Over a period of time my bubble-shaped airlocks get gunky even if i keep
a little lid on them. Can anyone suggest a way please that i can clean
them both inside and out.

Thank you
Sharon.

On Aug 11, 11:33 am, Sharon KImble > wrote:
> Over a period of time my bubble-shaped airlocks get gunky even if i keep
> a little lid on them. Can anyone suggest a way please that i can clean
> them both inside and out.
>
> Thank you
> Sharon.

Soak them in a dilute solution of bleach and water. 10% bleach to 90%
water will remove anything that grows.

Put one of your stoppers on, turn the water on slow on your faucet and
squeeze the stopper up against the bottom of the faucet if something
inside needs dislodged. You can pretty much blow anything in them out
with the jet it creates.

Joe

On Aug 11, 8:33 am, Sharon KImble > wrote:
> Over a period of time my bubble-shaped airlocks get gunky even if i keep
> a little lid on them. Can anyone suggest a way please that i can clean
> them both inside and out.
>
> Thank you
> Sharon.

I salute your economical nature. I threw them away and switched to
three-part models

> I salute your economical nature. I threw them away and switched to
> three-part models

They have advantages and disadvantages. They dry out faster than
either 'bubble' airlock. The 3 bubble seems to keep water for 1/2
year, the single bubble about 1/2 that.

The 3 part ones are shorter and have a better finish going into the
stopper too so I use them too.

I always scrape off the excess sprue on the bubble airlocks; you get a
pretty pronounced mold line that can let air in if you don't scrape it
off.

Details...

Joe

On Aug 13, 9:16 am, Joe Sallustio > wrote:
> > I salute your economical nature. I threw them away and switched to
> > three-part models
>
> They have advantages and disadvantages. They dry out faster than
> either 'bubble' airlock. The 3 bubble seems to keep water for 1/2
> year, the single bubble about 1/2 that.
>
> The 3 part ones are shorter and have a better finish going into the
> stopper too so I use them too.
>
> I always scrape off the excess sprue on the bubble airlocks; you get a
> pretty pronounced mold line that can let air in if you don't scrape it
> off.
>
> Details...
>
> Joe

Details are the big difference, Joe! We learners rely on guys and gals
like yourself to coach us!

Jim and I were discussing that without exception all currently
available winemaking books lack these details.

Sean

> I always scrape off the excess sprue on the bubble airlocks; you get a
> pretty pronounced mold line that can let air in if you don't scrape it
> off.

I know a lot of people use sulfite solution for airlock. I am
assuming that when the posters are saying water, they mean sulfite.
Grain alcohol works well too and you do have to worry so much about
the sufite needing to be "freshened up".

m

On Aug 13, 5:43 pm, wrote:
>
> I know a lot of people use sulfite solution for airlock. I am
> assuming that when the posters are saying water, they mean sulfite.
> Grain alcohol works well too and you do have to worry so much about
> the sufite needing to be "freshened up".
>
> m

Not necessarily. I use only water and haven't had any problems. What's
the point of sulfite in the airlock - wouldn't it all just react
pretty quickly with the air oxygen?

Pp

On Aug 14, 9:25 am, pp > wrote:
> On Aug 13, 5:43 pm, wrote:
> > I know a lot of people use sulfite solution for airlock. I am
> > assuming that when the posters are saying water, they mean sulfite.

> Not necessarily. I use only water and haven't had any problems. What's
> the point of sulfite in the airlock - wouldn't it all just react
> pretty quickly with the air oxygen?

"quickly" is a relative term and also depends on the strength of your
metabisulfite solution. enough 375g/gal to fill an S lock is going to
last a week or two (your nose will certainly tell you it is) easily.
More importantly, it'll kill bacteria in fairly short order. a quick
spritz of even 28g/gal solution into the top of the trap will keep
things from growing in there.

I've never had a problem using plain water during fermentation,
either. Not even for a very slow rose for a couple months at a time,
though when taking readings I usually rinse and refill. a little SO2
solution for cleaning seems sufficient. I just drip some in, work it
by rotating the trap in my hands until it gets all over the inside,
then force it back out with water from the spout (or a hose), leave it
and any other parts similarly cleaned in a clean bucket to dry a bit,
then store them as needed. Another quick SO2 and rinse just before
using again.

I prefer the 1-piece S lock over the 3 piece locks, mostly because
parts tend to separate from season to season, and 1 piece means it
always has all the pieces to work.

In regards to the other idea, I wouldn't use chlorine bleach at all,
too easy for that to lead to TCA.

If you want to leave things soaking when not in use for a while, an
iodine solution like BTM in a bucket works well to just keep around
for crush season.