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Moles
There is no magic to moles nor is there any definitive Mole Recipe. In
fact, Mole does not even have to contain chocolate nor an old turkey. The 4 , 7 or 9 you may choose as the authentic "mothers" are a guide. As it should be in cooking, each cook has a reason for their version and it is no different than a "spaghetti" sauce or a "chili" or even the traditional family BBQ sauce. Making Moles can be laborious and time consuming if you view it as such or a part of a fun family tradition such as making Tamales. It can be made with any number of prepared ingredients and thus has shortcuts that grate on traditionalists( usually not the one cooking) causing them to cry "foul" or is that Fowl?. Moles do have 4 basic needs that must be met in some way. 1. mole needs chile, This helps determine the type as well as the color. Please note that there are many hues, and shades of colors so do not get hung up with your Coloradito is similar in color to your Rojo. Mother Nature does not have too many dependable QA inspectors these days. The chiles are usually dried ( also roasted and /or toasted just prior to use to extract the max flavor) but they are sometimes fresh. here are a few examples: a. Amarillo. The Wax variants, i.e. Costeno Amarillo , Guero, banana, or Santa Fe Grande as well as the Yellow Bell for the yellow color b. Verde. Usually a fresh or immature chile, thus green c. Rojo. The natural red brick or Morita color of most dried Chiles such as the Guajillo or its cousin the Dried NM Red, that maroon red color of old leather or Mahogany wood. d. Coloradito. This one uses an Ancho or one of the red Pimento/Paprika chiles for this particular red color e. Negro. There are many chiles that are as Black as the color spectrum will allow. Oaxaca has two of its own but since these are hard to get outside the region, many use the "other" pasilla chiles to make their food "black". It should be noted that this mole is usually made with ingredients that are roasted and/or cooked to the point of total charring, but never burnt so as not to dilute that dark color of the chile and help retain its characteristic flavor. Every good cook knows the flavor value of roasted veggies and Meats vs. traditional boiling, sautéing, etc. 2. roasted vegetables, what ever is regional, or perhaps toots your horn as well here but Onions, Tomatoes, Tomatillos, and Garlic are pretty essential even though Garlic may go in the Seasoning Category below. This helps not only the color but the taste. 3. thickeners, are usually Masa or dried fruits; apricots, peaches, raisins, prunes, Plantains and other starches, ground nuts, such as Almonds, Walnuts, Pecan, Sesame, Peanut ( even peanut butter) and lastly we have, 4. seasonings: Every one has favorite spices and quantities of each. This also includes Broths, fats, etc., even the nefarious cumin and cilantro can be used. Also consider things like Chocolate, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice should be here. Just know your chocolate. Each group is prepared individually and then mixed together, simmered, sautéed or fried to unite the flavors, sometimes using all three cooking methods in various secret sequence. Many moles use an animal fat, particular Poultry as well as nuts for garnish. |
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