Just returned from a very pleasant interlude in Durango CO. (Yes, I
rode the train.) Had a several excellent meals, including two nights
at Ariana's Italian which may boast the best veal scallopine
presentations west of NYC, a tour of Asian-eclectic/American
traditional at Ken & Sue's (imagine meatload, maple-mustard glazed NY
strip, nori-wrapped lobster/avocado rolls, and a variety of soy,
lemon-grass, wasabi-enhanced, Szechuan/Hunan/Mandarin concoctions.)

The big night was a French shot at Chez Grandmere--a delightful small
house near the train depot, decorated in country French and offering
some very traditional French cuisine executed perfectly (if a bit
overly salted.)

The wine list at Grandmere got them a WS Award of Excellence, probably
because of the availability of things like a DRC 1985 burg at
$5975/bottle!

There were a number of great Bordeaux offerings and I'm not one to
pass up an opporunity to explore. With duck breast and
lingonberry/red-wine reduction for me and "rack" of lamb (actually two
chops) with port-wine sauce for SWMBO, a bordeaux seemed reasonable.
The waiter (who was otherwise incredibly competent and knowledgeable)
provided little assistance when I asked for advice in choosing between
a '99 Baron Pichon-Longuiville and a '00 Chateau Lascombes which were
in my price range and separated by $10.

He went to the chef/owner and returned pronouncing the Lascombes as
definitely superior due to the vintage. I didn't get to meet or talk
to the recommendor. (I'm sure Ian, Dale, Michael and others will agree
that is a faux pas.)

The wine was nice (applying the adjective as an underwhelming
comment), but I simply don't get the value of the French over a
California cab. There was a nice color, a pleasant nose and a warm,
but not huge dark berry flavor. A bit of tannin pucker on the finish,
but not a harshness of immaturity. It wasn't an unpleasant wine, by a
long shot, but it simply didn't impress as something remarkable or
memorable. A '00 Cakebread Cellars cab that I'd had a couple of months
before for $40/bottle less was much more impressive, as was a Shaffer
cab that I'd enjoyed in June.

What am I missing or is it simply a question of the Bordeaux needing a
lot more years before it really begins to display something?


Ed Rasimus
Fighter Pilot (USAF-Ret)
"When Thunder Rolled"
"Phantom Flights, Bangkok Nights"
Both from Smithsonian Books
***www.thunderchief.org