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I've got a big block of Parmesano-Reggiano cheese, and I'd like to use it in
appetizers next week. The two ideas I'm pondering are (1) some kind of napoleon using parmesan and (2) beef marrow with parmesan. Taking them one at a time: NAPOLEON: The main problem I have with napoleons is that when you bite into them the mousse-like filling squishes out the sides. This effect can be lessened by making the filling firmer, the napoleon bite-sized, and/or making the crusty bit less crusty. So what form should a parmesan napoleon take? One fairly obvious route would be to make parmesan crisps by mounding grated cheese onto a Silpat and cooking until melted and crisp. But to me, one of the most appealing qualities of parmesan is its inclusion of flavorful little crystals, and those crystals are diminished by grating and destroyed by cooking. So what if I just shaved off thin slices of parmesan and used that as the top and bottom of the napoleon? That would also slightly help with the problem I noted above where the filling squishes out when you bite into a napoleon. No, I can't do that; a napoleon *has* to have a crispy part or it isn't a napoleon, at least not to me. On the other hand, who cares if it meets a strict definition of napoleon? I don't *have* to make a napoleon; I'm not committed to the idea at all. How about a kind of canapé with a crisp bottom, a filling, and a slice of parmesan on top? But wait, wouldn't the squishing problem be *completely* eliminated if I put the slice of parmesan right onto the crispy bottom, and put the soft filling on top? (Of course, then it wouldn't be a "filling" anymore, it would become a "topping." But it would still be something like a mousse in texture.) What about that crispy bottom; does it *have* to be a parmesan crisp? Those things can be leathery now and then, and I wouldn't want that. So how about if I made the bottom out of docked puff pastry instead? Well, I hate to sacrifice that crisped parmesan flavor; maybe I could sprinkle parmesan very sparsely on a Silpat and cook until it was completely brown and crisp, and sprinkle that over the mousse. Yeah, I think that'll be it: Puff pastry bottom, topped with a slice of parmesan, topped with some kind of mousse, and ultimately topped with crisp browned parmesan slivers. BEEF MARROW: Initially I thought it was a given that I'd roast the beef marrow, but now I'm leaning toward poaching it instead; the delicacy of the marrow is retained that way. Putting parmesan on poached marrow seems a bit too simplistic, though, and I'd like something which could be eaten with bare hands. Both the marrow and the cheese are exceptionally fatty, so it would be nice to have a base which wasn't fatty, along with some acidic and/or herbal counterpoints. I thought about celery, but it's not the right size or shape. I thought about Ritz crackers, but they're too buttery. I thought about Wheat Thins, but they're too aggressively crunchy and health-foody. I thought about lettuce, but it would be too awkward. I thought I was on to something with the idea of toasted pita rounds, and I was about to settle on that until I thought of Belgian endive. Belgian endive leaves are the right size and shape, and the bitterness will help offset the richness of the marrow and cheese. So Belgian endive, poached marrow, and parmesan...is there anything else needed? Maybe a light drizzle of a mustardy vinaigrette? Herbs -- WHAT herbs? I think a bit of tarragon in the vinaigrette would be adequate. That "clicks": Belgian endive base, poached marrow, tarragon-mustard vinaigrette, and generous shavings of parmesan. At this stage it's still purely conceptual; I'll be making the final products next Wednesday. Do those sound like good uses for the parmesan? Bob |
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In article >,
"Bob Terwilliger" > wrote: > I've got a big block of Parmesano-Reggiano cheese, and I'd like to use it in > appetizers next week. The two ideas I'm pondering are (1) some kind of > napoleon using parmesan and (2) beef marrow with parmesan. Taking them one > at a time: Where do you get beef marrow by itself? I've only been able to find it in stew bones so I don't get a lot of it. I'd not poach it. You'd lose too much that way as it melts? I think the roasted flavor adds a complimentary note which is why I always roast beef stew bones before starting my stew any more. I didn't used to, but I've learned. <g> I mostly use Parmesan cheese as a garnish or topping, but I'd lean more towards making some cheese flavored Croissants with it. Think Red Lobster cheese biscuits. They are one of the most popular foods there. ;-d -- Peace! Om "Human nature seems to be to control other people until they put their foot down." --Steve Rothstein Web Albums: <http://picasaweb.google.com/OMPOmelet> Subscribe: |
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Om wrote:
> Where do you get beef marrow by itself? I've only been able to find it > in stew bones so I don't get a lot of it. There's a local meat market which sells split beef femurs. > I'd not poach it. You'd lose too much that way as it melts? Other way around: I'd lose *much* more of the marrow by roasting. Poaching is conducted at a lower temperature, so less marrow melts. > I mostly use Parmesan cheese as a garnish or topping, but I'd lean more > towards making some cheese flavored Croissants with it. Think Red > Lobster cheese biscuits. They are one of the most popular foods there. If made correctly, parmesan croissants would be a great deal of trouble, and would only be a kind of side dish in a meal where they wouldn't go all that well with the main course. (They're also very high in carbs, but that's not the overriding concern.) Conceivably, parmesan croissants could be served with fruit *after* the main course, and before dessert. Oh dear... I just realized that I don't think anybody's planning dessert! Bob |
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In article >,
"Bob Terwilliger" > wrote: > Om wrote: > > > Where do you get beef marrow by itself? I've only been able to find it > > in stew bones so I don't get a lot of it. > > There's a local meat market which sells split beef femurs. Ooh I'm jealous. I love marrow! > > > > I'd not poach it. You'd lose too much that way as it melts? > > Other way around: I'd lose *much* more of the marrow by roasting. Poaching > is conducted at a lower temperature, so less marrow melts. Ok. > > > > I mostly use Parmesan cheese as a garnish or topping, but I'd lean more > > towards making some cheese flavored Croissants with it. Think Red > > Lobster cheese biscuits. They are one of the most popular foods there. > > If made correctly, parmesan croissants would be a great deal of trouble, and > would only be a kind of side dish in a meal where they wouldn't go all that > well with the main course. (They're also very high in carbs, but that's not > the overriding concern.) > > Conceivably, parmesan croissants could be served with fruit *after* the main > course, and before dessert. > > Oh dear... I just realized that I don't think anybody's planning dessert! > > Bob Desert is easy. Just make apple pie and whipping cream. <g> As for the parm', it'd also go well with zucchini. -- Peace! Om "Human nature seems to be to control other people until they put their foot down." --Steve Rothstein Web Albums: <http://picasaweb.google.com/OMPOmelet> Subscribe: |
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In article >,
"Bob Terwilliger" > wrote: > If made correctly, parmesan croissants would be a great deal of trouble, and > would only be a kind of side dish in a meal where they wouldn't go all that > well with the main course. (They're also very high in carbs, but that's not > the overriding concern.) I don't entirely agree with this. Parmesan is a very strongly flavored cheese. If you wanted to cheat, Pillsbury makes an acceptable croissant in a tube and you could just add parm' (and any other flavorings) to them before you roll them, then sprinkle a little more on top. My sister made them for Christmas with my help. They were very good. -- Peace! Om "Human nature seems to be to control other people until they put their foot down." --Steve Rothstein Web Albums: <http://picasaweb.google.com/OMPOmelet> Subscribe: |
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In article >,
Omelet > wrote: > In article >, > "Bob Terwilliger" > wrote: > > > If made correctly, parmesan croissants would be a great deal of trouble, and > > would only be a kind of side dish in a meal where they wouldn't go all that > > well with the main course. (They're also very high in carbs, but that's not > > the overriding concern.) > I don't entirely agree with this. Parmesan is a very strongly flavored > cheese. If you wanted to cheat, Pillsbury makes an acceptable croissant > in a tube and you could just add parm' (and any other flavorings) to > them before you roll them, then sprinkle a little more on top. Are you serious? Why do I think Bob would sooner slit his wrist than use a Pillsbury tube biscuit product? <g> -- -Barb, Mother Superior, HOSSSPoJ http://web.me.com/barbschaller Bean soup with sausage and kale, 3-1-2010 |
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In article
>, Melba's Jammin' > wrote: > In article >, > Omelet > wrote: > > > In article >, > > "Bob Terwilliger" > wrote: > > > > > If made correctly, parmesan croissants would be a great deal of trouble, > > > and > > > would only be a kind of side dish in a meal where they wouldn't go all > > > that > > > well with the main course. (They're also very high in carbs, but that's > > > not > > > the overriding concern.) > > > I don't entirely agree with this. Parmesan is a very strongly flavored > > cheese. If you wanted to cheat, Pillsbury makes an acceptable croissant > > in a tube and you could just add parm' (and any other flavorings) to > > them before you roll them, then sprinkle a little more on top. > > Are you serious? Why do I think Bob would sooner slit his wrist than > use a Pillsbury tube biscuit product? <g> <lol> You are probably right. :-) But if he were to make a sheet croissant crust and cut it into triangles (after sprinkling the parm' and garlic over it), rolling them into the proper pastry shape would be a breeze. I don't see it being a real time consuming project. But the doughboy product would be quicker. <g> You know that I have no issue with some kitchen "cheats"! -- Peace! Om "Human nature seems to be to control other people until they put their foot down." --Steve Rothstein Web Albums: <http://picasaweb.google.com/OMPOmelet> Subscribe: |
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Barb stuck up for me:
>> If you wanted to cheat, Pillsbury makes an acceptable croissant in a tube >> and you could just add parm' (and any other flavorings) to them before >> you roll them, then sprinkle a little more on top. > > Are you serious? Why do I think Bob would sooner slit his wrist than > use a Pillsbury tube biscuit product? <g> I don't mind those every now and then, but I wouldn't call them croissants. "Crescent roll" would be more accurate, and "crescent industrial roll product" would be more accurate still. I just don't think they'd be appropriate for *this* dinner. Bob |
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![]() "Bob Terwilliger" > wrote in message ... > I've got a big block of Parmesano-Reggiano cheese, and I'd like to use it > in appetizers next week. The two ideas I'm pondering are (1) some kind of > napoleon using parmesan and (2) beef marrow with parmesan. Taking them one > at a time: > > NAPOLEON: The main problem I have with napoleons is that when you bite > into them the mousse-like filling squishes out the sides. This effect can > be lessened by making the filling firmer, the napoleon bite-sized, and/or > making the crusty bit less crusty. So what form should a parmesan napoleon > take? One fairly obvious route would be to make parmesan crisps by > mounding grated cheese onto a Silpat and cooking until melted and crisp. > But to me, one of the most appealing qualities of parmesan is its > inclusion of flavorful little crystals, and those crystals are diminished > by grating and destroyed by cooking. So what if I just shaved off thin > slices of parmesan and used that as the top and bottom of the napoleon? > That would also slightly help with the problem I noted above where the > filling squishes out when you bite into a napoleon. No, I can't do that; a > napoleon *has* to have a crispy part or it isn't a napoleon, at least not > to me. On the other hand, who cares if it meets a strict definition of > napoleon? I don't *have* to make a napoleon; I'm not committed to the idea > at all. How about a kind of canapé with a crisp bottom, a filling, and a > slice of parmesan on top? But wait, wouldn't the squishing problem be > *completely* eliminated if I put the slice of parmesan right onto the > crispy bottom, and put the soft filling on top? (Of course, then it > wouldn't be a "filling" anymore, it would become a "topping." But it would > still be something like a mousse in texture.) What about that crispy > bottom; does it *have* to be a parmesan crisp? Those things can be > leathery now and then, and I wouldn't want that. So how about if I made > the bottom out of docked puff pastry instead? Well, I hate to sacrifice > that crisped parmesan flavor; maybe I could sprinkle parmesan very > sparsely on a Silpat and cook until it was completely brown and crisp, and > sprinkle that over the mousse. Yeah, I think that'll be it: Puff pastry > bottom, topped with a slice of parmesan, topped with some kind of mousse, > and ultimately topped with crisp browned parmesan slivers. > > BEEF MARROW: Initially I thought it was a given that I'd roast the beef > marrow, but now I'm leaning toward poaching it instead; the delicacy of > the marrow is retained that way. Putting parmesan on poached marrow seems > a bit too simplistic, though, and I'd like something which could be eaten > with bare hands. Both the marrow and the cheese are exceptionally fatty, > so it would be nice to have a base which wasn't fatty, along with some > acidic and/or herbal counterpoints. I thought about celery, but it's not > the right size or shape. I thought about Ritz crackers, but they're too > buttery. I thought about Wheat Thins, but they're too aggressively crunchy > and health-foody. I thought about lettuce, but it would be too awkward. I > thought I was on to something with the idea of toasted pita rounds, and I > was about to settle on that until I thought of Belgian endive. Belgian > endive leaves are the right size and shape, and the bitterness will help > offset the richness of the marrow and cheese. So Belgian endive, poached > marrow, and parmesan...is there anything else needed? Maybe a light > drizzle of a mustardy vinaigrette? Herbs -- WHAT herbs? I think a bit of > tarragon in the vinaigrette would be adequate. That "clicks": Belgian > endive base, poached marrow, tarragon-mustard vinaigrette, and generous > shavings of parmesan. > > At this stage it's still purely conceptual; I'll be making the final > products next Wednesday. Do those sound like good uses for the parmesan? > > Bob Parmesan and marrow seems too rich a combination to me. Also, I love the taste of marrow, but wouldn't the taste of Parm overshadow it? How about crostini instead of Napoleon? That is essentially what you are describing anyway. Janet |
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On Sat, 6 Mar 2010 07:08:27 -0700, "Janet Bostwick"
> wrote: > >"Bob Terwilliger" > wrote in message . .. >> I've got a big block of Parmesano-Reggiano cheese, and I'd like to use it >> in appetizers next week. The two ideas I'm pondering are (1) some kind of >> napoleon using parmesan and (2) beef marrow with parmesan. Taking them one >> at a time: >> >> NAPOLEON: The main problem I have with napoleons is that when you bite >> into them the mousse-like filling squishes out the sides. This effect can >> be lessened by making the filling firmer, the napoleon bite-sized, and/or >> making the crusty bit less crusty. So what form should a parmesan napoleon >> take? One fairly obvious route would be to make parmesan crisps by >> mounding grated cheese onto a Silpat and cooking until melted and crisp. >> But to me, one of the most appealing qualities of parmesan is its >> inclusion of flavorful little crystals, and those crystals are diminished >> by grating and destroyed by cooking. So what if I just shaved off thin >> slices of parmesan and used that as the top and bottom of the napoleon? >> That would also slightly help with the problem I noted above where the >> filling squishes out when you bite into a napoleon. No, I can't do that; a >> napoleon *has* to have a crispy part or it isn't a napoleon, at least not >> to me. On the other hand, who cares if it meets a strict definition of >> napoleon? I don't *have* to make a napoleon; I'm not committed to the idea >> at all. How about a kind of canapé with a crisp bottom, a filling, and a >> slice of parmesan on top? But wait, wouldn't the squishing problem be >> *completely* eliminated if I put the slice of parmesan right onto the >> crispy bottom, and put the soft filling on top? (Of course, then it >> wouldn't be a "filling" anymore, it would become a "topping." But it would >> still be something like a mousse in texture.) What about that crispy >> bottom; does it *have* to be a parmesan crisp? Those things can be >> leathery now and then, and I wouldn't want that. So how about if I made >> the bottom out of docked puff pastry instead? Well, I hate to sacrifice >> that crisped parmesan flavor; maybe I could sprinkle parmesan very >> sparsely on a Silpat and cook until it was completely brown and crisp, and >> sprinkle that over the mousse. Yeah, I think that'll be it: Puff pastry >> bottom, topped with a slice of parmesan, topped with some kind of mousse, >> and ultimately topped with crisp browned parmesan slivers. >> >> BEEF MARROW: Initially I thought it was a given that I'd roast the beef >> marrow, but now I'm leaning toward poaching it instead; the delicacy of >> the marrow is retained that way. Putting parmesan on poached marrow seems >> a bit too simplistic, though, and I'd like something which could be eaten >> with bare hands. Both the marrow and the cheese are exceptionally fatty, >> so it would be nice to have a base which wasn't fatty, along with some >> acidic and/or herbal counterpoints. I thought about celery, but it's not >> the right size or shape. I thought about Ritz crackers, but they're too >> buttery. I thought about Wheat Thins, but they're too aggressively crunchy >> and health-foody. I thought about lettuce, but it would be too awkward. I >> thought I was on to something with the idea of toasted pita rounds, and I >> was about to settle on that until I thought of Belgian endive. Belgian >> endive leaves are the right size and shape, and the bitterness will help >> offset the richness of the marrow and cheese. So Belgian endive, poached >> marrow, and parmesan...is there anything else needed? Maybe a light >> drizzle of a mustardy vinaigrette? Herbs -- WHAT herbs? I think a bit of >> tarragon in the vinaigrette would be adequate. That "clicks": Belgian >> endive base, poached marrow, tarragon-mustard vinaigrette, and generous >> shavings of parmesan. >> >> At this stage it's still purely conceptual; I'll be making the final >> products next Wednesday. Do those sound like good uses for the parmesan? >> >> Bob > Parmesan and marrow seems too rich a combination to me. Also, I love the >taste of marrow, but wouldn't the taste of Parm overshadow it? How about >crostini instead of Napoleon? That is essentially what you are describing >anyway. >Janet Marrow with any cheese is nth degree TIAD. Worra not, it's all fantasy key-bored kookery... da plain, da plain! Ahahahahaha. . . . |
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Janet wrote:
> Parmesan and marrow seems too rich a combination to me. Also, I love the > taste of marrow, but wouldn't the taste of Parm overshadow it? Yes, but in this case that's okay, because the parmesan is supposed to be the "featured item." The marrow is just there to add a kind of grace note. > How about crostini instead of Napoleon? That is essentially what you are > describing anyway. YES! Thank you. That makes more sense than what I'd had in mind. Bob |
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![]() "Bob Terwilliger" > ha > Janet wrote: > >> How about crostini instead of Napoleon? That is essentially what you are >> describing anyway. > > YES! Thank you. That makes more sense than what I'd had in mind. One of my readers recently wrote me to discuss making profiteroles with some cheese mousses I published a year or so ago. She made the pate choux with parmesan, formed them bite sized and filled them with my three mousses. She had been worried they might get soggy, but reported that they disappeared so fast they couldn't. |
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Giusi wrote:
>>> How about crostini instead of Napoleon? That is essentially what you >>> are describing anyway. >> >> YES! Thank you. That makes more sense than what I'd had in mind. > > One of my readers recently wrote me to discuss making profiteroles with > some cheese mousses I published a year or so ago. She made the pate choux > with parmesan, formed them bite sized and filled them with my three > mousses. She had been worried they might get soggy, but reported that > they disappeared so fast they couldn't. That sounds very good, too. In this case, I want to pair parmesan with beets somehow. Back when I was working the "napoleon" idea, I was going to make Barb Schaller's "boiled dirt jelly" using gelatin instead of pectin, and then whip it into a mousse. As I mentioned in my initial post in this thread, though, I want to try to keep the crystals in the parmesan, and cooking them in pte ą choux would destroy them. I could make a beet-raspberry choux pastry and fill it with a parmesan mousse instead, but I think the beet flavor might be too muted. The choux idea's a good one, though. I might make parmesan choux pastries, split them open, and fill with beet-jelly mousse *and* uncooked parmesan shards. I'll have to mull it over. Bob |
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In article >,
"Bob Terwilliger" > wrote: > was about to settle on that until I thought of Belgian endive. Belgian > endive leaves are the right size and shape, and the bitterness will help > offset the richness of the marrow and cheese. So Belgian endive, poached > marrow, and parmesan...is there anything else needed? Maybe a light drizzle > products next Wednesday. Do those sound like good uses for the parmesan? > Bob Heck if I know, but I was struck by the thought that unless your marrow appetizer is served *immediately* after assembling, the fat's going to start to congeal and it'll lose its charm. I guess I'm figuring that the endive will be cold or at least cool, which would contribute to the fast cooling of the marrow. -- -Barb, Mother Superior, HOSSSPoJ http://web.me.com/barbschaller Bean soup with sausage and kale, 3-1-2010 |
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In article >,
"Bob Terwilliger" > wrote: > when you bite into a napoleon. No, I can't do that; a napoleon *has* to have > a crispy part or it isn't a napoleon, at least not to me. On the other hand, > who cares if it meets a strict definition of napoleon? > Bob You'd better hope there's not a codified recipe for napoleons out there, or you'll be in the soup for misusing the name. -- -Barb, Mother Superior, HOSSSPoJ http://web.me.com/barbschaller Bean soup with sausage and kale, 3-1-2010 |
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Bob Terwilliger > wrote:
> I've got a big block of Parmesano-Reggiano cheese, and I'd like to use it in > appetizers next week. The two ideas I'm pondering are (1) some kind of > napoleon using parmesan and (2) beef marrow with parmesan. Accademia Barilla features a video recipe of risotto served in parmesan bowls which are cooked on parchment paper in a microwave. Maybe this idea could be used somehow? <http://www.academiabarilla.com/recipes/video-recipes/risotto-with-porcini-mushrooms-truffled-pecorino.aspx> A combination of bone marrow and parmesan (or some other grana cheese) is not unknown, but I am not aware of any such appetizer. There is, however, pearą, a Venetian (particularly Veronese) sauce served with bollito misto. It is made with bone marrow, olive oil, breadcrumbs, parmesan or grana padano, salt and pepper. Some recipes omit the cheese. An idea which would to some extent incorporate both of yours would be adapting Marc Meneau's famous cromesquis-with-foie-gras recipe I posted some nine years ago. The fat content of the filling is similar to that of bone marrow and parmesan. <http://www.globalgourmet.com/food/special/1999/foiegras/cromesquis.html> Victor |
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Victor wrote:
> An idea which would to some extent incorporate both of yours would be > adapting Marc Meneau's famous cromesquis-with-foie-gras recipe I posted > some nine years ago. The fat content of the filling is similar to that > of bone marrow and parmesan. > > <http://www.globalgourmet.com/food/special/1999/foiegras/cromesquis.html> Hmmm... That's a fascinating idea. I'll consider something like that. Thanks! Bob |
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Cheryl > wrote:
> Victor Sack wrote: > > > <http://www.globalgourmet.com/food/sp...egras/cromesqu > > is.html> > > Just this portion of the link you provided has so many > possibilities! > > To make the Parmesan bowls I think you mean the first link I posted, from Accademia Barilla: <http://www.academiabarilla.com/recipes/video-recipes/risotto-with-porcini-mushrooms-truffled-pecorino.aspx> > Would you put the melted cheese on the bowl along with the waxed > paper then pull it off when cooled? There is a nice video at the site, with chef Matteo Carboni showing how it is done. Victor |
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![]() "Bob Terwilliger" > wrote in message ... > I've got a big block of Parmesano-Reggiano cheese, and I'd like to use it > in appetizers next week. From BBC Good Food: Parmesan custard with anchovy toasts Ingredients 300ml single cream (18% BF) 300ml milk 100g finely grated parmesan 4 egg yolks 1 pinch cayenne pepper 12 tinned anchovies 50g unsalted butter 8 very thin slices pain de campagne or crisp toast Method 1. Mix the cream, milk and all but a tablespoon of the parmesan cheese in a bowl and warm it gently over a pan of boiling water until the cheese has fully melted. Allow to cool completely before whisking in the egg yolks, salt, finely milled white pepper and a little cayenne pepper. 2. Preheat oven to 150C/gas 2. Lightly butter 8 china moulds of 80ml capacity and share the mixture between them. Place the moulds in a roasting tin filled to 3cm deep with boiling water, cover with buttered paper and bake for 15 minutes or until the mixture has just set. 3. Mash the anchovies and butter to a smooth paste and spread over four of the slices of bread. Cover with the remaining bread and toast in a sandwich maker or Panini machine. 4. Sprinkle the remaining Parmesan cheese over the warm custard moulds and brown gently under a hot grill. Cut the toasted anchovy sandwiches into little fingers and serve alongside the custards. |
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![]() "graham" > wrote in message ... > > "Bob Terwilliger" > wrote in message > ... >> I've got a big block of Parmesano-Reggiano cheese, and I'd like to use it >> in appetizers next week. > From BBC Good Food: > > Parmesan custard with anchovy toasts > I should have given the original: http://www.ft.com/cms/s/2/65a0d20a-3...nclick_check=1 Graham |
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