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Dale Williams
 
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Default TN: Gabbiano and Campaccio, plus huge tasting

With Betsy's meatballs and sauce over spaghetti, the 1993 Gabbiano Chianti
Classico Riserva. Intense black cherry fruit still apparent, but some odd oaky
notes and a none-too-pleasant charred wood nuance. B-
Today I spoke at a church in place of their sermon, then spent afternoon in a
meeting. Betsy played a matinee, we both arrived home around 5. What to do
about dinner. We took the easy way out, ordered pizza. I almost opened a Monte
Antico or Borsao, then thought is pizza only for under$7 reds? We each had a
long day, might as well do it up. So I opened the 1999 Terrabianca Campaccio
(Tuscany). Label says a blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, but
it tastes similar to a Brunello- other than color it could be pure Sangiovese.
Rich black cherry fruit with a hint of blackberry, the oak is somewhat
restrained (light notes of vanilla and cigarbox). Nice balance of acidity,
tannins, and fruit. A good buy at $23.99.
A-

Saturday afternoon I went to a huge tasting sponsored by Rochambeau Wines in
Dobbs Ferry. They had about 10 distributors, and 150 wines. The day had cleared
and the view was magnificent (Harvest restaurant in the neighboring town of
Hastings). Even spitting I knew I had to be selective. I didn't take notes on
all I tasted, and feel grading would be iffy. But below are a few categories
and some brief impressions:
My favorite:
NV Pierre Peters Blanc de Blancs "Cuvee Reserve" - there were lots of
Champagnes at this tasting, both small houses and big guys like Pol Roger and
Taittinger, but this was my fave by a long shot. A nose of apples and yeast
rolls, great flavors of spiced applesauce, minerals, and peach in the mouth.
Bright acidity and a very long finish. $34
The Contenders:
1998 Travaglini Gattinara - red fruit with a hint of leather, fairly tannic,
good acidity. $21
2000 Coudoulet de Beaucastel- excellent example of big Cotes du Rhone.
2001 Jean Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Masures" -mineral and chalk,
white fruit, very nice indeed. $33
2001 Domaine Laroche Chablis "St Martin" - very nice Chablis, no sign of oak,
apple and citrus with wet stones. Nice finish. $21
1998 Pio Cesare Barolo -Very nice Barolo, medium-bodied but with some
underlying tannins, leather, tar, and black fruit. Good acidity.
Also Rans:

2000 Fonroque (St. Emilion)- big and dense , but good red fruit and some earth.
Needs time.
2000 Cos Labory (St. Estephe) - also needs time, but nice fruit under a
balanced structure.
2001 Bouchard Pere et Fils Beaune Grèves l'Enfant Jésus -cherry and raspberry
fruit, earthy, a little tannic, needs time but pretty nice
NV Gaston Chiquet "Carte Verte" - a lighter Champage, perfectly acceptable but
overshadowed by its neighbor the Pierre Peters
2001 Billaud-Simon Chablis - nice Chard fruit with some mineral notes
2001 Ridge "3 Valleys" - nice deal at $16, pretty medium bodied red
2002 Richter Estate Riesling- very nice $8 Qba
2002 Villa Maria Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc - gooseberry & tropical fruit with
a nice acidic balance. Screwcapped, yeah!

2000 Dei Vino Nobile de Montepulciano- VNdM has never been my favorite wine,
but this is tastier than most
1997 Caparzo Ca Del Pazzo - oaky Sangiovese/Cab blend, big flavors, not my
favorite style but at $28 better priced than a lot of similar SuperTuscans.
2000 Ch. Saint Cosme Gigondas -no Valbelle was made in this vintage. Pretty
big, with cedar, spice and dark berry fruit.
2000 Terriccio Tassinaia - fairly big, earth and fruit mix with a big dose of
oak. Not my style, but very well-made

2001 Patrick Javillier "Cuvee des Forgets" Bourgogne Blanc - nice Burg with a
little new oak, bright acidity, good apple and mineral flavors
2001 Gaja Rossj-Bass Chardonnay
Big Chard with plenty of oak, $44 but the equal of lots of CalChards at that
price.
Good, but too Pricey:
2000 Pascal Rollet "Clos de la Chapele" Pouilly-Fuisse -Flinty if somewhat
oaky P-F, but pricey at $23
2002 Coppo Moncalvina Moscato d'Asti -most expensive Moscato d'Asti I can
remember seeing. Pretty good and typical, but at $20 dubious value.

2001 Groffier Bourgogne Rouge- I know this is one of the "name" Bourgognes, but
I thought it dubious value at $24.
2001 Felton Road Pinot Noir - good earthy PN flavors.

1997 Finca Valpiedra Reserva - big Rioja with vanilla, red fruit, long finish.
I like, but expensive for Reserva at $21.
1999 Gaja Barbaresco- my usual Gaja feeling- I like, I can't afford
2000 Druid Meursault "Le Limozin"-Big-bodied Meursault, nice but not enticing
OK:
2000 Domaine de Montille "Les Pezerolles" Pommard- light for Pommard, some
vanilla on the black cherry fruit. Good.
2000 Newton Chardonnay- tropical fruit flavors, modest oaking
2000 Franciscan "Magnificat" A Napa blend of Bordeaux grapes, not too big,
lots of oak, red fruit.
2001 Ch. de Jau "Talon Rouge" Cotes du Roussillon Villages- New-worldish syrah,
but nice.
2000 Hunt Country Vidal Ice Wine - apricot fruit and flowery nose, but could
use some zip.
2002 McWilliams Shiraz -Pourer says this is Gallo's 1st Australian effort.
Decent fruity Shiraz, would be ok hamburger wine.
2001 Kermit Lynch Cotes du Rhone- modest flavors, ok at $9

NV Cristalino Rose- the regular version of this is my standby when bubbly is
needed on a budget (or for a mixed drink). This is tasty for $6.49, but I can
imagine when I'd actually serve it. Rose mimosas?
1998 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino -Modest ripe Brunello.
2000 Ch. De Meursault "Clos de Chateau" Chardonnay- decent Bourgogne Blanc,
medium-weight, some acidity, fresh apple fruit with some new oak.
2000 Beringer Nightingale - honeysuckle and peaches, but at $27 a half bottle
more than most 2001 Sauternes, so why? Decent wine, just not QPR.
2001 Helmut Clusserath Weiler Riesling- while I don't know that I've met a 2001
Mosel I didn't like, this one goes in the category of "ok but there are plenty
of better ones out there."

Wished I Hadn't Bothered:
2000 JJ Vincent "Domaine des Morates" St. Veran- soft, innocuous, forgettable
2001 Jaboulet "Les Jalets" Crozes-Hermitage- poor value even at $11

Dale

Dale Williams
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St.Helier
 
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Default Gabbiano and Campaccio, plus huge tasting


"Dale Williams" wrote in message
>
> Saturday afternoon I went to a huge tasting sponsored by Rochambeau Wines

in
> Dobbs Ferry.


> 2002 Villa Maria Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc - gooseberry & tropical fruit

with
> a nice acidic balance. Screwcapped, yeah!


Villa Maria has been around for over 40 years now - and have a three tier
"grading" structure.

You probably had wine from their "Private Bin" (basic) range.

Their top label is their black label "Reserve" range.

A little more expensive (Cloudy Bay pricing!) - either the "Clifford Bay"
or "Wairau Valley" sauvignons from Marlborough are worth the extra $$$ if
you can find them.

NOTE: Villa Maria bottle *all* their wines under stelvin now - yes, even
their premium reds***



> 2001 Felton Road Pinot Noir - good earthy PN flavors.



Out of Central Otago, this is a very young grape growing area (in fact the
worlds most southerly winemaking region!) - virtually specialising in Pinot
Noir, Riesling and Pinot Gris.

Ian Hoare (after visiting) was underwhelmed with Felton's pinots - saying
that he would prefer to reserve judgment for a decade or so, when the vines
got over their youthful exuberance.



> 2002 McWilliams Shiraz -Pourer says this is Gallo's 1st Australian effort.
> Decent fruity Shiraz, would be ok hamburger wine.



Huh????

McWilliams is one of Australia's oldest (Established 1877), largest
family-owned wine companies, so I have no idea where Gallo enter the
picture.

Within the McWilliams' stable, they have quite a few different labels - I
think that since you were offered the 2002 vintage, it was probably one of
their "basic" shirazes.

The McWilliams Mount Pleasant label is one of their premium offerings.

................................
st.helier


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Vilco \(out\)
 
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Default Gabbiano and Campaccio, plus huge tasting

"St.Helier" ha scritto

> NOTE: Villa Maria bottle *all* their wines under stelvin

ow - yes, even
> their premium reds***


What are Stelvin? Metal "bottle top" stoppers?
Like the ones on coke bottles?
If so, it may be not so classy, but definitely safer than any
cork.

Vilco


  #4 (permalink)   Report Post  
Dale Williams
 
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Default Gabbiano and Campaccio, plus huge tasting

In article >, "Vilco \(out\)" > writes:

>What are Stelvin? Metal "bottle top" stoppers?
>Like the ones on coke bottles?
>If so, it may be not so classy, but definitely safer than any
>cork.


Stelvin is a company that is the largest producer of screw-cap bottle closures.

Dale

Dale Williams
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Dale Williams
 
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Default Gabbiano and Campaccio, plus huge tasting

In article >, "St.Helier"
> writes:

>
>Villa Maria has been around for over 40 years now - and have a three tier
>"grading" structure.
>
>You probably had wine from their "Private Bin" (basic) range.
>

Yes, it was about $10 so I'm sure that's it.
>
>Out of Central Otago, this is a very young grape growing area (in fact the
>worlds most southerly winemaking region!) - virtually specialising in Pinot
>Noir, Riesling and Pinot Gris.
>
>Ian Hoare (after visiting) was underwhelmed with Felton's pinots - saying
>that he would prefer to reserve judgment for a decade or so, when the vines
>got over their youthful exuberance.
>

I liked this a bit better than the previous vintage. But not enough to buy.
Quality wise it was on the level of a good Bourgogne or maybe decent village
level Burg,not worth the almost $40 price tag.

>
>> 2002 McWilliams Shiraz -Pourer says this is Gallo's 1st Australian effort.
>> Decent fruity Shiraz, would be ok hamburger wine.

>
>
>Huh????
>
>McWilliams is one of Australia's oldest (Established 1877), largest
>family-owned wine companies, so I have no idea where Gallo enter the
>picture.
>

A quick Google showed McWilliams Hanwood Estate listed in Gallo's portfolio.
http://jobs.gallo.com/Portfolio/Imported.asp

Unclear the actual relationship. Pourer (distributor's rep) said that this was
first vintage with Gallo's winemakers there. At big tastings, I only report
what they say and I taste, no way to verify info. As always in those
situations, the pourers range from folks with an incredible depth of knowledge
about their products and wine in general, to others whose major skill seems to
be parroting WS and Parker scores.

thanks for the info,
Dale

Dale Williams
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Ian Hoare
 
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Default Gabbiano and Campaccio, plus huge tasting

Salut/Hi St.Helier,

le/on Mon, 20 Oct 2003 18:22:50 +1300, tu disais/you said:-

>Ian Hoare (after visiting) was underwhelmed with Felton's pinots - saying
>that he would prefer to reserve judgment for a decade or so, when the vines
>got over their youthful exuberance.


If we can correct that... leave out the particle -ful and the word
exuberance.

But I've not much experience at judging New World Pinot Noir in Barrel.
(Which isn't to say that I can't judge young burgundies, or that I felt
unable to comment on TomS's wonderful Pinot when it was still in barrel.


--
All the Best
Ian Hoare

Sometimes oi just sits and thinks
Sometimes oi just sits.
  #7 (permalink)   Report Post  
St.Helier
 
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Default Gabbiano and Campaccio, plus huge tasting

And salutations in return, M. Oh-Ar.

Respectfully, if I may be allowed small point of correction, I did say that
the *vines* were youthful - I do recall long conversations (myself, your
goodself and young Lipton!) where we agreed that NZ Pinots lack of
savouriness and finesse was probably because of several factors - vine age
(or lack thereof) being one; clonal choice being another.



> But I've not much experience at judging New World Pinot Noir
> in Barrel. (Which isn't to say that I can't judge young burgundies,
> or that I felt unable to comment on TomS's wonderful Pinot
> when it was still in barrel.



Experienced or not, I was (still am) in total agreement in comments made in
December '01.

Correct me if I am wrong, but you did indicate that you would love to return
to these fair shores in 10 years or so, to check on progress as vines
matured.

St.Helier


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St.Helier
 
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Default Gabbiano and Campaccio, plus huge tasting

Hi Dale

A very common phenomenon each year is the "immigration" of dozens of
winemakers (from northern hemisphere to south - or vice versa!) gaining
experience and sharing knowledge with their antipodean counterparts.

I would hazzard a guess that Gallo distributes the McWillams brands in the
US - and some Gallo winemakers are gainfully employed during
February/March/April working in McWilliams wineries during the northern
"off-season"

St.Helier


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Ian Hoare
 
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Default Gabbiano and Campaccio, plus huge tasting

Salut/Hi St.Helier,

le/on Tue, 21 Oct 2003 08:05:54 +1300, tu disais/you said:-

>And salutations in return, M. Oh-Ar.


Milord, I'm deeply honoured. My lady wife sends her friendly greetings to in
turn.

>Respectfully, if I may be allowed small point of correction, I did say that
>the *vines* were youthful


Indeed you did.

>savouriness and finesse was probably because of several factors - vine age
>(or lack thereof) being one; clonal choice being another.


I hope that the latter is not a major factor, as it will not be remedied
with time, probably.

>Experienced or not, I was (still am) in total agreement in comments made in
>December '01.


I'm gratified. What I very much hope is that if you manage to grace these
shores during the Tour de France in '04, we can open a sample of fair
burgundies to give you a standard of comparison.

>Correct me if I am wrong, but you did indicate that you would love to return
>to these fair shores in 10 years or so, to check on progress as vines
>matured.


"5 or 10", yes. And god willing, "we shall return". Though in less dramatic
guise than those for whom it was first said.
--
All the Best
Ian Hoare

Sometimes oi just sits and thinks
Sometimes oi just sits.
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St.Helier
 
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Default Gabbiano and Campaccio, plus huge tasting

"Ian Hoare" wrote in message

> >savouriness and finesse was probably because of several factors - vine

age
> >(or lack thereof) being one; clonal choice being another.

>
> I hope that the latter is not a major factor, as it will not be remedied
> with time, probably.



Because we are not bound by any legal or other informal conventions, much
experimentation (in respect to clonal choice, site (soil, sunlight,
rainfall) etc.) continues in the search for the "holy grail" - i.e. NZ pinot
with burgundian complexities of savouriness, finesse and earthiness married
with the new world cherry/mushroom flavours.

An interesting comment from one of NZ better chardonnay makers surfaced the
other day. Church Road picked their chardonnay earlier in 2002 than they
have in previous years - accepting slightly lower sugar levels and higher
acids - their explanation being that perhaps, in the past, the grapes were
*too* ripe - producing wines which were accessible early, but over-the-hill
at 5 years - so, perhaps some growers may even consider managing the canopy,
leaving more shade over the bunches and not waiting for grapes to hit 25
brix before picking.

The downside of such experimentation is that old buggers like you and I will
never see the true results in 20 years or so.

(Kathryn sends her best wishes to you and Jacquie)

The Tour route should be published within days - so we will be giving very
serious thoughts to our proposed trip.

regards

st.h






>
> >Experienced or not, I was (still am) in total agreement in comments made

in
> >December '01.

>
> I'm gratified. What I very much hope is that if you manage to grace these
> shores during the Tour de France in '04, we can open a sample of fair
> burgundies to give you a standard of comparison.
>
> >Correct me if I am wrong, but you did indicate that you would love to

return
> >to these fair shores in 10 years or so, to check on progress as vines
> >matured.

>
> "5 or 10", yes. And god willing, "we shall return". Though in less

dramatic
> guise than those for whom it was first said.
> --
> All the Best
> Ian Hoare
>
> Sometimes oi just sits and thinks
> Sometimes oi just sits.





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Ian Hoare
 
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Salut/Hi Milord St H of B,

le/on Tue, 21 Oct 2003 14:06:44 +1300, tu disais/you said:-

>Because we are not bound by any legal or other informal conventions, much
>experimentation (in respect to clonal choice, site (soil, sunlight,
>rainfall) etc.) continues in the search for the "holy grail" - i.e. NZ pinot
>with burgundian complexities of savouriness, finesse and earthiness married
>with the new world cherry/mushroom flavours.


Many growers in France envy you for this freedom (many others feel safe
knowing that if they "keep to the rules" they'll not have a disaster). But
my main reason for replying here was to say that many good Burgundies have a
cherry flavour (Morey St Denis "Les Griottes" is named for that, "Griotte"
is a morello chirry) and indeed often contain mushroomy tones too.

>
>An interesting comment from one of NZ better chardonnay makers surfaced the
>other day.


_Isn't_ that interesting!

>The downside of such experimentation is that old buggers like you and I will
>never see the true results in 20 years or so.


Yeah... well I'm used to such thoughts, for example I'll never discover
whether Szepsy's 2000 will live as long as the experts predict for it!
>
>(Kathryn sends her best wishes to you and Jacquie)


Give her a bear hug from me and a demure kiss from "'er indoors".

>The Tour route should be published within days - so we will be giving very
>serious thoughts to our proposed trip.


Yippee.

And when we know, we'll _seriously_ re-propose the idea of an afw central
France get-together.

--
All the Best
Ian Hoare

Sometimes oi just sits and thinks
Sometimes oi just sits.
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