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Wine (alt.food.wine) Devoted to the discussion of wine and wine-related topics. A place to read and comment about wines, wine and food matching, storage systems, wine paraphernalia, etc. In general, any topic related to wine is valid fodder for the group. |
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First, a big thanks to those who gave notes to my Austrian wine
classifications. They were really helpful. So here is my write-up describing the different grapes, some really specific to Austria, but many known worldwide. There are often raging debates about the genesis of certain strains, so I am eager to be corrected in any case. Would also like thoughts about the predominant characteristics, as well as any kind of interesting history about a varietal. Thanks! E. Winemonger ---------------- THE GRAPES OF AUSTRIA THE WHITES: BOUVIER: Used for dessert wines in the Burganland region. A mild and aromatic variety with a light Muscat bouquet. This was originally a table wine grape and is most often combined with other grapes in wine. CHARDONNAY: Probably the most popular white wine grape in the world, it has been present in Austria for over a century and there is an ongoing debate about whether it or the Riesling grape make the best white wines. Chardonnay grapes produce wines that can vary in characteristics, but some common descriptions include buttery, creamy, nutty, smoky, steely, vanilla, lemony, appley, melon & pineapple, depending upon how "oaked" they are. They can be dry or dessert wines. The Austrians of Styria call their Chardonnay MORILLON and those from the Wachau call it FEINBURGUNDER. FEINBURGUNDER: see CHARDONNAY FURMINT: Used in dessert wines, especially for the creation of Ruster Ausbruch. The Furmint grape has a soft skin which is easily damaged and thus allows the grape to dehydrate quickly. GELBER MUSKATELLER: see MUSKATELLER GEWURZTRAMINER: see TRAMINER GRAUBURGUNDER: see PINOT GRIS GRÜNER SYLVANER: Also known simply as SYLVANER. Once a widely planted varietal, it comes from a crossing of the Traminer and "Austrian White" grapes. It is believed to have originated in Austria, but there are not many vineyards growing it now. It tends to produce light, soft wines with good acidity. GRÜNER VELTLINER: The most widely planted vine in Austria, this white wine grape produces pale, crisp, light-to-medium bodied wines that can be slightly spicy. There are notes of green veggies, white pepper, sometimes lentils, rhubarb and strawberry, as well as a big floral bouquet, but not of the perfumed variety. This dry white wine will match well with almost any kind of food, including the notoriously difficult such as artichoke and asparagus. If you've been looking for a delightful alternative to the oft-oaky Chardonnay, this is it! We hear that some people call it WEISSGIPFLER. KLEVNER: see PINOT BLANC MORILLON: see CHARDONNAY MÜLLER-THURGAU: It used to be common knowledge that Muller-Thurgau was a cross between Riesling and Sylvaner. Then word went around that it was in fact a Riesling and Chasselas hybrid. The latest rumor is that it was begat of Riesling and Admirable de Courtiller (a grape native to Eastern Europe) Whatever its lineage, it typically produces smooth, slightly sweet wines that have a hint of Muscat aroma and light acidity. Also called RIVANER. MUSKATELLER: In the family of Muscat grapes, its' fancy French name is MUSCAT BLANC A PETITS GRAINS. Low yield, very concentrated. Grapey, and almost always quite perfumey (or, aromatic, depending upon which word you prefer.) Another grape in this family which is often used (especially in the dessert wines) is MUSCAT-OTTONEL MUSKAT-OTTONEL: Light, thin, and very distinctive. See MUSKATELLER for more. MUSKAT-SYLVANER: see SAUVIGNON BLANC NEUBURGER: An historic Austrian grape that has been losing popularity in the past 15 years. It is capable of making a dry and elegant wine, as well as great late-harvest sweeties, and is hopefully due for a comeback. Often soft, full-bodied, with a balanced, nutty aroma. PINOT BLANC: Some say the Austrians make the best wines around from this variety, which they call WEISSBURGUNDER (or KLEVNER.) Some also say that you can detect notes of apple, peach, yeast, a bit of spice, and general freshness. Still others say it's dry, crisp and intense. PINOT GRIS : A full bodied white grape that you might have heard called PINOT GRIGIO, RULANDER or GRAUBURGUNDER. It can be light, crisp and dry or fat, rich, and honeyed. Peaches. Apricots. Not a lot of these vines in Austria, and you'll find most of them in the Burgenland and Styrian regions. RIESLING: Considered to be one of the best and most versatile white-wine grapes. It produces wines ranging from steely dry to very sweet & honeyed. It tends to have a floral bouquet and a freshness which comes from its acidity. When it's dry, it can have notes of lime and grapefruit. When it's sweet, think honey and apricot. RULANDER : see PINOT GRIS SÄMLING 88: "Sämling" means "offspring": see SCHEUREBE SAUVIGNON BLANC: This white wine grape, with its noticeable zip of acidity, will flood you with aromas of fresh green grass, blackcurrant bud, elder and gooseberries, elderflower, figs, and a general crisp herbal thing. Used to great effect by the winemakers in the Styrian region. Sometimes called MUSKAT-SYLVANER, it is in fact an offspring of the Traminer grape. SCHEUREBE: Also called SÄMLING 88, it is a cross of Riesling and Sylvaner grapes developed in 1916. Very susceptible to noble rot, which makes it a prime candidate for the dessert wines. The flavor is similar to Riesling, with notes of vineyard peaches and apricot, as well as lychee, mangos, pears and spice. SYLVANER: see GRÜNER SYLVANER TRAMINER: Also called GEWÜRTZTRAMINER or ROTER TRAMINER, although it is in fact the offspring of the Traminer grape. Known for its crisp and spicy attributes (gewurtz means "spicy" in German.) It has characteristics of lychees and roses (the latter being quite noticeable in dessert wines) as well as nutmeg and cloves. Wines made from this grape tend to be more golden in color than other whites, and very soft and smooth. Along with Gewürtztraminer, the Traminer grape claims parentage to many "famous" offspring, including Grüner Veltliner, Silvaner, and all the Pinots. WEISSBURGUNDER: see PINOT BLANC WEISSGIPFLER: see GRUNER VELTLINER WELSCHRIESLING: Don't let the name fool you: this white wine grape is not related to the Riesling variety. In Austria, this grape is used almost exclusively for production of dessert wines, where it's exotic fruits and flowery aromas are shown off best. Lightly structured, racy acidity. THE REDS: BLAUBURGUNDER: This grape is more commonly known as PINOT NOIR. A red grape that can make red or white wines. It is blended with Chardonnay to make Champagne, and when used by itself is called "blanc de noirs", or, a white from black. It's characteristics, when young, include plums, raspberries, strawberries, black currants and cherries, and when mature give us figs, prunes, truffles, chocolate, violets, smokiness and truffles. You'll see it listed as BLAUER BURGUNDER and BLAUER SPATBURGUNDER as well. 1. GSELLMANN & GSELLMANN BLAUBURGUNDER 2001, wm#GG001 BLAUFRÄNKISCH: In the realm of Cabernet Sauvignon, this baby's widely planted around Austria and is used to produce dry, fruity red wines with fine spices backed by blackberry and cherry aromas and tones of liquorice. It buds early, ripens late, don't like the cold, and when it's unripe, it gets pretty vegetal. All that said, it's a very tasty, lighter drinking red whose firm tannins make it worthy of aging. Also called LIMBERGER. BLAUER PORTUGIESER: They say that this varietal was brought to Austria by a wine merchant from Porto. At its best it produces mild and fruity wines which are generally low in both alcohol and acidity and should be drunk young. BLAUER WILDBACHER: A varietal found in Western Sytria which is used to make the rose wine called Schilcher. This specialty wine is as regional as it gets: the high acid content makes it almost undrinkable to the uninitiated. However, some vintners are now trying to make a softer, more rounded version of the wine. BLAUER ZWEIGELT: see ZWEIGELT. CABERNET SAUVIGNON: Likely the best known red wine grape worldwide, it is not planted widely in Austria but it is there. Its fruity flavors are described as blackcurrent, cherry, raspberry and black cherry, and it is also tagged with the labels mint, cedar, green pepper and tobacco. LIMBERGER: see BLAUFRANKISCH MERLOT: Red wine grape not widely planted in Austria but finding popularity over in neighboring Hungary. Usually blended with other grapes. Has notes of blackberry, black currant, and truffle. PINOT NOIR: see BLAUBURGUNDER ROTBURGER: see ZWEIGELT SAINT LAURENT: A red grape that tastes along the lines of the Pinot Noir and is very "in" right now. It's a bit crazier than the pinot, having a rather wild side with fruity, velvetly and flowery aromas, dry robust flavors and nice tannins. There are reports that it is a difficult vine to grow and can tell you a lot about the talents of a vintner, and alternately that it is a hearty vine that resists diseases. ZWEIGELT: Extremely drinkable and full-bodied with dominant notes of cherries and spice. Rich in tannins and mild acidity. It is the result of a somewhat recent crossing of Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent, but it also seems to have adopted the best parts of Syrah. It is planted widely in Austria and ripens early. Also called BLAUER ZWEIGELT and ROTBURGER. |
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Thanks. nice writeup. I didn't realize there was Scheurebe in Austria.
You might mention that Furmint is not exclusively used for dessert wines. Dale Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply |
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![]() winemonger wrote: > FURMINT: When used to make a dry styled wine, tends towards notes of > apple, quince, and somthing floral. Clean, firm, compact, high in > expression and good acid balance. Alternately, it is the traditional > grape used over a hundred years ago for creating Ruster Ausbruch > dessert wines. The Furmint grape has a soft skin which is easily > damaged and thus allows the grape to dehydrate quickly. Don't you think that more people would associate Furmint with Tokaji than with Ruster Ausbruch? Mark Lipton |
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>Don't you think that more people would associate Furmint with Tokaji than
>with >Ruster Ausbruch? Mark, this is to be a guide to Austrian grapes, if I'm not mistaken. Surely Furmint is most famous for Tokaji, but in this case Ruster Ausbruch. Dale Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply |
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Michael Pronay > wrote in message news:
> > CHARDONNAY ... there is an ongoing debate about whether it or > > the Riesling grape make the best white wines. > > No. Discussions here in Austria rather go to decide whether Grüner > Veltliner or Riesling gets the palm. I wan't limiting this to be an Austrian debate, but I can see that I should since it is my main focus right now. > > > ... The Austrians of Styria call their Chardonnay MORILLON > > True. > > > and those from the Wachau call it FEINBURGUNDER. > > Not anymore, this is illegal since a few years. Still want to include it. I can mention that anyone using the term will be locked up now, however. > > > FEINBURGUNDER: see CHARDONNAY > > I'd drop that entry. > > > GEWURZTRAMINER: see TRAMINER > ^ > Here we got it right. I do know how to spell it (luckily) Am glad you caught the typos elsewhere. At this point i don't even see the mistakes. > > > GRÜNER SYLVANER ... it comes from a crossing of the Traminer and > > "Austrian White" grapes. ... > > I don't think I have ever seen "Österreichisch Weiß" translated > (although literrally it's correct, of course), just as you woudn't > translate "Grauburgunder" into "Grey Burgundy". No, but I have seen "Weissburgunder" translated as "White Burgundy" With the other, i'm just trying to make things accessible. > > > GRÜNER VELTLINER: ... this white wine grape produces pale, > > crisp, light-to-medium bodied wines ... > > The best smaragds are pretty full-bodied, and Willy Bründlmayer's > Käferberg and Lamm single vineyard bottlings have at one time > surpassed 15.0 percent of alcohol. Not something I'd normally call > light-to-medium bodied. True. > > > We hear that some people call it WEISSGIPFLER. > > Well, at least one grower uses this synonym on the label, but > nobody I know ever used it in common language. It's not common language, but so many vintners mentioned it to me, I would be remiss to leave it out. > > > MÜLLER-THURGAU: It used to be common knowledge that > > Muller-Thurgau was a cross between Riesling and Sylvaner. Then > > word went around that it was in fact a Riesling and Chasselas > > hybrid. The latest rumor is that it was begat of Riesling and > > Admirable de Courtiller (a grape native to Eastern Europe) ... > > Never heard about that. There was an argueing going on between > Klosterneuburg and Geisenheim about the socnd parent being either > Madeleine Angevine or Chasselas de Courtillier, but it was not > considered really important since both grapes belong to the > Chasselas family. Actually, part of the debate was on this newsgroup from a few years ago. I remembered it from my past quiet days of peeking in intermittently. > > > Also called RIVANER. > > Even more frequently it was called Riesling-Silvaner, a name now > banned. Banned everywhere? This is interesting. > > > NEUBURGER ... > > A crossing Roter Veltliner x Silvaner. Thanks. > > > SAUVIGNON BLANC ... Sometimes called MUSKAT-SYLVANER, > > Not legally anymore. Again, where? And maybe even since when? > > > SCHEUREBE: Also called SÄMLING 88, it is a cross of Riesling and > > Sylvaner grapes developed in 1916. > > No. See the link given above. Riesling as parent is correct, but > the other is still unknown (and certainly not Silvaner). "Scheurebe: The most widely grown in Germany's Rheinhessen and Rheinpfalz regions, this cross of Riesling and Sylvaner was created in 1916 by botanist George Scheu (Rebe means "vine")." -Wine Lover's Companion. Ron Herbst and Sharon Tyler Herbst. Copyright 1995. Guess my source is out of date? > > > TRAMINER: Also called GEWÜRTZTRAMINER or ROTER TRAMINER ... > ^ > Here we have the wrong T once again. > > > (gewurtz means "spicy" in German.) > ^ > Spelling is "Gewürz", and it's not "spicy" but "spice". > Damn my German! Oh wait... I don't speak any German of consequence. Thanks for that one! > > ... Gewürtztraminer ... > ^ > Hmmm. > > > WELSCHRIESLING: ... this grape is used almost exclusively for > > production of dessert wines ... > > Sorry, no. Welschriesling is the light and bone dry wine in just > about *every* vineyard in Styria, where it's the number one grape > variety (22%); in total Austria it's share is 6%, making it the > number three white wine grape after Veltliner and Müller-Thurgau. > And don't forget the Welschriesling from around Poysdorf used to > produce much of Austria's very best sparkling wines. Myopic view situation here. My Styrian vintner pals didn't push the Welschriesling on me, so i did not realize that it was what "the masses" there were quaffing. Rookie mistake. > > > > BLAUFRÄNKISCH ... Also called LIMBERGER. > > But very rarely so in Austria. I'm trying to bring in folks from all over, so that they can come to some comparison. So if there are any others where i didn't mention a common other name, please let me know. > > > MERLOT: Red wine grape not widely planted in Austria but finding > > popularity over in neighboring Hungary. > > Merlot has been widely planted in Austria lately and enjoys a fast > growing popularity as cuvée partner in many of Austria's finest > reds. Do you know how widely grown? I couldn't find a figure on that. > > > SAINT LAURENT ... > > A sämling (offspring) from the pinot group. > > > ZWEIGELT ... the result of a somewhat recent crossing of > > Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent, > > If you consider 1922 "somewhat recent", then you are right. Shockingly, as an American, I do! Something about hanging out in Austrian cellars hundreds of years older than the U.S..... > > > but it also seems to have adopted the best parts of Syrah. > > Btw, quite a lot of Syrah has been planted in the last few years > in Burgenland, and it performs extremely well, you should consider > adding it to your list. Favorites? Thanks for all the notes, E. |
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![]() "winemonger" > skrev i melding om... > Michael Pronay > wrote in message news: > > I don't think I have ever seen "Österreichisch Weiß" translated > > (although literrally it's correct, of course), just as you woudn't > > translate "Grauburgunder" into "Grey Burgundy". > No, but I have seen "Weissburgunder" translated as "White Burgundy" > With the other, i'm just trying to make things accessible. > Grauburgunder? You mean Pinot Gris? Anders |
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"Anders Tørneskog" > wrote:
> Grauburgunder? You mean Pinot Gris? Grauburgunder = pinot gris = Ruländer = pinot grigio = szürkebarat = Klevner (in some parts of the German speaking area) = malvoisie (Valais) = Tokay d'Alsace (ruled out, and rightly so). M. |
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