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Cooking Equipment (rec.food.equipment) Discussion of food-related equipment. Includes items used in food preparation and storage, including major and minor appliances, gadgets and utensils, infrastructure, and food- and recipe-related software. |
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>> We recently had to have the Dacor repair guy come when one of our ovens stopped heating. It turns out the Dacor oven draws in
>> fresh air through vents by the handle next to the electronics area. >> If you leave the door open for a long time with a hot oven, (or while broiling) it ends up sucking the hot air from the oven >> cavity, thru the airlet, over the electronics area... and a sensor shuts the oven down as to prevent damage to the electronic >> components. It's easy to reset the breaker (it looks like a microswitch) The tech said this is common problem and they were >> pushing Dacor to re-design this to avoid sucking hot air into the electronics which trips the overtemp breaker. The above data is a cut-and-paste snip taken from an old post. I also have an older Dacor oven (the Millennia model MCS230). Last night we were broiling with the door open (to make sure the cooking process didn't get away from us). We soon noticed the heating elementa were no longer glowing red. NET: Our oven no longer heats up. None of the elements turn on! Can anyone out there that can explain where I can find the reset switch? How to access it? (The best way to access it) My guess is the reset button is mounted on the control panel... but it would nice to verify before I start the dismantle. Any help / hints on how to remove the control panel... and a description of where to find the reset button would be apprciated. Thanks Don |
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Okay... when nobody responded to my post I had to go exploring on my
own. I finally found it!. I spent a the better part of a day removing every screw and panel I could find. Now that I know the location of the reset switch I can get to in less than 5 minutes. By the way... before my Dacor elements stopped heating our oven had been working fine for sevearl years. One night we decided to "broil on Hi" with the door open so we could monitor the cooking. We had the oven rack in the number three position so it wouldn't cook to fast. After about 20 minutes of cooking "BINK" went the safety switch and the oven shut down. Okay... now on to the fix. FIRST: Shut off the power/circuit feeding power to your oven. Open the oven door that is located directly below the control panel / LED display. In the area above the oven opening but below the control panel you should see a series of horizontal slots. These are the slots where the oven pulls in the air for the convection process as well as allowing the cooler outside air to pass over the oven electronics. If you examine the piece of metal with all the cooling slots cut in it you should be able to see all the screws that hold it in place. Mine had eight (8) screws. Six were easily accessed straight in from the front, two were vertical in that they were screwed up into the bottom edge (underside) of the control panel. Once all the screws are out the piece of sheet metal should pull free. There is no need to remove the control panel! NOTE: From this point on I will describe were I found "my" reset switch. Yours may or may not be in the same immediate vicinity. Clarification: I was looking for a Micro switch. Micro misled me to think the switch would be real small. I spent way too much time studying each electronic component on the system board trying to decide which one might be the reset switch. Once your piece of sheet metal is removed.... look into the cavity. You will see an assortment of wires and the electronics board. FACT: The micro switch "is not" on the electronics board , nor is it on the control panel,. (Nor is it very micro.) To help you visually locate the switch... understand the switch is mounted standalone (all by itself). It's not on a board or part of any other assembly. Now... get a mental image of a 25 cent piece (a US quarter). Imagine the quarter is lying flat on the table (heads or tails doesn't matter) In the dead center of the quarter, imagine a purple or red push button that is about the size of a pencil eraser. (1/4 inch in diameter) This is the reset button. On each side of the reset button are two terminals with a black wire attached to each of the terminals. NET: The reset button is nestled "between" the two wires. Be aware the wires make it hard to see the reset button itself. Next, also imagine the quarter is about one half inch thick. Last... imagine the quarter is now standing vertically on its edge. Because the quarter is standing on its edge, you will need to push the reset button in with a movement parallel to the floor (like ringing a doorbell) rather than being able to push it straight down like you might if the switch was laying flat . This round vertically oriented switch body is mounted on a metal bracket and the metal bracket is screwed to the top of the oven. The entire switch and mounting bracket are only about one inch tall and one inch wide by one half inch thick. The round portion of the switch body is silver (metallic) on one side and black on the other. In my oven, the switch assembly was mounted just left of center in about 6 inches from the front edge. Push the reset button... NOTE: You might want to turn the power back on and test the elements for heating before putting the panel back on. Don Task |
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