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TN: Drouhin Bojo and cassoulet wines
We recently opened a bottle of the 2005 Joseph Drouhin
Beaujolais-Villages with dinner: nose: classic tart red fruits palate: good concentration, bright red fruits, plenty of acid, slight bitterness on the finish All in all, just what you hope to see from a Beaujolais-Villages from a good year. Drouhin probably gets my nod for the best mass-market B-V in the US, and this bottle just reinforces that conclusion. Last night, at our annual Fête du Cassoulet (with appropritely frigid weather to accompany it), we opened: NV Veuve Clicquot Champagne n: moderate toast and some green apple fruit p: somewhat muted, toast, fruit in the background reaction: not my favorite Champagne house, but a decent sparkler NV Roederer Estate Sparkling Wine n: vibrant fruit, yeasty p: fruity without being sweet, good balance, quite powerful r: overall, a more fun wine than the Veuve Clicquot albeit one that's not likely to be mistaken for Champagne. Still, at <$20/bottle it's a good QPR choice for sparkling wine! [These were served as aperitifs with only a bowl of eda mame to accompany them -- light was the watchword for this stage of the meal] With the cassoulet, accompanied by a tossed green salad with balsamic vinaigrette: 2005 Brun l'Ancien Vielles Vignes Beaujolais n: reticent, dark fruit, minerals p: tightly wound, deep, dark fruit, quite powerful r: This is a wine that clearly needed to be carafed prior to serving, but didn't get it. There's a lot there, and my impression is that in about 5 years or so, this'll be drinking nicely. Right now, open it up beforehand and give it some air. Not a bad match with the cassoulet (a Hugh Johnson recommendation) but nothing magical. 1998 Val D'Orbieu La Cuvée Mythique n: briery, tar, blueberries and meat p: medium-full, smooth tannins, earthy and meaty with plenty of fruit and a great finish r: This was another H. Johnson pairing recommendation, but probably a younger Languedoc wine may have been better suited. Still, there was nothing wrong with this match, either, although there was no synergism with the food. For a digestif: 1995 Warre's LBV Port n: raisins, alcohol and Port-like (DUH!) p: rich, smooth, concentrated fruit, good acidity r: One of the better LBVs I've had, and from a year that wasn't declared. The label says that this wine gets 4 years of bottle aging, but to me the difference was in the quality of the fruit. Perhaps it gets the grapes that would've gone into their vintage Port in a declared year? Just a guess.... Fun night with a great group of people. One of the great aspects of making cassoulet from MFK Fisher's Time/Life recipe (with a few tweaks here and there) is that, even after serving 7 people, we've got plenty of leftovers to try with some other red wines. Mark Lipton |
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TN: Drouhin Bojo and cassoulet wines
On Feb 12, 1:15�am, Mark Lipton > wrote:
> We recently opened a bottle of the 2005 Joseph Drouhin > Beaujolais-Villages with dinner: > > nose: classic tart red fruits > palate: good concentration, bright red fruits, plenty of acid, slight > bitterness on the finish > > All in all, just what you hope to see from a Beaujolais-Villages from a > good year. *Drouhin probably gets my nod for the best mass-market B-V in > the US, and this bottle just reinforces that conclusion. > > Last night, at our annual Fête du Cassoulet (with appropritely frigid > weather to accompany it), we opened: > > NV Veuve Clicquot Champagne > n: moderate toast and some green apple fruit > p: somewhat muted, toast, fruit in the background > reaction: not my favorite Champagne house, but a decent sparkler > > NV Roederer Estate Sparkling Wine > n: vibrant fruit, yeasty > p: fruity without being sweet, good balance, quite powerful > r: overall, a more fun wine than the Veuve Clicquot albeit one that's > not likely to be mistaken for Champagne. *Still, at <$20/bottle it's a > good QPR choice for sparkling wine! > > [These were served as aperitifs with only a bowl of eda mame to > accompany them -- light was the watchword for this stage of the meal] > > With the cassoulet, accompanied by a tossed green salad with balsamic > vinaigrette: > > 2005 Brun l'Ancien Vielles Vignes Beaujolais > n: reticent, dark fruit, minerals > p: tightly wound, deep, dark fruit, quite powerful > r: This is a wine that clearly needed to be carafed prior to serving, > but didn't get it. *There's a lot there, and my impression is that in > about 5 years or so, this'll be drinking nicely. *Right now, open it up > beforehand and give it some air. *Not a bad match with the cassoulet (a > Hugh Johnson recommendation) but nothing magical. > > 1998 Val D'Orbieu La Cuvée Mythique > n: briery, tar, blueberries and meat > p: medium-full, smooth tannins, earthy and meaty with plenty of fruit > and a great finish > r: This was another H. Johnson pairing recommendation, but probably a > younger Languedoc wine may have been better suited. *Still, there was > nothing wrong with this match, either, although there was no synergism > with the food. > > For a digestif: > 1995 Warre's LBV Port > n: raisins, alcohol and Port-like (DUH!) > p: rich, smooth, concentrated fruit, good acidity > r: One of the better LBVs I've had, and from a year that wasn't > declared. *The label says that this wine gets 4 years of bottle aging, > but to me the difference was in the quality of the fruit. *Perhaps it > gets the grapes that would've gone into their vintage Port in a declared > year? *Just a guess.... > > Fun night with a great group of people. *One of the great aspects of > making cassoulet from MFK Fisher's Time/Life recipe (with a few tweaks > here and there) is that, even after serving 7 people, we've got plenty > of leftovers to try with some other red wines. > > Mark Lipton Thanks for notes. A little surprised at idea of HJ recommending Beaujolais and cassoulet. I usually think a bit bigger/tannic: Cahors, Madiran, Rhone, or your Languedoc idea. Re the Brun aging- is this natural cork? I have a few, somehow was thinking artificial. |
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TN: Drouhin Bojo and cassoulet wines
DaleW wrote:
> Thanks for notes. A little surprised at idea of HJ recommending > Beaujolais and cassoulet. I usually think a bit bigger/tannic: Cahors, > Madiran, Rhone, or your Languedoc idea. Yup. To me, a young, tannic wine makes the most sense to offset the fats in the cassoulet. HJ also recommends a Rioja, but doesn't say whether he means a modern type Crianza (my supposition) or traditional Gran Reserva. Since my Rioja holdings are slim and lean heavily toward the traditional, I didn't go for that option. > > Re the Brun aging- is this natural cork? I have a few, somehow was > thinking artificial. > Nope. Fake cork. I understand your reticence about aging wine in fake cork, but several people, Jim Cowan among them, have reported aging these L'Anciens under fake cork with great success, so I think it might not be a total loss. Still, to be safe, give it two years instead of five. I've still got an '04 Pepiere in the cellar, too! ;-) Mark Lipton |
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