I have grape plants in their second year, and am ready to remove all except
two vines per plant. Painful, but supposedly it will encourage the growth of
the remaining two vines. But does anyone know what to do about the laterals
that are forming? It seems removing them would not be a good thing, but I
don't know. I haven't found anything on the viticulture sites.
Ken

Ken Anderson wrote:

> I have grape plants in their second year, and am ready to remove all
> except
> two vines per plant. Painful, but supposedly it will encourage the growth
> of
> the remaining two vines. But does anyone know what to do about the
> laterals
> that are forming? It seems removing them would not be a good thing, but I
> don't know. I haven't found anything on the viticulture sites.
> Ken

I think you mean two "shoots" per vine don't you.

Someone may offer you other advice but if it were me, I would not prune
until dormancy. The only time I green prune is when there is prolific
growth that is shading grapes.

I guess it depends on how well the shoots are doing. If, for
instance,you have 5 vigorous shoots all looking like they'll make the
bottom wire then just make sure they all have good sun exposure and
leave them be. BUT, if they all are growing weakly I'd cut them back
to the 2 best looking and POSITIONED shoots and water the vines. It is
possible to have too many shoots right now. I would have pruned back
to 2 buds in the spring but that's something you can think about for
future vines.


Bob

"Paul E. Lehmann" > wrote in message >...
> Ken Anderson wrote:
>
> > I have grape plants in their second year, and am ready to remove all
> > except
> > two vines per plant. Painful, but supposedly it will encourage the growth
> > of
> > the remaining two vines. But does anyone know what to do about the
> > laterals
> > that are forming? It seems removing them would not be a good thing, but I
> > don't know. I haven't found anything on the viticulture sites.
> > Ken
>
> I think you mean two "shoots" per vine don't you.
>
> Someone may offer you other advice but if it were me, I would not prune
> until dormancy. The only time I green prune is when there is prolific
> growth that is shading grapes.

Ken, I wouldn't remove anything but new growth (green vines) until dormancy.
If you cut any of the brown vines you will cause excess "bleeding" and give
problems a place to enter the vine.

You can talk about this to 20 grape raisers and get 20 different answers. I
attended a pruning class put on by a University, and then went to a friends
house and he did it a lot different and produced an excess of grapes each
year. Pick out the way that most appeals to you and go with it.

My brother had one grape plant that had been allowed to grow approximately
4 - 5 meters both ways along a fence, with no pruning. It had been there
for about 15 years and produced some grapes, but not many. I pruned it for
him without cutting them any shorter the first year. The following year he
produced a record amount of grapes on one vine. The following year we cut
them some shorter, but did the required pruning on the existing vines and
they did very well again.

What I like to do is to allow two laterals to grow at one meter in height
(and attach them to a wire going in opposite directions - East and West is
best), and two more at 11/2 to 2 meters high, and stop the lateral growth at
about 1 1/2 to 2 meters long in each direction.

Then the laterals (cordons) produce branches (canes). The canes will then
grow and produce leaves and buds. Dont allow then to grow any closer than 6
to 8 CM apart.

Then during your pruning in February or early March, but before dormancy is
broke, prune the canes back leaving 2 buds on each. Then if the weather
cooperates and you dont have other problems, you will enjoy your grapes.

If you would like to send me your e-mail adress, I would be happy to try to
send you a copy of my final notes from the pruning class.

Dwayne







"Paul E. Lehmann" > wrote in message
...
> Ken Anderson wrote:
>
> > I have grape plants in their second year, and am ready to remove all
> > except
> > two vines per plant. Painful, but supposedly it will encourage the
growth
> > of
> > the remaining two vines. But does anyone know what to do about the
> > laterals
> > that are forming? It seems removing them would not be a good thing, but
I
> > don't know. I haven't found anything on the viticulture sites.
> > Ken
>
> I think you mean two "shoots" per vine don't you.
>
> Someone may offer you other advice but if it were me, I would not prune
> until dormancy. The only time I green prune is when there is prolific
> growth that is shading grapes.

> I would have pruned back
> to 2 buds in the spring but that's something you can think about for
> future vines.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
I was too damned afraid to do that. So I left about 4 to 6 buds per plant.
So that's what I'm dealing with now. I had some cane girdler damage, and now
a small amount of deer problems. I'm using Liquid Fence for that. I hate
seeing these set-backs.
Btw, just got my wires strung up yesterday, and am using those ratcheting
in-line wire tensioners. They are sweet!
Ken

> Ken, I wouldn't remove anything but new growth (green vines) until dormancy.
> If you cut any of the brown vines you will cause excess "bleeding" and give
> problems a place to enter the vine.
>
> You can talk about this to 20 grape raisers and get 20 different answers. I
> attended a pruning class put on by a University, and then went to a friends
> house and he did it a lot different and produced an excess of grapes each
> year. Pick out the way that most appeals to you and go with it.
>
> My brother had one grape plant that had been allowed to grow approximately
> 4 - 5 meters both ways along a fence, with no pruning. It had been there
> for about 15 years and produced some grapes, but not many. I pruned it for
> him without cutting them any shorter the first year. The following year he
> produced a record amount of grapes on one vine. The following year we cut
> them some shorter, but did the required pruning on the existing vines and
> they did very well again.
>
> What I like to do is to allow two laterals to grow at one meter in height
> (and attach them to a wire going in opposite directions - East and West is
> best), and two more at 11/2 to 2 meters high, and stop the lateral growth at
> about 1 1/2 to 2 meters long in each direction.
>
> Then the laterals (cordons) produce branches (canes). The canes will then
> grow and produce leaves and buds. Dont allow then to grow any closer than 6
> to 8 CM apart.
>
> Then during your pruning in February or early March, but before dormancy is
> broke, prune the canes back leaving 2 buds on each. Then if the weather
> cooperates and you dont have other problems, you will enjoy your grapes.
>
> If you would like to send me your e-mail adress, I would be happy to try to
> send you a copy of my final notes from the pruning class.
>
> Dwayne
>
>
Pruning the green wood seems to make sense.

I'm planning on using the training method that a nearby vineyard uses.
Check out "The Markko Trellis" on the left.
http://www.markko.com/

Dwayne, I'lI also send this direct. I would read any pruning notes you have,
if it's not too much bother. Thanks!
Ken

Ken,

What grapevines are you growing? What rootstock, if any, are they on?
What type of soil do you have? What's the PH? DO they get AT LEAST 8
hrs of sunlight? What is the vine spacing right now?


Bob

"Ken Anderson" > wrote in message >...
> > Ken, I wouldn't remove anything but new growth (green vines) until dormancy.
> > If you cut any of the brown vines you will cause excess "bleeding" and give
> > problems a place to enter the vine.
> >
> > You can talk about this to 20 grape raisers and get 20 different answers. I
> > attended a pruning class put on by a University, and then went to a friends
> > house and he did it a lot different and produced an excess of grapes each
> > year. Pick out the way that most appeals to you and go with it.
> >
> > My brother had one grape plant that had been allowed to grow approximately
> > 4 - 5 meters both ways along a fence, with no pruning. It had been there
> > for about 15 years and produced some grapes, but not many. I pruned it for
> > him without cutting them any shorter the first year. The following year he
> > produced a record amount of grapes on one vine. The following year we cut
> > them some shorter, but did the required pruning on the existing vines and
> > they did very well again.
> >
> > What I like to do is to allow two laterals to grow at one meter in height
> > (and attach them to a wire going in opposite directions - East and West is
> > best), and two more at 11/2 to 2 meters high, and stop the lateral growth at
> > about 1 1/2 to 2 meters long in each direction.
> >
> > Then the laterals (cordons) produce branches (canes). The canes will then
> > grow and produce leaves and buds. Dont allow then to grow any closer than 6
> > to 8 CM apart.
> >
> > Then during your pruning in February or early March, but before dormancy is
> > broke, prune the canes back leaving 2 buds on each. Then if the weather
> > cooperates and you dont have other problems, you will enjoy your grapes.
> >
> > If you would like to send me your e-mail adress, I would be happy to try to
> > send you a copy of my final notes from the pruning class.
> >
> > Dwayne
> >
> >
> Pruning the green wood seems to make sense.
>
> I'm planning on using the training method that a nearby vineyard uses.
> Check out "The Markko Trellis" on the left.
> http://www.markko.com/
>
> Dwayne, I'lI also send this direct. I would read any pruning notes you have,
> if it's not too much bother. Thanks!
> Ken

> Ken,
>
> What grapevines are you growing? What rootstock, if any, are they on?
> What type of soil do you have? What's the PH? DO they get AT LEAST 8
> hrs of sunlight? What is the vine spacing right now?
>
>
> Bob
>
>
Cab Franc on 3309
Chard on 101-14
Reisling on 3309

I don't know how the soil is described. It's only 8 - 10 inches deep, then
hits clay.
No idea on the pH.
I'd say they get 8 hours of sun. Wish I could knock down a tree or two
though.
My vines are 6 feet apart, 7 feet between the rows.

Ken,

I'm sure you'll have plenty of vigor with that clay beneath. Hopefully
the clay isn't to compact. Do you have drainage problems after heavy
rains? If so, be carefull not to let the vines over grow and crowd
the canopy. I would use the VSP if I were you. The trellis system you
showed might have to much foilage if the area is damp often. Better
get the spray program ready.


Bob

"Ken Anderson" > wrote in message >...
> > Ken,
> >
> > What grapevines are you growing? What rootstock, if any, are they on?
> > What type of soil do you have? What's the PH? DO they get AT LEAST 8
> > hrs of sunlight? What is the vine spacing right now?
> >
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> Cab Franc on 3309
> Chard on 101-14
> Reisling on 3309
>
> I don't know how the soil is described. It's only 8 - 10 inches deep, then
> hits clay.
> No idea on the pH.
> I'd say they get 8 hours of sun. Wish I could knock down a tree or two
> though.
> My vines are 6 feet apart, 7 feet between the rows.