With Betsy's meatballs and sauce over spaghetti, the 1993 Gabbiano Chianti
Classico Riserva. Intense black cherry fruit still apparent, but some odd oaky
notes and a none-too-pleasant charred wood nuance. B-
Today I spoke at a church in place of their sermon, then spent afternoon in a
meeting. Betsy played a matinee, we both arrived home around 5. What to do
about dinner. We took the easy way out, ordered pizza. I almost opened a Monte
Antico or Borsao, then thought is pizza only for under$7 reds? We each had a
long day, might as well do it up. So I opened the 1999 Terrabianca Campaccio
(Tuscany). Label says a blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, but
it tastes similar to a Brunello- other than color it could be pure Sangiovese.
Rich black cherry fruit with a hint of blackberry, the oak is somewhat
restrained (light notes of vanilla and cigarbox). Nice balance of acidity,
tannins, and fruit. A good buy at $23.99.
A-

Saturday afternoon I went to a huge tasting sponsored by Rochambeau Wines in
Dobbs Ferry. They had about 10 distributors, and 150 wines. The day had cleared
and the view was magnificent (Harvest restaurant in the neighboring town of
Hastings). Even spitting I knew I had to be selective. I didn't take notes on
all I tasted, and feel grading would be iffy. But below are a few categories
and some brief impressions:
My favorite:
NV Pierre Peters Blanc de Blancs "Cuvee Reserve" - there were lots of
Champagnes at this tasting, both small houses and big guys like Pol Roger and
Taittinger, but this was my fave by a long shot. A nose of apples and yeast
rolls, great flavors of spiced applesauce, minerals, and peach in the mouth.
Bright acidity and a very long finish. $34
The Contenders:
1998 Travaglini Gattinara - red fruit with a hint of leather, fairly tannic,
good acidity. $21
2000 Coudoulet de Beaucastel- excellent example of big Cotes du Rhone.
2001 Jean Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Masures" -mineral and chalk,
white fruit, very nice indeed. $33
2001 Domaine Laroche Chablis "St Martin" - very nice Chablis, no sign of oak,
apple and citrus with wet stones. Nice finish. $21
1998 Pio Cesare Barolo -Very nice Barolo, medium-bodied but with some
underlying tannins, leather, tar, and black fruit. Good acidity.
Also Rans:

2000 Fonroque (St. Emilion)- big and dense , but good red fruit and some earth.
Needs time.
2000 Cos Labory (St. Estephe) - also needs time, but nice fruit under a
balanced structure.
2001 Bouchard Pere et Fils Beaune Grèves l'Enfant Jésus -cherry and raspberry
fruit, earthy, a little tannic, needs time but pretty nice
NV Gaston Chiquet "Carte Verte" - a lighter Champage, perfectly acceptable but
overshadowed by its neighbor the Pierre Peters
2001 Billaud-Simon Chablis - nice Chard fruit with some mineral notes
2001 Ridge "3 Valleys" - nice deal at $16, pretty medium bodied red
2002 Richter Estate Riesling- very nice $8 Qba
2002 Villa Maria Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc - gooseberry & tropical fruit with
a nice acidic balance. Screwcapped, yeah!

2000 Dei Vino Nobile de Montepulciano- VNdM has never been my favorite wine,
but this is tastier than most
1997 Caparzo Ca Del Pazzo - oaky Sangiovese/Cab blend, big flavors, not my
favorite style but at $28 better priced than a lot of similar SuperTuscans.
2000 Ch. Saint Cosme Gigondas -no Valbelle was made in this vintage. Pretty
big, with cedar, spice and dark berry fruit.
2000 Terriccio Tassinaia - fairly big, earth and fruit mix with a big dose of
oak. Not my style, but very well-made

2001 Patrick Javillier "Cuvee des Forgets" Bourgogne Blanc - nice Burg with a
little new oak, bright acidity, good apple and mineral flavors
2001 Gaja Rossj-Bass Chardonnay
Big Chard with plenty of oak, $44 but the equal of lots of CalChards at that
price.
Good, but too Pricey:
2000 Pascal Rollet "Clos de la Chapele" Pouilly-Fuisse -Flinty if somewhat
oaky P-F, but pricey at $23
2002 Coppo Moncalvina Moscato d'Asti -most expensive Moscato d'Asti I can
remember seeing. Pretty good and typical, but at $20 dubious value.

2001 Groffier Bourgogne Rouge- I know this is one of the "name" Bourgognes, but
I thought it dubious value at $24.
2001 Felton Road Pinot Noir - good earthy PN flavors.

1997 Finca Valpiedra Reserva - big Rioja with vanilla, red fruit, long finish.
I like, but expensive for Reserva at $21.
1999 Gaja Barbaresco- my usual Gaja feeling- I like, I can't afford
2000 Druid Meursault "Le Limozin"-Big-bodied Meursault, nice but not enticing
OK:
2000 Domaine de Montille "Les Pezerolles" Pommard- light for Pommard, some
vanilla on the black cherry fruit. Good.
2000 Newton Chardonnay- tropical fruit flavors, modest oaking
2000 Franciscan "Magnificat" A Napa blend of Bordeaux grapes, not too big,
lots of oak, red fruit.
2001 Ch. de Jau "Talon Rouge" Cotes du Roussillon Villages- New-worldish syrah,
but nice.
2000 Hunt Country Vidal Ice Wine - apricot fruit and flowery nose, but could
use some zip.
2002 McWilliams Shiraz -Pourer says this is Gallo's 1st Australian effort.
Decent fruity Shiraz, would be ok hamburger wine.
2001 Kermit Lynch Cotes du Rhone- modest flavors, ok at $9

NV Cristalino Rose- the regular version of this is my standby when bubbly is
needed on a budget (or for a mixed drink). This is tasty for $6.49, but I can
imagine when I'd actually serve it. Rose mimosas?
1998 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino -Modest ripe Brunello.
2000 Ch. De Meursault "Clos de Chateau" Chardonnay- decent Bourgogne Blanc,
medium-weight, some acidity, fresh apple fruit with some new oak.
2000 Beringer Nightingale - honeysuckle and peaches, but at $27 a half bottle
more than most 2001 Sauternes, so why? Decent wine, just not QPR.
2001 Helmut Clusserath Weiler Riesling- while I don't know that I've met a 2001
Mosel I didn't like, this one goes in the category of "ok but there are plenty
of better ones out there."

Wished I Hadn't Bothered:
2000 JJ Vincent "Domaine des Morates" St. Veran- soft, innocuous, forgettable
2001 Jaboulet "Les Jalets" Crozes-Hermitage- poor value even at $11

Dale

Dale Williams
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