I was unloading the dishwasher, and I bumped two bowls together as I was
stacking them. It wasn't a huge impact, but it must have been just the
right shock in just the right spot, because it knocked a pinto-bean
sized chip out of the rim of one of them. Sad

I know it's not unique like people's prized coffee mugs or fine china (I
have 7 more bowls just like it). I know it's minor, and I know this will
only happen some more as time goes on, but it's just the sort of
insignificant thing that'll ruin my day. I rather liked having a whole
complete set of nice, new, intact dishes. For once.

Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
dishwasher just blow that piece off again?

Thanks.

phaeton > wrote:

>I was unloading the dishwasher, and I bumped two bowls together as I was
>stacking them. It wasn't a huge impact, but it must have been just the
>right shock in just the right spot, because it knocked a pinto-bean
>sized chip out of the rim of one of them. Sad

>I know it's not unique like people's prized coffee mugs or fine china (I
>have 7 more bowls just like it). I know it's minor, and I know this will
>only happen some more as time goes on, but it's just the sort of
>insignificant thing that'll ruin my day. I rather liked having a whole
>complete set of nice, new, intact dishes. For once.

>Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
>back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
>dishwasher just blow that piece off again?

I would not use superglue. I would use Elmer's glue, and clamp
it, and leave it a long time (like a week) before using it again.
I have done this to ceramic pieces and they stay glued
together indefinitely (many years). Plus Elmer's (what is
the generic name... white glue?) is reasonably non-toxic.

Steve

phaeton wrote:

> Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
> back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
> dishwasher just blow that piece off again?
>
> Thanks.

What do you have to lose trying?
Report back on the results.

In article >,
phaeton > wrote:

> Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
> back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea?

Sure. Why not?

> Will the dishwasher just blow that piece off again?


Not necessarily. Live dangerously‹try it. If it comes off, you've
wasted, what?, two minutes of your life?

> Thanks.
--
-Barb, Mother Superior, HOSSSPoJ
<http://www.caringbridge.org/visit/amytaylor>

phaeton wrote:
>
> I was unloading the dishwasher, and I bumped two bowls together as I was
> stacking them. It wasn't a huge impact, but it must have been just the
> right shock in just the right spot, because it knocked a pinto-bean
> sized chip out of the rim of one of them. Sad
>
> I know it's not unique like people's prized coffee mugs or fine china (I
> have 7 more bowls just like it). I know it's minor, and I know this will
> only happen some more as time goes on, but it's just the sort of
> insignificant thing that'll ruin my day. I rather liked having a whole
> complete set of nice, new, intact dishes. For once.
>
> Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
> back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
> dishwasher just blow that piece off again?

http://gorillaglue.com/glues/gorillaglue/index.aspx

Steve Pope wrote:
Plus Elmer's (what is
> the generic name... white glue?) is reasonably non-toxic.

caseine? I don't think I spelled that right.

On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 19:16:36 -0600, phaeton >
wrote:

>I was unloading the dishwasher, and I bumped two bowls together as I was
>stacking them. It wasn't a huge impact, but it must have been just the
>right shock in just the right spot, because it knocked a pinto-bean
>sized chip out of the rim of one of them. Sad
>
>I know it's not unique like people's prized coffee mugs or fine china (I
>have 7 more bowls just like it). I know it's minor, and I know this will
>only happen some more as time goes on, but it's just the sort of
>insignificant thing that'll ruin my day. I rather liked having a whole
>complete set of nice, new, intact dishes. For once.
>
>Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
>back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
>dishwasher just blow that piece off again?
>
>Thanks.

Super glue really isn't the strongest product. Try a nail supply
store and spring for a couple of bucks for something like this. I've
repaired coffee cup handles that have lasted many years.

http://www.enailsupply.com/index.asp...OD&ProdID=2328

Lou

In article >,
(Steve Pope) wrote:

> phaeton > wrote:
>
> >I was unloading the dishwasher, and I bumped two bowls together as I was
> >stacking them. It wasn't a huge impact, but it must have been just the
> >right shock in just the right spot, because it knocked a pinto-bean
> >sized chip out of the rim of one of them. Sad
>
> >I know it's not unique like people's prized coffee mugs or fine china (I
> >have 7 more bowls just like it). I know it's minor, and I know this will
> >only happen some more as time goes on, but it's just the sort of
> >insignificant thing that'll ruin my day. I rather liked having a whole
> >complete set of nice, new, intact dishes. For once.
>
> >Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
> >back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
> >dishwasher just blow that piece off again?
>
> I would not use superglue. I would use Elmer's glue, and clamp
> it, and leave it a long time (like a week) before using it again.
> I have done this to ceramic pieces and they stay glued
> together indefinitely (many years). Plus Elmer's (what is
> the generic name... white glue?) is reasonably non-toxic.

Elmer's Glue is not waterproof. If you want to put it in the
dishwasher, you should use a waterproof glue. I assume you'd like
it to be microwave-safe too? A simple solution might be to stop
at a ceramics store (a place that sells pottery supplies, that is)
and ask what they'd recommend.

Mike Beede

In article >,
(Steve Pope) wrote:

> I would not use superglue. I would use Elmer's glue, and clamp
> it, and leave it a long time (like a week) before using it again.
> I have done this to ceramic pieces and they stay glued
> together indefinitely (many years). Plus Elmer's (what is
> the generic name... white glue?) is reasonably non-toxic.


Bad idea. Elmer's glue is water soluble.

Stan Horwitz wrote:
> > Steve Pope wrote:
>
> > I would not use superglue. �I would use Elmer's glue, and clamp
> > it, and leave it a long time (like a week) before using it again.
> > I have done this to ceramic pieces and they stay glued
> > together indefinitely (many years). �Plus Elmer's (what is
> > the generic name... white glue?) is reasonably non-toxic.
>
> Bad idea.

Interesting how folks make negative comments but offer no alternative.

> Elmer's glue is water soluble.

WRONG!

Elmer's makes many types of glue, some quite applicable for
*waterproof* ceramics repair. Elmers also makes industrial glues,
some used for repairing bathroom tile and outdoor concrete, readily
available at hardware emporiums.

Elmer's Nano Glue is probably their version of my glue of choice that
no home should be without, Gorilla Glue.

http://www.elmers.com/homerepair/products.asp

On Jan 14, 10:11�pm, "l, not -l" > wrote:
> On 14-Jan-2009, phaeton > wrote:
>
> > Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
> > back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
> > dishwasher just blow that piece off again?
>
> > Thanks.
>
> Superglue does not hold up well long-term in damp/wet applications. �

Superglue also doesn't do well on porous surfaces... but then let's
not be too quick, by now Super Glue might make many versions.

> Epoxy would be a better choice than superglue.

Again, there are many, many versions of epoxies with different
properties.

For repairing ceramics I can highly recommend Gorrila Glue... from
personal experience I know it is not only waterproof (easily survives
auto dishwashers), also survives baking oven temps. Gorilla Glue
(like most glues) works best when clamped during curing... how to
clamp a chip on a dish is the real problem... In certain situations
I've had good results with heavy rubberbands, I've even applied
tourniquets.

Sheldon wrote:
> On Jan 14, 10:11�pm, "l, not -l" > wrote:
>> On 14-Jan-2009, phaeton > wrote:
>>
>>> Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
>>> back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
>>> dishwasher just blow that piece off again?
>>> Thanks.
>> Superglue does not hold up well long-term in damp/wet applications. �
>
> Superglue also doesn't do well on porous surfaces... but then let's
> not be too quick, by now Super Glue might make many versions.
>
>> Epoxy would be a better choice than superglue.
>
> Again, there are many, many versions of epoxies with different
> properties.
>
> For repairing ceramics I can highly recommend Gorrila Glue... from
> personal experience I know it is not only waterproof (easily survives
> auto dishwashers), also survives baking oven temps. Gorilla Glue
> (like most glues) works best when clamped during curing... how to
> clamp a chip on a dish is the real problem... In certain situations
> I've had good results with heavy rubberbands, I've even applied
> tourniquets.
>
How long does it need to cure? I have a lovely, handmade plate,
that I'd love to glue back together.

--
Jean B.

On Jan 15, 9:51�am, "Jean B." > wrote:
> Sheldon wrote:
> > On Jan 14, 10:11 pm, "l, not -l" > wrote:
> >> On 14-Jan-2009, phaeton > wrote:
>
> >>> Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
> >>> back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
> >>> dishwasher just blow that piece off again?
> >>> Thanks.
> >> Superglue does not hold up well long-term in damp/wet applications.
>
> > Superglue also doesn't do well on porous surfaces... but then let's
> > not be too quick, by now Super Glue might make many versions.
>
> >> Epoxy would be a better choice than superglue.
>
> > Again, there are many, many versions of epoxies with different
> > properties.
>
> > For repairing ceramics I can highly recommend Gorrila Glue... from
> > personal experience I know it is not only waterproof (easily survives
> > auto dishwashers), also survives baking oven temps. �Gorilla Glue
> > (like most glues) works best when clamped during curing... how to
> > clamp a chip on a dish is the real problem... In certain situations
> > I've had good results with heavy rubberbands, I've even applied
> > tourniquets.
>
> How long does it need to cure? �I have a lovely, handmade plate,
> that I'd love to glue back together.

Gorrila Glue fully cures in 24 hours... their web site is very
informative, I strongly suggest reading every word. Gorrilla Glue
expands as it cures so use about half as much as you think you
need.... make sure the surfaces are clean, free of loose debris, and
dampen one surface with water, place glue on dry surface, spread with
a toothpic (check out your clamping method prior to gluing). For home
use I suggest buying the smallest size, it dosen't have a very long
shelf life, about two years... and as with all these types of glues
squeeze the air out of the bottle before capping, also a good Idea to
then store bottle upside down.

Sheldon wrote:
> On Jan 15, 9:51�am, "Jean B." > wrote:
>> Sheldon wrote:
>>> On Jan 14, 10:11 pm, "l, not -l" > wrote:
>>>> On 14-Jan-2009, phaeton > wrote:
>>>>> Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
>>>>> back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
>>>>> dishwasher just blow that piece off again?
>>>>> Thanks.
>>>> Superglue does not hold up well long-term in damp/wet applications.
>>> Superglue also doesn't do well on porous surfaces... but then let's
>>> not be too quick, by now Super Glue might make many versions.
>>>> Epoxy would be a better choice than superglue.
>>> Again, there are many, many versions of epoxies with different
>>> properties.
>>> For repairing ceramics I can highly recommend Gorrila Glue... from
>>> personal experience I know it is not only waterproof (easily survives
>>> auto dishwashers), also survives baking oven temps. �Gorilla Glue
>>> (like most glues) works best when clamped during curing... how to
>>> clamp a chip on a dish is the real problem... In certain situations
>>> I've had good results with heavy rubberbands, I've even applied
>>> tourniquets.
>> How long does it need to cure? �I have a lovely, handmade plate,
>> that I'd love to glue back together.
>
> Gorrila Glue fully cures in 24 hours... their web site is very
> informative, I strongly suggest reading every word. Gorrilla Glue
> expands as it cures so use about half as much as you think you
> need.... make sure the surfaces are clean, free of loose debris, and
> dampen one surface with water, place glue on dry surface, spread with
> a toothpic (check out your clamping method prior to gluing). For home
> use I suggest buying the smallest size, it dosen't have a very long
> shelf life, about two years... and as with all these types of glues
> squeeze the air out of the bottle before capping, also a good Idea to
> then store bottle upside down.
>
Thanks. The main problem will be clamping. I really wish I had
my dad's clamps!!!!

--
Jean B.

Stan Horwitz > wrote:

> (Steve Pope) wrote:

>> I would not use superglue. I would use Elmer's glue, and clamp
>> it, and leave it a long time (like a week) before using it again.
>> I have done this to ceramic pieces and they stay glued
>> together indefinitely (many years). Plus Elmer's (what is
>> the generic name... white glue?) is reasonably non-toxic.

>Bad idea. Elmer's glue is water soluble.

Elmer's glue is water soluable but after it sets for long
enough it can hold ceramic pieces together even if they
become wet. I've glued together a teapot with it without
mishap. It's necessary, I think, to let it dry out for a long
time (weeks or even months).

The stuff binds really well with ceramic.

Steve

On Jan 15, 1:08�pm, (Steve Pope) wrote:
> Stan Horwitz > wrote:
>
> > (Steve Pope) wrote:
> >> I would not use superglue. �I would use Elmer's glue, and clamp
> >> it, and leave it a long time (like a week) before using it again.
> >> I have done this to ceramic pieces and they stay glued
> >> together indefinitely (many years). �Plus Elmer's (what is
> >> the generic name... white glue?) is reasonably non-toxic.
> >Bad idea. Elmer's glue is water soluble.
>
> Elmer's glue is water soluable but after it sets for long
> enough it can hold ceramic pieces together even if they
> become wet. �I've glued together a teapot with it without
> mishap. �It's necessary, I think, to let it dry out for a long
> time (weeks or even months).
>
> The stuff binds really well with ceramic.

Which Elmer's glue, they make a large variety.

Sheldon > wrote:

>On Jan 15, 1:08�pm, (Steve Pope) wrote:

>> Elmer's glue is water soluable but after it sets for long
>> enough it can hold ceramic pieces together even if they
>> become wet. I've glued together a teapot with it without
>> mishap. It's necessary, I think, to let it dry out for a long
>> time (weeks or even months).

>> The stuff binds really well with ceramic.

>Which Elmer's glue, they make a large variety.

I'm pretty sure in the above instance I used traditional,
original Elmer's glue. Quite possibly there is a more
appropriate modern version for this task.

Steve

"Jean B." wrote:
>
> Thanks. �The main problem will be clamping. �I really wish I had
> my dad's clamps!!!!

With broken crockery ther eare typically no flat or parrallel
susrfaces so the standard screw/spring type clamping tools probably
won't help... most likely you'll need to devise something by taping
the pieces to wooden splints and applying pressure with rubberbands...
often you'll need to use something as a weight (bag of sand) and rely
on good old gravity. In extreme cases you may need to create a ridgid
form to hold the pieces in position while applying pressure, like a
hunk of styrofoam.

Janet Wilder wrote:
> Steve Pope wrote:
> Plus Elmer's (what is
>> the generic name... white glue?) is reasonably non-toxic.
>
> caseine? I don't think I spelled that right.

Real close. Casein, which is a protein derived from milk. That's
probably why you got yer cow on Elmer's glue. I did not know that casein
glues, that's plain old white glue, was waterproof. I like epoxy in this
application. :-)

dsi1 wrote:
>
> I like epoxy in this application. �

There are literally thousands of different epoxies, which?

phaeton wrote:
> I was unloading the dishwasher, and I bumped two bowls together as I
> was stacking them. It wasn't a huge impact, but it must have been
> just the right shock in just the right spot, because it knocked a
> pinto-bean sized chip out of the rim of one of them. Sad
>
> I know it's not unique like people's prized coffee mugs or fine china
> (I have 7 more bowls just like it). I know it's minor, and I know
> this will only happen some more as time goes on, but it's just the
> sort of insignificant thing that'll ruin my day. I rather liked
> having a whole complete set of nice, new, intact dishes. For once.
>
> Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
> back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
> dishwasher just blow that piece off again?
>
> Thanks.

It doesn't hurt to have a small wardrobe of glue varieties on hand. Go to
Wal-Mart or similar store and spend 5 minutes reading the bottles of
adhesives. There are products that a especially suited to the kind of
repair you want to make.
Janet

phaeton wrote:
>
> I was unloading the dishwasher, and I bumped two bowls together as I was
> stacking them. It wasn't a huge impact, but it must have been just the
> right shock in just the right spot, because it knocked a pinto-bean
> sized chip out of the rim of one of them. Sad
>
> I know it's not unique like people's prized coffee mugs or fine china (I
> have 7 more bowls just like it). I know it's minor, and I know this will
> only happen some more as time goes on, but it's just the sort of
> insignificant thing that'll ruin my day. I rather liked having a whole
> complete set of nice, new, intact dishes. For once.
>
> Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
> back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
> dishwasher just blow that piece off again?
>
> Thanks.


There are specialist food-safe glues for ceramics. Look it up online or
go to a ceramic hobby shop and ask. Superglue isn't terribly
water-stable.

Sheldon wrote:
> "Jean B." wrote:
>> Thanks. �The main problem will be clamping. �I really wish I had
>> my dad's clamps!!!!
>
> With broken crockery ther eare typically no flat or parrallel
> susrfaces so the standard screw/spring type clamping tools probably
> won't help... most likely you'll need to devise something by taping
> the pieces to wooden splints and applying pressure with rubberbands...
> often you'll need to use something as a weight (bag of sand) and rely
> on good old gravity. In extreme cases you may need to create a ridgid
> form to hold the pieces in position while applying pressure, like a
> hunk of styrofoam.
>
Thanks for the clues. I'll drag those pieces down--maybe
tomorrow, and see how I can do that. (It's already zero here, and
I am not going to want to go out much tomorrow, so what better
thing to do?)

--
Jean B.

On Jan 15, 11:41*am, Sheldon > wrote:
> dsi1 wrote:
>
> > I like epoxy in this application.
>
> There are literally thousands of different epoxies, which?

Really? Name 500. :-)

On Jan 15, 12:15*pm, "l, not -l" > wrote:
> On 15-Jan-2009, dsi1 > wrote:
>
> > Real close. Casein, which is a protein derived from milk. That's
> > probably why you got yer cow on Elmer's glue. I did not know that casein
> > glues, that's plain old white glue, was waterproof. I like epoxy in this
> > application. *:-)
>
> Once upon a time, casein was used in the making of plastic and has been used
> to make such diverse products as buttons and fountain pens. *While casein is
> somewhat water resistant, prolonged exposure, such as soaking a fountain pen
> barrel for hours to remove accumulated crud, will cause softening, swelling
> and distortion.
> --
> Change Cujo to Juno in email address.

So it's not waterproof, right? Sounds like casein plastic probably
predates bakelite. I like celluloid myself. :-)

I'm no glue expert but epoxy seems about right. Specifically the kind
that one sees on the racks in hardware stores. :-) OTOH, it's a lot
like gluing glass and therefore probably a tricky problem. Maybe one
could use that rear-view mirror glue stuff. They use that to glue a
metal slug to automotive glass windshields - I believe that to be a
type of CA glue. Looks like we'll never know unless someone does the
tests... that's the breaks.

dumb sicko iidiot1 <dsi...@asshole> wrote:
> Sheldon wrote:
>
> > dumb sicko idiot1 wrote:
>
> > > I like epoxy in this application.
>
> > There are literally thousands of different epoxies, which?
>
> Really? Name 500. :-)

The ****ing pinhead can't even write coherently, with it's baby speak
sentence fragments.

There are many new epoxies being developed every day

There are well over a thousand different manufacturers of epoxies,
each makes many types. Here is but one: http://www.masterbond.com/index.html

If you had a functioning brain (you don't) you'd know how to seach
<epoxy and types>.

On Jan 16, 4:23�am, dsi1 > wrote:
> On Jan 15, 12:15�pm, "l, not -l" > wrote:
>
> > On 15-Jan-2009, dsi1 > wrote:
>
> > > Real close. Casein, which is a protein derived from milk. That's
> > > probably why you got yer cow on Elmer's glue. I did not know that casein
> > > glues, that's plain old white glue, was waterproof. I like epoxy in this
> > > application. �:-)
>
> > Once upon a time, casein was used in the making of plastic and has been used
> > to make such diverse products as buttons and fountain pens. �While casein is
> > somewhat water resistant, prolonged exposure, such as soaking a fountain pen
> > barrel for hours to remove accumulated crud, will cause softening, swelling
> > and distortion.
> > --
> > Change Cujo to Juno in email address.
>
> So it's not waterproof, right? Sounds like casein plastic probably
> predates bakelite. I like celluloid myself. :-)
>
> I'm no glue expert but epoxy seems about right. Specifically the kind
> that one sees on the racks in hardware stores. :-) OTOH, it's a lot
> like gluing glass and therefore probably a tricky problem. Maybe one
> could use that rear-view mirror glue stuff. They use that to glue a
> metal slug to automotive glass windshields - I believe that to be a
> type of CA glue. Looks like we'll never know unless someone does the
> tests... that's the breaks.

How is bonding smooth metal to smooth glass the same as bonding broken
pottery... it's not. You think you're a wise ass, but unfortunately
for you you've no wisdom at all but you're all ass, all
asshole.

Sheldon wrote:
> dumb sicko iidiot1 <dsi...@asshole> wrote:
>> Sheldon wrote:
>>
>>> dumb sicko idiot1 wrote:
>>>> I like epoxy in this application.
>>> There are literally thousands of different epoxies, which?
>> Really? Name 500. :-)
>
> The ****ing pinhead can't even write coherently, with it's baby speak
> sentence fragments.
>
> There are many new epoxies being developed every day
>
> There are well over a thousand different manufacturers of epoxies,
> each makes many types. Here is but one: http://www.masterbond.com/index.html
>
> If you had a functioning brain (you don't) you'd know how to seach
> <epoxy and types>.
>

Don't get upset pal. I guess when you need epoxy glue, you'll look up
(or seach as you say) just the right formula in your epoxy catalog and
then custom order it. Unfortunately, the rest of us have to go to our
hardware store and choose from the 6 or so available. What can I say?
We're pinheads! Some of us are even ****ing pinheads. Have a nice day!
:-)

Sheldon wrote:

> How is bonding smooth metal to smooth glass the same as bonding broken
> pottery... it's not. You think you're a wise ass, but unfortunately
> for you you've no wisdom at all but you're all ass, all
> asshole.

I love this place! :-)

l, not -l wrote:
> On 16-Jan-2009, dsi1 > wrote:
>
>>> Once upon a time, casein was used in the making of plastic and has been
>>> used
>>> to make such diverse products as buttons and fountain pens. While
>>> casein is
>>> somewhat water resistant, prolonged exposure, such as soaking a fountain
>>> pen
>>> barrel for hours to remove accumulated crud, will cause softening,
>>> swelling
>>> and distortion.
>>> --
>>> Change Cujo to Juno in email address.
>> So it's not waterproof, right? Sounds like casein plastic probably
>> predates bakelite. I like celluloid myself. :-)
>
> Not waterproof; only water resistant for short periods. It was a
> contemporary of bakelite, but offered much greater color choices. Casein
> plastic is still used, just not anywhere near the extent it once was. I
> like celluloid for fountain pens - it has a good feel; but, like most
> materials, it too has issues, especially when 50-75 years old (don't we
> all).

I did not know that casein based plastics were still in use. I used to
have an assortment of celluloid guitar picks - they were beautiful. The
nylon and delrin or whatever the hell they're using these days are
pretty drab. I guess there's not much use for that colorful, explosive
plastic these days. :-)

As far as Elmer's glue goes, perhaps it could work. I don't know.
Generally, we'll use whatever glue we have around. What else can we do?
:-)

dsi1 wrote:
> Sheldon wrote:
>> dumb sicko iidiot1 <dsi...@asshole> wrote:
>>> Sheldon wrote:
>>>
>>>> dumb sicko idiot1 wrote:
>>>>> I like epoxy in this application.
>>>> There are literally thousands of different epoxies, which?
>>> Really? Name 500. :-)
>>
>> The ****ing pinhead can't even write coherently, with it's baby speak
>> sentence fragments.
>>
>> There are many new epoxies being developed every day
>>
>> There are well over a thousand different manufacturers of epoxies,
>> each makes many types. Here is but one:
>> http://www.masterbond.com/index.html If you had a functioning brain (you
>> don't) you'd know how to seach
>> <epoxy and types>.
>>
>
> Don't get upset pal. I guess when you need epoxy glue, you'll look up
> (or seach as you say) just the right formula in your epoxy catalog and
> then custom order it. Unfortunately, the rest of us have to go to our
> hardware store and choose from the 6 or so available. What can I say?
> We're pinheads! Some of us are even ****ing pinheads. Have a nice day!
> :-)

I would guess that you haven't been to the hardware store or Wal-Mart type
store recently looking for adhesives. There are dozens and dozens and many
mix like epoxy. The adhesives can be very specific or very broad ranged.
Your argument is not based on current market.
Janet

On Jan 16, 4:40�pm, dsi1 > wrote:
> l, not -l wrote:
> > On 16-Jan-2009, dsi1 > wrote:
>
> >>> Once upon a time, casein was used in the making of plastic and has been
> >>> used
> >>> to make such diverse products as buttons and fountain pens. �While
> >>> casein is
> >>> somewhat water resistant, prolonged exposure, such as soaking a fountain
> >>> pen
> >>> barrel for hours to remove accumulated crud, will cause softening,
> >>> swelling
> >>> and distortion.
> >>> --
> >>> Change Cujo to Juno in email address.
> >> So it's not waterproof, right? Sounds like casein plastic probably
> >> predates bakelite. I like celluloid myself. :-)
>
> > Not waterproof; only water resistant for short periods. �It was a
> > contemporary of bakelite, but offered much greater color choices. �Casein
> > plastic is still used, just not anywhere near the extent it once was. �I
> > like celluloid for fountain pens - it has a good feel; but, like most
> > materials, it too has issues, especially when 50-75 years old (don't we
> > all).
>
> I did not know that casein based plastics were still in use. I used to
> have an assortment of celluloid guitar picks - they were beautiful. The
> nylon and delrin or whatever the hell they're using these days are
> pretty drab. I guess there's not much use for that colorful, explosive
> plastic these days. :-)
>
> As far as Elmer's glue goes, perhaps it could work. I don't know.
> Generally, we'll use whatever glue we have around. What else can we do?
> :-)- Hide quoted text -

You can epoxy your ass to your elbow so you're remember the difference
and so your few brain cells don't fall out.

Janet Bostwick wrote:

> I would guess that you haven't been to the hardware store or Wal-Mart type
> store recently looking for adhesives. There are dozens and dozens and many
> mix like epoxy. The adhesives can be very specific or very broad ranged.
> Your argument is not based on current market.

Please let me know what you think my argument was. I thought that it was
that we don't have a choice of several thousand different epoxies to
choose from. Was there something wrong with my logic? I understand that
there's a whole bunch of glues on the shelves of Walmart, however, I was
referring only to the epoxy glues that one is likely to find at the
local hardware store. Please check out the current market at a small
hardware store.

That's OK - whether you go to Walmart or the local hardware store,
you'll pick the one that you think would work best. In my case, I'd look
for a medium viscosity glue that's suitable for ceramics. This calls for
a careful reading of the packaging. You or the angry pompous dude might
pick something else - it's all your decision - there's no need to get
all riled up simply because we have differing glues of choice, is there?

To be honest, the first thing I'd use would be a UV-cured glue that I
use daily in my profession but that stuff is not too available at most
stores, however, it should be. :-)

> Janet
>
>

Sheldon wrote:

>
> You can epoxy your ass to your elbow so you're remember the difference
> and so your few brain cells don't fall out.
>

There's no doubt whatsoever that I'm a wiseass. Thanks for pointing out
the obvious. :-) Hell, it's obvious that you're smarter than I am.
However, I have little respect for a guy that would hassle folks he
considers lower in intelligence. That ain't very nice, is it?

OK, so you're a smart guy - if I ever need some really smart, pompous
old coot telling me there's only one way to do things, some nasty, angry
guy of limited imagination that can only cook with gas at low to
moderate temperatures and is fearful of damaging his boutique pans I'll
be sure to look ya up. Have a nice day pal! :-)

In article > ,
dsi1 > wrote:

> Sheldon wrote:
>
> > How is bonding smooth metal to smooth glass the same as bonding broken
> > pottery... it's not. You think you're a wise ass, but unfortunately
> > for you you've no wisdom at all but you're all ass, all
> > asshole.
>
> I love this place! :-)

Glad you can keep your sense of humor!

:-)

--
Dan Abel
Petaluma, California USA

On Jan 16, 5:14*pm, Dan Abel > wrote:
> In article > ,
>
> *dsi1 > wrote:
> > Sheldon wrote:
>
> > > How is bonding smooth metal to smooth glass the same as bonding broken
> > > pottery... it's not. *You think you're a wise ass, but unfortunately
> > > for you you've no wisdom at all but you're all ass, all
> > > asshole.
>
> > I love this place! :-)
>
> Glad you can keep your sense of humor!
>
> :-)
>
> --
> Dan Abel
> Petaluma, California USA
>

He's just another dude with a malevolent streak that always seem to
hang around NGs. Not much to be concerned about. Sheldon is right - I
am a wiseass. Too bad it seems that RFC has met it's quota of
wiseasses... :-)

On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 14:21:04 -1000, dsi1 > wrote:
>
>To be honest, the first thing I'd use would be a UV-cured glue that I
>use daily in my profession but that stuff is not too available at most
>stores, however, it should be. :-)
>
AHA! You're a DENTIST! Get thee behind me and glue-teus maximus, you
foul driller of caries and mender of stoneware.

OBFood: Dinner tonight was a reheated homemade pizza I put together
earlier and froze a few days ago. It was okay, but not as good as
fresh.
--
modom

ambitious when it comes to fiddling with meat

On Jan 16, 8:30*pm, "modom (palindrome guy)" >
wrote:
> On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 14:21:04 -1000, dsi1 > wrote:
>
> >To be honest, the first thing I'd use would be a UV-cured glue that I
> >use daily in my profession but that stuff is not too available at most
> >stores, however, it should be. :-)
>
> AHA! You're a DENTIST! *Get thee behind me and glue-teus maximus, you
> foul driller of caries and mender of stoneware.

That's an excellent guess. WRONG! I repair small electronic devices.
I'm no mender of stoneware. I have, however, broken a lot of stoneware
and other ceramic and glass objects. You might say I have a talent for
this.

>
> OBFood: Dinner tonight was a reheated homemade pizza I put together
> earlier and froze a few days ago. *It was okay, but not as good as
> fresh.

I like to reheat pizza in a fry pan. Sometimes I'll flip it over and
fry the top - if I have a good non-stick surface in good condition.
Fried cheese is rather tasty. :-)

> --
> modom
>
> ambitious when it comes to fiddling with meat

Dan Abel wrote:
> > �dsi1 wrote:
> > Sheldon wrote:
>
> > > How is bonding smooth metal to smooth glass the
> > > same as bonding broken pottery... it's not. �You think
> > > you're a wise ass, but unfortunately for you you've no
> > > wisdom at all but you're all ass, all asshole.
>
> > I love this place! :-)
>
> Glad you can keep your sense of humor!

Passive-Aggressives don't possess a sense of humor.

l, not -l wrote:
> On 16-Jan-2009, dsi1 > wrote:
>
>> He's just another dude with a malevolent streak that always seem to
>> hang around NGs. Not much to be concerned about. Sheldon is right - I
>> am a wiseass. Too bad it seems that RFC has met it's quota of
>> wiseasses... :-)
>
> I can't confirm your hypothesis about wiseasses; however, I am absolutely
> convinced that RFC has more than enough dumbasses - most of whom use the
> same name.

<smile>

Try Elmer's China & Glass glue. I forget the exact name, but that is
close enough.

Becca