Hi,

This is the article I promised Dick I'd write. In passing, I'll try to
address some of the inconsistencies of experience between those who taste
regularly ad professionally, claiming corked wines amount to 5 to 15% of the
total, and those of us who have our collections of old bottles and find
nothing like that proportion.

1. Many of us are pretty insensitive to TCA pollution or rather fail to
recognise it as such, and therefore don't recognise a wine IS corked when it
is.

Having said that many of us don't recognise TCA, I think we have all
experienced bottles where the wine simply doesn't "show" as well as we
expected it to. I guess (pure speculation on my part, but I would submit
from my own experience that it is probably valid) that in many cases, this
is due to TCA in quantities below _our_ capacity to recognise it. Someone
more sensitive might well. This has certainly happened once, in a tasting
with Mark and Andrew in New Zealand. I also DID detect it on a heavily
corked bottle that had Mark rearing away in disgust. Subsequently I detected
it during a blind tasting (of corks vs other closures) in Bordeaux. This
personal experience makes me suspect that I am not as totally insensitive as
I'd thought I was. The corrolary of that, of course, is that I must have
VERY rarely been exposed to TCA previously in [detectable-by-me] quantities.

2. TCA pollution has grown in proportion in recent years. 30 to 40 years
ago, it certainly existed, but was very rare.

This will explain to some extent why those of us who mainly drink fully
mature long aged wines will have experienced many fewer cases of corked
wines than professionals such as Michael Pronay, and others here. These
wines haven't yet passed into our "drinking now" category.

Furthermore, I've seen winery owners claim that by being ultra fussy about
where they buy their corks from, they have very few - if any - cases of
corked wines. I take these claims with a pretty large pinch of salt, but I
think it would be a mistake to reject such evidence out of hand. Why?

Corks are sold under a plethora of quality ranges. The prices vary widely
and the supply of the very best is strictly limited. I have no reason to
believe that corks made from fully mature trees and using great care in
selection, do not have a lower degree of contamination, though this would be
random and variable. I think this is almost the only explanation as to WHY
experiences very, and WHY the levels of contamination have grown. Demand for
cork has spiralled beyond the wildest expectation of the manufacturers, and
there was no WAY it could have been predicted 40 or 50 years ago, when cork
oaks would have had to have been planted to give adequate supplies of top
quality corks now. So more - perhaps most - cork is produced nowadays from
immature trees, and from less propitious areas.

If we look at the production of cork, one thing stands out above all others.
Cork, being produced by trees, will vary, depending upon many factors. I
have seen many suggestions as to how and why cork becomes polluted with TCA.
The most convincing suggestion I've seen so far, is that it is a combination
of the presence of chlorine (used to bleach and sterilise the cork) and
bacterial infection. I have also seen it said that cork taken from younger
trees is more prone to TCA pollution, though I don't know how speculative
this assertion was.

I don't know whether any of this chlorine is present naturally - common salt
consists of 45/68ths chlorine as a chloride, though normally this is pretty
stable and I'd not expect free chlorine to be present from sea salt, I
daresay that some hypothetical bacterial driven redox reaction might be able
to give measurable quantities, but I doubt it is could be a serious
contender for the supply.

Remembering that the major suppliers of cork are in Portugal and, I think,
Slovenia (?) neither of which are renowned as highly developed and
industrialised countries, I can well imagine that research into alternative
methods of sterilising cork has been at best spotty.

Assuming that all cork manufacturers are still processing - faute de mieux -
cork with chlorine, then although this is probably the prime cause, it
doesn't seem to be felt by the manufacturers to practicable at the moment,
despite the intense threat to the industry by Stelvin, to eliminate it.

So we are left with the other factors which seem a bit vague. "Bacterial
infection", "younger trees". Time will solve the second hypothetical cause,
though it seems to me to be doubtful that the wine industry is prepared to
wait for the "younger trees" to become old enough, or for the cork industry
to eliminate chlorine.

Where do we go from here?

Although the quantities are minute, compared with traditional (bottles)
containers, flexible multiple ply plastic bags with taps work very well
indeed for wines to be drunk within say 3 to 4 months of filling. Given the
proportion of wines (bought in bottles) drunk within a week of purchase, I
would suggest that this method will see a huge expansion. It deserves to. I
have not detected taint of any kind in this type of container.

Another possibility would be to use cans. I have seen wine marketed in this
way, but so far, it has been very much lower end wine.

Turning back to bottles, the alternatives to cork are three fold, I think.
a) Crown caps (as used for aging champagne),
b) synthetic cork shaped closures, which theoretically can be opened with
corkscrews,
c)Stelvin or other screwcap.

On the surface, and from the point of view of the wine maker, b) seems to
have all the advantages, as they can use their existing bottling lines, and
just change their supplier of "corks". However, all the information I've
seen has agreed that these plastic closures lead to other off flavours in
the wine. So for a serious wine maker, it is no solution to substitute one
contaminating closure for another.

That leaves crown caps and Stelvin. Both are costly solutions. In both
cases, the winemaker would have to change his bottling line to adopt them
and this is a serious investment to envisage. That said, it is perfectly
possible that, just as there are mobile cork based bottling lines which
travel around the wineries, so there will be mobile bottling plants using
crown caps or screw caps. It is also true that small producers can even hand
seal using crown caps, I've done it myself for beer.

What is certain is that as more and more ordinary wine is bottled either
exclusively under synthetic closures, or as an optional extra, so consumer
acceptance will grow. It's FAR easier to unscrew Stelvin or even to rip off
a crown cap, than to pull a cork - they stick, they crumble, they break up,
they break in half, there's a whole litany of problems that accompany
pulling a cork. In at least one supermarket in the UK, they won't buy ANY
wine not under synthetic closures. Consumer law in the UK rightly gives the
consumer the right to expect to buy a product of "merchantable quality", and
gives her/him the right to seek remedy at the point of sale. A corked bottle
ISN'T of merchantable quality, and even if only 10% of clients come back
seeking recompense, this still represents far too great a proportion of
returns to be acceptable, not when the solution exists.

I think that in many countries, we're approaching a cusp where it will be as
unthinkable for the consumers in that country that a winery should NOT offer
wines under screw cap, as it is at present for corks. I hope so, because
While not ALL TCA pollution is cork borne, best estimates suggest that 90%
of it is. Elimination of THAT part would enable winery managers and
consumers to put their finger on exactly how serious winery and barrel borne
infection really is.

When consumer acceptance is virtually universal (except in France, of
course) for "ordinary" wines, then two possibilities arise. It could well be
that the reduction of pressure for cork closures world wide will finally
allow the manufacturers to reduce the proportion of TCA contaminated corks
to a sufficiently low level for them to be acceptable again. They could then
find a "niche" market at the top end, for people who still want to age
wines for >40 years and believe that cork is the "way to go". I find a
parallel in HiFi, where valve based amps and direct cut vinyl have kept a
market, while the great mass of the offer has moved on. Given that corks can
be inserted using small scale machinery, this would be perfectly possible. I
worked at this in a holiday job some 40 years ago, so I know that it is
perfectly possible for one man to bottle a barrel in about an hour, allowing
abt 20 seconds a bottle.

Another possibility is that winemakers, who have installed Stelvin or other
alternative screw cap or crown cap bottling lines, for the lower end wines,
designed to be drunk young, simply abandon corks, even at the top end. I'll
not weep tears for the cork manufacturers, who didn't take the problem of
TCA seriously enough for >20 years. What THEY'll have to do is to find
alternative uses for the raw material. It is still excellent for many things
where there is no food contact.

--
All the Best
Ian Hoare
http://www.souvigne.com
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