I was just spraying all the fruit trees and vines in my yard this morning
and was wondering if anyone knows why the instructions and orchard owners
say it's best to spray before rain. Doesn't that defeat the purpose by
washing it all away?
Louise)
Otterburn Park, Quebec,
Canada

If the spray your using is a protectant like Captan ,Mancozeb, Sulfur
or bordeaux mixture the stuff needs to be there BEFORE it rains. It
prevents the fungus from starting. Mancozeb, for example, will not
kill an infection it only stops new ones so it needs to be on the leaf
prior to infection. It also spreads on the plant with rain. If your
using a systemic ( Nova) or Stroby ( Abound) there is "kick back"
depending on the stuff being used. BUT, It's ALWAYS better to have the
spray on the leaves before it rains no matter what.

Bob

or"Weez" > wrote in message >. ..
> I was just spraying all the fruit trees and vines in my yard this morning
> and was wondering if anyone knows why the instructions and orchard owners
> say it's best to spray before rain. Doesn't that defeat the purpose by
> washing it all away?
> Louise)
> Otterburn Park, Quebec,
> Canada

Don't know if this changes anything but here's what's in it:
Phosalone 4%
Ferbam 15%

Louise)

"bob" > wrote in message
om...
> If the spray your using is a protectant like Captan ,Mancozeb, Sulfur
> or bordeaux mixture the stuff needs to be there BEFORE it rains. It
> prevents the fungus from starting. Mancozeb, for example, will not
> kill an infection it only stops new ones so it needs to be on the leaf
> prior to infection. It also spreads on the plant with rain. If your
> using a systemic ( Nova) or Stroby ( Abound) there is "kick back"
> depending on the stuff being used. BUT, It's ALWAYS better to have the
> spray on the leaves before it rains no matter what.
>
> Bob
>
> or"Weez" > wrote in message
>. ..
> > I was just spraying all the fruit trees and vines in my yard this
morning
> > and was wondering if anyone knows why the instructions and orchard
owners
> > say it's best to spray before rain. Doesn't that defeat the purpose by
> > washing it all away?
> > Louise)
> > Otterburn Park, Quebec,
> > Canada

http://www.fao.org/ag/AGP/AGPP/Pesti.../94/phosal.pdf
http://www.fao.org/ag/AGP/AGPP/Pesti.../96/ferbam.pdf
Check these out

"Weez" > wrote in message
...
| I was just spraying all the fruit trees and vines in my yard this morning
| and was wondering if anyone knows why the instructions and orchard owners
| say it's best to spray before rain. Doesn't that defeat the purpose by
| washing it all away?
| Louise)
| Otterburn Park, Quebec,
| Canada
|
|

Theses are the ingredients in "Wilson's Fruit Tree Spray" I'm told by
orchard owners in my area that this stuff is considered extremely benign
compared to what they use so I wasn't worried when I bought it.
Can anyone suggest something else that will work. If I don't spray, my
"entire" crop will end up in the trash.
I live in an area where everyone has at least one apple tree in their yard
and we're completely surrounded by orchard so I have no choice but to spray
if I want to harvest something.
Louise )
Otterburn Park, Quebec
Canada

"Stephen SG" > wrote in message
...
> http://www.fao.org/ag/AGP/AGPP/Pesti.../94/phosal.pdf
> http://www.fao.org/ag/AGP/AGPP/Pesti.../96/ferbam.pdf
> Check these out
>
> "Weez" > wrote in message
> ...
> | I was just spraying all the fruit trees and vines in my yard this
morning
> | and was wondering if anyone knows why the instructions and orchard
owners
> | say it's best to spray before rain. Doesn't that defeat the purpose by
> | washing it all away?
> | Louise)
> | Otterburn Park, Quebec,
> | Canada
> |
> |
>
>

Louise wrote "I live in an area where everyone has at least one apple tree
in their yard
> and we're completely surrounded by orchard so I have no choice but to
spray
> if I want to harvest something."

Louise - In the States there is a government agricultural office in every
county and they are very good about providing information about spraying
schedules for apples as well as grapes and all other fruit and vegetables.
Perhaps there is a similar office in your area of Quebec. If not why not
spray what the commercial orchards spray?

Bill Frazier
Olathe, Kansas USA

Hi Bill,
I've already got a good schedule but the question is what should I use that
won't be too dangerous (whatever that means) We don't have access to what
the orchard use and none of the orchard owners are will to give up any of
their info or sprays.
Louise:O)

"William Frazier" > wrote in message
...
> Louise wrote "I live in an area where everyone has at least one apple tree
> in their yard
> > and we're completely surrounded by orchard so I have no choice but to
> spray
> > if I want to harvest something."
>
> Louise - In the States there is a government agricultural office in every
> county and they are very good about providing information about spraying
> schedules for apples as well as grapes and all other fruit and vegetables.
> Perhaps there is a similar office in your area of Quebec. If not why not
> spray what the commercial orchards spray?
>
> Bill Frazier
> Olathe, Kansas USA
>
>

I emptied my 12 volt sprayer of broadleaf weedkiller, then put in Mancozeb. I
sprayed on the ground until I was sure the yellow Manc was coming out, then
proceeded to spray my grape vines. Damned if the first vine or two didn't get
damaged. I'm dumbfounded that there was enough weedkiller residue left in
there to do this. Hopefully, they'll recover. So, I pass my experience
along. A word to the wise.
Ken

Ken Anderson wrote:

> I emptied my 12 volt sprayer of broadleaf weedkiller, then put in Mancozeb. I
> sprayed on the ground until I was sure the yellow Manc was coming out, then
> proceeded to spray my grape vines. Damned if the first vine or two didn't get
> damaged. I'm dumbfounded that there was enough weedkiller residue left in
> there to do this. Hopefully, they'll recover. So, I pass my experience
> along. A word to the wise.
> Ken
>
>
Ken,

Thanks for the reminder. I'm in exactly the same boat, with my 2nd shot
of Mancozeb in a few days. However, after the weedkiller I rinsed the
sprayer several times & sprayed it thru too. It's been airing out for a
few days now to rid the tank of the odor, which I figure can't be good
for vines either. Maybe I should run some soapy water thru too? What
was the weedkiller? 2,4-D?

--


Mike MTM, Cokesbury, New Jersey, USA

"MikeMTM" > wrote in message
s.com...
> Ken Anderson wrote:
>
> > I emptied my 12 volt sprayer of broadleaf weedkiller, then put in
Mancozeb. I
> > sprayed on the ground until I was sure the yellow Manc was coming out,
then
> > proceeded to spray my grape vines. Damned if the first vine or two didn't
get
> > damaged. I'm dumbfounded that there was enough weedkiller residue left in
> > there to do this. Hopefully, they'll recover. So, I pass my experience
> > along. A word to the wise.
> > Ken
> >
> >
> Ken,
>
> Thanks for the reminder. I'm in exactly the same boat, with my 2nd shot
> of Mancozeb in a few days. However, after the weedkiller I rinsed the
> sprayer several times & sprayed it thru too. It's been airing out for a
> few days now to rid the tank of the odor, which I figure can't be good
> for vines either. Maybe I should run some soapy water thru too? What
> was the weedkiller? 2,4-D?
>
>
2,4-D is one of four active ingredients in this stuff. It's Bayer All-in-One
Weed Killer for Lawns. Got it at Lowe's.

"Ken Anderson" > wrote in message >...
> I emptied my 12 volt sprayer of broadleaf weedkiller, then put in Mancozeb. I
> sprayed on the ground until I was sure the yellow Manc was coming out, then
> proceeded to spray my grape vines. Damned if the first vine or two didn't get
> damaged. I'm dumbfounded that there was enough weedkiller residue left in
> there to do this. Hopefully, they'll recover. So, I pass my experience
> along. A word to the wise.
> Ken

Triple rinse with water, including the hose. That's the law in the USA.

In article >, "Ken Anderson" > wrote:
>I emptied my 12 volt sprayer of broadleaf weedkiller, then put in Mancozeb. I
>sprayed on the ground until I was sure the yellow Manc was coming out, then
>proceeded to spray my grape vines. Damned if the first vine or two didn't get
>damaged. I'm dumbfounded that there was enough weedkiller residue left in
>there to do this. Hopefully, they'll recover. So, I pass my experience
>along. A word to the wise.
>Ken
>

That's why we use two different sprayers: one for herbicides, and one for
everything else (fungicides, dormant oil spray, insecticides, etc.).

>
> I emptied my 12 volt sprayer of broadleaf weedkiller, then put in
> Mancozeb. I
> sprayed on the ground until I was sure the yellow Manc was coming out,
> then
> proceeded to spray my grape vines. Damned if the first vine or two didn't
> get damaged.

I was told to always have two sprayers, one for herbicides and one for
pesticides/fertilizers, because it's difficult to completely rinse the
herbicide residue. Using pump garden sprayers, it's not too expensive
to have two.

Andy

Louise wrote "> I've already got a good schedule but the question is what
should I use that
> won't be too dangerous (whatever that means) We don't have access to what
> the orchard use and none of the orchard owners are will to give up any of
> their info or sprays."

If there are orchards in your area there must be stores where they buy their
spraying chemicals. These chemicals come in large packages for use in a
commercial orchard and there's some expense involved. But if you keep the
packages tightly sealed and in a dry, cool area they should retain their
activity for more than a year. In my area several of us who have hobby
vineyards split large orders of chemicals, corks, special yeasts. Perhaps
you could do the same.

I have no idea what is recommended for trees and vines in your area but here
in the Kansas City area I spray Mancozeb & Nova. Closer to harvest I switch
to Captan & Nova. I add Thiodan to the spray for my fruit trees. Also
included is Sevin or Imidan for insects as needed. I have no problems with
disease in the vineyard nor the orchard.

Bill Frazier
Olathe, Kansas USA

"JEP" > wrote in message
om...
>
>
> I was told to always have two sprayers, one for herbicides and one for
> pesticides/fertilizers, because it's difficult to completely rinse the
> herbicide residue. Using pump garden sprayers, it's not too expensive
> to have two.
>
>
I'm using a 15 gallon 12 volt sprayer. About $100 at Tractor Supply, so I'll
have to go with the thorough rinse regimen. I gotta add, I absolutely love
the sprayer. I mounted it to the back of my lawn tractor along with a toggle
switch, and can spray using the boom for weeds, or connect the wand for
spraying grape vines.
Ken

If you rinse 3 times like was previously suggested you should have no
problem. Also spray through the hose to make sure the stuff is rinsed
out of it also. NEVER use 2,4-D around grapevines. It's one of the
worst things you can do. I use Roundup at half the recommended WEAKEST
strength (iow, 1/2 THE DOSAGE RECOMMENDED FOR THE EASIEST TO KILL
WEEDS) and it seams to do well it just takes longer. Using Roundup
before bloom is "safer" because the vine PHYSIOLOGICALLY isn't flowing
down towards the roots yet. All the activity is flowing out to the
buds so the stuff isn't taken into the vine as readily. After bloom
I'd use a "knock down" for weeds NOT Roundup. If the vines are mature
( 3 years or older) you can use Preen (Trefuralin sp?) , known also as
simazine, to keep weeds from germinating (PRE-EMURGENT).

Bob

(Doug Miller) wrote in message y.com>...
> In article >, "Ken Anderson" > wrote:
> >I emptied my 12 volt sprayer of broadleaf weedkiller, then put in Mancozeb. I
> >sprayed on the ground until I was sure the yellow Manc was coming out, then
> >proceeded to spray my grape vines. Damned if the first vine or two didn't get
> >damaged. I'm dumbfounded that there was enough weedkiller residue left in
> >there to do this. Hopefully, they'll recover. So, I pass my experience
> >along. A word to the wise.
> >Ken
> >
>
> That's why we use two different sprayers: one for herbicides, and one for
> everything else (fungicides, dormant oil spray, insecticides, etc.).

wEEZ,

Mancozeb is available at any garden center in the states. It is safe
and does a good job on ALOT of different fungus.

Bob

"Weez" > wrote in message >. ..
> Hi Bill,
> I've already got a good schedule but the question is what should I use that
> won't be too dangerous (whatever that means) We don't have access to what
> the orchard use and none of the orchard owners are will to give up any of
> their info or sprays.
> Louise:O)
>
> "William Frazier" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Louise wrote "I live in an area where everyone has at least one apple tree
> > in their yard
> > > and we're completely surrounded by orchard so I have no choice but to
> spray
> > > if I want to harvest something."
> >
> > Louise - In the States there is a government agricultural office in every
> > county and they are very good about providing information about spraying
> > schedules for apples as well as grapes and all other fruit and vegetables.
> > Perhaps there is a similar office in your area of Quebec. If not why not
> > spray what the commercial orchards spray?
> >
> > Bill Frazier
> > Olathe, Kansas USA
> >
> >

I'll look for Mancozeb tomorrow but while I'm at it I'll look for an
insecticide, any suggestions for something relatively safe in that
department? Also can they be mixed and sprayed together or should this be
done separately?
I did end up emailing the Wilson site for their fruit tree spray and they
said to spray before rain and it becomes pretty water resistant as long as
it had time to dry before the rain comes down. Is it the same with Mancozeb?
Louise)

"bob" > wrote in message
om...
> wEEZ,
>
> Mancozeb is available at any garden center in the states. It is safe
> and does a good job on ALOT of different fungus.
>
> Bob
>
> "Weez" > wrote in message
>. ..
> > Hi Bill,
> > I've already got a good schedule but the question is what should I use
that
> > won't be too dangerous (whatever that means) We don't have access to
what
> > the orchard use and none of the orchard owners are will to give up any
of
> > their info or sprays.
> > Louise:O)
> >
> > "William Frazier" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > Louise wrote "I live in an area where everyone has at least one apple
tree
> > > in their yard
> > > > and we're completely surrounded by orchard so I have no choice but
to
> > spray
> > > > if I want to harvest something."
> > >
> > > Louise - In the States there is a government agricultural office in
every
> > > county and they are very good about providing information about
spraying
> > > schedules for apples as well as grapes and all other fruit and
vegetables.
> > > Perhaps there is a similar office in your area of Quebec. If not why
not
> > > spray what the commercial orchards spray?
> > >
> > > Bill Frazier
> > > Olathe, Kansas USA
> > >
> > >

Weez,

The Mancozeb I use doesn't need a spreader-sticker to keep it on.
Actually they advise against it because of the spreading action that
happens when it rains. Read the label. Some sprays are better if used
with a spreader-sticker. Spreader-stickers are chemicals that help the
spray stick and spread once on the leaf. Soap detergent sometimes is
used as a homeade one but they sell the stuff at all garden suppy
stores. As far as a safe insecticide, I guess it depends what you want
to do. One that is fairly safe but will kill all insects in it's path
is Carbaryl otherwise known as the trade name "Sevin". I only spray
that if I have a HUGE problem. There are ALOT of bugs you need to look
out for but the biggest problem I have is with Japanese beeteles on
grapes. There is stuff, even homeade remides, that attack only that
problem and leave the "good" bugs alone. As far as apples are
concerned, I have no idea what bugs you'd be looking for. You need to
do some research.


Bob

"Weez" > wrote in message >. ..
> I'll look for Mancozeb tomorrow but while I'm at it I'll look for an
> insecticide, any suggestions for something relatively safe in that
> department? Also can they be mixed and sprayed together or should this be
> done separately?
> I did end up emailing the Wilson site for their fruit tree spray and they
> said to spray before rain and it becomes pretty water resistant as long as
> it had time to dry before the rain comes down. Is it the same with Mancozeb?
> Louise)
>
> "bob" > wrote in message
> om...
> > wEEZ,
> >
> > Mancozeb is available at any garden center in the states. It is safe
> > and does a good job on ALOT of different fungus.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > "Weez" > wrote in message
> >. ..
> > > Hi Bill,
> > > I've already got a good schedule but the question is what should I use
> that
> > > won't be too dangerous (whatever that means) We don't have access to
> what
> > > the orchard use and none of the orchard owners are will to give up any
> of
> > > their info or sprays.
> > > Louise:O)
> > >
> > > "William Frazier" > wrote in message
> > > ...
> > > > Louise wrote "I live in an area where everyone has at least one apple
> tree
> > > > in their yard
> > > > > and we're completely surrounded by orchard so I have no choice but
> to
> spray
> > > > > if I want to harvest something."
> > > >
> > > > Louise - In the States there is a government agricultural office in
> every
> > > > county and they are very good about providing information about
> spraying
> > > > schedules for apples as well as grapes and all other fruit and
> vegetables.
> > > > Perhaps there is a similar office in your area of Quebec. If not why
> not
> > > > spray what the commercial orchards spray?
> > > >
> > > > Bill Frazier
> > > > Olathe, Kansas USA
> > > >
> > > >