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First, let me say that Nova Scotians have got to be the nicest people
ever! Didn't meet an unpleasant person the whole time we were there. We left right after work on Wednesday, since it's a 6 hour trek to Bar Harbor where the ferry leaves from during the week. Stopped at my sister's to say bye to her and Mom, and drove as far as Freeport that evening. Ate dinner at Applebee's, a chain. Stayed at Best Western just off the highway. Thursday morning, we ate at the cafe next to the hotel. I had oatmeal, DH had the special (eggs, toast, homefries, sausage, coffee) and DD had pancakes. We didn't eat lunch, which was a good thing, since my daughter and I were seasick on the Cat ferry, a high-speed luxury boat with 4 movies and a casino on board for the 3 hour trip. We arrived in Yarmouth, NS at around 9 pm, breezed through customs, and then started walking to our motel. It was a lot further than it looked on the map, about 2 miles, since it took us almost 45 minutes at a reasonable pace. The only place open for dinner was a pizza place, so we bought one and some drinks and went back to our motel suite and ate there. That was our first indication of the friendliness of the locals. We walked in at 5 of 10, just before she was closing, but the lady was cheerful and kind, and made sure we had plates and cutlery as we left. Pizza was good, crispy crust, good cheese and toppings, but the sauce was thin and still very liquid under all. The next morning, Friday, DH went to pick up the car, and we went to a place that the desk clerk suggested for breakfast. It was right by the ferry landing, and the special was not on the menu. For $3.99, two eggs, sausage or bacon, homefries, toast, coffee and juice. I had over easy, which was done to perfection, and wheat toast. DH had scrambled and sausage, a double portion since I don't eat them. After we went back to the hotel and woke DD, we headed off up the eastern coastal lighthouse trail towards Halifax. On the way, we stopped at a lunch and ice cream place for lunch, where I had salad, DH had a burger, and DD had onion rings and cola. DH wanted to do some hiking, so we stopped at the Kejikajik seaside park, and walked out to the water. I saw my first wild pitcher plants (sooo cool!), and even what looked like spanish moss killing some of the fir trees. We hiked to the "sandy beaches of Canadia", and walked over sand and rocks until we came to a spot were we could see harbor seals sunning themselves. DH and DD were thrilled. I took more pictures of plants I didn't know, as well as the seals and beach. Oddly, or perhaps not so oddly, we didn't see too many birds. There were a lot of very noisy people on the paths as well as us. A chipmunk did stop to say hello, until I pulled out the camera, then he got shy<g>. We spent the night in Lunenburg, where we bought cereal and "milk in a box" which was my daughter's favorite comment, along with fruit and some snack foods. The motel had a kitchenette with toaster, microwave and fridge, along with paper plates and plastic cutlery, tea and coffee for the coffee maker, and pretty mugs for all. For dinner, we tried our first "Canadian Chinese" food. DD had lo mein, I had some other type of noodle dish, and DH had curry chicken. The noodle dishes were somewhat burnt tasting (like the pan had burnt, but not the food), and the curry was bland. After breakfast in the motel, we set off for Halifax, capitol city of Nova Scotia, and host to the Busker's Festival. What's a busker? Street performers of all sorts. I was hoping for lots of music, but that was all in the evening, and we were hoping to see the Bay of Fundy the next day so didn't stay that late. During the day, it seemed that the majority of the performers all included sleight-of-hand, acrobatics, fire-eating, and juggling in their acts. One fellow from Australia was so flexible that he was able to put an unstrung tennis racquet over his head, and squeeze his whole body (broad shoulders and all) through it so that he stepped out of it at the end. DH & DD liked "Bike Boy," whose act included all of the above plus chain saw juggling and a bicycle on top of a tall pole. For food, it was largely standard fare, but we did find a creperie, where the woman made crepes right before your very eyes. Not the usual fare where I'm from. I had a "pizza" crepe, and DH had one with meat. DD had an apple one, and still hungry, opted for some onion rings. We drove cross-country to the mouth of the Salmon River, and stayed in a Comfort Inn near Truro. Wandered out and found a Pizza and Donaire restaurant and decided that would be interesting, since we'd never heard of Donaires. I had my usual salad, DH had a donaire, which is like a gyro, altho the sauce was slightly sweet. DD ordered onion soup, but couldn't eat it. I tried a bit, and it tasted like they had used a sour red wine rather than a good burgundy in the base. We told the waitress, and ordered a small pizza for the kid. The manager was kind, and didn't charge us for the soup. The next morning, we ate the continental breakfast at the hotel, and headed out to see the Tidal Bore on the Salmon River. Apparently the best time to see it is at full moon or after a heavy rain. On the day we saw it, it was a very gentle reversal of the river current. Tidal bore took on a new meaning. We drove through farmlands and forests, stopping at a pub for lunch. Paul had poutine, aka heart attack on a plate. It's french fries with melted cheese curds and gravy. I had salad, and DD had... onion rings. At an Information stop, we made reservations at a B&B called the Dolphin's Rest in Hall's Harbor. Paul was hoping his foot would stop hurting so he could go hiking at a park on the tip of that peninsula. The B&B turned out to be right on the Bay of Fundy! We arrived in the late afternoon, unpacked, and went out for dinner and a movie. Ate at our first chain restaurant, Jungle Jim's. Basically Mexican food. DD had taquitos, I had a salad, and DH had quesadillas. This was the first place where I found seltzer. It doesn't seem to be available, even in the markets. We then went to see Snakes on a Plane. I walked out after the first hour, tired of watching peek-and-go-boo snakes jump out and bite various things that project from human bodies (no, not fingers or toes....). Returned for the last half hour, when the snakes had stopped biting most of the people. The other two enjoyed it. Back at the B&B, we had tea and cookies, saw that the tides were almost up to the top of the beach, and heard the boats headed out to catch sharks, the local haul. Our hostess, Diane, is an author, nurse, and anthropologist. We woke the 21st to see the tide coming in again, and went out to see what it had washed up overnight. Not too much. Like I mentioned, at waning moon, it's not as dramatic. Breakfast was blueberry pancakes, yogurt, juice, and Paul had sausages. We packed up the car, and went back to the beach. The cliffs on the other side of the docks are very tall basalt, with lots of zeolites and tormaline crystals. By 11, the tides were at peak, the beaches were almost entirely gone, and the boats were coming back in. Also, the rain had started in earnest. We drove down to Annapolis Royal, and stopped to see the Tidal power station,the only one in North America. No tours of the actual plant, but they do have an informational tour on the upper floor, showing how they built the plant, and why the tides are a good source of power. The village was a bit of a disappointment, considering it's the oldest settlement in North America of Europeans, but then, I'm not sure what I was expecting. Plus, the rain sort of put the kabosh on visiting the gardens which are one of the main attractions. Next stop was the Foxhill Cheese shop. They make artisinal cheeses, and carry a variety of other cheeses as well. I bought 8 packets of variously flavored gouda and havarti, their specialties, tasted fresh curds (salty), and bought a pint of Quark. We stopped at another supermarket and bought some ice and a cooler to keep them in. The latter will serve us well on other occassions. We headed down to Digby for dinner. Paul tried the famous Digby scallops, which were tender and sweet. I had broiled haddock which was delightful, and DD had... onion rings. I picked up some fudge and other gifts for family members, and sent a couple of post cards to coworkers and friends. I now appreciate the USPS. Postcard stamps to the states cost 89 cents Canadian! The day ended in Yarmouth again, since we didn't want to have to rush to get to the ferry for 1 pm. Same motel (they have a 2 room suite for less than the cost of some of the other motels single rooms), same breakfast place. The ferry ride seemed choppier, but none of us were sick this time. I tried their cafeteria food (never again!), and we made excellent time back to Maine, so headed south to home, stopping at a tiny roadside diner for a dinner of scallops (less expensive but just as good), First, let me say that Nova Scotians have got to be the nicest people ever! They rival this list for the best. That said, with all the websites and suggestions folks made for our trip, it was not easy to whittle it down to fit into the 4 days we had available. DH says next time, we'll fly<g>. We left right after work on Wednesday, since it's a 6 hour trek to Bar Harbor where the ferry leaves from during the week. Stopped at my sister's to say bye to her and Mom, and drove as far as Freeport that evening. Ate dinner at Applebee's, a chain. Stayed at Best Western just off the highway. Thursday morning, we ate at the cafe next to the hotel. I had oatmeal, hubby had the special (eggs, toast, homefries, sausage, coffee) and the onion ring that masquerades as my child had pancakes. More on that later. We didn't eat lunch, which was a good thing, since my daughter and I were seasick on the Cat ferry, a high-speed luxury boat with 4 movies and a casino on board for the 3 hour trip. We arrived in Yarmouth, NS at around 9 pm, breezed through customs, and then started walking to our motel. It was a lot further than it looked on the map, about 2 miles, since it took us almost 45 minutes at a reasonable pace. The only place open for dinner was a pizza place, so we bought one and some drinks and went back to our motel suite and ate there. That was our first indication of the friendliness of the locals. We walked in at 5 of 10, just before she was closing, but the lady was cheerful and kind, and made sure we had plates and cutlery as we left. Pizza was good, crispy crust, good cheese and toppings, but the sauce was thin and still very liquid under all. The next morning, Friday, DH went to pick up the car, and we went to a place that the desk clerk suggested for breakfast. It was right by the ferry landing, and the special was not on the menu. for $3.99, two eggs, sausage or bacon, homefries, toast, coffee and juice. I had over easy, which was done to perfection, and wheat toast. DH had scrambled and sausage, a double portion since I don't eat them. After we went back to the hotel and woke Onion Ring, we headed off up the eastern coastal lighthouse trail towards Halifax. On the way, we stopped at a lunch and ice cream place for lunch, where I had salad, DH had a burger, and our favorite teen had onion rings and cola. DH wanted to do some hiking, so we stopped at the Kejikajik seaside park, and walked out to the water. I saw my first wild pitcher plants (sooo cool!), and even what looked like spanish moss killing some of the fir trees. We made it to the "sandy beaches of Canadia", and walked over sand and rocks until we came to a spot were we could see harbor seals sunning themselves. DH and OR were thrilled. I took more pictures of plants I didn't know, as well as the seals and beach. Oddly, or perhaps not so oddly, we didn't see too many birds. There were a lot of very noisy people on the paths as well as us. A chipmunk did stop to say hello, until I pulled out the camera, then he got shy<G>. We spent the night in Lunenburg, where we bought cereal and "milk in a box" which was my daughter's favorite comment, along with fruit and some snack foods. The motel had a kitchenette with toaster, microwave and fridge, along with paper plates and plastic cutlery, tea and coffee for the coffee maker, and pretty mugs for all. For dinner, we tried our first "Canadian Chinese" food. DD had lo mein, I had some other type of noodle dish, and DH hand curry chicken. The noodle dishes were somewhat burnt tasting (like the pan had burnt, but not the food), and the curry was bland. After breakfast in the motel, we set off for Halifax, capitol city of Nova Scotia, and host to the Busker's Festival. What's a busker? Street performers of all sorts. I was hoping for lots of music, but that was all in the evening, and we were hoping to see the Bay of Fundy the next day so didn't stay that late. During the day, it seemed that the majority of the performers all included sleight-of-hand, acrobatics, fire-eating, and juggling in their acts. One fellow from Australia was so flexible that he was able to put an unstrung tennis racquet over his head, and squeeze his whole body (broad shoulders and all) through it so that he stepped out of it at the end. DH & OR liked "Bike Boy," whose act included all of the above plus a chain saw and a bicycle on top of a tall pole. For food, it was largely standard fare, but we did find a creperie, where the woman made crepes right before your very eyes. Not the usual fare where I'm from. I had a "pizza" crepe, and DH had one with meat. DD had an apple one, and still hungry, opted for some... onion rings. We drove cross-country to the mouth of the Salmon River, and stayed in a Comfort Inn near Truro. Wandered out and found a Pizza and Donaire restaurant and decided that would be interesting, since we'd never heard of Donaires. I had my usual salad, DH had a donaire, which is like a gyro, altho the sauce was slightly sweet. DD ordered onion soup, but couldn't eat it. I tried a bit, and it tasted like they had used a sour red wine rather than a good burgundy in the base. We told the waitress, and ordered a small pizza for the kid. The manager was kind, and didn't charge us for the soup. The next morning, we ate the continental breakfast at the hotel, and headed out to see the Tidal Bore on the Salmon River. Apparently the best time to see it is at full moon or after a heavy rain. On the day we saw it, it was a very gentle reversal of the river current. Tidal bore took on a new meaning. We drove through farmlands and forests, stopping at a pub for lunch. Paul had poutine, aka heart attack on a plate. It's french fries with melted cheese curds and gravy. I had salad, and DD had... onion rings. At an Information stop, we made reservations at a B&B called the Dolphin's Rest in Hall's Harbor. Paul was hoping his foot would stop hurting so he could go hiking at a park on the tip of that peninsula. The B&B turned out to be right on the Bay of Fundy! We arrived in the late afternoon, unpacked, and went out for dinner and a movie. Ate at our first chain restaurant, Jungle Jim's. Basically Mexican food. DD had taquitos, I had a salad, and DH had quesadillas. This was the first place where I found seltzer. It doesn't seem to be available, even in the markets. We then went to see Snakes on a Plane. I walked out after the first hour, tired of watching peek-and-go-boo snakes jump out and bite various things that project from human bodies (no, not fingers or ties....). Returned for the last half hour, when the snakes had stopped biting most of the people. The other two enjoyed it. Back at the B&B, we had tea and cookies, saw that the tides were almost up to the top of the beach, and heard the boats headed out to catch sharks, the local haul. Our hostess, Diane, is an author, nurse, and anthropologist. We woke the 21st to see the tide coming in again, and went out to see what it had washed up overnight. Not too much. Like I mentioned, at waning moon, it's not as dramatic. Breakfast was blueberry pancakes, yogurt, juice, and Paul had sausages. We packed up the car, and went back to the beach. The cliffs on the other side of the docks are very tall basalt, with lots of zeolites and tormaline crystals. By 11, the tides were at peak, the beaches were almost entirely gone, and the boats were coming back in. Also, the rain had started in earnest. We drove down to Annapolis Royal, and stopped to see the Tidal power station,the only one in North America. No tours of the actual plant, but they do have an informational tour on the upper floor, showing how they built the plant, and why the tides are a good source of power. The village was a bit of a disappointment, considering it's the oldest settlement in North America of Europeans, but then, I'm not sure what I was expecting. Plus, the rain sort of put the kabosh on visiting the gardens which are one of the main attractions. Next stop was the Foxhill Cheese shop. They make artisinal cheeses, and carry a variety of other cheeses as well. I bought 8 packets of variously flavored gouda and havarti, their specialties, tasted fresh curds (salty), and bought a pint of Quark. We stopped at another supermarket and bought some ice and a cooler to keep them in. The latter will serve us well on other occassions. We headed down to Digby for dinner. Paul tried the famous Digby scallops, which were tender and sweet. I had stuffed sole which was delightful, and DD had.... I picked up some fudge and other gifts for family members, and sent a couple of post cards to coworkers and friends. I now appreciate the USPS. Postcard stamps to the states cost 89 cents Canadian! The day ended in Yarmouth again, since we didn't want to have to rush to get to the ferry for 1 pm. Same motel (they have a 2 room suite for less than the cost of some of the other motels single rooms), same breakfast place. The ferry ride this time seemed choppier, but none of us were sick this time. I tried their cafeteria food (never again!), and we made excellent time back to Maine, so headed south to home, stopping at a tiny roadside diner for a dinner of scallops (less expensive but just as good), stuffed sole, and onion rings (guess who had what<g>). Of course, we arrived home to find that our chimney liner had lost a tile, which caused smoke to back up into the basement from the water heater, so we haven't had hot water (and probably won't until Tuesday) since we arrived home. After a week of restaurant food, I was so happy to be back in my kitchen, that I bought a nice slab of tuna, marinated it with ginger, garlic, ponzu sauce, and sesame oil, coated it with sesame seeds, and broiled it for dinner with rice and cooked veggies. Our cat, however, is now on a diet. She spent the week with my sister and Mom, after whom she is named. While I told my sister what to feed the cat, the aide who cares for Mom during the day was totally conned by that stomach on 4 legs, and fed her every time MCat went to her foodbowl! Ah, well. It's good to be home, eh? maxine in ri |
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