Our friend Oswaldo moved back to Brazil, but periodically returns to
NY. We were invited a small dinner in his honor Friday. A very pleasant
night at a beautiful brownstone in Park Slope. When we arrived, Roger
the host offered up a glass of the 2000 Gilles Robin Crozes-Hermitage.
Beefy Crozes, with good sweet blackberry fruit accented by earth and a
little grilled meat. Still a bit tannic, but the ripe fruit makes it
pretty pleasant, though it could age a bit. Very nice, B+

After some fun conversation, we moved to the dining room. Roger and
Frida took turns with the courses - she did a starter of a portobello
cap filled with spiced tomato, pine nuts, and chevre. Roger did a main
course of braised beef with fennel and potatoes.. Then followed a
cheese course and an apple tart dessert. Everything was splendid. Red
Burgundy flowed throughout the evening:

1996 Jean-Jacques Confuron "Les Fleurières " Nuits St. Georges
I believe this was a lieu-dit, not a 1er, but could be wrong. Ready and
willing from the get-go, ripe blackcherry and black plum fruit, a hint
of spice and vanilla. Tasty bottle of Burg that drank well over
extended dinner. B+/B

1996 Lecheneaut Chambolle-Musigny
At first I found this tight and ungiving, with only a bit of oak really
standing out -the rest of the aromatics seemed subdued. I far preferred
its NSG flightmate, but when I revisited after a while I found a much
more expressive wine. The oak notes seemed integrated, and rich cherry
fruit accented by grenadine was singing. Good acidity, good length,
some very Chambolle floral notes. B- for first glass, B+/A- later on.

1996 Bertagna Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru
I wasn't taking notes at table, I'm pretty sure this was Beaux-Monts,
but neglected to write down. My least favorite wine of the night, it
seemed somewhat pedestrian, just dark fruit without a lot of depth and
concentration, and rather acidic. I know some '96s are closed, but this
had been open for a while, and I wouldn't go looking for this. B-

1992 Domaine Leflaive "Sous le Dos D'Ane"Blagny 1er Cru (Rouge)
Some rather apparent (but pleasant to me) barnyard aromas. At first the
barnyard dominated, and there was a slightly green note; Roger wondered
if its best years had passed. But air did its work, and a rather lovely
(though rustic) Pinot Noir emerged. Black cherry and kirsch surrounded
by earth and mushrooms. Not especially long, but quite fun. Very good
showing for an appelation one doesn't see much. A-/B+

After dinner we retired to the den, and sampled a 375 of the 1997
Niepoort Vintage Port. My palate and brain were both coasting by this
point, but my memories are a young tannic port with flavors of
chocolate covered strawberries and citrus zest. A foggy A-

It was really late by time we headed out (Betsy driving!) but we were
quite sated. Good food, good wine, good conversation (of art,
journalism, parenting, and more). Roger is a former Times editor and
current IHT columnist, and we had some interesting conversation re
Johnny Apple, who we discussed here a bit ago. Fun night.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.