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Thanks for your answer. It is more than I ever expected.
My appreciation. Dee "Alex Rast" > wrote in message ... > at Tue, 14 Dec 2004 20:22:49 GMT in >, > deedoveyatshenteldotnet (Dee Randall) wrote : > >>What brand of 70% bittersweet (dark) chocolate would make a good >>truffle/ganache/chocolate sauce? >> >>I have tried Scharffenberger, but am looking for a less fruitty >>chocolate, not more than $11 a pound. > > Almost any chocolate will be less fruity than Scharffen Berger, but FWIW I > agree that, in general, a fruity chocolate doesn't make for the best > truffles, or sauce, for that matter. Actually, you want something a little > different for truffles and for sauce. In the truffle range, you can get by > with a more nuanced, mild flavour, because there's much more chocolate in > the mix. With sauces, OTOH, you want a powerful flavour because the higher > dilution means you need the strength to make the chocolate flavour stand > out. With sauce, however, you can also get by with a lower cocoa butter > content, because you've got so much more fluid, generally at a lower fat > content anyway, to smooth out the mixture. > > For low fruitiness, you want a darker roast. Now, if a roast is *very* > dark, it can make truffles seem a little "flat", but definitely you want > the roast to be darker than the (underroasted?) Scharffen Berger. > > The $11/lb restriction makes your choices *very* limited. Most of the > better chocolates are more than that, even if only a little bit more. > At the $11/lb price, you're more or less limiting yourself to domestic > producers. And that pretty much means you're limiting yourself to Guittard > and Ghirardelli, if you want quality chocolate. Guittard is superb overall > - IMHO far better than Scharffen Berger, but their best chocolates come in > the 60-65% class. Ghirardelli doesn't list their cocoa solids percentage. > The Bittersweet chocolate they produce is very good, but so nearly > identical to Callebaut that it's hard to tell them apart. So if you really > do want to stay under $11/lb, for truffles, yet want a different flavour, > perhaps the only option you have left is Guittard Coucher du Soleil 72%. > Be > aware that there's still some fruitiness to it. > > If you can accept a loss of actual cocoa solids percentage, then an > outstanding choice is Guittard Gourmet Bittersweet. It's 63% cocoa solids, > but possesses an unusual intensity for that percentage that really makes > it > a lot stronger than typical chocolates in its range. I use it as my > "standard" ganache chocolate - it's incredibly versatile, being excellent > across the entire range from truffles to sauce. > > For sauce only, you have another good choice : El Rey Gran Saman. This has > a low cocoa butter content, and for that reason isn't the best for > truffles, but for sauce it has knockout power and a great, tropical/earthy > flavour. > > Now, if you want to expand your horizons into the $20/lb range, your > options open up immensely. Michel Cluizel, perhaps the best single > chocolatier in the world (at least IMHO) has a world-class entry in Amer > Brut 72%. Cote D'Or and Dolfin each make chocolates that are almost as > good, although with the Cluizel available for a lower price thanks to the > fact that you can get it in a bulk format as opposed to the other 2, only > found in bars, it sort of begs the question as to why. Valrhona's Araguani > is good for truffles, with a delicate flavour, not so fruity as the > typical > Valrhona either. I wouldn't recommend this one for sauce, though. > > There are other chocolates that offer various balances of flavour and > roast > , if you're ready to spend the big bucks, but of course prices quickly get > out of hand and I'm with you - when it comes to truffles and sauces, > *some* > cost control is desirable, especially when the extra price doesn't really > buy you better quality, just different, generally more characterised, > flavour characteristics. > > -- > Alex Rast > > (remove d., .7, not, and .NOSPAM to reply) |
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