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Sourdough (rec.food.sourdough) Discussing the hobby or craft of baking with sourdough. We are not just a recipe group, Our charter is to discuss the care, feeding, and breeding of yeasts and lactobacilli that make up sourdough cultures. |
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Ephraim Moya Finding Bread
Ephraim:
I noticed from your moya.us web site that you are searching for (developing) the recipe for La Joya bread. Maybe you could share with us what you have discovered so far and how the method came to be lost? Did people in La Joya stop eating bread for some reason? Was bread displaced by tortillas way back when? GONORIO'S GARDEN HEAT SOURDOUGH BREAD I started making a complicated version of bread the people in La Joya (and the Moyas) might appreciate - a kind of garden sourdough based on Carl's starter. Dick Adams of course will scoff at it and torch me for it because it uses ingredients other than flour, water, starter, and salt. But then Dick and his ilk will never know what they're missing, for they have not admitted in any way I've seen that they ever experiment much outside those basics. Or have they, but I've missed it? Anyway, we can reliably guess he'll never attempt this one, except to prove me wrong. And then he'll be hooked. This bread is delicious. What I do is to substitute the juices of garden vegetables for water in the bread recipe. First I select these veggies: - 3 Vine-ripe plum tomato - 1/2 bunch Scallions - 2 stalks Celery - 1 bunch Cilantro - 1 Red bell pepper - 3 Carrots - 1 medium Potato - 1 small Beet - 3 Habanera peppers I run these through my juicer and toss out the pulp. It makes about 3 cups of liquid, Did you notice Garlic missing from the above list? I have learned after some trial and error that garlic tends to kill the bacteria and yeast - it prevents the bread from rising. Because of the sugars and starches in the above vegetables, the yeast grows fairly fast, even at room temperature. Therefore, I do not put the bread dough through any second rise. I make the sponge by starting with a shot glass of starter, one of water, and one and a half of bread flour. When it gets nice and frothy, I add two shot glasses of water and 3 of flour. After that froths up, I add 3 cups each of bread flour and the above juice. When that gets frothy, I put it in the mixer with 5 cups of flour, and stir till the flour is wettened and clumped - it will not be soggy. I let it rest 15 minutes, then add the 2 TBSP salt and knead at low speed for 4 minutes. I do not knead longer than 4 minutes because the longer I knead it, the smaller the crumb, and I like the larger crumb. The idea is to achieve balance. Too little kneading and the dough won't hold the gas produced by the yeast, and the loaves will not rise properly. To much kneading and the dough is over-developed, so tough that it won't allow a proper rise, thereby producing smaller crumb.. I cover the blob with a towel and let it sit for 15 minutes. Then I stretch and fold it 4 or 5 times cut it into 4 equal-weight blobs, shape them into loaves, slice the tops, and put them in medium bread pans. I could as easily make two loaves in large pans, but large loaves are too large for my small family to consume in a reasonable time. Besides, the bread from large pans is so large it won't fit in my toaster without being tilted. I cover the pans with oiled plastic wrap, and let them sit and rise at room temperature until they are about double in size, or the tops protrude an inch above the top of the pan. The idea is to let them rise or proof till the yeast is almost done. This gives the bacteria as much time as possible to develop a tang, if any. In my experience, Carl's starter does not produce much tang, but a long proof time will definitely make the bread chewier, and that, combined with a relatively short knead time, produces a larger crumb. I like pan loaves because they make more uniform bread slices for sandwiches. However, I sometimes make boules. The dough is sufficiently stiff to allow shaping of loaves that will hold up fairly well under a two-hour rise. I prefer pans because shoving boules onto the baking stone always risks flattening them more than I like. Bottom line, I think boules are unnecessary concessions to old-timey baking where bakers did not have bread pans. If they'd had them, they might not have used them because sandwiches as we know them were not invented till servants made them for the Earl of Sandwich in 18th century England. I bake the loaves in a preheated 400-degree oven for about 45 minutes. After 20 minutes I remove them and paint the tops with beaten milk and egg. This makes the crust nice and shiny. There is little if any oven spring. I preheat the oven because I have thick, heavy baking stones in them that take an hour to heat up, and if they don't get hot, they sink the heat out of the pans, causing the bottom and sides to look uncooked while the tops are browned. These loaves come out with a distinctive flavor, aroma, and appearance. They are slightly orange in color, and you can get the hint of the garden vegetables with every bite. As for the hot peppers, you don't notice the heat when you bite into the bread. If you are not forewarned, you gradually notice a little warmth, and that is after you've eaten a slice or two. Then the warmth permeates both your mouth and your nose. I find the experience to be delightful. If your family likes a little more heat, you can add more peppers next time. I think three is just right. By the way (this is for Dick Adams and other sourdough snobs), the flavors and heat cannot be had by any method OTHER than baking them into the bread. You can't fabricate a vegetable or hot pepper sauce, spread, dip, or acoutrement that gives anywhere close to the same effect. |
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