste or texture of the food. I
thought the main goal of pressure cooking was to kill off the bad stuff.
It would seem that once the temperature and pressure got up for the
alloted time would be enough to do its job, regardless of the canners
size.

So the USDA is saying smaller pressure canners are bad?
Do you have the article? It would be an interesting read.

My canner is a 10.5 quart that holds 4 quart standard jars. So mine
should be good to go. I really cannot imagine a canner smaller than mine.

Enjoy Life ... Dan L

--
Garden in Zone 5 South East Michigan.

"Dan L." > wrote in message
...
> In article >,
> "Marilyn" > wrote:
>
>> Well, you said it's a really small canner. I honestly don't know. See,
>> I
>> have a weighted-gauge canner, so I have no way to know that the pressure
>> is
>> down to zero, other than the directions in the manual that tell me to
>> wait
>> 45 minutes to an hour before removing the weight and the lid. How do you
>> know that it only takes 4-5 minutes in yours to reach zero pressure if
>> you
>> have a weighted-gauge one? Was that in the manual that came with it?
>
> My pressure canner has a weighted gauge and a pressure/temperature gauge.
> It is not a dialed gauge canner.
>
>> > One question - Why use a skillet when a pot will work better?
>>
>> Years ago, I had an electric skillet that I could set on the counter next
>> to
>> the stove and I would heat the jars that way. I actually liked not
>> having
>> to have one more thing on the stove. It also takes less water to do it
>> that
>> way. The end result is the same, though, that the jars get hot enough to
>> not suffer thermal shock when I add boiling water to them, such as when
>> I'm
>> doing green beans. I'm not sure why you think the pot works better.
>
> Past post stated:
>> When I'm doing pressure canning, I have my big skillet on a back burner
>> and
>> I put the jars upside down in it along with about an inch of water (holds
>> seven quart jars).
>
> "Big skillet on back burner that had me wondering". Also I thought jars
> that would be submerged in water would fit in a pot. I would fear that
> glass jars that come in contact with direct heat would shatter. I had a
> corning glass vision skillet that shattered because it had gotten too
> hot. The company no longer sells the glass cookware anymore for that
> reason. I also cook with propane which I believe has a hotter flame than
> natural gas.

Oh, my skillet is stainless steel. It has about an inch and a half of water
in it. When the jars are put in it I turn the heat on to medium and let it
start to boil, then I turn it down to a simmer. I've never had a jar break
when I'm heating them this way and I've done it for probably close to 30
years and I learned the technique from my mom-in-law. I've discarded a lot
of the other canning techniques she used as newer and better methods have
arisen, but this one doesn't have anything to do with the actual method of
preservation, so I've kept it. By the way, I do have an electric range,
currently, though once again, if I could have my dream kitchen, it would be
a natural gas one.

Right, those jars will fit in a pot, but as I said, the only pot with a
diameter large enough to submerge them in water is my BWB canner. On my
stove, I have two large and two small burners. Today I was canning green
beans yet again, another 7 quarts. On the large back burner I heated the
jars in the skillet. At the same time, I had my large saucepot full of
water set to boil since you need boiling water to cover the green beans.
The larger pots just don't work as well on the back of the stove because
they actually touch the knobs. If they get hot enough while touching those
plastic knobs, the knob starts to melt. Not a good idea. It's also hard to
get to the knob to turn it off without burning your hand.

I hate my stove, but it came with the house and was new when we moved in ten
years ago. I won't be getting a new one until this one dies a slow and
painful death.

>> If I could have my dream kitchen it would be to have a stove with more
>> than
>> four burners or two stoves side by side. Canning would be a lot easier.
>
> We all dream of something better. Had I thought I would be canning ten
> years ago - I would have put in a bigger stove with venting also. I will
> live with what I have until large sums of money comes my way ... then I
> would not need to can ... catch 22 somewhere

I think that I will continue to can no matter what my economic situation is.
I like to do it and I derive great satisfaction about seeing the fruits of
my labors.



--
-Marilyn

On Tue, 15 Sep 2009 22:37:57 -0700, "Marilyn"
> wrote:

>
>If I could have my dream kitchen it would be to have a stove with more than
>four burners or two stoves side by side. Canning would be a lot easier.

Marilyn,

We have a commercial Garland range in our kitchen. 6 top burners, two
large ovens, large grill and salamander. When we're canning we still
wish for more. (That's in a good garden year, not in a crappy year
like this one). So, when you're dreamin', might as well make your
dream stove have more than 6 burners ;-).

Ross.

In article >,
"Marilyn" > wrote:
> When I'm doing pressure canning, I have my big skillet on a back burner and
> I put the jars upside down in it along with about an inch of water (holds
> seven quart jars).

:-) That's how I was taught, too, Marilyn.
--
-Barb, Mother Superior, HOSSSPoJ
http://web.me.com/barbschaller - Yes, I Can! blog - check
it out. And check this, too: <http://www.kare11.com/news/
newsatfour/newsatfour_article.aspx?storyid=823232&catid=323>

> wrote in message
...
> On Tue, 15 Sep 2009 22:37:57 -0700, "Marilyn"
> > wrote:
>
>>
>>If I could have my dream kitchen it would be to have a stove with more
>>than
>>four burners or two stoves side by side. Canning would be a lot easier.
>
> Marilyn,
>
> We have a commercial Garland range in our kitchen. 6 top burners, two
> large ovens, large grill and salamander. When we're canning we still
> wish for more. (That's in a good garden year, not in a crappy year
> like this one). So, when you're dreamin', might as well make your
> dream stove have more than 6 burners ;-).
>
> Ross.

That's what I said, the equivalent of two stoves, which would give me 8
burners. I don't need a grille or another oven, just more burners for
canning.



--
-Marilyn

"Melba's Jammin'" > wrote in message
...
> In article >,
> "Marilyn" > wrote:
>> When I'm doing pressure canning, I have my big skillet on a back burner
>> and
>> I put the jars upside down in it along with about an inch of water (holds
>> seven quart jars).
>
> :-) That's how I was taught, too, Marilyn.
> --
> -Barb, Mother Superior, HOSSSPoJ


And yet, I've never seen anyone else do it that way. It must have been
common at some time, though.

--
-Marilyn

In article >,
"Marilyn" > wrote:

> "Melba's Jammin'" > wrote in message
> ...
> > In article >,
> > "Marilyn" > wrote:
> >> When I'm doing pressure canning, I have my big skillet on a back burner
> >> and
> >> I put the jars upside down in it along with about an inch of water (holds
> >> seven quart jars).
> >
> > :-) That's how I was taught, too, Marilyn.
> > --
> > -Barb, Mother Superior, HOSSSPoJ
>
>
> And yet, I've never seen anyone else do it that way. It must have been
> common at some time, though.

:-) My instruction was at my U of MN Extension Service county office
in about 1997.
--
-Barb, Mother Superior, HOSSSPoJ
http://web.me.com/barbschaller - Yes, I Can! blog - check
it out. And check this, too: <http://www.kare11.com/news/
newsatfour/newsatfour_article.aspx?storyid=823232&catid=323>

On Sep 16, 5:31*pm, "Dan L." > wrote:
> In article
> >,
>
>
>
>
>
> *smyrnaquince > wrote:
> > I have an old (50 years?) Mirro of the size you mention. *It was sold
> > as a pressure cooker/canner. *It has thick aluminum walls and my
> > family always used it for pressure canning. *Now, though, I'm not sure
> > if I should use it because all the USDA recipes call for the larger
> > canners and say that the heat-up and cool-down (both of which are
> > untimed) constitute part of the canning process. *The USDA does not
> > recommend use of the 8-quart pressure canner.
>
> > Is anyone out there using one of these smaller canners?
>
> > Dave
>
> > On Sep 15, 12:42*am, zxcvbob > wrote:
>
> > > Mirro makes a smaller one that holds 7 pint jars; I think it's 8 quart,
> > > and it's not tall enough to hold any quart jars. *HTH
>
> > > Bob
>
> I do not know about the USDA requirements. In the Ball Canning bible the
> cooking times are at a given pressure for an alloted time to kill off
> the bacteria. Are you sure the heat up and cool down times are a factor
> in the killing of the food born bacteria?
>
> Cooking longer times might change the taste or texture of the food. I
> thought the main goal of pressure cooking was to kill off the bad stuff.
> It would seem that once the temperature and pressure got up for the
> alloted time would be enough to do its job, regardless of the canners
> size.
>
> So the USDA is saying smaller pressure canners are bad?
> Do you have the article? It would be an interesting read.
>
> My canner is a 10.5 quart that holds 4 quart standard jars. So mine
> should be good to go. I really cannot imagine a canner smaller than mine.
>
> Enjoy Life ... Dan L
>
> --
> Garden in Zone 5 South East Michigan.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Well! I've searched all my saved emails and files. I could have
sworn I had either read in a USDA publication or had correspondence
with someone at the USDA that the heat-up and cool-down times were
part of the overall processing even though the processing times are
only given for the time at pressure. I can't find anything about that
now.

As Bob said, Mirro has/had an 8-quart (capacity) pressure canner that
would hold pint jars, but was not tall enough for quart jars.

I found the USDA Complete Guide to Home Canning, 2006 revision at
http://www.uga.edu/nchfp/publication...ions_usda.html
(where I also discovered that a 2009 version is coming out).

From Guide 1, pages 13-14:
Equipment for heat-processing home-canned food is of two main
types&boiling water canners
and pressure canners. Most are designed to hold seven quart jars or
eight to nine pints. Small
pressure canners hold four quart jars; some large pressure canners
hold 18 pint jars in two
layers, but hold only seven quart jars. Pressure saucepans with
smaller volume capacities are
not recommended for use in canning. Small capacity pressure canners
are treated in a similar
manner as standard larger canners, and should be vented using the
typical venting
procedures.

Their description of a "small pressure canner" does not seem include
ones that can't hold quart jars.

On the other hand, upon re-reading, I notice on pages 17-18 that they
actually give the expect times for pressure build-up (3-5 minutes) and
depressurization (30 miutes with pints), so I could compare my
canner's perfornance with those times.

Oh, well. I guess I am getting old and my memory is failing me!

Dave

"Melba's Jammin'" > wrote in message
...
> In article >,
> "Marilyn" > wrote:
>
>> "Melba's Jammin'" > wrote in message
>> ...
>> > In article >,
>> > "Marilyn" > wrote:
>> >> When I'm doing pressure canning, I have my big skillet on a back
>> >> burner
>> >> and
>> >> I put the jars upside down in it along with about an inch of water
>> >> (holds
>> >> seven quart jars).
>> >
>> > :-) That's how I was taught, too, Marilyn.
>> > --
>> > -Barb, Mother Superior, HOSSSPoJ
>>
>>
>> And yet, I've never seen anyone else do it that way. It must have been
>> common at some time, though.
>
> :-) My instruction was at my U of MN Extension Service county office
> in about 1997.
> --
> -Barb, Mother Superior, HOSSSPoJ


Really? Well, that's official, isn't it? But I haven't seen it written
down anywhere.

I miss having the electric skillet I used for heating them, but one day, the
inner lining of it separated from the outer and that was that. I never
bothered replacing it.

--
-Marilyn

In article >,
"Marilyn" > wrote:
> Really? Well, that's official, isn't it?

I suppose, in a way, but I've seen different reps of the organization
approach the same tasks differently. More than one way to skin a cat
and all that stuff. :-)

> But I haven't seen it written
> down anywhere.

Ah, I see what you mean. Me, neither,
--
-Barb, Mother Superior, HOSSSPoJ
http://web.me.com/barbschaller - Yes, I Can! blog - check
it out. And check this, too: <http://www.kare11.com/news/
newsatfour/newsatfour_article.aspx?storyid=823232&catid=323>

In article >,
George Shirley > wrote:

> Dan L. wrote:
> > In article >,
> > "Marilyn" > wrote:
> >
> >> Well, you said it's a really small canner. I honestly don't know. See, I
> >> have a weighted-gauge canner, so I have no way to know that the pressure
> >> is
> >> down to zero, other than the directions in the manual that tell me to wait
> >> 45 minutes to an hour before removing the weight and the lid. How do you
> >> know that it only takes 4-5 minutes in yours to reach zero pressure if you
> >> have a weighted-gauge one? Was that in the manual that came with it?
> >
> > My pressure canner has a weighted gauge and a pressure/temperature gauge.
> > It is not a dialed gauge canner.
>
> I'm a bit confused here, if you have a pressure/temperature gauge that
> is not dialed, how does it work? My background is many years in the
> hydrocarbon processing industry and every pressure/temperature gauge I
> ever saw was dialed and had one needle for pressure and another for
> temperature. Curious mind and all that.
>
> Thanks,

I have a model 910 "All-American 10-1/2-Quart Pressure Cooker/Canner".
http://www.amazon.com/All-American-2...Canner/dp/B000
2803O8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1253224057&sr=1-6
or
http://www.canningpantry.com/pressure-canner-910.html

The canner has a weighted pressure device 5-10-15 weight and has a
single needle gauge that shows the temperature/pressure.
Example 240 degrees = 10 lbs. When this gauge shows zero I know it is
safe to remove the lid, about five minutes after I turn off the burner.
Not a dialed guage. This canner has no gaskets - it has a metal to metal
seal. A cool tool - not cheap about $200 including shipping.

Wow - are you saying you have to wait 45 minutes to remove your lid?
I can make second batch of tomato juice in the same amount of your cool
down time. Wow - If that is true - i LOVE my canner (kissing it now).

Just made 10 1/2 pints of salsa using a water bath one hour ago.

Enjoy Life ... Dan L

--
Garden in Zone 5 South East Michigan.

In article >,
"Marilyn" > wrote:

> I think that I will continue to can no matter what my economic situation is.
> I like to do it and I derive great satisfaction about seeing the fruits of
> my labors.

I agree with that statement. My reasons for canning is two fold. (1) I
have a special diet and most process foods have gluten it. I can make my
own convenient processed foods without gluten. (2) Preparing for an
economic collapse.

Enjoy Life... Dan L

--
Garden in Zone 5 South East Michigan.

In article
>,
smyrnaquince > wrote:

> On Sep 16, 5:31*pm, "Dan L." > wrote:
> > In article
> > >,
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > *smyrnaquince > wrote:
> > > I have an old (50 years?) Mirro of the size you mention. *It was sold
> > > as a pressure cooker/canner. *It has thick aluminum walls and my
> > > family always used it for pressure canning. *Now, though, I'm not sure
> > > if I should use it because all the USDA recipes call for the larger
> > > canners and say that the heat-up and cool-down (both of which are
> > > untimed) constitute part of the canning process. *The USDA does not
> > > recommend use of the 8-quart pressure canner.
> >
> > > Is anyone out there using one of these smaller canners?
> >
> > > Dave
> >
> > > On Sep 15, 12:42*am, zxcvbob > wrote:
> >
> > > > Mirro makes a smaller one that holds 7 pint jars; I think it's 8 quart,
> > > > and it's not tall enough to hold any quart jars. *HTH
> >
> > > > Bob
> >
> > I do not know about the USDA requirements. In the Ball Canning bible the
> > cooking times are at a given pressure for an alloted time to kill off
> > the bacteria. Are you sure the heat up and cool down times are a factor
> > in the killing of the food born bacteria?
> >
> > Cooking longer times might change the taste or texture of the food. I
> > thought the main goal of pressure cooking was to kill off the bad stuff.
> > It would seem that once the temperature and pressure got up for the
> > alloted time would be enough to do its job, regardless of the canners
> > size.
> >
> > So the USDA is saying smaller pressure canners are bad?
> > Do you have the article? It would be an interesting read.
> >
> > My canner is a 10.5 quart that holds 4 quart standard jars. So mine
> > should be good to go. I really cannot imagine a canner smaller than mine.
> >
> > Enjoy Life ... Dan L
> >
> > --
> > Garden in Zone 5 South East Michigan.- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Well! I've searched all my saved emails and files. I could have
> sworn I had either read in a USDA publication or had correspondence
> with someone at the USDA that the heat-up and cool-down times were
> part of the overall processing even though the processing times are
> only given for the time at pressure. I can't find anything about that
> now.
>
> As Bob said, Mirro has/had an 8-quart (capacity) pressure canner that
> would hold pint jars, but was not tall enough for quart jars.
>
> I found the USDA Complete Guide to Home Canning, 2006 revision at
> http://www.uga.edu/nchfp/publication...ions_usda.html
> (where I also discovered that a 2009 version is coming out).
>
> From Guide 1, pages 13-14:
> Equipment for heat-processing home-canned food is of two main
> types&boiling water canners
> and pressure canners. Most are designed to hold seven quart jars or
> eight to nine pints. Small
> pressure canners hold four quart jars; some large pressure canners
> hold 18 pint jars in two
> layers, but hold only seven quart jars. Pressure saucepans with
> smaller volume capacities are
> not recommended for use in canning. Small capacity pressure canners
> are treated in a similar
> manner as standard larger canners, and should be vented using the
> typical venting
> procedures.
>
> Their description of a "small pressure canner" does not seem include
> ones that can't hold quart jars.
>
> On the other hand, upon re-reading, I notice on pages 17-18 that they
> actually give the expect times for pressure build-up (3-5 minutes) and
> depressurization (30 miutes with pints), so I could compare my
> canner's perfornance with those times.
>
> Oh, well. I guess I am getting old and my memory is failing me!
>
> Dave

I am 52 and I want those Aricept and Nemenda drugs now
Still an interesting topic... I am still amazed at the cool down times.
My canner heats up just as a fast as it cools down.

Enjoy Life ... Dan L

--
Garden in Zone 5 South East Michigan.

Dan L. wrote:
> In article >,
> George Shirley > wrote:
>
>> Dan L. wrote:
>>> In article >,
>>> "Marilyn" > wrote:
>>>
>>>> Well, you said it's a really small canner. I honestly don't know. See, I
>>>> have a weighted-gauge canner, so I have no way to know that the pressure
>>>> is
>>>> down to zero, other than the directions in the manual that tell me to wait
>>>> 45 minutes to an hour before removing the weight and the lid. How do you
>>>> know that it only takes 4-5 minutes in yours to reach zero pressure if you
>>>> have a weighted-gauge one? Was that in the manual that came with it?
>>> My pressure canner has a weighted gauge and a pressure/temperature gauge.
>>> It is not a dialed gauge canner.
>> I'm a bit confused here, if you have a pressure/temperature gauge that
>> is not dialed, how does it work? My background is many years in the
>> hydrocarbon processing industry and every pressure/temperature gauge I
>> ever saw was dialed and had one needle for pressure and another for
>> temperature. Curious mind and all that.
>>
>> Thanks,
>
> I have a model 910 "All-American 10-1/2-Quart Pressure Cooker/Canner".
> http://www.amazon.com/All-American-2...Canner/dp/B000
> 2803O8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1253224057&sr=1-6
> or
> http://www.canningpantry.com/pressure-canner-910.html
>
> The canner has a weighted pressure device 5-10-15 weight and has a
> single needle gauge that shows the temperature/pressure.
> Example 240 degrees = 10 lbs. When this gauge shows zero I know it is
> safe to remove the lid, about five minutes after I turn off the burner.
> Not a dialed guage. This canner has no gaskets - it has a metal to metal
> seal. A cool tool - not cheap about $200 including shipping.

Yeah, I'm familiar with the All American canner. What you have mounted
on the lid is a steam gauge. It shows the pressure and temperature of
steam at that pressure. It is a dial gauge, see the glass front, see the
printed dial under that glass, then the needle that moves based on a
bimetallic force? In plain terms that is a steam gauge. Go look up the
part number on line and see what All American calls it. Steam has a
steady temperature at specific levels, ie how many pounds it has, in 10,
25 lb increments or more or less. The only way steam can exceed the
natural temperature at a specific pressure is if it is superheated.
Pressure canners do not superheat steam, they just produce steam under
pressure, that's what safely cans your food. I'm no longer confused.

>
> Wow - are you saying you have to wait 45 minutes to remove your lid?
> I can make second batch of tomato juice in the same amount of your cool
> down time. Wow - If that is true - i LOVE my canner (kissing it now).
>
> Just made 10 1/2 pints of salsa using a water bath one hour ago.
>
> Enjoy Life ... Dan L
>

In article
>,
"Dan L." > wrote:

> Wow - are you saying you have to wait 45 minutes to remove your lid?

http://www.uga.edu/nchfp/publication...s_canners.html
See point #8.

--
-Barb, Mother Superior, HOSSSPoJ
http://web.me.com/barbschaller - Yes, I Can! blog - check
it out. And check this, too: <http://www.kare11.com/news/
newsatfour/newsatfour_article.aspx?storyid=823232&catid=323>

Melba's Jammin' wrote:
> In article
> >,
> "Dan L." > wrote:
>
>> Wow - are you saying you have to wait 45 minutes to remove your lid?
>
> http://www.uga.edu/nchfp/publication...s_canners.html
> See point #8.
>

Wow! My forty-odd year old Sears pressure canner must have been leading
edge for its day. It has a pressure gauge, 17-lb jiggler as a safety,
and vent with center piston. It is also very heavy so 45 minutes for
quarts is about right. I always wait until the pressure gauge reads zero
and the piston is in the down position and then do as the UGA page says,
tilt the jiggler to see if any steam ports out. I do take an extra step
I learned from a home extension agent many eons ago, I toss a tea towel
over the canner top and leave it for another five minutes. The extension
agent says that holds a little heat in and allows the jars to finish
bubbling after coming down from pressurization to atmospheric pressure.
Seems to work.

On Thu, 17 Sep 2009 18:21:42 -0400, "Dan L."
> wrote:

>In article >,
> George Shirley > wrote:
>
>> Dan L. wrote:
>> > In article >,
>> > "Marilyn" > wrote:
>> >
>> >> Well, you said it's a really small canner. I honestly don't know. See, I
>> >> have a weighted-gauge canner, so I have no way to know that the pressure
>> >> is
>> >> down to zero, other than the directions in the manual that tell me to wait
>> >> 45 minutes to an hour before removing the weight and the lid. How do you
>> >> know that it only takes 4-5 minutes in yours to reach zero pressure if you
>> >> have a weighted-gauge one? Was that in the manual that came with it?
>> >
>> > My pressure canner has a weighted gauge and a pressure/temperature gauge.
>> > It is not a dialed gauge canner.
>>
>> I'm a bit confused here, if you have a pressure/temperature gauge that
>> is not dialed, how does it work? My background is many years in the
>> hydrocarbon processing industry and every pressure/temperature gauge I
>> ever saw was dialed and had one needle for pressure and another for
>> temperature. Curious mind and all that.
>>
>> Thanks,
>
>I have a model 910 "All-American 10-1/2-Quart Pressure Cooker/Canner".
>http://www.amazon.com/All-American-2...Canner/dp/B000
>2803O8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1253224057&sr=1-6
>or
>http://www.canningpantry.com/pressure-canner-910.html
>
>The canner has a weighted pressure device 5-10-15 weight and has a
>single needle gauge that shows the temperature/pressure.
>Example 240 degrees = 10 lbs. When this gauge shows zero I know it is
>safe to remove the lid, about five minutes after I turn off the burner.
>Not a dialed guage. This canner has no gaskets - it has a metal to metal
>seal. A cool tool - not cheap about $200 including shipping.
>
>Wow - are you saying you have to wait 45 minutes to remove your lid?
>I can make second batch of tomato juice in the same amount of your cool
>down time. Wow - If that is true - i LOVE my canner (kissing it now).
>
>Just made 10 1/2 pints of salsa using a water bath one hour ago.

Dan,

We have an All-American Model 921 canner and even if we only load it
with 7 quarts of product, it still takes at least 45 minutes for the
pressure to drop to where the lid can be removed.
Even though yours is a smaller model, I find it hard to believe an
All-American Model 910 canner is down to atmospheric pressure in just
5 minutes after the heat is turned off. Are you sure it's not leaking
pressure somewhere?

Ross

In article >,
wrote:

> On Thu, 17 Sep 2009 18:21:42 -0400, "Dan L."
> > wrote:
>
> >In article >,
> > George Shirley > wrote:
> >
> >> Dan L. wrote:
> >> > In article >,
> >> > "Marilyn" > wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> Well, you said it's a really small canner. I honestly don't know.
> >> >> See, I
> >> >> have a weighted-gauge canner, so I have no way to know that the
> >> >> pressure
> >> >> is
> >> >> down to zero, other than the directions in the manual that tell me to
> >> >> wait
> >> >> 45 minutes to an hour before removing the weight and the lid. How do
> >> >> you
> >> >> know that it only takes 4-5 minutes in yours to reach zero pressure if
> >> >> you
> >> >> have a weighted-gauge one? Was that in the manual that came with it?
> >> >
> >> > My pressure canner has a weighted gauge and a pressure/temperature
> >> > gauge.
> >> > It is not a dialed gauge canner.
> >>
> >> I'm a bit confused here, if you have a pressure/temperature gauge that
> >> is not dialed, how does it work? My background is many years in the
> >> hydrocarbon processing industry and every pressure/temperature gauge I
> >> ever saw was dialed and had one needle for pressure and another for
> >> temperature. Curious mind and all that.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >
> >I have a model 910 "All-American 10-1/2-Quart Pressure Cooker/Canner".
> >http://www.amazon.com/All-American-2...Canner/dp/B000
> >2803O8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1253224057&sr=1-6
> >or
> >http://www.canningpantry.com/pressure-canner-910.html
> >
> >The canner has a weighted pressure device 5-10-15 weight and has a
> >single needle gauge that shows the temperature/pressure.
> >Example 240 degrees = 10 lbs. When this gauge shows zero I know it is
> >safe to remove the lid, about five minutes after I turn off the burner.
> >Not a dialed guage. This canner has no gaskets - it has a metal to metal
> >seal. A cool tool - not cheap about $200 including shipping.
> >
> >Wow - are you saying you have to wait 45 minutes to remove your lid?
> >I can make second batch of tomato juice in the same amount of your cool
> >down time. Wow - If that is true - i LOVE my canner (kissing it now).
> >
> >Just made 10 1/2 pints of salsa using a water bath one hour ago.
>
> Dan,
>
> We have an All-American Model 921 canner and even if we only load it
> with 7 quarts of product, it still takes at least 45 minutes for the
> pressure to drop to where the lid can be removed.
> Even though yours is a smaller model, I find it hard to believe an
> All-American Model 910 canner is down to atmospheric pressure in just
> 5 minutes after the heat is turned off. Are you sure it's not leaking
> pressure somewhere?
>
> Ross

No, it does not leak. Tightened down with petroleum jelly sealing it.
About 5-10 minutes after I turn the the burner off, the gauge goes from
10/240 to ZERO. I remove the weight and some steam vents for another 2
minutes. When no steam is vented. I remove the lid. With the lid off I
wait ten minutes and POP POP goes the lids as they seal. After 10
minutes in the open canner, I move the jars to the counter.

The lid does form a slight suction. As in the instruction booklet, I use
a screwdriver to unstick the lid. Very little force is needed to unstick
the lid I could use my fingers to unstick it, the canner is still too
hot to touch, but pressure is zero and no steam is venting.

My sister in-law borrowed my canner and also had similar results. I did
not tell her how to use it. She read and followed the instructions as I
did. I am I believe I am following the canner's instructions to the
letter. It does not state anything about waiting a specific time.

When removing the canner lid, their are no loud popping sounds or any
blast off pressure coming from it or excess pressure pushing the lid
off. Are you waiting for the canner to be safe to touch?

I do believe the smaller canner's heat-up and cool-down times are due to
its size. It is only 10.5 quarts in volume. A 921 is a 21 quart canner,
twice the size of a 921. The surface area of the 921 will have much more
than twice the surface area and will, more than likely, take more than
twice the time to heat-up and cool-down.

There may be another reason the faster cool downs. I do not can quarts.
I can only pints. I fill the canner half way up the jars. Quarts may
need more water to cover half height of the jars due to its height.
Less water in the canner may have another affect. With your larger
canner you will have at "least" 4 times the amount of water to heat-up
and cool-down for quarts instead of pints. Perhaps more than four times
longer than a smaller one.

I will say this. I have ceiling fans in every room of my home, including
the kitchen and dinning room. Except for winter, all ceiling fans runs
24/7. I have air conditioning, I do not use it, I like the open windows.
The kitchen door wall is also open when I cook when it is warm outside.
When all four burners are going, I like a to keep the heat out. Aluminum
metals heats-up and cools-down faster than stainless steel. Why many
cars have aluminum engines.

I have read reviews about these canners from Amazon and other sites
before choosing the smaller size. I tried to find the article that one
could do two batches in the same amount of time as a canner twice the
size. I could not find it.

I am new at canning, I hope I am not doing something wrong. The more I
read, I believe my results are normal. I may call the company and ask if
my results are the same as theirs. Does anyone else have this small 910
canner?

Enjoy Life ... Dan L

--
Garden in Zone 5 South East Michigan.

"Dan L." > wrote in message
...
> In article >,
> wrote:
>
>> On Thu, 17 Sep 2009 18:21:42 -0400, "Dan L."
>> > wrote:
>>
>> >In article >,
>> > George Shirley > wrote:
>> >
>> >> Dan L. wrote:
>> >> > In article >,
>> >> > "Marilyn" > wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> >> Well, you said it's a really small canner. I honestly don't know.
>> >> >> See, I
>> >> >> have a weighted-gauge canner, so I have no way to know that the
>> >> >> pressure
>> >> >> is
>> >> >> down to zero, other than the directions in the manual that tell me
>> >> >> to
>> >> >> wait
>> >> >> 45 minutes to an hour before removing the weight and the lid. How
>> >> >> do
>> >> >> you
>> >> >> know that it only takes 4-5 minutes in yours to reach zero pressure
>> >> >> if
>> >> >> you
>> >> >> have a weighted-gauge one? Was that in the manual that came with
>> >> >> it?
>> >> >
>> >> > My pressure canner has a weighted gauge and a pressure/temperature
>> >> > gauge.
>> >> > It is not a dialed gauge canner.
>> >>
>> >> I'm a bit confused here, if you have a pressure/temperature gauge that
>> >> is not dialed, how does it work? My background is many years in the
>> >> hydrocarbon processing industry and every pressure/temperature gauge I
>> >> ever saw was dialed and had one needle for pressure and another for
>> >> temperature. Curious mind and all that.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks,
>> >
>> >I have a model 910 "All-American 10-1/2-Quart Pressure Cooker/Canner".
>> >http://www.amazon.com/All-American-2...Canner/dp/B000
>> >2803O8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1253224057&sr=1-6
>> >or
>> >http://www.canningpantry.com/pressure-canner-910.html
>> >
>> >The canner has a weighted pressure device 5-10-15 weight and has a
>> >single needle gauge that shows the temperature/pressure.
>> >Example 240 degrees = 10 lbs. When this gauge shows zero I know it is
>> >safe to remove the lid, about five minutes after I turn off the burner.
>> >Not a dialed guage. This canner has no gaskets - it has a metal to metal
>> >seal. A cool tool - not cheap about $200 including shipping.
>> >
>> >Wow - are you saying you have to wait 45 minutes to remove your lid?
>> >I can make second batch of tomato juice in the same amount of your cool
>> >down time. Wow - If that is true - i LOVE my canner (kissing it now).
>> >
>> >Just made 10 1/2 pints of salsa using a water bath one hour ago.
>>
>> Dan,
>>
>> We have an All-American Model 921 canner and even if we only load it
>> with 7 quarts of product, it still takes at least 45 minutes for the
>> pressure to drop to where the lid can be removed.
>> Even though yours is a smaller model, I find it hard to believe an
>> All-American Model 910 canner is down to atmospheric pressure in just
>> 5 minutes after the heat is turned off. Are you sure it's not leaking
>> pressure somewhere?
>>
>> Ross
>
> No, it does not leak. Tightened down with petroleum jelly sealing it.
> About 5-10 minutes after I turn the the burner off, the gauge goes from
> 10/240 to ZERO. I remove the weight and some steam vents for another 2
> minutes. When no steam is vented. I remove the lid. With the lid off I
> wait ten minutes and POP POP goes the lids as they seal. After 10
> minutes in the open canner, I move the jars to the counter.

I'm thinking you shouldn't be removing the weight from the canner and having
ANY steam vent from it at all. Steam venting is a sign that the pressure
hasn't been reduced to zero.

> The lid does form a slight suction. As in the instruction booklet, I use
> a screwdriver to unstick the lid. Very little force is needed to unstick
> the lid I could use my fingers to unstick it, the canner is still too
> hot to touch, but pressure is zero and no steam is venting.
>
> My sister in-law borrowed my canner and also had similar results. I did
> not tell her how to use it. She read and followed the instructions as I
> did. I am I believe I am following the canner's instructions to the
> letter. It does not state anything about waiting a specific time.
>
> When removing the canner lid, their are no loud popping sounds or any
> blast off pressure coming from it or excess pressure pushing the lid
> off. Are you waiting for the canner to be safe to touch?

You don't have to wait that long. Mine is still extremely hot when the
pressuring-down time is done and the jars are still boiling inside when I
remove them from the canner (to a folded towel on the counter). That's when
they start doing the popping as the lids pull in and seal.

> I do believe the smaller canner's heat-up and cool-down times are due to
> its size. It is only 10.5 quarts in volume. A 921 is a 21 quart canner,
> twice the size of a 921. The surface area of the 921 will have much more
> than twice the surface area and will, more than likely, take more than
> twice the time to heat-up and cool-down.

My canner is 12 quarts, which is only 1.5 quarts larger and it definitely
does not reduce pressure in such a small amount of time. Manual for mine,
which there again, is a Mirror M-051211, says it takes 25 to 35 minutes for
a small canner to drop in pressure and 45 minutes to an hour for a large
canner with a full load. Five minutes just sounds WAY too short.

> There may be another reason the faster cool downs. I do not can quarts.
> I can only pints. I fill the canner half way up the jars. Quarts may
> need more water to cover half height of the jars due to its height.
> Less water in the canner may have another affect. With your larger
> canner you will have at "least" 4 times the amount of water to heat-up
> and cool-down for quarts instead of pints. Perhaps more than four times
> longer than a smaller one.

Are these the instructions that came with the canner? See, with my pressure
canner (12 quart), it says to add two quarts of water to the canner.
Doesn't matter if it's pints or quarts, it's still 2 quarts of water added
to the canner. Doesn't say to fill the canner halfway up the jars and as
far as I can tell, the water doesn't go that far up. I don't pay that much
attention when I'm pouring the water in. I will say that if I am not doing
a full canner load, I will put jars that are filled with water (not lidded)
in the canner to take up the space that jars filled with food would take.

> I will say this. I have ceiling fans in every room of my home, including
> the kitchen and dinning room. Except for winter, all ceiling fans runs
> 24/7. I have air conditioning, I do not use it, I like the open windows.
> The kitchen door wall is also open when I cook when it is warm outside.
> When all four burners are going, I like a to keep the heat out. Aluminum
> metals heats-up and cools-down faster than stainless steel. Why many
> cars have aluminum engines.
> I have read reviews about these canners from Amazon and other sites
> before choosing the smaller size. I tried to find the article that one
> could do two batches in the same amount of time as a canner twice the
> size. I could not find it.
>
> I am new at canning, I hope I am not doing something wrong. The more I
> read, I believe my results are normal. I may call the company and ask if
> my results are the same as theirs. Does anyone else have this small 910
> canner?



--
-Marilyn

On Mon, 21 Sep 2009 18:52:52 -0400, "Dan L."
> wrote:

>In article >,
> wrote:

Lots of snippage

>> Even though yours is a smaller model, I find it hard to believe an
>> All-American Model 910 canner is down to atmospheric pressure in just
>> 5 minutes after the heat is turned off. Are you sure it's not leaking
>> pressure somewhere?
>>
>> Ross
>
>No, it does not leak. Tightened down with petroleum jelly sealing it.
>About 5-10 minutes after I turn the the burner off, the gauge goes from
>10/240 to ZERO. I remove the weight and some steam vents for another 2
>minutes. When no steam is vented. I remove the lid.



I think you just highlighted the source of your speedy cooling time.
When the pressure in your canner has dropped to atmospheric pressure
there will be no steam venting when the weight is removed.
If you remove the weight and have steam venting for another 2 minutes,
you are significantly accelerating the cooling time.
Just tip the weight gently and, if steam vents, let it sit for a while
longer until no steam vents when the weight is tipped.
Your method risks liquid being expelled from the jars and ruining the
seal.

Ross.

In article >,
wrote:

> On Mon, 21 Sep 2009 18:52:52 -0400, "Dan L."
> > wrote:
>
> >In article >,
> > wrote:
>
> Lots of snippage
>
> >> Even though yours is a smaller model, I find it hard to believe an
> >> All-American Model 910 canner is down to atmospheric pressure in just
> >> 5 minutes after the heat is turned off. Are you sure it's not leaking
> >> pressure somewhere?
> >>
> >> Ross
> >
> >No, it does not leak. Tightened down with petroleum jelly sealing it.
> >About 5-10 minutes after I turn the the burner off, the gauge goes from
> >10/240 to ZERO. I remove the weight and some steam vents for another 2
> >minutes. When no steam is vented. I remove the lid.
>
>
>
> I think you just highlighted the source of your speedy cooling time.
> When the pressure in your canner has dropped to atmospheric pressure
> there will be no steam venting when the weight is removed.
> If you remove the weight and have steam venting for another 2 minutes,
> you are significantly accelerating the cooling time.
> Just tip the weight gently and, if steam vents, let it sit for a while
> longer until no steam vents when the weight is tipped.
> Your method risks liquid being expelled from the jars and ruining the
> seal.
>
> Ross.

Ahhh! Most helpful from a newbe to Ross and Marilyn!
Long live the usenet!

You are both correct. I had to look back at the owners manual. It does
say remove weight slowly after the gauge reads zero. I miss-read the 2
minute wait part. It does state to wait 2 additional minutes after
tipping weight until no more venting. This process could take additional
15 minutes or more according to the manual. Making it more in line with
other cool down times. I have not seen any loss of liquid in any jars.
However - the manual does say venting too fast could crack the canner.
On another point the manual also states by waiting too long the canner
lid could form a strong suction that will make the lid very difficult to
remove. So this will add least an extra 15 minutes to the cool down time.


==================

One other point of interest from the next to last post is --
My manual states that 1.5 inches of water (somewhere 1 to 2 quarts) is
to be placed in the bottom of the canner. I could not find in the manual
about adding water up to half way up on the jars in my manual. I am
using more water than the manual asked for.

I found where I got that idea of adding water half way up on the jars.
In the holy Bible of canning - Ball's "Complete Book of HOME
PRESERVING", page 381. A picture showing water going half-way up the
jars. On page 382 States fill jars half way with water and add 2 to 3
inches of additional water to the canner.

I accepted the canners manual 1.5 inches of water as a minimum for
cooking or canning. I used the ball book as guide for using different
sizes of jars for canning.

So would I use the same amount of water (1.5 inches) for pints as I
would for quarts?

Thanks for the fine reading of my post and increasing the longevity of
my canner.

Enjoy Life ... Dan L

--
Garden in Zone 5 South East Michigan.

On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 16:38:28 -0400, "Dan L."
> wrote:

>In article >,
> wrote:
>
>> On Mon, 21 Sep 2009 18:52:52 -0400, "Dan L."
>> > wrote:
>>
>> >In article >,
>> > wrote:
>>
>> Lots of snippage
>>
>> >> Even though yours is a smaller model, I find it hard to believe an
>> >> All-American Model 910 canner is down to atmospheric pressure in just
>> >> 5 minutes after the heat is turned off. Are you sure it's not leaking
>> >> pressure somewhere?
>> >>
>> >> Ross
>> >
>> >No, it does not leak. Tightened down with petroleum jelly sealing it.
>> >About 5-10 minutes after I turn the the burner off, the gauge goes from
>> >10/240 to ZERO. I remove the weight and some steam vents for another 2
>> >minutes. When no steam is vented. I remove the lid.
>>
>>
>>
>> I think you just highlighted the source of your speedy cooling time.
>> When the pressure in your canner has dropped to atmospheric pressure
>> there will be no steam venting when the weight is removed.
>> If you remove the weight and have steam venting for another 2 minutes,
>> you are significantly accelerating the cooling time.
>> Just tip the weight gently and, if steam vents, let it sit for a while
>> longer until no steam vents when the weight is tipped.
>> Your method risks liquid being expelled from the jars and ruining the
>> seal.
>>
>> Ross.
>
>Ahhh! Most helpful from a newbe to Ross and Marilyn!
>Long live the usenet!
>
>You are both correct. I had to look back at the owners manual. It does
>say remove weight slowly after the gauge reads zero. I miss-read the 2
>minute wait part. It does state to wait 2 additional minutes after
>tipping weight until no more venting. This process could take additional
>15 minutes or more according to the manual. Making it more in line with
>other cool down times. I have not seen any loss of liquid in any jars.
>However - the manual does say venting too fast could crack the canner.
>On another point the manual also states by waiting too long the canner
>lid could form a strong suction that will make the lid very difficult to
>remove. So this will add least an extra 15 minutes to the cool down time.
>
>
>==================
>
>One other point of interest from the next to last post is --
>My manual states that 1.5 inches of water (somewhere 1 to 2 quarts) is
>to be placed in the bottom of the canner. I could not find in the manual
>about adding water up to half way up on the jars in my manual. I am
>using more water than the manual asked for.
>
>I found where I got that idea of adding water half way up on the jars.
>In the holy Bible of canning - Ball's "Complete Book of HOME
>PRESERVING", page 381. A picture showing water going half-way up the
>jars. On page 382 States fill jars half way with water and add 2 to 3
>inches of additional water to the canner.
>
>I accepted the canners manual 1.5 inches of water as a minimum for
>cooking or canning. I used the ball book as guide for using different
>sizes of jars for canning.
>
>So would I use the same amount of water (1.5 inches) for pints as I
>would for quarts?
>
>Thanks for the fine reading of my post and increasing the longevity of
>my canner.
>
>Enjoy Life ... Dan L

Dan,

You'll be a master canner before you know it ;-).
Now, on your point above:
>On page 382 States fill jars half way with water and add 2 to 3
>inches of additional water to the canner.
That is just meant as a convenient method of heating the jars prior to
adding product to them. Then you'll note it says something to the
effect 'after all the jars are filled, adjust the water level to that
recommended by the canner's manufacturer'.
For pressure canning, my All American manual calls for 1.5 inches of
water to be put in the canner prior to adding the jars. Of course,
when the jars are added the water level will increase slightly but,
not to half way up the jars.
We also have a Mirro 16 qt. canner and the manual for it calls for 2
qt. of water to be added for all canning, quarts or pints.
Basically, what you want/need is to have sufficient water that it will
not boil dry even on a 90 or 100 minute session.
One other point I'll make now is to *always* use the rack and never
put the jars directly on the bottom of the canner.

Have fun,

Ross.

> wrote in message
...
> On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 16:38:28 -0400, "Dan L."
> > wrote:
>
>>In article >,
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On Mon, 21 Sep 2009 18:52:52 -0400, "Dan L."
>>> > wrote:
>>>
>>> >In article >,
>>> > wrote:
>>>
>>> Lots of snippage
>>>
>>> >> Even though yours is a smaller model, I find it hard to believe an
>>> >> All-American Model 910 canner is down to atmospheric pressure in just
>>> >> 5 minutes after the heat is turned off. Are you sure it's not leaking
>>> >> pressure somewhere?
>>> >>
>>> >> Ross
>>> >
>>> >No, it does not leak. Tightened down with petroleum jelly sealing it.
>>> >About 5-10 minutes after I turn the the burner off, the gauge goes from
>>> >10/240 to ZERO. I remove the weight and some steam vents for another 2
>>> >minutes. When no steam is vented. I remove the lid.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I think you just highlighted the source of your speedy cooling time.
>>> When the pressure in your canner has dropped to atmospheric pressure
>>> there will be no steam venting when the weight is removed.
>>> If you remove the weight and have steam venting for another 2 minutes,
>>> you are significantly accelerating the cooling time.
>>> Just tip the weight gently and, if steam vents, let it sit for a while
>>> longer until no steam vents when the weight is tipped.
>>> Your method risks liquid being expelled from the jars and ruining the
>>> seal.
>>>
>>> Ross.
>>
>>Ahhh! Most helpful from a newbe to Ross and Marilyn!
>>Long live the usenet!
>>
>>You are both correct. I had to look back at the owners manual. It does
>>say remove weight slowly after the gauge reads zero. I miss-read the 2
>>minute wait part. It does state to wait 2 additional minutes after
>>tipping weight until no more venting. This process could take additional
>>15 minutes or more according to the manual. Making it more in line with
>>other cool down times. I have not seen any loss of liquid in any jars.
>>However - the manual does say venting too fast could crack the canner.
>>On another point the manual also states by waiting too long the canner
>>lid could form a strong suction that will make the lid very difficult to
>>remove. So this will add least an extra 15 minutes to the cool down time.
>>
>>
>>==================
>>
>>One other point of interest from the next to last post is --
>>My manual states that 1.5 inches of water (somewhere 1 to 2 quarts) is
>>to be placed in the bottom of the canner. I could not find in the manual
>>about adding water up to half way up on the jars in my manual. I am
>>using more water than the manual asked for.
>>
>>I found where I got that idea of adding water half way up on the jars.
>>In the holy Bible of canning - Ball's "Complete Book of HOME
>>PRESERVING", page 381. A picture showing water going half-way up the
>>jars. On page 382 States fill jars half way with water and add 2 to 3
>>inches of additional water to the canner.
>>
>>I accepted the canners manual 1.5 inches of water as a minimum for
>>cooking or canning. I used the ball book as guide for using different
>>sizes of jars for canning.
>>
>>So would I use the same amount of water (1.5 inches) for pints as I
>>would for quarts?
>>
>>Thanks for the fine reading of my post and increasing the longevity of
>>my canner.
>>
>>Enjoy Life ... Dan L
>
> Dan,
>
> You'll be a master canner before you know it ;-).
> Now, on your point above:
>>On page 382 States fill jars half way with water and add 2 to 3
>>inches of additional water to the canner.
> That is just meant as a convenient method of heating the jars prior to
> adding product to them. Then you'll note it says something to the
> effect 'after all the jars are filled, adjust the water level to that
> recommended by the canner's manufacturer'.

Yep, I was just going to echo what Ross said. You totally misread what they
mean about halfway up the jars. You fill the jars with water halfway and
then add the 2 to 3 inches of water to the canner in order to heat the jars
to prevent thermal shock. But as I said in an earlier post, I just put the
jars I'm going to use for pressure canning upside down in a large skillet
( mine is large enough to hold 7 quart-size jars) filled with an inch or two
of water and let it heat to a boil, then turn down to medium low to keep
simmering and hot until I'm ready to fill the jars. I've never heated mine
in the pressure canner itself.

> For pressure canning, my All American manual calls for 1.5 inches of
> water to be put in the canner prior to adding the jars. Of course,
> when the jars are added the water level will increase slightly but,
> not to half way up the jars.
> We also have a Mirro 16 qt. canner and the manual for it calls for 2
> qt. of water to be added for all canning, quarts or pints.

The two quarts of water seems to put the water level about two inches up in
my Mirro 12 qt. so that's probably pretty standard.

> Basically, what you want/need is to have sufficient water that it will
> not boil dry even on a 90 or 100 minute session.
> One other point I'll make now is to *always* use the rack and never
> put the jars directly on the bottom of the canner.

I'm shuddering at the thought of forgetting the rack. I've never done that
before, but I can imagine it would not be pretty. I've only had a very tiny
amount of jars break on me either in BWB or pressure canning and it was not
a happy experience.


--
-Marilyn

In article >,
"Marilyn" > wrote:

> > wrote in message
> ...
> > On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 16:38:28 -0400, "Dan L."
> > > wrote:
> >
> >>In article >,
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >>> On Mon, 21 Sep 2009 18:52:52 -0400, "Dan L."
> >>> > wrote:
> >>>
> >>> >In article >,
> >>> > wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Lots of snippage
> >>>
> >>> >> Even though yours is a smaller model, I find it hard to believe an
> >>> >> All-American Model 910 canner is down to atmospheric pressure in just
> >>> >> 5 minutes after the heat is turned off. Are you sure it's not leaking
> >>> >> pressure somewhere?
> >>> >>
> >>> >> Ross
> >>> >
> >>> >No, it does not leak. Tightened down with petroleum jelly sealing it.
> >>> >About 5-10 minutes after I turn the the burner off, the gauge goes from
> >>> >10/240 to ZERO. I remove the weight and some steam vents for another 2
> >>> >minutes. When no steam is vented. I remove the lid.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> I think you just highlighted the source of your speedy cooling time.
> >>> When the pressure in your canner has dropped to atmospheric pressure
> >>> there will be no steam venting when the weight is removed.
> >>> If you remove the weight and have steam venting for another 2 minutes,
> >>> you are significantly accelerating the cooling time.
> >>> Just tip the weight gently and, if steam vents, let it sit for a while
> >>> longer until no steam vents when the weight is tipped.
> >>> Your method risks liquid being expelled from the jars and ruining the
> >>> seal.
> >>>
> >>> Ross.
> >>
> >>Ahhh! Most helpful from a newbe to Ross and Marilyn!
> >>Long live the usenet!
> >>
> >>You are both correct. I had to look back at the owners manual. It does
> >>say remove weight slowly after the gauge reads zero. I miss-read the 2
> >>minute wait part. It does state to wait 2 additional minutes after
> >>tipping weight until no more venting. This process could take additional
> >>15 minutes or more according to the manual. Making it more in line with
> >>other cool down times. I have not seen any loss of liquid in any jars.
> >>However - the manual does say venting too fast could crack the canner.
> >>On another point the manual also states by waiting too long the canner
> >>lid could form a strong suction that will make the lid very difficult to
> >>remove. So this will add least an extra 15 minutes to the cool down time.
> >>
> >>
> >>==================
> >>
> >>One other point of interest from the next to last post is --
> >>My manual states that 1.5 inches of water (somewhere 1 to 2 quarts) is
> >>to be placed in the bottom of the canner. I could not find in the manual
> >>about adding water up to half way up on the jars in my manual. I am
> >>using more water than the manual asked for.
> >>
> >>I found where I got that idea of adding water half way up on the jars.
> >>In the holy Bible of canning - Ball's "Complete Book of HOME
> >>PRESERVING", page 381. A picture showing water going half-way up the
> >>jars. On page 382 States fill jars half way with water and add 2 to 3
> >>inches of additional water to the canner.
> >>
> >>I accepted the canners manual 1.5 inches of water as a minimum for
> >>cooking or canning. I used the ball book as guide for using different
> >>sizes of jars for canning.
> >>
> >>So would I use the same amount of water (1.5 inches) for pints as I
> >>would for quarts?
> >>
> >>Thanks for the fine reading of my post and increasing the longevity of
> >>my canner.
> >>
> >>Enjoy Life ... Dan L
> >
> > Dan,
> >
> > You'll be a master canner before you know it ;-).
> > Now, on your point above:
> >>On page 382 States fill jars half way with water and add 2 to 3
> >>inches of additional water to the canner.
> > That is just meant as a convenient method of heating the jars prior to
> > adding product to them. Then you'll note it says something to the
> > effect 'after all the jars are filled, adjust the water level to that
> > recommended by the canner's manufacturer'.
>
> Yep, I was just going to echo what Ross said. You totally misread what they
> mean about halfway up the jars. You fill the jars with water halfway and
> then add the 2 to 3 inches of water to the canner in order to heat the jars
> to prevent thermal shock. But as I said in an earlier post, I just put the
> jars I'm going to use for pressure canning upside down in a large skillet
> ( mine is large enough to hold 7 quart-size jars) filled with an inch or two
> of water and let it heat to a boil, then turn down to medium low to keep
> simmering and hot until I'm ready to fill the jars. I've never heated mine
> in the pressure canner itself.
>
> > For pressure canning, my All American manual calls for 1.5 inches of
> > water to be put in the canner prior to adding the jars. Of course,
> > when the jars are added the water level will increase slightly but,
> > not to half way up the jars.
> > We also have a Mirro 16 qt. canner and the manual for it calls for 2
> > qt. of water to be added for all canning, quarts or pints.
>
> The two quarts of water seems to put the water level about two inches up in
> my Mirro 12 qt. so that's probably pretty standard.
>
> > Basically, what you want/need is to have sufficient water that it will
> > not boil dry even on a 90 or 100 minute session.
> > One other point I'll make now is to *always* use the rack and never
> > put the jars directly on the bottom of the canner.
>
> I'm shuddering at the thought of forgetting the rack. I've never done that
> before, but I can imagine it would not be pretty. I've only had a very tiny
> amount of jars break on me either in BWB or pressure canning and it was not
> a happy experience.

Ok - last questions and I will let this thread end

Will 2 inches of water last for one hour and half of pressure cooking?

What happens if water goes low? Will pressure go low?

Will it hurt if one uses more water like I did?

Is it bad to submerge jars in a large pot? like not hot enough?

The racks stay in my BWB canner and the American Pressure canner.
I have another small stainless steel pressure cooker with a simple 5lb
weight for cooking. Cooking is also another art I have been trying out
in the last year. Eating out all the time is not an option with the new
gluten free diet. I feel the need to create my own convenient foods.

More non related rambling ...
One of my curses are books. I have over a thousand books (I know it's
stupid). When one reads several books on a specific subject. It can
enhance ones learning or get confused more easily and I am not getting
younger so my brain needs to work harder. I am mostly a self learner. I
will try and learn on my own first, then try usenet for help and
questions, Sometimes take an evening class (Like the Master Gardeners
Volunteer Program). Try learning Vector Calculus on your own (fun)

It has taken me about five years to get the garden thing down.
I will have my Master Gardeners badge sometime soon as fulfill my
volunteer hours. Now to go for a Master Canner Badge... Hmmm... If I do
not poison myself first

Nothing in this life is simple... Dan

--
Garden in Zone 5 South East Michigan.

Dan L. wrote:
> In article >,
> "Marilyn" > wrote:
>
>> > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 16:38:28 -0400, "Dan L."
>>> > wrote:
>>>
>>>> In article >,
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On Mon, 21 Sep 2009 18:52:52 -0400, "Dan L."
>>>>> > wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> In article >,
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>> Lots of snippage
>>>>>
>>>>>>> Even though yours is a smaller model, I find it hard to believe an
>>>>>>> All-American Model 910 canner is down to atmospheric pressure in just
>>>>>>> 5 minutes after the heat is turned off. Are you sure it's not leaking
>>>>>>> pressure somewhere?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Ross
>>>>>> No, it does not leak. Tightened down with petroleum jelly sealing it.
>>>>>> About 5-10 minutes after I turn the the burner off, the gauge goes from
>>>>>> 10/240 to ZERO. I remove the weight and some steam vents for another 2
>>>>>> minutes. When no steam is vented. I remove the lid.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I think you just highlighted the source of your speedy cooling time.
>>>>> When the pressure in your canner has dropped to atmospheric pressure
>>>>> there will be no steam venting when the weight is removed.
>>>>> If you remove the weight and have steam venting for another 2 minutes,
>>>>> you are significantly accelerating the cooling time.
>>>>> Just tip the weight gently and, if steam vents, let it sit for a while
>>>>> longer until no steam vents when the weight is tipped.
>>>>> Your method risks liquid being expelled from the jars and ruining the
>>>>> seal.
>>>>>
>>>>> Ross.
>>>> Ahhh! Most helpful from a newbe to Ross and Marilyn!
>>>> Long live the usenet!
>>>>
>>>> You are both correct. I had to look back at the owners manual. It does
>>>> say remove weight slowly after the gauge reads zero. I miss-read the 2
>>>> minute wait part. It does state to wait 2 additional minutes after
>>>> tipping weight until no more venting. This process could take additional
>>>> 15 minutes or more according to the manual. Making it more in line with
>>>> other cool down times. I have not seen any loss of liquid in any jars.
>>>> However - the manual does say venting too fast could crack the canner.
>>>> On another point the manual also states by waiting too long the canner
>>>> lid could form a strong suction that will make the lid very difficult to
>>>> remove. So this will add least an extra 15 minutes to the cool down time.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ==================
>>>>
>>>> One other point of interest from the next to last post is --
>>>> My manual states that 1.5 inches of water (somewhere 1 to 2 quarts) is
>>>> to be placed in the bottom of the canner. I could not find in the manual
>>>> about adding water up to half way up on the jars in my manual. I am
>>>> using more water than the manual asked for.
>>>>
>>>> I found where I got that idea of adding water half way up on the jars.
>>>> In the holy Bible of canning - Ball's "Complete Book of HOME
>>>> PRESERVING", page 381. A picture showing water going half-way up the
>>>> jars. On page 382 States fill jars half way with water and add 2 to 3
>>>> inches of additional water to the canner.
>>>>
>>>> I accepted the canners manual 1.5 inches of water as a minimum for
>>>> cooking or canning. I used the ball book as guide for using different
>>>> sizes of jars for canning.
>>>>
>>>> So would I use the same amount of water (1.5 inches) for pints as I
>>>> would for quarts?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for the fine reading of my post and increasing the longevity of
>>>> my canner.
>>>>
>>>> Enjoy Life ... Dan L
>>> Dan,
>>>
>>> You'll be a master canner before you know it ;-).
>>> Now, on your point above:
>>>> On page 382 States fill jars half way with water and add 2 to 3
>>>> inches of additional water to the canner.
>>> That is just meant as a convenient method of heating the jars prior to
>>> adding product to them. Then you'll note it says something to the
>>> effect 'after all the jars are filled, adjust the water level to that
>>> recommended by the canner's manufacturer'.
>> Yep, I was just going to echo what Ross said. You totally misread what they
>> mean about halfway up the jars. You fill the jars with water halfway and
>> then add the 2 to 3 inches of water to the canner in order to heat the jars
>> to prevent thermal shock. But as I said in an earlier post, I just put the
>> jars I'm going to use for pressure canning upside down in a large skillet
>> ( mine is large enough to hold 7 quart-size jars) filled with an inch or two
>> of water and let it heat to a boil, then turn down to medium low to keep
>> simmering and hot until I'm ready to fill the jars. I've never heated mine
>> in the pressure canner itself.
>>
>>> For pressure canning, my All American manual calls for 1.5 inches of
>>> water to be put in the canner prior to adding the jars. Of course,
>>> when the jars are added the water level will increase slightly but,
>>> not to half way up the jars.
>>> We also have a Mirro 16 qt. canner and the manual for it calls for 2
>>> qt. of water to be added for all canning, quarts or pints.
>> The two quarts of water seems to put the water level about two inches up in
>> my Mirro 12 qt. so that's probably pretty standard.
>>
>>> Basically, what you want/need is to have sufficient water that it will
>>> not boil dry even on a 90 or 100 minute session.
>>> One other point I'll make now is to *always* use the rack and never
>>> put the jars directly on the bottom of the canner.
>> I'm shuddering at the thought of forgetting the rack. I've never done that
>> before, but I can imagine it would not be pretty. I've only had a very tiny
>> amount of jars break on me either in BWB or pressure canning and it was not
>> a happy experience.
>
> Ok - last questions and I will let this thread end
>
> Will 2 inches of water last for one hour and half of pressure cooking?
>
> What happens if water goes low? Will pressure go low?
>
> Will it hurt if one uses more water like I did?

It does if you use a lot more water than is necessary, you don't get the
steam level in the pot where it does the most good.
>
> Is it bad to submerge jars in a large pot? like not hot enough?

No, many of us do it that way. For example: BWB canning, I start the
jars in the canner while I'm messing with getting things ready to can,
pints are completely covered, quarts not so much. After a few times you
learn just how much water to heat the jars up to ready them for use and
yet not overflow the canner when the filled jars are put back into it.

>
> The racks stay in my BWB canner and the American Pressure canner.
> I have another small stainless steel pressure cooker with a simple 5lb
> weight for cooking. Cooking is also another art I have been trying out
> in the last year. Eating out all the time is not an option with the new
> gluten free diet. I feel the need to create my own convenient foods.
>
> More non related rambling ...
> One of my curses are books. I have over a thousand books (I know it's
> stupid). When one reads several books on a specific subject. It can
> enhance ones learning or get confused more easily and I am not getting
> younger so my brain needs to work harder. I am mostly a self learner. I
> will try and learn on my own first, then try usenet for help and
> questions, Sometimes take an evening class (Like the Master Gardeners
> Volunteer Program). Try learning Vector Calculus on your own (fun)

I used to be a bookaholic too, gave most of my technical books to the
local library and just kept my cooking, canning, and gardening books,
ready to hand. I had trouble with plain Calculus and forget geometry.

>
> It has taken me about five years to get the garden thing down.
> I will have my Master Gardeners badge sometime soon as fulfill my
> volunteer hours. Now to go for a Master Canner Badge... Hmmm... If I do
> not poison myself first
>
> Nothing in this life is simple... Dan
>

You might want to go to the U of Georgia site and take their online
course on canning, you get as many tries as it takes to get it right.
It's pretty good course and you get a neat certificate to print out.
Some states have Master Preserver qualifications just like they do
Master Gardener.

Stay with the hobby, learn as much as you can, read all you can, and
keep asking questions here. Some of us have been canning all of our
lives. I used to help my parents and grandparents with canning chores
when I was as young as 8, DW and I started canning in 1965 and still
garden and can. You're always welcome here.

George, hit my three score and ten today.

In article
>,
"Dan L." > wrote:
> One other point of interest from the next to last post is --
> My manual states that 1.5 inches of water (somewhere 1 to 2 quarts) is
> to be placed in the bottom of the canner. I could not find in the manual
> about adding water up to half way up on the jars in my manual. I am
> using more water than the manual asked for.
>
> I found where I got that idea of adding water half way up on the jars.
> In the holy Bible of canning - Ball's "Complete Book of HOME
> PRESERVING", page 381.

Actually, it's the Ball Blue Book that is considered to be the home
preserver's bible. :-0) The big book has been out for only 3 years
while the BBB has been published since Moses wore kneepants * or at
least the 1940s. (Susan can tell me if I'm wrong about that.)

The BBB on pages 6-7 says "Filled jars sealed with two-piece caps are
placed in the canner containing approximately 2" of water." That, to
me, means you put two inches of water in the canner before you put the
jars in. I don't know if filling the canner with jars will raise the
level to half the height of the jar.

Excerpted from he
http://www.uga.edu/nchfp/publication...s_canners.html
this is what the NCHFP says about how to do it correctly. Note the
first point. Note the second paragraph of point nine.

Clean lid gaskets and other parts according to the manufacturer's
directions. Use only canners that have the Underwriter's Laboratory (UL)
approval to ensure their safety.
Follow these steps for successful pressure canning:
(Read through all the instructions before beginning.)
1. Center the canner over the burner. When you have your jars of food
ready for canning, put the rack and hot water into the canner. If the
amount of water is not specified with a given food, use 2 to 3 inches of
water. Longer processes required more water. Some specific products (for
example, smoked fish) require that you start with even more water in the
canner. Always follow the directions with USDA processes for specific
foods if they require more water be added to the canner.

For hot packed foods, you can bring the water to 180°F. ahead of time,
but be careful not to boil the water or heat it long enough for the
depth to decrease. For raw packed foods, the water should only be
brought to 140°F.

2. Place filled jars, fitted with lids, on the jar rack in the
canner, using a jar lifter. When moving jars with a jar lifter, make
sure the jar lifter is securely positioned below the neck of the jar
(below the screw band of the lid). Keep the jar upright at all times.
Tilting the jar could cause food to spill into the sealing area of the
lid.

3. Fasten the canner lid securely. Leave the weight off the vent port
or open the petcock.

4. Turn the heat setting to its highest position. Heat until the
water boils and steam flows freely in a funnel-shape from the open vent
port or petcock. While maintaining the high heat setting, let the steam
flow (exhaust) continuously for 10 minutes.

5. After this venting, or exhausting, of the canner, place the
counterweight or weighted gauge on the ventport, or close the petcock.
The canner will pressurize during the next 3 to 10 minutes.

6. Start timing the process when the pressure reading on the dial
gauge indicates that the recommended pressure has been reached, or, for
canners without dial gauges, when the weighted gauge begins to jiggle or
rock as the manufacturer describes.

7. Regulate the heat under the canner to maintain a steady pressure
at, or slightly above, the correct gauge pressure. One type of weighted
gauge should jiggle a certain number of times per minute, while another
type should rock slowly throughout the process * check the
manufacturer's directions.
€ Loss of pressure at any time can result in underprocessing, or
unsafe food.
€ Quick and large pressure variations during processing may cause
unnecessary liquid losses from jars.
8.
IMPORTANT: If at any time pressure goes below the recommended amount,
bring the canner back to pressure and begin the timing of the process
over, from the beginning (using the total original process time). This
is important for the safety of the food.

9. When the timed process is completed, turn off the heat, remove the
canner from the heat (electric burner) if possible, and let the canner
cool down naturally. (It is okay to leave the canner in place after you
have turned off the burner.) While it is cooling, it is also
de-pressurizing. Do not force cool the canner. Forced cooling may result
in food spoilage. Cooling the canner with cold running water or opening
the vent port before the canner is fully depressurized are types of
forced cooling. They will also cause loss of liquid from jars and seal
failures. Force cooling may also warp the canner lid.

Even after a dial gauge canner has cooled until the dial reads zero
pounds pressure, be cautious in removing the weight from the vent port.
Tilt the weight slightly to make sure no steam escapes before pulling it
all the way off. Newer canners will also have a cover lock in the lid or
handle that must release after cooling before the lids are twisted off.
Do not force the lid open if the cover locks are not released.
Manufacturers will provide more detailed instructions for particular
models.

Depressurization of older canner models without dial gauges should be
timed. Standard size heavy-walled canners require about 30 minutes when
loaded with pints and 45 minutes when loaded with quarts. Newer
thin-walled canners cool more rapidly and are equipped with vent locks
that are designed to open when the pressure is gone. These canners are
depressurized when the piston in the vent lock drops to a normal
position. Some of these locks are hidden in handles and cannot be seen;
however, the lid will not turn open until the lock is released.

10. After the canner is completely depressurized, remove the weight
from the vent port or open the petcock. Wait 10 minutes; then unfasten
the lid and remove it carefully. Lift the lid with the underside away
from you so that the steam coming out of the canner does not burn your
face.

11. Using a jar lifter, remove the jars one at a time, being
careful not to tilt the jars. Carefully place them directly onto a towel
or cake cooling rack, leaving at least one inch of space between the
jars during cooling. Avoid placing the jars on a cold surface or in a
cold draft.

12. Let the jars sit undisturbed while they cool, from 12 to 24
hours. Do not tighten ring bands on the lids or push down on the center
of the flat metal lid until the jar is completely cooled.

13. Remove ring bands from sealed jars. Ring bands can be washed
and dried and put away for using another time. Put any unsealed jars in
the refrigerator and use first.

14. Wash jars and lids to remove all residues.

15. Label jars and store in a cool, dry place out of direct light.

16. Dry the canner, lid and gasket. Take off removable petcocks and
safety valves; wash and dry thoroughly.

--
-Barb, Mother Superior, HOSSSPoJ
http://web.me.com/barbschaller - Yes, I Can! blog - check
it out. And check this, too: <http://www.kare11.com/news/
newsatfour/newsatfour_article.aspx?storyid=823232&catid=323>