What do you use to clean the topping hole area? Mine is getting pretty
dark, I don't want to ruin the wine an just don't know if this is an
issue or not. The barrel is pretty rough and has a lot of grain for
'stuff' to grow.


Should I be topping to just the base of the bung hole? I'm using a
rubber stopper to seal it and it just seems damp every topping, I'm
getting the stopper in tight as I can, I twist it in now and that seems
to seal well, it just seems wet. I rotate the barrel off center to
make sure it's a good seal.

Thanks,
Joe

"Joe Sallustio" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> What do you use to clean the topping hole area? Mine is getting pretty
> dark, I don't want to ruin the wine an just don't know if this is an
> issue or not. The barrel is pretty rough and has a lot of grain for
> 'stuff' to grow.

It's normal for the end grain that's visible at the bunghole to absorb more
color (from red wine) than the side of a stave. Wood is a good deal more
porous in that direction. That's why leaks often occur at the ends of
staves where there are no joints present.

If the area smells OK when you pop the bung, don't worry about it. If it
smells funny/musty, be sure your sulfite is OK in the wine itself, top the
barrel, and before replacing the bung dip the end of the bung into bisulfite
powder. When you then insert the bung that'll grind some of the powder into
the wood. Repeat if necessary until the area smells normal when you pull
the bung.

> Should I be topping to just the base of the bung hole? I'm using a
> rubber stopper to seal it

Silicone stoppers are the best for sealing barrels, but they don't come in
every size. Gum rubber is next best, but if they're in direct contact with
the wine they can impart a rubbery odor. That said, if topping with a
silicone stopper it's safe to fill to within a quarter inch of overflowing
before ramming and twisting the bung in. With gum stoppers you might want
to just barely leave a little air space - say 0.15" or so.

Another alternative is to wrap the business end of the bung with Saran Wrap
as a gasket. That'll keep the rubber odors away from the wine and is
capable of an airtight seal. (I don't think I'd recommend rolling the
barrel with wine in it though if using this method.) That trick also works
to keep SO2 gas from destroying silicone bungs in empty, gassed barrels. Be
sure to use Saran Wrap. It's thicker than the other brands, e.g. Glad Wrap.

and it just seems damp every topping, I'm
> getting the stopper in tight as I can, I twist it in now and that seems
> to seal well, it just seems wet.

A little dampness around the bung is not unusual - especially if you roll
your barrels. Also, smaller barrels will have greater pressure changes
within from temperature variations.

Tom S

Perfect.
Thanks.
Joe

Hi Joe,

TomS' reply is solid as always. Thought I'd add that a little
dissolved metabisulfite does wonders to a bung hole. I routinely hit
mine (once or twice a year is usually enough) to insure that little
nasties don't attempt to take hold in this area.

I also use solid silicon bungs for aging reds.... Boswell sells them
directly for as good a price as any. I top to the bottom of the bung
hole but don't bother with rolling the barrel over.

clyde


Joe Sallustio wrote:
> What do you use to clean the topping hole area? Mine is getting
pretty
> dark, I don't want to ruin the wine an just don't know if this is an
> issue or not. The barrel is pretty rough and has a lot of grain for
> 'stuff' to grow.
>
>
> Should I be topping to just the base of the bung hole? I'm using a
> rubber stopper to seal it and it just seems damp every topping, I'm
> getting the stopper in tight as I can, I twist it in now and that
seems
> to seal well, it just seems wet. I rotate the barrel off center to
> make sure it's a good seal.
>
> Thanks,
> Joe

Thanks Clyde,

I have found some #11's made of silicone but it looks like I need a #9.
I'll figure out if an 11 will fit, it might. This is a 5 gallon barrel
that was a gift so I better not ruin it... I'll do the sulfiting too.

Joe


wrote:
> Hi Joe,
>
> TomS' reply is solid as always. Thought I'd add that a little
> dissolved metabisulfite does wonders to a bung hole. I routinely hit
> mine (once or twice a year is usually enough) to insure that little
> nasties don't attempt to take hold in this area.
>
> I also use solid silicon bungs for aging reds.... Boswell sells them
> directly for as good a price as any. I top to the bottom of the bung
> hole but don't bother with rolling the barrel over.
>
> clyde
>
>
> Joe Sallustio wrote:
> > What do you use to clean the topping hole area? Mine is getting
> pretty
> > dark, I don't want to ruin the wine an just don't know if this is
an
> > issue or not. The barrel is pretty rough and has a lot of grain
for
> > 'stuff' to grow.
> >
> >
> > Should I be topping to just the base of the bung hole? I'm using a
> > rubber stopper to seal it and it just seems damp every topping, I'm
> > getting the stopper in tight as I can, I twist it in now and that
> seems
> > to seal well, it just seems wet. I rotate the barrel off center to
> > make sure it's a good seal.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Joe

> wrote in message
ups.com...
>
> I also use solid silicon bungs for aging reds.... Boswell sells them
> directly for as good a price as any. I top to the bottom of the bung
> hole but don't bother with rolling the barrel over.
>
When I age in carboy, I use a drilled stopper with an airlock. Why not use
that in a barrel? Assuming you don't want to rotate the barrel, what is the
advantage to using a solid plug in the hole?

Brian

"Brian Lundeen" > wrote in message
...
>
> When I age in carboy, I use a drilled stopper with an airlock. Why not use
> that in a barrel? Assuming you don't want to rotate the barrel, what is
> the
> advantage to using a solid plug in the hole?

The partial vacuum created in the barrel degasses the wine in situ.

I do use airlocks on barrels, but only until the ML finishes. Then I
sulfite, stir the lees, top up and bung tight.

Tom S