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Winemaking (rec.crafts.winemaking) Discussion of the process, recipes, tips, techniques and general exchange of lore on the process, methods and history of wine making. Includes traditional grape wines, sparkling wines & champagnes. |
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I pressed my own cider this weekend
I add 50ppm/gal of meta yesterday I also made yeast starters Now it is time to add the yeast and the nutrient. I have an acid test kit. I also have some acid blend if I need it. Is it worth the time to check the acid of the apple juice? What should I be looking for? I pressed a variety of apples, but I was not able to find the cider type, with higher acid. So I am worried it will be low. I am looking to make an english style cider, 5% like beer. |
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"Pete" > wrote:
> I pressed my own cider this weekend > I add 50ppm/gal of meta yesterday > I also made yeast starters > Now it is time to add the yeast and the nutrient. > I have an acid test kit. I also have some acid blend if I need it. > Is it worth the time to check the acid of the apple juice? YES! > What should I be looking for? 0.7%TA > I pressed a variety of apples, but I was not able to find the cider > type, with higher acid. So I am worried it will be low. If you put some Granny Smiths (25-50%) or crab apples (10%) in there, you should be fairly close. Otherwise you will have to add acid and tannin. Are you just fermenting juice, or are you fermenting on the skins? If juice alone, you will definitely need to add tannin. Best way is through oaking in the primary. Strong tea (about 1/4 cup brewed tea per gallon) will also work. > I am looking to make an english style cider, 5% like beer. Look for a starting SG of 1.035-1.040. (Add sugar or water to increase/decrease the SG to reach the target.) That will give you ~5% abv. But real English cider (like wot you get in Somerset) is closer to 9% --- like the beer in the north. Real cider apples (e.g. Kingston Blacks, Berthecourts, Baldwin, Staymans, Cathahm) have a brix of 14-16. Some grannies have a brix of 17, TA of 0.7 and tannin of 0.3. Fifty per cent of those, and fifty percent of anything else yields a fine scrump. Arrr. |
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My OG was 1.050
I think this should be ok I will be doing an acid test tonight. I still have some oak chips also, but not enough for all 10 gallons. Should I buy more chips, or buy some tannin? If it matters I pressed 200lbs of apples, and 10 lbs of grapes ![]() Negodki wrote: > "Pete" > wrote: > > >>I pressed my own cider this weekend >>I add 50ppm/gal of meta yesterday >>I also made yeast starters >>Now it is time to add the yeast and the nutrient. >>I have an acid test kit. I also have some acid blend if I need it. >>Is it worth the time to check the acid of the apple juice? > > > YES! > > >>What should I be looking for? > > > 0.7%TA > > >>I pressed a variety of apples, but I was not able to find the cider >>type, with higher acid. So I am worried it will be low. > > > If you put some Granny Smiths (25-50%) or crab apples (10%) in there, you > should be fairly close. Otherwise you will have to add acid and tannin. Are > you just fermenting juice, or are you fermenting on the skins? If juice > alone, you will definitely need to add tannin. Best way is through oaking in > the primary. Strong tea (about 1/4 cup brewed tea per gallon) will also > work. > > >>I am looking to make an english style cider, 5% like beer. > > > Look for a starting SG of 1.035-1.040. (Add sugar or water to > increase/decrease the SG to reach the target.) That will give you ~5% abv. > But real English cider (like wot you get in Somerset) is closer to 9% --- > like the beer in the north. Real cider apples (e.g. Kingston Blacks, > Berthecourts, Baldwin, Staymans, Cathahm) have a brix of 14-16. Some > grannies have a brix of 17, TA of 0.7 and tannin of 0.3. Fifty per cent of > those, and fifty percent of anything else yields a fine scrump. Arrr. > > > |
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"Pete" > wrote:
> My OG was 1.050 > I think this should be ok It should be fine. More (alcohol) is always better. ![]() later, if it's too strong to drink. ![]() > I still have some oak chips also, but not enough for all 10 gallons. > Should I buy more chips, or buy some tannin? I would recommend oak chips. Not only will they supply the tannin you (probably) need, but they will supply that barrel-aged flavour most people enjoy. 10-19 grams per gallon, left in until the cider tastes slightly more tannic than you want it to be (some of it will dissappear with aging). The tannin will also help the cider clear "naturally". > If it matters I pressed 200lbs of apples, and 10 lbs of grapes ![]() That's discrimination! Go out and get yourself another 180 lbs of grapes. ![]() |
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I have 70grams of oak
2 5 gal batches I can split it now and add 7grams per gallon for each batch. I just dumped the yeast. If I order more, it will be a almost a week. I can always add more to the secondary. Negodki wrote: > "Pete" > wrote: > > >>My OG was 1.050 >>I think this should be ok > > > It should be fine. More (alcohol) is always better. ![]() > later, if it's too strong to drink. ![]() > > >>I still have some oak chips also, but not enough for all 10 gallons. >>Should I buy more chips, or buy some tannin? > > > I would recommend oak chips. Not only will they supply the tannin you > (probably) need, but they will supply that barrel-aged flavour most people > enjoy. 10-19 grams per gallon, left in until the cider tastes slightly more > tannic than you want it to be (some of it will dissappear with aging). The > tannin will also help the cider clear "naturally". > > >>If it matters I pressed 200lbs of apples, and 10 lbs of grapes ![]() > > > That's discrimination! Go out and get yourself another 180 lbs of grapes. > ![]() > > |
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"Pete" > wrote:
> I have 70grams of oak > 2 5 gal batches > > I can split it now and add 7grams per gallon for each batch. > I just dumped the yeast. > > If I order more, it will be a almost a week. > > I can always add more to the secondary. Yeah, go ahead and split it now. You can either add more to the secondary, or leave it in longer. The former is preferable, because the tannin will help the wine clear by itself. I generally DON'T add the oak until I move to a secondary, and then it stays for 2 months. That seems to work for me as well as adding it to the primary. If you put it in a some sort of nylon bag, you can transfer it from primary to secondary much more easily, than if you just spoon it in. |
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I took an acid reading
This was much easier then my red wine. I got 2.10*.25 = .525 This doesn't seem good. I have some acid blend. How do I figure how much to add per gallon to raise it. Negodki wrote: > "Pete" > wrote: > > >>I pressed my own cider this weekend >>I add 50ppm/gal of meta yesterday >>I also made yeast starters >>Now it is time to add the yeast and the nutrient. >>I have an acid test kit. I also have some acid blend if I need it. >>Is it worth the time to check the acid of the apple juice? > > > YES! > > >>What should I be looking for? > > > 0.7%TA > > >>I pressed a variety of apples, but I was not able to find the cider >>type, with higher acid. So I am worried it will be low. > > > If you put some Granny Smiths (25-50%) or crab apples (10%) in there, you > should be fairly close. Otherwise you will have to add acid and tannin. Are > you just fermenting juice, or are you fermenting on the skins? If juice > alone, you will definitely need to add tannin. Best way is through oaking in > the primary. Strong tea (about 1/4 cup brewed tea per gallon) will also > work. > > >>I am looking to make an english style cider, 5% like beer. > > > Look for a starting SG of 1.035-1.040. (Add sugar or water to > increase/decrease the SG to reach the target.) That will give you ~5% abv. > But real English cider (like wot you get in Somerset) is closer to 9% --- > like the beer in the north. Real cider apples (e.g. Kingston Blacks, > Berthecourts, Baldwin, Staymans, Cathahm) have a brix of 14-16. Some > grannies have a brix of 17, TA of 0.7 and tannin of 0.3. Fifty per cent of > those, and fifty percent of anything else yields a fine scrump. Arrr. > > > |
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"Pete" > wrote:
> I took an acid reading > This was much easier then my red wine. > > I got 2.10*.25 = .525 > > This doesn't seem good. Not "good", but not unexpected. Different types of apples range from (and average of) .20 to 1.3. What kind(s) did you use? > I have some acid blend. > How do I figure how much to add per gallon to raise it. If your acid blend says 1 tsp per gallon = .15 increase in TA, then Teaspoons to add = (target TA - measured TA) / .15 x gallons of must. If your acid blend says 1 tsp per gallon = .12 increase in TA, then Teaspoons to add = (target TA - measured TA) / .12 x gallons of must. If it doesn't say either, it is safest to use the first formula, which will result in a smaller addition. Assuming you agree with my target of 0.7%: (0.7 - .525) / .15 = 1.167 x gallons of must or (0.7 - .525) / .12 = 1.167 x gallons of must If your acid blend says so many grams per gallon (rather than teaspoons), use the same formula, but substitute the grams-per-gallon for the teaspoons-per-gallon figure, and weigh the blend, rather than spoon it. Or, add acid to a few samples, until you get the taste you prefer, and then add the same ratio of acid to must as in that sample. |
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My blend doesn't say anything
I bought it from www.homebrew.com There website doesn't say anything either. Looks like 5.85 teaspons per carboy I will add this tonight I guess I should take another reading tommorow? I already added the oak. Negodki wrote: > "Pete" > wrote: > > >>I took an acid reading >>This was much easier then my red wine. >> >>I got 2.10*.25 = .525 >> >>This doesn't seem good. > > > Not "good", but not unexpected. Different types of apples range from (and > average of) .20 to 1.3. What kind(s) did you use? > > >>I have some acid blend. >>How do I figure how much to add per gallon to raise it. > > > If your acid blend says 1 tsp per gallon = .15 increase in TA, then > Teaspoons to add = (target TA - measured TA) / .15 x gallons of must. > > If your acid blend says 1 tsp per gallon = .12 increase in TA, then > Teaspoons to add = (target TA - measured TA) / .12 x gallons of must. > > If it doesn't say either, it is safest to use the first formula, which will > result in a smaller addition. > > Assuming you agree with my target of 0.7%: > (0.7 - .525) / .15 = 1.167 x gallons of must > or (0.7 - .525) / .12 = 1.167 x gallons of must > > If your acid blend says so many grams per gallon (rather than teaspoons), > use the same formula, but substitute the grams-per-gallon for the > teaspoons-per-gallon figure, and weigh the blend, rather than spoon it. > > Or, add acid to a few samples, until you get the taste you prefer, and then > add the same ratio of acid to must as in that sample. > > |
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"Pete" > wrote:
> My blend doesn't say anything > I bought it from www.homebrew.com > There website doesn't say anything either. Assume .15 then. > Looks like 5.85 teaspons per carboy Or six. ;-) > I will add this tonight > I guess I should take another reading tomorow? If you plan to take another reading, why not add 1/2 the acid now, and see how that affects the measurement. Then you will know if your calculations are good, and whether the acid is .12 or .15 tsps per gallon. (The difference will be whether or not it is powder or granules, and the percentages of each acid in the blend). And you won't add to much if there is a (small) mistake in your calculations. You can take the second reading after you've stirred the acid into the must. You don't have to wait until tomorrow. > |
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![]() Pete wrote "I have some acid blend. > How do I figure how much to add per gallon to raise it." Pete - If you have a scale to measure the acid blend add 3.8 grams acid blend to each gallon to raise the %TA by 0.1%. Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas |
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