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Tea (rec.drink.tea) Discussion relating to tea, the world's second most consumed beverage (after water), made by infusing or boiling the leaves of the tea plant (C. sinensis or close relatives) in water. |
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Experimental Pu'ers
I recently had the pleasure of spending an afternoon drinking tea and
talking with a friend who knows a lot about the Pu'er industry. (Sorry, he doesn't want to be identified.) He brought along a non-compressed tea whose leaves were loosely twisted and showed the occasional silvery tip. He didn't want to say anything about it until I'd tasted it. (To the extent that this was a test, I failed, as I really couldn't figure out what it was.) It had something in common with a tippy Dian Hong (Yunnan red/black), especially in the dry leaf aroma. When brewed, it reminded me at once of white tea and some of the more delicate Chinese red teas. Its aroma seemed better than its mouth feel. After three steeps, it was pretty much played out. My friend then disclosed what it was: essentially a Pu'er oolong. The tea's maker had taken sun-dried maocha and subjected it to the bruising and oxidation normal for oolong. As far as I know, this tea hasn't been sold, perhaps because its maker wasn't satisfied with it. I was glad to have drunk it, and if this was an experiment, I hope it will be pursued. That afternoon, I found out something about a shu Pu'er that I love (my friend is much less enthusiastic): the 2003 Wu Liang Mountain tea from Fu Cha Ju (sometimes mis-romanized as Fo Cha Ji.) It's unusually fruity - I could swear I taste quince - and has other interesting layers, too. My friend says this tea was subjected to ultra-slow baking, like some Taiwan oolongs, after a more or less normal manufacturing process for a shu Pu'er. The Chinese tea industry is pretty opaque to westerners like me, and I think we tend to assume that the good producers, at least, follow traditional methods unswervingly. That's a first approximation, at best, I think. /Lew --- Lew Perin / http://www.panix.com/~perin/babelcarp.html |
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Experimental Pu'ers
Lew Perin wrote:
> He brought along a non-compressed tea whose leaves were loosely > twisted and showed the occasional silvery tip. He didn't want to say > anything about it until I'd tasted it. (To the extent that this was a > test, I failed, as I really couldn't figure out what it was.) It had > something in common with a tippy Dian Hong (Yunnan red/black), > especially in the dry leaf aroma. When brewed, it reminded me at once > of white tea and some of the more delicate Chinese red teas. Its > aroma seemed better than its mouth feel. After three steeps, it was > pretty much played out. My friend then disclosed what it was: > essentially a Pu'er oolong. The tea's maker had taken sun-dried > maocha and subjected it to the bruising and oxidation normal for > oolong. As far as I know, this tea hasn't been sold, perhaps because > its maker wasn't satisfied with it. I was glad to have drunk it, and > if this was an experiment, I hope it will be pursued. As far as I am aware oolong-ized puerh do not age well. Good for drink it now, bad for future consumption if you want to keep it. It lacks a few things that a normal puerh would, among which is the long-lasting brewing that you can subject a puerh to. > That afternoon, I found out something about a shu Pu'er that I love > (my friend is much less enthusiastic): the 2003 Wu Liang Mountain tea > from Fu Cha Ju (sometimes mis-romanized as Fo Cha Ji.) It's unusually > fruity - I could swear I taste quince - and has other interesting > layers, too. My friend says this tea was subjected to ultra-slow > baking, like some Taiwan oolongs, after a more or less normal > manufacturing process for a shu Pu'er. Funny you mentioned Fuchaju. I just literally came back from visiting their store in Beijing. Clueless salespersons aside, I tried their Wuliangshan puerh (sheng). I found it rather fruity, a bit odd, definitely sundried though. I believe the baking you're talking about is actually what would normally be called roasting for teas -- as in roasting an oolong to make it more oxidized. The owner of Fuchaju is well know for his skills in roasting everything from tea to tobacco. He claims roasting puerh does something to the tea that makes it more drinkable and better for you. I don't know. The sheng cake I tried was so so. |
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Experimental Pu'ers
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Experimental Pu'ers
> Lew Perin wrote:
>> He brought along a non-compressed tea whose leaves were loosely >> twisted and showed the occasional silvery tip. He didn't want to say >> anything about it until I'd tasted it. (To the extent that this was a >> test, I failed, as I really couldn't figure out what it was.) It had >> something in common with a tippy Dian Hong (Yunnan red/black), >> especially in the dry leaf aroma. When brewed, it reminded me at once >> of white tea and some of the more delicate Chinese red teas. Its >> aroma seemed better than its mouth feel. After three steeps, it was >> pretty much played out. My friend then disclosed what it was: >> essentially a Pu'er oolong. The tea's maker had taken sun-dried >> maocha and subjected it to the bruising and oxidation normal for >> oolong. As far as I know, this tea hasn't been sold, perhaps because >> its maker wasn't satisfied with it. I was glad to have drunk it, and >> if this was an experiment, I hope it will be pursued. Marshal wrote > As far as I am aware oolong-ized puerh do not age well. Good for drink > it now, bad for future consumption if you want to keep it. It lacks a > few things that a normal puerh would, among which is the long-lasting > brewing that you can subject a puerh to. Michael wrote That makes sense and probably can go without saying because the tea is essentially oolong in its making. We can expect it to age as an oolong, which is not so well unless we reroast it periodically. Lew wrote >> That afternoon, I found out something about a shu Pu'er that I love >> (my friend is much less enthusiastic): the 2003 Wu Liang Mountain tea >> from Fu Cha Ju (sometimes mis-romanized as Fo Cha Ji.) It's unusually >> fruity - I could swear I taste quince - and has other interesting >> layers, too. My friend says this tea was subjected to ultra-slow >> baking, like some Taiwan oolongs, after a more or less normal >> manufacturing process for a shu Pu'er. > Marshal wrote > Funny you mentioned Fuchaju. I just literally came back from visiting > their store in Beijing. Clueless salespersons aside, I tried their > Wuliangshan puerh (sheng). I found it rather fruity, a bit odd, > definitely sundried though. I believe the baking you're talking about > is actually what would normally be called roasting for teas -- as in > roasting an oolong to make it more oxidized. The owner of Fuchaju is > well know for his skills in roasting everything from tea to tobacco. > He claims roasting puerh does something to the tea that makes it more > drinkable and better for you. I don't know. The sheng cake I tried > was so so. Michael wrote Roasting/baking/firing/frying are all the same, right? |
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Roasting and oxidation again (was: Experimental Pu'ers)
"MarshalN" > writes:
> Lew Perin wrote: > > [...] > > That afternoon, I found out something about a shu Pu'er that I love > > (my friend is much less enthusiastic): the 2003 Wu Liang Mountain tea > > from Fu Cha Ju (sometimes mis-romanized as Fo Cha Ji.) It's unusually > > fruity - I could swear I taste quince - and has other interesting > > layers, too. My friend says this tea was subjected to ultra-slow > > baking, like some Taiwan oolongs, after a more or less normal > > manufacturing process for a shu Pu'er. > > Funny you mentioned Fuchaju. I just literally came back from visiting > their store in Beijing. Clueless salespersons aside, I tried their > Wuliangshan puerh (sheng). I found it rather fruity, a bit odd, > definitely sundried though. Interesting that Wuliangshan raw, like the cooked WLS tea I mentioned, has a strong fruity character. Can you explain how you identify a Pu'er as sun-dried? > I believe the baking you're talking about is actually what would > normally be called roasting for teas -- as in roasting an oolong to > make it more oxidized. The owner of Fuchaju is well know for his > skills in roasting everything from tea to tobacco. He claims > roasting puerh does something to the tea that makes it more > drinkable and better for you. I don't know. The sheng cake I tried > was so so. So roasting increases the oxidation level of a tea? I've long been confused by the way many people, when talking about oolongs, conflate the amount of roasting with the level of oxidation. You seem to be saying that this is no accident, right? In my limited understanding of tea chemistry, the oxidation we're talking about is accomplished by the polyphenol oxidase enzymes in the leaves. And the PPOs function only when there's a certain amount of moisture remaining in the leaves. Plus, the PPOs get destroyed by heat beyond a certain level. So, put this all together, and you would have *very* slow baking, at a temperature of approximately what? /Lew --- Lew Perin / http://www.panix.com/~perin/babelcarp.html |
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Experimental Pu'ers
Michael Plant > writes:
> Lewis 10/23/06 > > [...] > > That afternoon, I found out something about a shu Pu'er that I love > > (my friend is much less enthusiastic): the 2003 Wu Liang Mountain tea > > from Fu Cha Ju (sometimes mis-romanized as Fo Cha Ji.) It's unusually > > fruity - I could swear I taste quince - and has other interesting > > layers, too. My friend says this tea was subjected to ultra-slow > > baking, like some Taiwan oolongs, after a more or less normal > > manufacturing process for a shu Pu'er. > > Lew, is this one that we drank together a year ago and that another mutual > friend of ours described as "disgusting"? No, but thanks for reminding me, because that tea, Jipin loose leaf from Yunnan Tea Import Export, is dead-center on topic. It looks like a very tippy Dian Hong, but it smells and tastes like no other tea I know. The only thing I can compare it to is dried porcini (Steinpilz, Karsten!) mushrooms. I'd love to know how it was made. > If it is, I'm fond of it. I like teas that think outside the > box. (Was that the right phrase?) No, we say "teas that seep through the tray." > > The Chinese tea industry is pretty opaque to westerners like me, and I > > think we tend to assume that the good producers, at least, follow > > traditional methods unswervingly. That's a first approximation, at > > best, I think. > > How did methods become "traditional"? Probably by being successful > experiments along the way. I have no doubt that over its thousands > of years of history, tea, like climate, changed more radically and > more quickly than we like to think. Opinions mine. Of course I agree with you. /Lew --- Lew Perin / http://www.panix.com/~perin/babelcarp.html |
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Experimental Pu'ers
Lewis Perin wrote:
> The only thing I can compare it to is dried porcini (Steinpilz, > Karsten!) mushrooms Thanks for pointing that out to the ol´ shroom head, Lew BTW: Excellent thread, keep it going folks ! Karsten [some XXX Ossi blend] > Michael Plant > writes: > > > Lewis 10/23/06 > > > [...] > > > That afternoon, I found out something about a shu Pu'er that I love > > > (my friend is much less enthusiastic): the 2003 Wu Liang Mountain tea > > > from Fu Cha Ju (sometimes mis-romanized as Fo Cha Ji.) It's unusually > > > fruity - I could swear I taste quince - and has other interesting > > > layers, too. My friend says this tea was subjected to ultra-slow > > > baking, like some Taiwan oolongs, after a more or less normal > > > manufacturing process for a shu Pu'er. > > > > Lew, is this one that we drank together a year ago and that another mutual > > friend of ours described as "disgusting"? > > No, but thanks for reminding me, because that tea, Jipin loose leaf > from Yunnan Tea Import Export, is dead-center on topic. It looks like > a very tippy Dian Hong, but it smells and tastes like no other tea I > know. The only thing I can compare it to is dried porcini (Steinpilz, > Karsten!) mushrooms. I'd love to know how it was made. > > > If it is, I'm fond of it. I like teas that think outside the > > box. (Was that the right phrase?) > > No, we say "teas that seep through the tray." > > > > The Chinese tea industry is pretty opaque to westerners like me, and I > > > think we tend to assume that the good producers, at least, follow > > > traditional methods unswervingly. That's a first approximation, at > > > best, I think. > > > > How did methods become "traditional"? Probably by being successful > > experiments along the way. I have no doubt that over its thousands > > of years of history, tea, like climate, changed more radically and > > more quickly than we like to think. Opinions mine. > > Of course I agree with you. > > /Lew > --- > Lew Perin / > http://www.panix.com/~perin/babelcarp.html |
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Roasting and oxidation again (was: Experimental Pu'ers)
[Marshal] >> I believe the baking you're talking about is actually what would >> normally be called roasting for teas -- as in roasting an oolong to >> make it more oxidized. The owner of Fuchaju is well know for his >> skills in roasting everything from tea to tobacco. He claims >> roasting puerh does something to the tea that makes it more >> drinkable and better for you. I don't know. The sheng cake I tried >> was so so. > [Lew] > So roasting increases the oxidation level of a tea? > > I've long been confused by the way many people, when talking about > oolongs, conflate the amount of roasting with the level of oxidation. > You seem to be saying that this is no accident, right? > > In my limited understanding of tea chemistry, the oxidation we're > talking about is accomplished by the polyphenol oxidase enzymes in the > leaves. And the PPOs function only when there's a certain amount of > moisture remaining in the leaves. Plus, the PPOs get destroyed by > heat beyond a certain level. So, put this all together, and you would > have *very* slow baking, at a temperature of approximately what? [Michael] Since Marshal hasn't checked in yet -- his knowledge superceding my speculations -- I want to suggest that with Oolongs, sun (or other) drying is alternated with baking. Thus, we'd get a bit of roasting, followed by a bit of oxidizing. I've read that this process might be repeated up to seven times. As you say, once the leaf is dry, the oxidation process is over (until the leaf is remoisturized through normal and/or bad storage and takes up more [unwanted] oxidation). Now, let's here from people who actually know what they are talking about. |
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Roasting and oxidation again (was: Experimental Pu'ers)
Michael Plant wrote:
> [Michael] > Since Marshal hasn't checked in yet -- his knowledge > superceding my speculations -- I want to suggest that > with Oolongs, sun (or other) drying is alternated with > baking. Thus, we'd get a bit of roasting, followed by > a bit of oxidizing. I've read that this process might be > repeated up to seven times. As you say, once the leaf > is dry, the oxidation process is over (until the leaf is > remoisturized through normal and/or bad storage and > takes up more [unwanted] oxidation). Now, let's here > from people who actually know what they are talking > about. >From what I understand -- and this is pretty rudimentary -- no tea is ever 100% dry. There is always some moisture in there. Otherwise, I suppose no tea will go bad? For example, people re-roast oolongs before putting it away for storage, because it dries the tea out further so that its quality will be kept better over time. Oolong for long term storage before drinking is often taken out to re-roast again after a few years before putting back in the bottle/jar/whatever so that the moisture gets burned off a bit more to keep it from going stale/bad. So, some degree of oxidation must be happening in this period. Also, the heat that is applied, I'd think, has something to do with it as well. Since roasting is not exactly a high heat method, from what I understand (versus, say, frying a thin layer of tea on a very hot pan a la Longjing) there is plenty of time for the tea to further oxidize while being roasted. That's what I think anyway, because the taste of highly roasted oolongs, when done well, is not from the charcoal. Sometimes you get a charcoal taste, but that's actually poorly done roasting... good roasting shouldn't have that, and also, a lot of times now they use electric roasters, which entirely circumvents the problem of charcoal taste. The heat does something to the tea, and other than enhancing oxidation, I can't imagine what else. |
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Roasting and oxidation again (was: Experimental Pu'ers)
Lewis Perin wrote: > Interesting that Wuliangshan raw, like the cooked WLS tea I mentioned, > has a strong fruity character. > > Can you explain how you identify a Pu'er as sun-dried? I don't know what to say, other than that there's a certain "sun" taste in the tea. Supposedly, you can find out what it's like by sundrying say, a Chinese cabbage. This is from folks on Sanzui. I've never tested it out, so I don't know. Uneven colour in the leaves also helps -- if it's uniformly green, it's probably been baked in the oven rather than sundried. Of course, that is not a guaranteed thing. I think sundrying gives raw puerh its unique taste profile. |
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Experimental Pu'ers
Lew, I don´t know too much about those Ossis across the former iron
curtain, I was actually referring to this more local Ostfriesean tribe over here in the west. But as tea (coffee, bananas, zircon-incrusted tweezers, ...) has only recently been introduced over there (about 17 years ago - correct me if I´m wrong here) I guess they´d still be messing around with the first generation of volks clones and that it would be pretty darn late for the 2008 olympics. Karsten [6th pot of that no-name XXX OstFRIESEN blend] Lewis Perin wrote: > writes: > > > Lewis Perin wrote: > > > > > The only thing I can compare it to is dried porcini (Steinpilz, > > > Karsten!) mushrooms > > > > Thanks for pointing that out to the ol´ shroom head, Lew > > BTW: Excellent thread, keep it going folks ! > > > > Karsten [some XXX Ossi blend] > > While we're talking state-of-the-art tea technology, can you tell me > if the Ossis use[d] anabolic steroids on their tea bushes?[1] > > /Lew > --- > Lew Perin / > http://www.panix.com/~perin/babelcarp.html > [1]Sorry, couldn't resist... |
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Roasting and oxidation again (was: Experimental Pu'ers)
"MarshalN" > writes:
> Lewis Perin wrote: > > > Interesting that Wuliangshan raw, like the cooked WLS tea I mentioned, > > has a strong fruity character. > > > > Can you explain how you identify a Pu'er as sun-dried? > > [...the taste is different...] > > Uneven colour in the leaves also helps -- if it's uniformly green, it's > probably been baked in the oven rather than sundried. Of course, that > is not a guaranteed thing. You're talking about unevenness within a single leaf, right? /Lew --- Lew Perin / http://www.panix.com/~perin/babelcarp.html |
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Roasting and oxidation again (was: Experimental Pu'ers)
MarshalN wrote:
> Uneven colour in the leaves also helps -- if it's uniformly green, it's > probably been baked in the oven rather than sundried. Of course, that > is not a guaranteed thing. I´d say this highly depends on the way the leaves are manipulated [transported, tossed, ...] after they´ve been carefully plucked as well as the specific kinds of heat treatment they´ve been given. During those all important phases [harvesting-withering-tossing/manipulating-panning-baking-...] almost everything else boils down to temperature/time. AFAIR freshly plucked leaves don´t benefit too much from being exposed to intense sunlight [UV, temp.] for extended periods, but then I´m talking blacks (reds) and Oolongs and this possibly - or probably doesn´t apply in the all mysterious world of Pu-Erh. [I have pics of some leaves that have been gently plucked, transported and sundried for 2 days - nice, even green all over them, but keeping all those factors in mind that´s not necessarily the rule]. Karsten [Contemplating a 7th pot of that Ostfrisean brain buster] MarshalN wrote: > Lewis Perin wrote: > > > Interesting that Wuliangshan raw, like the cooked WLS tea I mentioned, > > has a strong fruity character. > > > > Can you explain how you identify a Pu'er as sun-dried? > > I don't know what to say, other than that there's a certain "sun" taste > in the tea. Supposedly, you can find out what it's like by sundrying > say, a Chinese cabbage. This is from folks on Sanzui. I've never > tested it out, so I don't know. > > Uneven colour in the leaves also helps -- if it's uniformly green, it's > probably been baked in the oven rather than sundried. Of course, that > is not a guaranteed thing. > > I think sundrying gives raw puerh its unique taste profile. |
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Roasting and oxidation again (was: Experimental Pu'ers)
Ahh, missed out that one ...
MarshalN wrote: > Oolong for long term storage before drinking > is often taken out to re-roast again after a few years before putting > back in the bottle/jar/whatever so that the moisture gets burned off a > bit more to keep it from going stale/bad. > So, some degree of oxidation must be happening in this period. Definetely so, the "goodies" oxidate, this is highly pronounced if there´s more, than say around 4-5% of water left in the leaves and should be understood as a different set of chemical reactions as opposed to those happening in the leaves between plucking and final baking [until packed]. While those last temperature intense steps primarily focus on stopping any chemical and biochemical process that has been artfully initiated by plucking, withering and manipulating [tossing, rolling, kneading, ... ] those leaves, any later reactions could be described as the tea "getting stale". I could throw in some chemical specs but AFAIR mentioned something some time ago. No tea master will market a tea [again: green, black, oolong] that still contains any active enzymes. However oxidation doesn´t stop with packing, that´s why most of us take great care of how we store our teas. There´s also a third set of reactions taking place, right after packing that tea, some masters claim that their leaves take some time to mature. From what I´ve seen, this behaviour is most prominent in First Flush Darjeelings, especially the newer, greener styles. Ever had a chance to compare some freshly produced FF DJ with that same tea 2 weeks later [in the mind that is] ? Not only does it change in taste, but it also looks completely different [some DJ FFs I´ve sampled where packed as ... well ... greens]. > Since roasting is not exactly a high heat method, from what I > understand (versus, say, frying a thin layer of tea on a very hot pan a > la Longjing) ... Depends on what you call high heat. Ever stirred some tea leaves in a red-glowing wok with bare hands ? Funny experience. > there is plenty of time for the tea to further oxidize > while being roasted. Definetely so. Generally spoken the thicker the leaves, the colder and shorter the roasting, and the shorter and less intense the rolling periods the more often you -can- go all over again [don´t need to, depends on what you´re heading for]. > ... because the taste of highly roasted oolongs, when done well, is not from the charcoal. Right, at least if you have the right stuff at hand, good, correctly glowing charcoal doesn´t smell of anything, one reason why they still use it these days. > Sometimes you get a charcoal taste, but that's actually poorly done roasting Bad coals, bad glow [tea brought in too early], dirty fire from stuff [broken leaves, cigarette buds] that has fallen onto the glowing coal. > The heat does something to the tea, and other than enhancing oxidation, I can't imagine what else. During the first production steps the two all important factors heat and time basically allow for control of the direction all those hundreds of different [bio-] chemical processes move [think taste/color/...]. Finally it slowly stops the enzymatic activity as well as other closely coupled [bio-]chemical reactions and removes the water [if you´re talking about the first production cycle here and not about re-roasting]. Again, I could throw in some more details, but heck ... Karsten [one more cup of that O-stuff and I´ll walk up that wall] MarshalN wrote: > Michael Plant wrote: > > [Michael] > > Since Marshal hasn't checked in yet -- his knowledge > > superceding my speculations -- I want to suggest that > > with Oolongs, sun (or other) drying is alternated with > > baking. Thus, we'd get a bit of roasting, followed by > > a bit of oxidizing. I've read that this process might be > > repeated up to seven times. As you say, once the leaf > > is dry, the oxidation process is over (until the leaf is > > remoisturized through normal and/or bad storage and > > takes up more [unwanted] oxidation). Now, let's here > > from people who actually know what they are talking > > about. > > >From what I understand -- and this is pretty rudimentary -- no tea is > ever 100% dry. There is always some moisture in there. Otherwise, I > suppose no tea will go bad? > > For example, people re-roast oolongs before putting it away for > storage, because it dries the tea out further so that its quality will > be kept better over time. Oolong for long term storage before drinking > is often taken out to re-roast again after a few years before putting > back in the bottle/jar/whatever so that the moisture gets burned off a > bit more to keep it from going stale/bad. > > So, some degree of oxidation must be happening in this period. Also, > the heat that is applied, I'd think, has something to do with it as > well. Since roasting is not exactly a high heat method, from what I > understand (versus, say, frying a thin layer of tea on a very hot pan a > la Longjing) there is plenty of time for the tea to further oxidize > while being roasted. > > That's what I think anyway, because the taste of highly roasted > oolongs, when done well, is not from the charcoal. Sometimes you get a > charcoal taste, but that's actually poorly done roasting... good > roasting shouldn't have that, and also, a lot of times now they use > electric roasters, which entirely circumvents the problem of charcoal > taste. The heat does something to the tea, and other than enhancing > oxidation, I can't imagine what else. |
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Roasting and oxidation again (was: Experimental Pu'ers)
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