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TN: Chevillon rises from dead, Kosta-Browne, Ramsay, etc
On Tuesday Betsy's piano-trio-mates arrived from NC for some rehearsal.
That evening the pianist and Betsy headed to CT to visit their former violinist and her new baby, and I stayed home with leftovers (hot dogs, salads, etc). There was a jug of 2003 Three Thieves Zinfandel (California). that had been opened Monday but I hadn't sampled. Nice easy red-berry fruit, a peppery spice, and clean if simple finish. Good value. B Wednesday the trio was at our place for dinner, some mutual friends (jazz musicians, but had taught together ) joined us. With a smoked salmon appetizer, we had the 2004 Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). One guest loved it and called it "smoky", I didn't get that. What I got was some distinct gooseberry fruit with a touch of gauva, and some good acidity. Just a hint of jalapeno on finish. Not a bad kiwi SB, but this is priced at $15, and I'm more satisfied with some cheaper ones such as the Cairnbrae Stones. B I seared peppered duck breast on the grill, then Betsy finished in oven as I grilled figs for the sauce. We also grilled some baby eggplant and mushrooms, and Bets made a delicious dandelion, tomato, and green bean salad with an anchovy/basil dressing. The duck recipe was intended as a match for a Northern Rhone, so I opened the 1999 Jaboulet "Les Jalets" Crozes-Hermitage. My candidate for the most bottle variation (excluding things like secondary fermentations or bad corks) ever, this wine has been perplexing me for years. The bottles have ranged from almost undrinkably acidic and thin, through ho-hum Crozes, to one bottle that could have been mistaken for a mid-tier Hermitage blind. This one showed some blackberry fruit and a bit of Rhonish smoke and meat (if I stretched), but finish was short and ultimately this was a simpler Syrah. B- 2001 Domaine d'Andezon C=F4tes du Rh=F4ne Hey, this CdR (I believe all Syrah) is a dead ringer for the Crozes. Dark berry fruit, etc. etc. At one point I can't remember which is in glass, and wonder does it really matter?I've had better showings of this. B- We also had some Pinot: 1988 Chevillon "Les Perrieres" Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru I opened this with trepidation, already plotting my return of the bottle. The guy at Park Avenue Liquor had said it was returnable - they had mixed results on some other '88 Chevillons acquired at same time. Good clean cork, just soaked at one end - that's encouraging. Hmm. Rather thin cherry fruit, some dead leaves. Not looking so good. 30 minutes later I return, there seems to be some improvement, as the fruit has strengthened and the earthiness is more apparent. I decide to go ahead and pour. Rather remarkable turnaround - light but clear black cherry fruit, distinct earth and mushroom aromas, a pleasant light gamey funk overlying the whole package. Popular around the table, not a great Burg but certainly a credible (and intact) one. A-/B+ 2002 Ramsay North Coast Pinot Noir This is rather industrial tasting Pinot- vanilla oakchip over cherry cola fruit. Aggressive but not interesting, not my cuppa. B-/C+ 2002 Kosta-Browne Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir This is a touch Syrah-ish, but pleasant. Rather intense (almost bizarre) nose of herbs, with some apparent VA. But on the palate the herbal notes are more integrated with the blackberry/cherry fruit. A bit tannic for PN, but I do like the clear almost spiky acidity. B/B+ Nice evening. Finished (before a fruit tart) with a cheese plate- Roaring 40s (a Stilton-like Aussie I recently "met"), Great Hill blue, Keen's cheddar from Neal's Yard, Bobolink Drumm, and Bobolink's aged cheddar. I enjoyed the cheddars with the reds. Amazingly to my tastes, a couple others say they love the blue cheese with the Pinots. I find the combination......challenging. But to each his/her own! Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency |
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DaleW wrote:
> We also had some Pinot: > 1988 Chevillon "Les Perrieres" Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru > I opened this with trepidation, already plotting my return of the > bottle. The guy at Park Avenue Liquor had said it was returnable - they > had mixed results on some other '88 Chevillons acquired at same time. > Good clean cork, just soaked at one end - that's encouraging. Hmm. > Rather thin cherry fruit, some dead leaves. Not looking so good. 30 > minutes later I return, there seems to be some improvement, as the > fruit has strengthened and the earthiness is more apparent. I decide to > go ahead and pour. Rather remarkable turnaround - light but clear > black cherry fruit, distinct earth and mushroom aromas, a pleasant > light gamey funk overlying the whole package. Popular around the table, > not a great Burg but certainly a credible (and intact) one. A-/B+ Thanks for the notes, Dale. As you may remember, Jean purchased 4 of the '88 Vaucrains at auction a while back. Based on what you found, I think that we'll give one a prolonged airing soon... Mark Lipton |
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