NEW YEARS EVE - Robuchon (Tokyo) and a nearby bar (12/31/2005)

For New Years Eve, we headed to Robuchon's Tokyo outpost with Cathryn's
parents and her brother and sister-in-law.

1. Starting Out

Amuse of apple pearls with vodka granitée
Ossetra caviar in a lobster gelée with cauliflower cream

*N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Rosé Brut Première Cuvée - France,
Champagne, Reims, Champagne*

Light, only slightly more than salmon color, with elegant small mousse.
Nose leads with light strawberries with a little apple underneath. With
further time, a little chalky mineral and a mixed bouquet of flowers
turn up. On the palate, it is similar with light berry fruit buoyed by
great crisp acidity and a mineral streak. The slightest hint of
structure shows up in the finish. This is beautifully light and elegant
- almost evanescent except that the finish lingers and the pleasure
lasts. Decidedly refined for a house pour! I like it.

2. And When the White Comes...

Tuna tartare with red pepper and bergamote oil
Foie gras on a bed of parmesan spelt risotto
Crustacés with amadai (Japanese sea bream-like fish) in saffron
bouillon with just a touch of rouille

There was great disappointment here, as there was a '90 Chave Hermitage
Blanc on the list for $165. However, it had sold out and they had
failed to update the list. Why is the steal of the list always gone
when I get there???

*1999 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de
Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet*

Enticingly bright straw yellow. Nose immediately shows the oak, which
takes a bit of time to step back and let a beautiful floral apple and
lemon nose come forward. The nose combines bright, fresh wild stream
stoniness and citrus acid with a prettiness to the fruit that promises
a lot to come. This is still very young, as the beauty and stoniness
take at least 20 minutes to come to the fore and are always threatening
to hide behind the oak and apple fruit again. On the palate, a great
richness that is absolutely fresh and stony bright in a way that only
Puligny can be. A very young but enticing village effort that needs at
least another five years to begin to show its best. Most producers
should be proud to make a première cru of this caliber.

3. And One More Round...

Thin-sliced boeuf rôti with a mille-feuille of gratinéed potato
Assorted cheeses (including Rocquefort, Epoisses, Comté on my plate)

I was in charge of ordering wine but not of deciding whether we had a
dessert wine, so there was nothing to go with the citron crème or the
soufflé.

*1989 Robert Ampeau & Fils Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavieres 1er Cru -
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune*

Very light burgundy red, fading to orange at the rim. Decanted and
served immediately, this was wide open for business. Out of the gate,
the nose showed pretty aromas of purple flower, sweet cherry and
raspberry, and pine forest floor. The palate still maintained good
acidity, but had given up any semblance of tannin. There was a nice bit
of sweet fruit up front, but it had lost a good bit of density. While
the mid-palate didn't fall away, it was definitely more about flowery
elegance and soft sweet fruit than about power or body. Showed a bit of
breed and depth on a finish that was a little longer than expected and
left a nice haunting violet-like scent. Would have been overmatched by
a heavier preparation, but stood up well to the lighter beef dish and
did a great job of working throughout the meal for the two non-white
wine drinkers at the table. Enjoyable, pretty, and sneaky long on the
finish. I suspect this never had a lot more body and concentration than
it does now. Still, I'd rather drink this with food than any number
of ostensibly "better" wines in their youth.

4. And Midnight Comes...

We headed down the street to a bar to ring in the new year with...

*N.V. Gosset Champagne Brut Grand Reserve - France, Champagne*

A bright yellow-gold with small persistent mousse. From the beginning,
this is very much a Champagne that is about celebration rather than
food - a great choice for the midnight toast. Nose shows a bit of
sweet vanilla, along with ripe apple, fig, and yeasty bread. Palate is
round and creamy with very rich apple pie fruit enriched by mocha,
apricot confit, and baking spice. Great density and richness,
complexity, and hedonism. Again, seems more like a celebration wine
than a food wine, but perfect for the moment. A new category of house
wine for me - "toasting wine" - is likely to find this first up
in the rotation.

No need for a food review in a wine forum, but a few quick comments:

(1) Food was excellent and beautifully executed, but lacked
inspiration.
(2) There were a few smudges on some serving pieces that just didn't
match with the setting, price, and aspirations of the retaurant.
(3) Service was oddly inconsistent. Terrible wine service (courses
served unbidden before wine was ordered or aperitifs finished, list not
up to date, sommelier had no idea about the wines on his list), but
very attentive table service. They noticed my father-in-law was
left-handed and reversed every setting for him after the amuse.

Enjoyed it, but there are experiences that are much better in terms of
both food and service for the same money in Tokyo.

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