First, a big thanks to those who gave notes to my Austrian wine
classifications. They were really helpful.
So here is my write-up describing the different grapes, some really
specific to Austria, but many known worldwide. There are often raging
debates about the genesis of certain strains, so I am eager to be
corrected in any case. Would also like thoughts about the predominant
characteristics, as well as any kind of interesting history about a
varietal.
Thanks!
E. Winemonger
----------------

THE GRAPES OF AUSTRIA
THE WHITES:

BOUVIER: Used for dessert wines in the Burganland region. A mild and
aromatic variety with a light Muscat bouquet. This was originally a
table wine grape and is most often combined with other grapes in wine.

CHARDONNAY: Probably the most popular white wine grape in the world,
it has been present in Austria for over a century and there is an
ongoing debate about whether it or the Riesling grape make the best
white wines. Chardonnay grapes produce wines that can vary in
characteristics, but some common descriptions include buttery, creamy,
nutty, smoky, steely, vanilla, lemony, appley, melon & pineapple,
depending upon how "oaked" they are. They can be dry or dessert wines.
The Austrians of Styria call their Chardonnay MORILLON and those from
the Wachau call it FEINBURGUNDER.

FEINBURGUNDER: see CHARDONNAY

FURMINT: Used in dessert wines, especially for the creation of Ruster
Ausbruch. The Furmint grape has a soft skin which is easily damaged
and thus allows the grape to dehydrate quickly.

GELBER MUSKATELLER: see MUSKATELLER

GEWURZTRAMINER: see TRAMINER

GRAUBURGUNDER: see PINOT GRIS

GRÜNER SYLVANER: Also known simply as SYLVANER. Once a widely planted
varietal, it comes from a crossing of the Traminer and "Austrian
White" grapes. It is believed to have originated in Austria, but
there are not many vineyards growing it now. It tends to produce
light, soft wines with good acidity.

GRÜNER VELTLINER: The most widely planted vine in Austria, this white
wine grape produces pale, crisp, light-to-medium bodied wines that can
be slightly spicy. There are notes of green veggies, white pepper,
sometimes lentils, rhubarb and strawberry, as well as a big floral
bouquet, but not of the perfumed variety. This dry white wine will
match well with almost any kind of food, including the notoriously
difficult such as artichoke and asparagus. If you've been looking
for a delightful alternative to the oft-oaky Chardonnay, this is it!
We hear that some people call it WEISSGIPFLER.

KLEVNER: see PINOT BLANC

MORILLON: see CHARDONNAY

MÜLLER-THURGAU: It used to be common knowledge that Muller-Thurgau was
a cross between Riesling and Sylvaner. Then word went around that it
was in fact a Riesling and Chasselas hybrid. The latest rumor is that
it was begat of Riesling and Admirable de Courtiller (a grape native
to Eastern Europe) Whatever its lineage, it typically produces
smooth, slightly sweet wines that have a hint of Muscat aroma and
light acidity. Also called RIVANER.

MUSKATELLER: In the family of Muscat grapes, its' fancy French name
is MUSCAT BLANC A PETITS GRAINS. Low yield, very concentrated.
Grapey, and almost always quite perfumey (or, aromatic, depending upon
which word you prefer.) Another grape in this family which is often
used (especially in the dessert wines) is MUSCAT-OTTONEL

MUSKAT-OTTONEL: Light, thin, and very distinctive. See MUSKATELLER
for more.

MUSKAT-SYLVANER: see SAUVIGNON BLANC

NEUBURGER: An historic Austrian grape that has been losing popularity
in the past 15 years. It is capable of making a dry and elegant wine,
as well as great late-harvest sweeties, and is hopefully due for a
comeback. Often soft, full-bodied, with a balanced, nutty aroma.

PINOT BLANC: Some say the Austrians make the best wines around from
this variety, which they call WEISSBURGUNDER (or KLEVNER.) Some also
say that you can detect notes of apple, peach, yeast, a bit of spice,
and general freshness. Still others say it's dry, crisp and intense.

PINOT GRIS : A full bodied white grape that you might have heard
called PINOT GRIGIO, RULANDER or GRAUBURGUNDER. It can be light,
crisp and dry or fat, rich, and honeyed. Peaches. Apricots. Not a
lot of these vines in Austria, and you'll find most of them in the
Burgenland and Styrian regions.

RIESLING: Considered to be one of the best and most versatile
white-wine grapes. It produces wines ranging from steely dry to very
sweet & honeyed. It tends to have a floral bouquet and a freshness
which comes from its acidity. When it's dry, it can have notes of
lime and grapefruit. When it's sweet, think honey and apricot.

RULANDER : see PINOT GRIS

SÄMLING 88: "Sämling" means "offspring": see SCHEUREBE

SAUVIGNON BLANC: This white wine grape, with its noticeable zip of
acidity, will flood you with aromas of fresh green grass, blackcurrant
bud, elder and gooseberries, elderflower, figs, and a general crisp
herbal thing. Used to great effect by the winemakers in the Styrian
region. Sometimes called MUSKAT-SYLVANER, it is in fact an offspring
of the Traminer grape.

SCHEUREBE: Also called SÄMLING 88, it is a cross of Riesling and
Sylvaner grapes developed in 1916. Very susceptible to noble rot,
which makes it a prime candidate for the dessert wines. The flavor is
similar to Riesling, with notes of vineyard peaches and apricot, as
well as lychee, mangos, pears and spice.

SYLVANER: see GRÜNER SYLVANER

TRAMINER: Also called GEWÜRTZTRAMINER or ROTER TRAMINER, although it
is in fact the offspring of the Traminer grape. Known for its crisp
and spicy attributes (gewurtz means "spicy" in German.) It has
characteristics of lychees and roses (the latter being quite
noticeable in dessert wines) as well as nutmeg and cloves. Wines made
from this grape tend to be more golden in color than other whites, and
very soft and smooth. Along with Gewürtztraminer, the Traminer grape
claims parentage to many "famous" offspring, including Grüner
Veltliner, Silvaner, and all the Pinots.

WEISSBURGUNDER: see PINOT BLANC

WEISSGIPFLER: see GRUNER VELTLINER

WELSCHRIESLING: Don't let the name fool you: this white wine grape is
not related to the Riesling variety. In Austria, this grape is used
almost exclusively for production of dessert wines, where it's exotic
fruits and flowery aromas are shown off best. Lightly structured,
racy acidity.



THE REDS:

BLAUBURGUNDER: This grape is more commonly known as PINOT NOIR. A red
grape that can make red or white wines. It is blended with Chardonnay
to make Champagne, and when used by itself is called "blanc de noirs",
or, a white from black. It's characteristics, when young, include
plums, raspberries, strawberries, black currants and cherries, and
when mature give us figs, prunes, truffles, chocolate, violets,
smokiness and truffles. You'll see it listed as BLAUER BURGUNDER and
BLAUER SPATBURGUNDER as well.
1. GSELLMANN & GSELLMANN BLAUBURGUNDER 2001, wm#GG001

BLAUFRÄNKISCH: In the realm of Cabernet Sauvignon, this baby's widely
planted around Austria and is used to produce dry, fruity red wines
with fine spices backed by blackberry and cherry aromas and tones of
liquorice. It buds early, ripens late, don't like the cold, and when
it's unripe, it gets pretty vegetal. All that said, it's a very
tasty, lighter drinking red whose firm tannins make it worthy of
aging. Also called LIMBERGER.


BLAUER PORTUGIESER: They say that this varietal was brought to
Austria by a wine merchant from Porto. At its best it produces mild
and fruity wines which are generally low in both alcohol and acidity
and should be drunk young.

BLAUER WILDBACHER: A varietal found in Western Sytria which is used
to make the rose wine called Schilcher. This specialty wine is as
regional as it gets: the high acid content makes it almost
undrinkable to the uninitiated. However, some vintners are now trying
to make a softer, more rounded version of the wine.

BLAUER ZWEIGELT: see ZWEIGELT.

CABERNET SAUVIGNON: Likely the best known red wine grape worldwide,
it is not planted widely in Austria but it is there. Its fruity
flavors are described as blackcurrent, cherry, raspberry and black
cherry, and it is also tagged with the labels mint, cedar, green
pepper and tobacco.

LIMBERGER: see BLAUFRANKISCH

MERLOT: Red wine grape not widely planted in Austria but finding
popularity over in neighboring Hungary. Usually blended with other
grapes. Has notes of blackberry, black currant, and truffle.

PINOT NOIR: see BLAUBURGUNDER

ROTBURGER: see ZWEIGELT

SAINT LAURENT: A red grape that tastes along the lines of the Pinot
Noir and is very "in" right now. It's a bit crazier than the pinot,
having a rather wild side with fruity, velvetly and flowery aromas,
dry robust flavors and nice tannins. There are reports that it is a
difficult vine to grow and can tell you a lot about the talents of a
vintner, and alternately that it is a hearty vine that resists
diseases.

ZWEIGELT: Extremely drinkable and full-bodied with dominant notes of
cherries and spice. Rich in tannins and mild acidity. It is the
result of a somewhat recent crossing of Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent,
but it also seems to have adopted the best parts of Syrah. It is
planted widely in Austria and ripens early. Also called BLAUER
ZWEIGELT and ROTBURGER.