For many cutting purposes a serrated knife performs better than a
smooth-edged blade. Think of the 'scratches' produced by a slighter
rougher stone as 'micro-serrations'.

In the same way as the points of a serrated knife have to be sharp for the
blade to cut efficiently, the points of the 'micro-serrations' have to be
sharp.

Finding the correct balance between the size of the 'micro'serrations' and
the sharpness of the serrations is the tricky bit.

Ken Lipworth


"Peter Aitken" > wrote in message
. com...
> I think it's important to note that sharpness for woodworking tools and
> sharpness for kitchen knives are not the same thing. Kitchen knives are,
> after all, just fine-toothed saws - you slice with them. Woodworking is
> different, as I understand it - there's usually no slicing involved, the
> blade must cut smoothly into the wood without any back and forth motion.
> Your chisels are, I am sure, much sharper in a technical sense than any
> kitchen knife but that kind of edge would not be an advantage in the
> kitchen. I found this out for myself when I first got my EdgePro system -
I
> spent an hour going up to some really high grit number and putting a
mirror
> edge on one of my knives but it did not cut better - and in fact not as
> well - as one sharpened to a 220 or 300 grit as was recommended.
>
> Remember, "sharp" is in relation to what you are cutting, and you can
> oversharpen a blade for certain tasks.
>
>
> --
> Peter Aitken
>
> Remove the crap from my email address before using.
>
>