I do not usually post many TN, even if I love to read those written by
regular posters in the group.

Tonight, I wanted some red wine to go with homemade pizza. I finally
decided on my last bottle of Charles Joguet "Les Varennes du Grand Clos"
1999.

It is quite right to say that I discovered the red wines from the Loire
with the wines by Charles Joguet. It was my good friend Luc, caviste in
Angers, who introduced me to this Domaine. This bottle was probably from
my second trip to the Loire, back in 2002. I do not think Cellartracker
existed then. At least I had not my small wine holdings there, so I
cannot really say when I purchased this bottle.

I had not great expectations, for I had opened another Charles Joguet
from the same vintage (Clos de la Dioterie) three years ago and I did
find them a bit thin and green. 1999 was not the best vintage for reds
in the Loire, mind you (it actually was a "vintage de merde").

But tonight this "Les Varennes du Grand Clos" 1999 was singing. Totally
clean after popping the cork, it displayed some black fruit with a
tobacco note that I loved. In the mouth, it was so easy to drink, with
tannins resolved and a beautiful acidity and a great balance.

I do not consider myself a heavy drinker. In fact, I normally drink just
a couple of glasses of wine with friday's dinner. But today, this small
12% alc. vol. was so nice that I ended drinking the full bottle (my wife
is not drinking for nine months).

It was probably not the very best wine I have ever drunk. Neither the
most complex. But it was a wine in its peak (I probably drunk it 10
years in advance as the average Wine Disorder contributor), with a lot
of "digestibilité". Even if I know that Loire reds are an acquired
taste, and assuming that many people will think this humble Joguet wine
would taste green or herbaceous, I loved it from the first sip to the
last.

We need more 12% alc. vol. wines like this. If we are to be objective,
it was a B+ in Dale's scale. But it felt like a 100 pointer, for it was
the right wine for the righ moment.

Too bad that Charles Joguet lost the Domaine of his name for financial
issues, and Luc, my caviste in Angers, dropped their wines from his
portfolio.

Sorry for the emotional rant!

s.

Hi Santiago,

santiago wrote:
[]
> But tonight this "Les Varennes du Grand Clos" 1999 was singing. Totally
> clean after popping the cork, it displayed some black fruit with a
> tobacco note that I loved. In the mouth, it was so easy to drink, with
> tannins resolved and a beautiful acidity and a great balance.
>

Thanks for the notes, and glad you had such an enjoyable wine. True
that sometimes a particular bottle just comes off as "perfect" even if
next time that might not be so.

> I do not consider myself a heavy drinker. In fact, I normally drink just
> a couple of glasses of wine with friday's dinner. But today, this small
> 12% alc. vol. was so nice that I ended drinking the full bottle (my wife
> is not drinking for nine months).
>

Ah ha! This sounds like happy news!

> It was probably not the very best wine I have ever drunk. Neither the
> most complex. But it was a wine in its peak (I probably drunk it 10
> years in advance as the average Wine Disorder contributor), with a lot
> of "digestibilité". Even if I know that Loire reds are an acquired
> taste, and assuming that many people will think this humble Joguet wine
> would taste green or herbaceous, I loved it from the first sip to the
> last.
>
> We need more 12% alc. vol. wines like this. If we are to be objective,
> it was a B+ in Dale's scale. But it felt like a 100 pointer, for it was
> the right wine for the righ moment.
>

I agree completely, there is much pleasure in a lower alcohol wine. And
to think that 12 used to be "standard!"

> Too bad that Charles Joguet lost the Domaine of his name for financial
> issues, and Luc, my caviste in Angers, dropped their wines from his
> portfolio.
>
I didn't know that he had lost control of the name; do you have more
details?

cheers,

-E

Hi Emery,
>>
>
> I agree completely, there is much pleasure in a lower alcohol wine. And
> to think that 12 used to be "standard!"

True. To go on with the trend, today I opened my last bottle of Rioja Viña
Albina 1995 Reserva Especial, which at 13% is quite far from today
standards. I liked the Joguet better, for the Rioja lacked fruit and was a
bit too tertiary too me. I did not finish the bottle this time <G> so will
retaste tomorrow.
>>
> I didn't know that he had lost control of the name; do you have more
> details?

Not first hand. I remember reading that he had lost the Domaine because of
his accountant, who kept it. However, I have just found in Joe Dressner's
site that he retired and sold the Domaine to his accountant. Joe himself
says that the Baudrys are good friends of Joguet so I may ask them in
october.

BTW, Jo Pithon (Savennières, Quarts du Chaume, Bonnezeaux) also had to sell
his Domaine lately, for financial matters. According to the Bettane et
Desseauve 2010 guide, the production is now being marketed by Domaine FL
(Jo Pithon + Chamboreau), belonging to the owner of an Angers based phone
company:

http://www.thewinedoctor.com/loire/domainesfl.shtml

I have also read that Guy Bossard is looking for a potential buyer for his
top notch property "Domaine de l'Ecu". Seems his descendants are not
interested in wine and he wants to retire.

And, to keep with a track of bad news, one month ago I knew about Stephane
Cossais, a young (42) vigneron from Montlouis dying of a heart attack while
running a "walking race" in Bordeaux. He only vinified 5 years his Chenin
Blanc, but made excellent wine in such a brief period of time. If you come
across any Marchandais... get it. Really nice wine.

s.

santiago wrote:

> Not first hand. I remember reading that he had lost the Domaine because of
> his accountant, who kept it. However, I have just found in Joe Dressner's
> site that he retired and sold the Domaine to his accountant. Joe himself
> says that the Baudrys are good friends of Joguet so I may ask them in
> october.

Yes, that is the story that I have also heard, possibly from the same
source. I suspect that Kermit Lynch may also have written about this,
since he is/was the US importer for Charles Joguet.

>
> BTW, Jo Pithon (Savennières, Quarts du Chaume, Bonnezeaux) also had to sell
> his Domaine lately, for financial matters. According to the Bettane et
> Desseauve 2010 guide, the production is now being marketed by Domaine FL
> (Jo Pithon + Chamboreau), belonging to the owner of an Angers based phone
> company:

Pithon's story is a bit (only a bit) different in the sense that he was
crafting his wines in a particular style that was, as it happened,
rather hard to sell. Pierre Rovani briefly lauded his "sugar hunter"
wines but on the whole he didn't find a niche for his style of wine.

To be sure, though, these are not easy times for vignerons, especially
newer ones that may not own their own land.

And, finally, if congratulations are in order then many congratulations,
Santiago!

Mark Lipton
--
alt.food.wine FAQ: http://winefaq.cwdjr.net