im in north texas, and have a 40 ft. grape vine, muscadine type i think.
makes me a neat 3 gal. batch.
the problem is im moveing this spring. and want to start this vine at the
new location. from seeds.
so- i have a vacume sealer, do i pick a bunch of ripe grapes now, vacume
seal them and freeze?
or just seal the seeds alone and freeze? or what?

thx
joe
in texas.

Joe,

Extract the seeds and dry them out. Then store them in the
refrigerator. Do not freeze them.

You will probably not get the same vine if you plant seeds. The
pollen that produced the fruit could have come from anywhere and any
kind of grape. If you want the same kind of vine, take cuttings.

Wait until the late winter (February) and take a few cuttings off the
vine. They should have 3-4 nodes (joints). Make sure you can tell
which way is "up" on them so they are not planted upside down. Wrap
the cuttings in moist (not dripping wet) paper towels or newspaper,
place inside a plastic bag, and store in the refrigerator. They will
keep for several months.

To do this right, they should be caloused, but if you don't know what
that is then forget it and just plant them in the ground in the
Spring. Plant them with only one node above ground. Keep the soil
moist but not soggy. Plant 4-5 (without calousing) to ensure you get
one that survives. Plant seeds only as a backup.

Jack Keller, The Winemaking Home Page
http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/

Joe,

Extract the seeds and dry them out. Then store them in the
refrigerator. Do not freeze them.

You will probably not get the same vine if you plant seeds. The
pollen that produced the fruit could have come from anywhere and any
kind of grape. If you want the same kind of vine, take cuttings.

Wait until the late winter (February) and take a few cuttings off the
vine. They should have 3-4 nodes (joints). Make sure you can tell
which way is "up" on them so they are not planted upside down. Wrap
the cuttings in moist (not dripping wet) paper towels or newspaper,
place inside a plastic bag, and store in the refrigerator. They will
keep for several months.

To do this right, they should be caloused, but if you don't know what
that is then forget it and just plant them in the ground in the
Spring. Plant them with only one node above ground. Keep the soil
moist but not soggy. Plant 4-5 (without calousing) to ensure you get
one that survives. Plant seeds only as a backup.

Jack Keller, The Winemaking Home Page
http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/

Jack's right about the seeds not following true to form from the
mother plant.

Problem with cuttings is that this is a muscadine grape which is hard
to propogate with dormat cuttings. I'd try a buch of cuttings (triple
the 4-5 cuttings recommended) or buy Lon Rombaugh's book and try a
green cutting propogation.

On 19 Aug 2004 07:48:19 -0700, (Jack Keller)
wrote:

>Joe,
>
>Extract the seeds and dry them out. Then store them in the
>refrigerator. Do not freeze them.
>
>You will probably not get the same vine if you plant seeds. The
>pollen that produced the fruit could have come from anywhere and any
>kind of grape. If you want the same kind of vine, take cuttings.
>
>Wait until the late winter (February) and take a few cuttings off the
>vine. They should have 3-4 nodes (joints). Make sure you can tell
>which way is "up" on them so they are not planted upside down. Wrap
>the cuttings in moist (not dripping wet) paper towels or newspaper,
>place inside a plastic bag, and store in the refrigerator. They will
>keep for several months.
>
>To do this right, they should be caloused, but if you don't know what
>that is then forget it and just plant them in the ground in the
>Spring. Plant them with only one node above ground. Keep the soil
>moist but not soggy. Plant 4-5 (without calousing) to ensure you get
>one that survives. Plant seeds only as a backup.
>
>Jack Keller, The Winemaking Home Page
>http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/

Jack's right about the seeds not following true to form from the
mother plant.

Problem with cuttings is that this is a muscadine grape which is hard
to propogate with dormat cuttings. I'd try a buch of cuttings (triple
the 4-5 cuttings recommended) or buy Lon Rombaugh's book and try a
green cutting propogation.

On 19 Aug 2004 07:48:19 -0700, (Jack Keller)
wrote:

>Joe,
>
>Extract the seeds and dry them out. Then store them in the
>refrigerator. Do not freeze them.
>
>You will probably not get the same vine if you plant seeds. The
>pollen that produced the fruit could have come from anywhere and any
>kind of grape. If you want the same kind of vine, take cuttings.
>
>Wait until the late winter (February) and take a few cuttings off the
>vine. They should have 3-4 nodes (joints). Make sure you can tell
>which way is "up" on them so they are not planted upside down. Wrap
>the cuttings in moist (not dripping wet) paper towels or newspaper,
>place inside a plastic bag, and store in the refrigerator. They will
>keep for several months.
>
>To do this right, they should be caloused, but if you don't know what
>that is then forget it and just plant them in the ground in the
>Spring. Plant them with only one node above ground. Keep the soil
>moist but not soggy. Plant 4-5 (without calousing) to ensure you get
>one that survives. Plant seeds only as a backup.
>
>Jack Keller, The Winemaking Home Page
>http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/

"res0f8mp" > wrote in message >.. .
> im in north texas, and have a 40 ft. grape vine, muscadine type i think.
> makes me a neat 3 gal. batch.
> the problem is im moveing this spring. and want to start this vine at the
> new location. from seeds.
> so- i have a vacume sealer, do i pick a bunch of ripe grapes now, vacume
> seal them and freeze?
> or just seal the seeds alone and freeze? or what?
>
> thx
> joe
> in texas.

I know the feeling of wanting to retain what you once had, but why not
look in to something better? Contact your local agricultural co-op
extension and find out what kind of vinifera vines would do good on
your new property, and this way elevate your experience with
winemaking?

SG Brix

"res0f8mp" > wrote in message >.. .
> im in north texas, and have a 40 ft. grape vine, muscadine type i think.
> makes me a neat 3 gal. batch.
> the problem is im moveing this spring. and want to start this vine at the
> new location. from seeds.
> so- i have a vacume sealer, do i pick a bunch of ripe grapes now, vacume
> seal them and freeze?
> or just seal the seeds alone and freeze? or what?
>
> thx
> joe
> in texas.

I know the feeling of wanting to retain what you once had, but why not
look in to something better? Contact your local agricultural co-op
extension and find out what kind of vinifera vines would do good on
your new property, and this way elevate your experience with
winemaking?

SG Brix

Jack,

I know nothing about muscadines but I have 2 suggestions about what
you said.

1. How about using rooting hormone to enhance root formation on the
cuttings.

2. If this is a wild vine I would be surprised if it didn't "layer"
itself a couple of times already. Couldn't he just dig up a couple of
the layered vines ( re-rooted portions of the vine) with LOTS of
roots and basically take a couple "plants" with him along with the
seeds and cuttings?

Bob


(Jack Keller) wrote in message . com>...
> Joe,
>
> Extract the seeds and dry them out. Then store them in the
> refrigerator. Do not freeze them.
>
> You will probably not get the same vine if you plant seeds. The
> pollen that produced the fruit could have come from anywhere and any
> kind of grape. If you want the same kind of vine, take cuttings.
>
> Wait until the late winter (February) and take a few cuttings off the
> vine. They should have 3-4 nodes (joints). Make sure you can tell
> which way is "up" on them so they are not planted upside down. Wrap
> the cuttings in moist (not dripping wet) paper towels or newspaper,
> place inside a plastic bag, and store in the refrigerator. They will
> keep for several months.
>
> To do this right, they should be caloused, but if you don't know what
> that is then forget it and just plant them in the ground in the
> Spring. Plant them with only one node above ground. Keep the soil
> moist but not soggy. Plant 4-5 (without calousing) to ensure you get
> one that survives. Plant seeds only as a backup.
>
> Jack Keller, The Winemaking Home Page
> http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/

Jack,

I know nothing about muscadines but I have 2 suggestions about what
you said.

1. How about using rooting hormone to enhance root formation on the
cuttings.

2. If this is a wild vine I would be surprised if it didn't "layer"
itself a couple of times already. Couldn't he just dig up a couple of
the layered vines ( re-rooted portions of the vine) with LOTS of
roots and basically take a couple "plants" with him along with the
seeds and cuttings?

Bob


(Jack Keller) wrote in message . com>...
> Joe,
>
> Extract the seeds and dry them out. Then store them in the
> refrigerator. Do not freeze them.
>
> You will probably not get the same vine if you plant seeds. The
> pollen that produced the fruit could have come from anywhere and any
> kind of grape. If you want the same kind of vine, take cuttings.
>
> Wait until the late winter (February) and take a few cuttings off the
> vine. They should have 3-4 nodes (joints). Make sure you can tell
> which way is "up" on them so they are not planted upside down. Wrap
> the cuttings in moist (not dripping wet) paper towels or newspaper,
> place inside a plastic bag, and store in the refrigerator. They will
> keep for several months.
>
> To do this right, they should be caloused, but if you don't know what
> that is then forget it and just plant them in the ground in the
> Spring. Plant them with only one node above ground. Keep the soil
> moist but not soggy. Plant 4-5 (without calousing) to ensure you get
> one that survives. Plant seeds only as a backup.
>
> Jack Keller, The Winemaking Home Page
> http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/

Jack,

I know nothing about muscadines but I have 2 suggestions about what
you said.

1. How about using rooting hormone to enhance root formation on the
cuttings.

2. If this is a wild vine I would be surprised if it didn't "layer"
itself a couple of times already. Couldn't he just dig up a couple of
the layered vines ( re-rooted portions of the vine) with LOTS of
roots and basically take a couple "plants" with him along with the
seeds and cuttings?

Bob


(Jack Keller) wrote in message . com>...
> Joe,
>
> Extract the seeds and dry them out. Then store them in the
> refrigerator. Do not freeze them.
>
> You will probably not get the same vine if you plant seeds. The
> pollen that produced the fruit could have come from anywhere and any
> kind of grape. If you want the same kind of vine, take cuttings.
>
> Wait until the late winter (February) and take a few cuttings off the
> vine. They should have 3-4 nodes (joints). Make sure you can tell
> which way is "up" on them so they are not planted upside down. Wrap
> the cuttings in moist (not dripping wet) paper towels or newspaper,
> place inside a plastic bag, and store in the refrigerator. They will
> keep for several months.
>
> To do this right, they should be caloused, but if you don't know what
> that is then forget it and just plant them in the ground in the
> Spring. Plant them with only one node above ground. Keep the soil
> moist but not soggy. Plant 4-5 (without calousing) to ensure you get
> one that survives. Plant seeds only as a backup.
>
> Jack Keller, The Winemaking Home Page
> http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/

Jack,

I know nothing about muscadines but I have 2 suggestions about what
you said.

1. How about using rooting hormone to enhance root formation on the
cuttings.

2. If this is a wild vine I would be surprised if it didn't "layer"
itself a couple of times already. Couldn't he just dig up a couple of
the layered vines ( re-rooted portions of the vine) with LOTS of
roots and basically take a couple "plants" with him along with the
seeds and cuttings?

Bob


(Jack Keller) wrote in message . com>...
> Joe,
>
> Extract the seeds and dry them out. Then store them in the
> refrigerator. Do not freeze them.
>
> You will probably not get the same vine if you plant seeds. The
> pollen that produced the fruit could have come from anywhere and any
> kind of grape. If you want the same kind of vine, take cuttings.
>
> Wait until the late winter (February) and take a few cuttings off the
> vine. They should have 3-4 nodes (joints). Make sure you can tell
> which way is "up" on them so they are not planted upside down. Wrap
> the cuttings in moist (not dripping wet) paper towels or newspaper,
> place inside a plastic bag, and store in the refrigerator. They will
> keep for several months.
>
> To do this right, they should be caloused, but if you don't know what
> that is then forget it and just plant them in the ground in the
> Spring. Plant them with only one node above ground. Keep the soil
> moist but not soggy. Plant 4-5 (without calousing) to ensure you get
> one that survives. Plant seeds only as a backup.
>
> Jack Keller, The Winemaking Home Page
> http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/

Bob,

I was really trying to keep it simple, but of course you are right on
both counts. Rooting harmone is such a natural part of the process
that I don't really think about it consciously. However, I am less
sure he will find lots of naturally layered rootings. I've found very
few, and I have looked at hundreds (thousands?) of wild muscadines....

Jack Keller, The Winemaking Home Page
http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/

Bob,

I was really trying to keep it simple, but of course you are right on
both counts. Rooting harmone is such a natural part of the process
that I don't really think about it consciously. However, I am less
sure he will find lots of naturally layered rootings. I've found very
few, and I have looked at hundreds (thousands?) of wild muscadines....

Jack Keller, The Winemaking Home Page
http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/

hummmm, good idea, when i planted this vine i had no idea i was going to be
a wine maker ten years down the road.
maybe ill look into a better grape type.
thx for all the well thought out input.
joe
n-texas
"sgbrix" > wrote in message
om...
> "res0f8mp" > wrote in message
>.. .
> > im in north texas, and have a 40 ft. grape vine, muscadine type i think.
> > makes me a neat 3 gal. batch.
> > the problem is im moveing this spring. and want to start this vine at
the
> > new location. from seeds.
> > so- i have a vacume sealer, do i pick a bunch of ripe grapes now,
vacume
> > seal them and freeze?
> > or just seal the seeds alone and freeze? or what?
> >
> > thx
> > joe
> > in texas.
>
> I know the feeling of wanting to retain what you once had, but why not
> look in to something better? Contact your local agricultural co-op
> extension and find out what kind of vinifera vines would do good on
> your new property, and this way elevate your experience with
> winemaking?
>
> SG Brix

hummmm, good idea, when i planted this vine i had no idea i was going to be
a wine maker ten years down the road.
maybe ill look into a better grape type.
thx for all the well thought out input.
joe
n-texas
"sgbrix" > wrote in message
om...
> "res0f8mp" > wrote in message
>.. .
> > im in north texas, and have a 40 ft. grape vine, muscadine type i think.
> > makes me a neat 3 gal. batch.
> > the problem is im moveing this spring. and want to start this vine at
the
> > new location. from seeds.
> > so- i have a vacume sealer, do i pick a bunch of ripe grapes now,
vacume
> > seal them and freeze?
> > or just seal the seeds alone and freeze? or what?
> >
> > thx
> > joe
> > in texas.
>
> I know the feeling of wanting to retain what you once had, but why not
> look in to something better? Contact your local agricultural co-op
> extension and find out what kind of vinifera vines would do good on
> your new property, and this way elevate your experience with
> winemaking?
>
> SG Brix

Contact your state agricultural agent. Texas has a good program to help
people like you.

Ray

"res0f8mp" > wrote in message
...
> im in north texas, and have a 40 ft. grape vine, muscadine type i think.
> makes me a neat 3 gal. batch.
> the problem is im moveing this spring. and want to start this vine at the
> new location. from seeds.
> so- i have a vacume sealer, do i pick a bunch of ripe grapes now,
vacume
> seal them and freeze?
> or just seal the seeds alone and freeze? or what?
>
> thx
> joe
> in texas.
>
>
>

Contact your state agricultural agent. Texas has a good program to help
people like you.

Ray

"res0f8mp" > wrote in message
...
> im in north texas, and have a 40 ft. grape vine, muscadine type i think.
> makes me a neat 3 gal. batch.
> the problem is im moveing this spring. and want to start this vine at the
> new location. from seeds.
> so- i have a vacume sealer, do i pick a bunch of ripe grapes now,
vacume
> seal them and freeze?
> or just seal the seeds alone and freeze? or what?
>
> thx
> joe
> in texas.
>
>
>

Contact your state agricultural agent. Texas has a good program to help
people like you.

Ray

"res0f8mp" > wrote in message
...
> im in north texas, and have a 40 ft. grape vine, muscadine type i think.
> makes me a neat 3 gal. batch.
> the problem is im moveing this spring. and want to start this vine at the
> new location. from seeds.
> so- i have a vacume sealer, do i pick a bunch of ripe grapes now,
vacume
> seal them and freeze?
> or just seal the seeds alone and freeze? or what?
>
> thx
> joe
> in texas.
>
>
>