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TN: 1998 R Mondavi Napa PN
With all of the R Mondavi comments, as well as the Pinot Noir threads, I
dredged up a 1998 R Mondavi Napa Pinot for dinner. Now, for those, who did not grow up in the Deep South of the US, please disregard the next paragraph, or better, do not read it, at all. My wife had gotten word that a local purveyor was going to have fresh catfish filets, so she went back and picked them up, when they arrived. She did a pecan-crusted coating, and double-dipped the filets. In accompaniment, she did fresh mixed greens, black-eyed peas, and her interpretation of Mark Miller's cornbread, sans jalapeños. This is not exactly a wine-friendly menu, but for me, the earthiness of the catfish nearly always calls for a PN, and I had this last bottle of the ‘98 R Mondavi Napa in the cellar. Here we have fried catfish, greens with ham, black-eyed peas with pepper vinegar, and a slightly sweet cornbread —not a group of foods and forward tastes, that call for a light wine. Well, served initially, at cellar temp, 55 F, the Mondavi PN was nice and smooth. It was a light brick-red. There was a definite meniscus which was a pure pink —no clear liquid, at all. The color did not belie the body of this wine. This was a medium-bodied PN, and still showing well. I had many more examples of the Mondavi Carneros PN's, but this was part of a half-case of their Napa, that I had picked up upon release, and the last bottle. I'm not sure of the source of these grapes, but they do not appear to be Carneros, as there is no mention of that sub-appellation anywhere. Tasted in a Riedel Vinum Burgundy balloon, the wine had definite cherry elements—Rainier cherries, not the dark, or black variety. There was a slightly herbal element, but I could not place it in the beginning. The mouthfeel was very smooth, as I'd expect from a quality PN with a few years of cellar time. The finish was medium, with not an edge of any sort. The tannins were very light and well integrated. The level of acidity was medium. When the food was served, I was wishing that I'd opted for a younger Carneros, or Santa Rita Hills fruit-bomb, or a Syrah, or even a Zin. Was I ever wrong. The earthiness in the catfish went well with the PN, especially after a few extra minutes in the glass. A damp leaf (not earth in this example) element crept into the wine, reminding me of hiking in the Appalachians in the Fall with a heavy mist. Now we had a good marriage. The black-eyed peas, even with the pepper vinegar went well—obviously an earthy element again. OK, the greens were neutral, but I had no complaints. The cornbread was superb with the wine. After the meal, I worked with the PN some more, and that herbal element revealed itself as eucalyptus, though without the mint note, that I usually associate with that taste. All in all, this PN was a very nice example of an older CA PN, and was still holding its own. There was a lot more to this wine, than I had expected, when I first poured it. Now, had this been a DRC, regardless of color, I'd have expected the tight tastes, and firm body, but this was a CA PN, for goodness sakes, and one that I would have assumed to be past its prime. I could not have made a better choice for accompaniment for this eclectic meal, had I done extensive tastings. Reference was made on the back label about 1998 being a small El Niño year, and all that it brought to the vineyards. Unfortunately, no mention was made of the exact location from which the grapes were sourced. Other than the eucalyptus note, I found no trace of the "spices" referenced, but they were probably much more notable when the wine was younger. I could not find any TN's on the previous bottles. The "cherries," did darken a bit, as I tasted through the evening, from Rainier, through a medium black. By the end of the tasting, the wine was decidedly beginning to fade, but it had requited itself very well. I only wish that I'd had enough folk over to open a Domaine Drouhin, and maybe a Carneros PN, just to do a side-by-side. Regardless, a pleasant experience, and somewhat unexpected. I didn't pull this bottle up from the database, when I began writing, but I feel that it was in the US$25.00 range. If I find out differently, I'll append. Hunt |
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