I was unloading the dishwasher, and I bumped two bowls together as I was
stacking them. It wasn't a huge impact, but it must have been just the
right shock in just the right spot, because it knocked a pinto-bean
sized chip out of the rim of one of them. Sad

I know it's not unique like people's prized coffee mugs or fine china (I
have 7 more bowls just like it). I know it's minor, and I know this will
only happen some more as time goes on, but it's just the sort of
insignificant thing that'll ruin my day. I rather liked having a whole
complete set of nice, new, intact dishes. For once.

Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
dishwasher just blow that piece off again?

Thanks.

phaeton > wrote:

>I was unloading the dishwasher, and I bumped two bowls together as I was
>stacking them. It wasn't a huge impact, but it must have been just the
>right shock in just the right spot, because it knocked a pinto-bean
>sized chip out of the rim of one of them. Sad

>I know it's not unique like people's prized coffee mugs or fine china (I
>have 7 more bowls just like it). I know it's minor, and I know this will
>only happen some more as time goes on, but it's just the sort of
>insignificant thing that'll ruin my day. I rather liked having a whole
>complete set of nice, new, intact dishes. For once.

>Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
>back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
>dishwasher just blow that piece off again?

I would not use superglue. I would use Elmer's glue, and clamp
it, and leave it a long time (like a week) before using it again.
I have done this to ceramic pieces and they stay glued
together indefinitely (many years). Plus Elmer's (what is
the generic name... white glue?) is reasonably non-toxic.

Steve

Steve Pope wrote:
Plus Elmer's (what is
> the generic name... white glue?) is reasonably non-toxic.

caseine? I don't think I spelled that right.

Janet Wilder wrote:
> Steve Pope wrote:
> Plus Elmer's (what is
>> the generic name... white glue?) is reasonably non-toxic.
>
> caseine? I don't think I spelled that right.

Real close. Casein, which is a protein derived from milk. That's
probably why you got yer cow on Elmer's glue. I did not know that casein
glues, that's plain old white glue, was waterproof. I like epoxy in this
application. :-)

dsi1 wrote:
>
> I like epoxy in this application. �

There are literally thousands of different epoxies, which?

On Jan 15, 11:41*am, Sheldon > wrote:
> dsi1 wrote:
>
> > I like epoxy in this application.
>
> There are literally thousands of different epoxies, which?

Really? Name 500. :-)

On Jan 15, 12:15*pm, "l, not -l" > wrote:
> On 15-Jan-2009, dsi1 > wrote:
>
> > Real close. Casein, which is a protein derived from milk. That's
> > probably why you got yer cow on Elmer's glue. I did not know that casein
> > glues, that's plain old white glue, was waterproof. I like epoxy in this
> > application. *:-)
>
> Once upon a time, casein was used in the making of plastic and has been used
> to make such diverse products as buttons and fountain pens. *While casein is
> somewhat water resistant, prolonged exposure, such as soaking a fountain pen
> barrel for hours to remove accumulated crud, will cause softening, swelling
> and distortion.
> --
> Change Cujo to Juno in email address.

So it's not waterproof, right? Sounds like casein plastic probably
predates bakelite. I like celluloid myself. :-)

I'm no glue expert but epoxy seems about right. Specifically the kind
that one sees on the racks in hardware stores. :-) OTOH, it's a lot
like gluing glass and therefore probably a tricky problem. Maybe one
could use that rear-view mirror glue stuff. They use that to glue a
metal slug to automotive glass windshields - I believe that to be a
type of CA glue. Looks like we'll never know unless someone does the
tests... that's the breaks.

On Jan 16, 4:23�am, dsi1 > wrote:
> On Jan 15, 12:15�pm, "l, not -l" > wrote:
>
> > On 15-Jan-2009, dsi1 > wrote:
>
> > > Real close. Casein, which is a protein derived from milk. That's
> > > probably why you got yer cow on Elmer's glue. I did not know that casein
> > > glues, that's plain old white glue, was waterproof. I like epoxy in this
> > > application. �:-)
>
> > Once upon a time, casein was used in the making of plastic and has been used
> > to make such diverse products as buttons and fountain pens. �While casein is
> > somewhat water resistant, prolonged exposure, such as soaking a fountain pen
> > barrel for hours to remove accumulated crud, will cause softening, swelling
> > and distortion.
> > --
> > Change Cujo to Juno in email address.
>
> So it's not waterproof, right? Sounds like casein plastic probably
> predates bakelite. I like celluloid myself. :-)
>
> I'm no glue expert but epoxy seems about right. Specifically the kind
> that one sees on the racks in hardware stores. :-) OTOH, it's a lot
> like gluing glass and therefore probably a tricky problem. Maybe one
> could use that rear-view mirror glue stuff. They use that to glue a
> metal slug to automotive glass windshields - I believe that to be a
> type of CA glue. Looks like we'll never know unless someone does the
> tests... that's the breaks.

How is bonding smooth metal to smooth glass the same as bonding broken
pottery... it's not. You think you're a wise ass, but unfortunately
for you you've no wisdom at all but you're all ass, all
asshole.

l, not -l wrote:
> On 16-Jan-2009, dsi1 > wrote:
>
>>> Once upon a time, casein was used in the making of plastic and has been
>>> used
>>> to make such diverse products as buttons and fountain pens. While
>>> casein is
>>> somewhat water resistant, prolonged exposure, such as soaking a fountain
>>> pen
>>> barrel for hours to remove accumulated crud, will cause softening,
>>> swelling
>>> and distortion.
>>> --
>>> Change Cujo to Juno in email address.
>> So it's not waterproof, right? Sounds like casein plastic probably
>> predates bakelite. I like celluloid myself. :-)
>
> Not waterproof; only water resistant for short periods. It was a
> contemporary of bakelite, but offered much greater color choices. Casein
> plastic is still used, just not anywhere near the extent it once was. I
> like celluloid for fountain pens - it has a good feel; but, like most
> materials, it too has issues, especially when 50-75 years old (don't we
> all).

I did not know that casein based plastics were still in use. I used to
have an assortment of celluloid guitar picks - they were beautiful. The
nylon and delrin or whatever the hell they're using these days are
pretty drab. I guess there's not much use for that colorful, explosive
plastic these days. :-)

As far as Elmer's glue goes, perhaps it could work. I don't know.
Generally, we'll use whatever glue we have around. What else can we do?
:-)

In article >,
(Steve Pope) wrote:

> phaeton > wrote:
>
> >I was unloading the dishwasher, and I bumped two bowls together as I was
> >stacking them. It wasn't a huge impact, but it must have been just the
> >right shock in just the right spot, because it knocked a pinto-bean
> >sized chip out of the rim of one of them. Sad
>
> >I know it's not unique like people's prized coffee mugs or fine china (I
> >have 7 more bowls just like it). I know it's minor, and I know this will
> >only happen some more as time goes on, but it's just the sort of
> >insignificant thing that'll ruin my day. I rather liked having a whole
> >complete set of nice, new, intact dishes. For once.
>
> >Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
> >back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
> >dishwasher just blow that piece off again?
>
> I would not use superglue. I would use Elmer's glue, and clamp
> it, and leave it a long time (like a week) before using it again.
> I have done this to ceramic pieces and they stay glued
> together indefinitely (many years). Plus Elmer's (what is
> the generic name... white glue?) is reasonably non-toxic.

Elmer's Glue is not waterproof. If you want to put it in the
dishwasher, you should use a waterproof glue. I assume you'd like
it to be microwave-safe too? A simple solution might be to stop
at a ceramics store (a place that sells pottery supplies, that is)
and ask what they'd recommend.

Mike Beede

In article >,
(Steve Pope) wrote:

> I would not use superglue. I would use Elmer's glue, and clamp
> it, and leave it a long time (like a week) before using it again.
> I have done this to ceramic pieces and they stay glued
> together indefinitely (many years). Plus Elmer's (what is
> the generic name... white glue?) is reasonably non-toxic.


Bad idea. Elmer's glue is water soluble.

Stan Horwitz wrote:
> > Steve Pope wrote:
>
> > I would not use superglue. �I would use Elmer's glue, and clamp
> > it, and leave it a long time (like a week) before using it again.
> > I have done this to ceramic pieces and they stay glued
> > together indefinitely (many years). �Plus Elmer's (what is
> > the generic name... white glue?) is reasonably non-toxic.
>
> Bad idea.

Interesting how folks make negative comments but offer no alternative.

> Elmer's glue is water soluble.

WRONG!

Elmer's makes many types of glue, some quite applicable for
*waterproof* ceramics repair. Elmers also makes industrial glues,
some used for repairing bathroom tile and outdoor concrete, readily
available at hardware emporiums.

Elmer's Nano Glue is probably their version of my glue of choice that
no home should be without, Gorilla Glue.

http://www.elmers.com/homerepair/products.asp

Stan Horwitz > wrote:

> (Steve Pope) wrote:

>> I would not use superglue. I would use Elmer's glue, and clamp
>> it, and leave it a long time (like a week) before using it again.
>> I have done this to ceramic pieces and they stay glued
>> together indefinitely (many years). Plus Elmer's (what is
>> the generic name... white glue?) is reasonably non-toxic.

>Bad idea. Elmer's glue is water soluble.

Elmer's glue is water soluable but after it sets for long
enough it can hold ceramic pieces together even if they
become wet. I've glued together a teapot with it without
mishap. It's necessary, I think, to let it dry out for a long
time (weeks or even months).

The stuff binds really well with ceramic.

Steve

On Jan 15, 1:08�pm, (Steve Pope) wrote:
> Stan Horwitz > wrote:
>
> > (Steve Pope) wrote:
> >> I would not use superglue. �I would use Elmer's glue, and clamp
> >> it, and leave it a long time (like a week) before using it again.
> >> I have done this to ceramic pieces and they stay glued
> >> together indefinitely (many years). �Plus Elmer's (what is
> >> the generic name... white glue?) is reasonably non-toxic.
> >Bad idea. Elmer's glue is water soluble.
>
> Elmer's glue is water soluable but after it sets for long
> enough it can hold ceramic pieces together even if they
> become wet. �I've glued together a teapot with it without
> mishap. �It's necessary, I think, to let it dry out for a long
> time (weeks or even months).
>
> The stuff binds really well with ceramic.

Which Elmer's glue, they make a large variety.

phaeton wrote:

> Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
> back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
> dishwasher just blow that piece off again?
>
> Thanks.

What do you have to lose trying?
Report back on the results.

In article >,
phaeton > wrote:

> Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
> back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea?

Sure. Why not?

> Will the dishwasher just blow that piece off again?


Not necessarily. Live dangerously‹try it. If it comes off, you've
wasted, what?, two minutes of your life?

> Thanks.
--
-Barb, Mother Superior, HOSSSPoJ
<http://www.caringbridge.org/visit/amytaylor>

phaeton wrote:
>
> I was unloading the dishwasher, and I bumped two bowls together as I was
> stacking them. It wasn't a huge impact, but it must have been just the
> right shock in just the right spot, because it knocked a pinto-bean
> sized chip out of the rim of one of them. Sad
>
> I know it's not unique like people's prized coffee mugs or fine china (I
> have 7 more bowls just like it). I know it's minor, and I know this will
> only happen some more as time goes on, but it's just the sort of
> insignificant thing that'll ruin my day. I rather liked having a whole
> complete set of nice, new, intact dishes. For once.
>
> Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
> back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
> dishwasher just blow that piece off again?

http://gorillaglue.com/glues/gorillaglue/index.aspx

On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 19:16:36 -0600, phaeton >
wrote:

>I was unloading the dishwasher, and I bumped two bowls together as I was
>stacking them. It wasn't a huge impact, but it must have been just the
>right shock in just the right spot, because it knocked a pinto-bean
>sized chip out of the rim of one of them. Sad
>
>I know it's not unique like people's prized coffee mugs or fine china (I
>have 7 more bowls just like it). I know it's minor, and I know this will
>only happen some more as time goes on, but it's just the sort of
>insignificant thing that'll ruin my day. I rather liked having a whole
>complete set of nice, new, intact dishes. For once.
>
>Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
>back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
>dishwasher just blow that piece off again?
>
>Thanks.

Super glue really isn't the strongest product. Try a nail supply
store and spring for a couple of bucks for something like this. I've
repaired coffee cup handles that have lasted many years.

http://www.enailsupply.com/index.asp...OD&ProdID=2328

Lou

phaeton wrote:
> I was unloading the dishwasher, and I bumped two bowls together as I
> was stacking them. It wasn't a huge impact, but it must have been
> just the right shock in just the right spot, because it knocked a
> pinto-bean sized chip out of the rim of one of them. Sad
>
> I know it's not unique like people's prized coffee mugs or fine china
> (I have 7 more bowls just like it). I know it's minor, and I know
> this will only happen some more as time goes on, but it's just the
> sort of insignificant thing that'll ruin my day. I rather liked
> having a whole complete set of nice, new, intact dishes. For once.
>
> Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
> back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
> dishwasher just blow that piece off again?
>
> Thanks.

It doesn't hurt to have a small wardrobe of glue varieties on hand. Go to
Wal-Mart or similar store and spend 5 minutes reading the bottles of
adhesives. There are products that a especially suited to the kind of
repair you want to make.
Janet

phaeton wrote:
>
> I was unloading the dishwasher, and I bumped two bowls together as I was
> stacking them. It wasn't a huge impact, but it must have been just the
> right shock in just the right spot, because it knocked a pinto-bean
> sized chip out of the rim of one of them. Sad
>
> I know it's not unique like people's prized coffee mugs or fine china (I
> have 7 more bowls just like it). I know it's minor, and I know this will
> only happen some more as time goes on, but it's just the sort of
> insignificant thing that'll ruin my day. I rather liked having a whole
> complete set of nice, new, intact dishes. For once.
>
> Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
> back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
> dishwasher just blow that piece off again?
>
> Thanks.


There are specialist food-safe glues for ceramics. Look it up online or
go to a ceramic hobby shop and ask. Superglue isn't terribly
water-stable.

On Jan 14, 10:11�pm, "l, not -l" > wrote:
> On 14-Jan-2009, phaeton > wrote:
>
> > Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
> > back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
> > dishwasher just blow that piece off again?
>
> > Thanks.
>
> Superglue does not hold up well long-term in damp/wet applications. �

Superglue also doesn't do well on porous surfaces... but then let's
not be too quick, by now Super Glue might make many versions.

> Epoxy would be a better choice than superglue.

Again, there are many, many versions of epoxies with different
properties.

For repairing ceramics I can highly recommend Gorrila Glue... from
personal experience I know it is not only waterproof (easily survives
auto dishwashers), also survives baking oven temps. Gorilla Glue
(like most glues) works best when clamped during curing... how to
clamp a chip on a dish is the real problem... In certain situations
I've had good results with heavy rubberbands, I've even applied
tourniquets.

Sheldon wrote:
> On Jan 14, 10:11�pm, "l, not -l" > wrote:
>> On 14-Jan-2009, phaeton > wrote:
>>
>>> Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
>>> back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
>>> dishwasher just blow that piece off again?
>>> Thanks.
>> Superglue does not hold up well long-term in damp/wet applications. �
>
> Superglue also doesn't do well on porous surfaces... but then let's
> not be too quick, by now Super Glue might make many versions.
>
>> Epoxy would be a better choice than superglue.
>
> Again, there are many, many versions of epoxies with different
> properties.
>
> For repairing ceramics I can highly recommend Gorrila Glue... from
> personal experience I know it is not only waterproof (easily survives
> auto dishwashers), also survives baking oven temps. Gorilla Glue
> (like most glues) works best when clamped during curing... how to
> clamp a chip on a dish is the real problem... In certain situations
> I've had good results with heavy rubberbands, I've even applied
> tourniquets.
>
How long does it need to cure? I have a lovely, handmade plate,
that I'd love to glue back together.

--
Jean B.

On Jan 15, 9:51�am, "Jean B." > wrote:
> Sheldon wrote:
> > On Jan 14, 10:11 pm, "l, not -l" > wrote:
> >> On 14-Jan-2009, phaeton > wrote:
>
> >>> Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
> >>> back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
> >>> dishwasher just blow that piece off again?
> >>> Thanks.
> >> Superglue does not hold up well long-term in damp/wet applications.
>
> > Superglue also doesn't do well on porous surfaces... but then let's
> > not be too quick, by now Super Glue might make many versions.
>
> >> Epoxy would be a better choice than superglue.
>
> > Again, there are many, many versions of epoxies with different
> > properties.
>
> > For repairing ceramics I can highly recommend Gorrila Glue... from
> > personal experience I know it is not only waterproof (easily survives
> > auto dishwashers), also survives baking oven temps. �Gorilla Glue
> > (like most glues) works best when clamped during curing... how to
> > clamp a chip on a dish is the real problem... In certain situations
> > I've had good results with heavy rubberbands, I've even applied
> > tourniquets.
>
> How long does it need to cure? �I have a lovely, handmade plate,
> that I'd love to glue back together.

Gorrila Glue fully cures in 24 hours... their web site is very
informative, I strongly suggest reading every word. Gorrilla Glue
expands as it cures so use about half as much as you think you
need.... make sure the surfaces are clean, free of loose debris, and
dampen one surface with water, place glue on dry surface, spread with
a toothpic (check out your clamping method prior to gluing). For home
use I suggest buying the smallest size, it dosen't have a very long
shelf life, about two years... and as with all these types of glues
squeeze the air out of the bottle before capping, also a good Idea to
then store bottle upside down.

Sheldon wrote:
> On Jan 15, 9:51�am, "Jean B." > wrote:
>> Sheldon wrote:
>>> On Jan 14, 10:11 pm, "l, not -l" > wrote:
>>>> On 14-Jan-2009, phaeton > wrote:
>>>>> Anyways...... I have superglue, and I could glue the biggest fragment
>>>>> back in to make it 'less noticeable'. But is it a good idea? Will the
>>>>> dishwasher just blow that piece off again?
>>>>> Thanks.
>>>> Superglue does not hold up well long-term in damp/wet applications.
>>> Superglue also doesn't do well on porous surfaces... but then let's
>>> not be too quick, by now Super Glue might make many versions.
>>>> Epoxy would be a better choice than superglue.
>>> Again, there are many, many versions of epoxies with different
>>> properties.
>>> For repairing ceramics I can highly recommend Gorrila Glue... from
>>> personal experience I know it is not only waterproof (easily survives
>>> auto dishwashers), also survives baking oven temps. �Gorilla Glue
>>> (like most glues) works best when clamped during curing... how to
>>> clamp a chip on a dish is the real problem... In certain situations
>>> I've had good results with heavy rubberbands, I've even applied
>>> tourniquets.
>> How long does it need to cure? �I have a lovely, handmade plate,
>> that I'd love to glue back together.
>
> Gorrila Glue fully cures in 24 hours... their web site is very
> informative, I strongly suggest reading every word. Gorrilla Glue
> expands as it cures so use about half as much as you think you
> need.... make sure the surfaces are clean, free of loose debris, and
> dampen one surface with water, place glue on dry surface, spread with
> a toothpic (check out your clamping method prior to gluing). For home
> use I suggest buying the smallest size, it dosen't have a very long
> shelf life, about two years... and as with all these types of glues
> squeeze the air out of the bottle before capping, also a good Idea to
> then store bottle upside down.
>
Thanks. The main problem will be clamping. I really wish I had
my dad's clamps!!!!

--
Jean B.

"Jean B." wrote:
>
> Thanks. �The main problem will be clamping. �I really wish I had
> my dad's clamps!!!!

With broken crockery ther eare typically no flat or parrallel
susrfaces so the standard screw/spring type clamping tools probably
won't help... most likely you'll need to devise something by taping
the pieces to wooden splints and applying pressure with rubberbands...
often you'll need to use something as a weight (bag of sand) and rely
on good old gravity. In extreme cases you may need to create a ridgid
form to hold the pieces in position while applying pressure, like a
hunk of styrofoam.