Did you think the installation of the Allure III was finished? No such luck.



DH had installed the Allure III "twice" for a better fit and to make sure
our vent to the outside was correct, and they said to cut out/remove the
flap, which we did.



We talked and talked to Broan and sent pictures. They said that one of the
solutions could be that our Jenn-air was 1" out too far, so we decided to
install the new stove to see if it would come in closer to the wall than the
Jenn-Air did.



First this necessitated making the range slide-in space larger to slide in
the slide-in (DH sawed about ½ off the countertop cutout.) In the process
DH read "Before installing the range in an area covered with linoleum or any
other synthetic floor covering, make sure the floor covering can withstand
heat at least 90 degrees above room temperature without shrinking, warping,
or discoloring. Do not install the range over carpeting unless you place an
insulating pad or sheet of 1/4-inch thick plywood between the range and the
carpeting."



We were told by Home Depot that they recommend using cement board 1/4-inch
thick over our plywood. (which we are afraid using 1/4 -inch cement board
might bring the stove to high above countertop.) On the other hand, a
material of the thickness of a tile - perhaps - 1/8" would be the best
solution.



We were told by Armstrong that their vinyl tiles should not have any heat
above 85º coming in contact with their vinyl tiles. In the Sears service
data manual, it says that the warmer element that is on the base of the
stove below the drawer it has a 150º thermostat. It also has 3 settings, I
assume low-medium-high.



We were told by a reputable flooring dealer that she indeed had a Kenmore
with a warming oven with element (ours is 450w) and she uses (she calls it)
"linoleum" under her stove, which was installed by a Sears contractor.





One reputable hardware store suggested using Masonite over the plywood, and
then not use any vinyl. At any rate, these 1/4" and 1/8" and 3/8" all seem
pertinent.



Before anyone recommends Pargo/Pergo or ceramic or wood as a flooring
solution, I have decided on a flooring that is easy on my legs as I'm in the
kitchen long hours. Carpeting is definitely out for us. (We've had it
before.)



But, any and ALL suggestions or comments welcome.

Thanks so much.

Dee

On Wed, 20 Dec 2006 17:10:22 -0500, "Dee Randall" > wrote:

>Did you think the installation of the Allure III was finished? No such luck.

We hadn't heard anything for a while, so were hoping for the best.

>DH had installed the Allure III "twice" for a better fit and to make sure
>our vent to the outside was correct, and they said to cut out/remove the
>flap, which we did.

Which flap do you mean?

Oh, BTW, I forgot to post earlier: after you mentioned the tissue test, I tried
it, and our Allure III holds the tissue up against the right-hand filter at
setting 2 and up.

===============================

I've noticed that both of our most recent houses, which had vinyl kitchen floors
when we bought them, had the vinyl cut off so that it didn't run under the
stove. I guess that wasn't just laziness on the part of the flooring
installers. Both kitchens had bare plywood under the stove.

>We were told by Home Depot that they recommend using cement board 1/4-inch
>thick over our plywood. (which we are afraid using 1/4 -inch cement board
>might bring the stove to high above countertop.) On the other hand, a
>material of the thickness of a tile - perhaps - 1/8" would be the best
>solution.

I guess if you *really* want to be safe, you could put a sheet of 1/16 stainless
steel down there. Broan sells pre-cut SS pieces the width of the hood which they
intend to be used as a backsplash on the wall (as in our kitchen picture), but
which would probably fit perfectly on the floor as well. Or I'm sure you could
easily get a local steel shop to cut a custom piece for not much money. It could
even be put on top of a thin piece of masonite if you needed to adjust the
height.

Our lower drawer goes to 450 deg F, and we've got it right on the bare plywood.
There was no special caution concerning flooring material in the GE installation
guide. Maybe I should be concerned...

>Before anyone recommends Pargo/Pergo or ceramic or wood as a flooring
>solution, I have decided on a flooring that is easy on my legs as I'm in the
>kitchen long hours.

Hmmm -- I know you don't want to hear this, but we find our new Alloc
(www.alloc.com; sort of like Pergo) floor pretty cushy. It has a layer of
cushioning built onto the bottom of the pieces, and the installer added another
layer of padding underneath. It is *much* softer than the vinyl we removed. And
Alloc is the only manufacturer we found which offers material that looks like
tile and stone, in addition to wood. We like it so much that we're going to use
another color of Alloc in the rec room (our next challenge).

Hope you get through all this! It wondeful when it's over and you actually get
to cook in your new kitchen.

-- Larry

"pltrgyst" > wrote in message
...
On Wed, 20 Dec 2006 17:10:22 -0500, "Dee Randall" >
wrote:\


Thanks a lot for: Regarding your suggestion of a piece of ss for under the
stove, DH bought a piece of Broan enameled blacksplash vs. ss. It fits
under the stove cutout pretty good. He bought the enameled as it was a
piece he negotiated for $5 vs. the ss price of approx $35.
*****
From another message:
Regarding vent installation:

and they said to cut out/remove the >>flap, which we did.
>
> Which flap do you mean?

http://tinypic.com/2zri3hz.jpg
or
http://tinypic.com:80/2zri3hz.jpg

This flap was interfering with the outside vent flap.
http://tinypic.com/2a963ps.jpg
You can see where we tried cutting the "tin," :-))) but then after that,
decided that the little black thingies at each end could be jiggled to pull
it out. The part can be reordered in toto if ever need be, Parts said.

>
> Oh, BTW, I forgot to post earlier: after you mentioned the tissue test, I
> tried
> it, and our Allure III holds the tissue up against the right-hand filter
> at
> setting 2 and up.

DH just finished the installation of the vent again with a couple of
questions: First, the tissue now 'will' hold up (barely) on the right-hand
filter side at setting 2. I do have a couple of questions for you, Larry.

He reset the lights in the socket because they were askew, but there still
seems to be *quite* a gap around both of them, but more air seems to be
flowing out of the right-hand-side light than the left. Are yours secure in
their sockets or is there a gap where they are not set in place, and do you
get air coming through them?

Secondly,
http://tinypic.com/49jtjrr.jpg
There is air flowing out of this vent back into the room. Since vented air
is supposed to go out the wall on the side of the house, and there is a
baffle that closes off the NON-DUCTED slots in the hood, we are wondering
WHY there is air still coming out of these slots back into the room. DH
doesn't think it is a lot compared to the air that is being directed outside
(it's pretty forceful standing outside) but it seems there shouldn't be
much of any air coming through these vents into the room. Do you have any
air-flow whatsoever coming back into the room through these vents?
**********
Re www.alloc.com - Actually there are two stores in our area. Thanks for
the information. I will be looking at the samples after the holidays and
big-time dental appointments :-(
***

Dee