Hello gorgeous people

Whilst trying to be a computer Whizz.......... I deleted all the responses
I received as to how ppl would 'season' their chopping boards. Now, I
can't get them back.

Can you tell me again. Sowwy.

I don't know what type of wood mine is made of. I wiped it a little
with some oil of some sort..... chopped/carved a bit &, whilst I expected to
get 'marks' in the board I didn't think pieces of it would start to give
way.

Raelene
xxx

>Whilst trying to be a computer Whizz.......... I deleted all the responses
>I received as to how ppl would 'season' their chopping boards. Now, I
>can't get them back.
-------------------------------------
Go to this web site:
http://www.google.com/advanced_group_search?hl=en

It is "Google Advanced Group Search"--fill in some of the blanks, and you
should be able to retrieve what you're looking for.
Nancree

Raelene wrote:

> Hello gorgeous people
>
> I don't know what type of wood mine is made of. I wiped it a little
> with some oil of some sort..... chopped/carved a bit &, whilst I expected to
> get 'marks' in the board I didn't think pieces of it would start to give
> way.

If it's the sort of board that sits on a counter top, it's not for
chopping. It's for slicing or gentle knifework. Blocks for chopping
are heavy, several times as thick and are typically made of rock
maple, end-grain up. Butchers have them and no one else I've ever seen.

Without knowing how badly it's scarred, I can suggest sanding it to
smooth it out and then oiling generously with any sort of kitchen oil
(I don't like the smell that develops with olive oil, but I know
people who use it). Let the oil soak into the wood for an hour or two
and wipe clean. Do that about once a month with normal use.

The board can be washed with soapy water, rinsed and air dried. When
it looks like it needs it, reoil.

Pastorio

"Bob Pastorio" > wrote in message
...
> Raelene wrote:
>
*snip snip*

> > I don't know what type of wood mine is made of. I wiped it a
little
> > with some oil of some sort..... chopped/carved a bit &, whilst I
expected to
> > get 'marks' in the board I didn't think pieces of it would start to give
way.
>
> If it's the sort of board that sits on a counter top, it's not for
> chopping. It's for slicing or gentle knifework. Blocks for chopping
> are heavy, several times as thick and are typically made of rock
> maple, end-grain up. Butchers have them and no one else I've ever seen.

Oh, ok then......... it's a cutting board. Sorry, wrong use of a word.

> Without knowing how badly it's scarred, I can suggest sanding it to
> smooth it out and then oiling generously with any sort of kitchen oil
> (I don't like the smell that develops with olive oil, but I know
> people who use it). Let the oil soak into the wood for an hour or two
> and wipe clean. Do that about once a month with normal use.

It's only very slightly scarred.. when it started to show signs of the
splintering, I stopped using it. It's in the tea-chest.... along with the
iron. ;-)

Raelene
xxx

Raelene wrote:
>
> It's only very slightly scarred.. when it started to show signs
> of the splintering, I stopped using it. It's in the tea-chest....
> along with the iron. ;-)

natch.

lea b > wrote:
>Raelene wrote:
>>
>> It's only very slightly scarred.. when it started to show signs
>> of the splintering, I stopped using it. It's in the tea-chest....
>> along with the iron. ;-)
>
>natch.

The cutting board, in the tea chest, with the iron.

--Blair
"Are we playing Clue?"

>It's only very slightly scarred.. when it started to show signs of the
>splintering, I stopped using it. It's in the tea-chest.... along with the
>iron. ;-)

If it is less than 12" wide, find a woodworker and have him run it
through his planer.

Remove TIE to reply.

http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-billslitterbox

On 01/03/2004 12:36 AM, in article , "Bob
Pastorio" > opined:

> Raelene wrote:
>
>> Hello gorgeous people
>>
>> I don't know what type of wood mine is made of. I wiped it a little
>> with some oil of some sort..... chopped/carved a bit &, whilst I expected to
>> get 'marks' in the board I didn't think pieces of it would start to give
>> way.
>
> If it's the sort of board that sits on a counter top, it's not for
> chopping. It's for slicing or gentle knifework. Blocks for chopping
> are heavy, several times as thick and are typically made of rock
> maple, end-grain up. Butchers have them and no one else I've ever seen.
>
> Without knowing how badly it's scarred, I can suggest sanding it to
> smooth it out and then oiling generously with any sort of kitchen oil
> (I don't like the smell that develops with olive oil, but I know
> people who use it). Let the oil soak into the wood for an hour or two
> and wipe clean. Do that about once a month with normal use.
>
> The board can be washed with soapy water, rinsed and air dried. When
> it looks like it needs it, reoil.
>
> Pastorio
>

Mineral oil doesn't go rancid like organic cooking oils.

If you are really motivated and have a finishing random orbit sander (not a
belt sander) start at 80 grit, then 100, 150, 200 and wipe it down with
several coats of mineral oil.

Good as new.
--
================================================== =====================
The principal difference between genius and stupidity is that there are
limits to genius!
================================================== =====================

In article >,
The Wolf > wrote:

> On 01/03/2004 12:36 AM, in article , "Bob
> Pastorio" > opined:
>
> > Raelene wrote:
> >
> >> Hello gorgeous people
> >>
> >> I don't know what type of wood mine is made of. I wiped it a
> >> little
> >> with some oil of some sort..... chopped/carved a bit &, whilst I expected
> >> to
> >> get 'marks' in the board I didn't think pieces of it would start to give
> >> way.
> >
> > If it's the sort of board that sits on a counter top, it's not for
> > chopping. It's for slicing or gentle knifework. Blocks for chopping
> > are heavy, several times as thick and are typically made of rock
> > maple, end-grain up. Butchers have them and no one else I've ever seen.
> >
> > Without knowing how badly it's scarred, I can suggest sanding it to
> > smooth it out and then oiling generously with any sort of kitchen oil
> > (I don't like the smell that develops with olive oil, but I know
> > people who use it). Let the oil soak into the wood for an hour or two
> > and wipe clean. Do that about once a month with normal use.
> >
> > The board can be washed with soapy water, rinsed and air dried. When
> > it looks like it needs it, reoil.
> >
> > Pastorio
> >
>
> Mineral oil doesn't go rancid like organic cooking oils.
>
> If you are really motivated and have a finishing random orbit sander (not a
> belt sander) start at 80 grit, then 100, 150, 200 and wipe it down with
> several coats of mineral oil.
>
> Good as new.


Only 200 grit??? <shocked look>
I like the glossy finish that 600 grit gives. :-)

I do it by hand.

K.

--
>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby >,,<
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

On 01/03/2004 8:06 AM, in article
, "Katra"
> opined:

> In article >,
> The Wolf > wrote:
>
>> On 01/03/2004 12:36 AM, in article , "Bob
>> Pastorio" > opined:
>>
>>> Raelene wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hello gorgeous people
>>>>
>>>> I don't know what type of wood mine is made of. I wiped it a
>>>> little
>>>> with some oil of some sort..... chopped/carved a bit &, whilst I expected
>>>> to
>>>> get 'marks' in the board I didn't think pieces of it would start to give
>>>> way.
>>>
>>> If it's the sort of board that sits on a counter top, it's not for
>>> chopping. It's for slicing or gentle knifework. Blocks for chopping
>>> are heavy, several times as thick and are typically made of rock
>>> maple, end-grain up. Butchers have them and no one else I've ever seen.
>>>
>>> Without knowing how badly it's scarred, I can suggest sanding it to
>>> smooth it out and then oiling generously with any sort of kitchen oil
>>> (I don't like the smell that develops with olive oil, but I know
>>> people who use it). Let the oil soak into the wood for an hour or two
>>> and wipe clean. Do that about once a month with normal use.
>>>
>>> The board can be washed with soapy water, rinsed and air dried. When
>>> it looks like it needs it, reoil.
>>>
>>> Pastorio
>>>
>>
>> Mineral oil doesn't go rancid like organic cooking oils.
>>
>> If you are really motivated and have a finishing random orbit sander (not a
>> belt sander) start at 80 grit, then 100, 150, 200 and wipe it down with
>> several coats of mineral oil.
>>
>> Good as new.
>
>
> Only 200 grit??? <shocked look>
> I like the glossy finish that 600 grit gives. :-)
>
> I do it by hand.
>
> K.

You've never worked with 600 grit and wouldn't know where to buy it if you
wanted to.
--
================================================== ========================
"If George W. Bush announced that a cure for cancer had been discovered,
Democrats would complain about unemployed laboratory rats," Ann Coulter.
================================================== ========================

In article >,
The Wolf > wrote:

> On 01/03/2004 8:06 AM, in article
> , "Katra"
> > opined:
> >
> > Only 200 grit??? <shocked look>
> > I like the glossy finish that 600 grit gives. :-)
> >
> > I do it by hand.
> >
> > K.
>
> You've never worked with 600 grit and wouldn't know where to buy it if you
> wanted to.


Care to take a wager on that grasshoppper???

I've used it also for polishing columbian copal.......

Remember, I do stone and jewelry work.

Idiot.

K.

--
>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby >,,<
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

The Wolf wrote:

> On 01/03/2004 12:36 AM, in article , "Bob
> Pastorio" > opined:
>
>
>>Raelene wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Hello gorgeous people
>>>
>>>I don't know what type of wood mine is made of. I wiped it a little
>>>with some oil of some sort..... chopped/carved a bit &, whilst I expected to
>>>get 'marks' in the board I didn't think pieces of it would start to give
>>>way.
>>
>>If it's the sort of board that sits on a counter top, it's not for
>>chopping. It's for slicing or gentle knifework. Blocks for chopping
>>are heavy, several times as thick and are typically made of rock
>>maple, end-grain up. Butchers have them and no one else I've ever seen.
>>
>>Without knowing how badly it's scarred, I can suggest sanding it to
>>smooth it out and then oiling generously with any sort of kitchen oil
>>(I don't like the smell that develops with olive oil, but I know
>>people who use it). Let the oil soak into the wood for an hour or two
>>and wipe clean. Do that about once a month with normal use.
>>
>>The board can be washed with soapy water, rinsed and air dried. When
>>it looks like it needs it, reoil.
>>
>>Pastorio
>>
>
>
> Mineral oil doesn't go rancid like organic cooking oils.

It may be that my experience is different than most people's, but I
used mineral oil once and misplaced the bottle because I don't use it
for anything else. I've used neutral oils (soy, cottonseed, canola,
etc.) for seasoning cast iron and for oiling both cutting boards and
chopping blocks. I've never had anything smell rancid. My boards hang
on the side of a wooden cabinet. Chopping block sits on it's huge legs
on the floor (I'm getting rid of it because I don't do much
carcass-cutting butchery any more. Takes up too much space and I've
traded it to a neighbor.)

> If you are really motivated and have a finishing random orbit sander (not a
> belt sander) start at 80 grit, then 100, 150, 200 and wipe it down with
> several coats of mineral oil.

Yep. I'd wash it first to get the surface oil off. Sandpaper lasts
longer that way. I usually rub it with a stainless steel scrubby pad
before sanding. Gets the loose surface stuff off.

My wooden cutting boards are pecan, rock maple, oak and locust (along
with a few plastics.) I like the pecan and maple ones best. Prettier
grain and warmer luster. My grandfather made the pecan boards almost a
century ago, so they're special. My kids are already politicking for
them. No prob. I have enough to go around. Also have a black walnut
inlaid, red maple board that I use as a service tray. Too pretty to
score with blade marks.

I use kitchen oils on all of them. My woodworker neighbor shakes his
head when I tell him what I do, but he never refuses a meal. <g>

Pastorio

On 01/03/2004 9:46 PM, in article , "Bob
Pastorio" > opined:

> The Wolf wrote:
>
>> On 01/03/2004 12:36 AM, in article , "Bob
>> Pastorio" > opined:
>>
>>
>>> Raelene wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> Hello gorgeous people
>>>>
>>>> I don't know what type of wood mine is made of. I wiped it a
>>>> little
>>>> with some oil of some sort..... chopped/carved a bit &, whilst I expected
>>>> to
>>>> get 'marks' in the board I didn't think pieces of it would start to give
>>>> way.
>>>
>>> If it's the sort of board that sits on a counter top, it's not for
>>> chopping. It's for slicing or gentle knifework. Blocks for chopping
>>> are heavy, several times as thick and are typically made of rock
>>> maple, end-grain up. Butchers have them and no one else I've ever seen.
>>>
>>> Without knowing how badly it's scarred, I can suggest sanding it to
>>> smooth it out and then oiling generously with any sort of kitchen oil
>>> (I don't like the smell that develops with olive oil, but I know
>>> people who use it). Let the oil soak into the wood for an hour or two
>>> and wipe clean. Do that about once a month with normal use.
>>>
>>> The board can be washed with soapy water, rinsed and air dried. When
>>> it looks like it needs it, reoil.
>>>
>>> Pastorio
>>>
>>
>>
>> Mineral oil doesn't go rancid like organic cooking oils.
>
> It may be that my experience is different than most people's, but I
> used mineral oil once and misplaced the bottle because I don't use it
> for anything else. I've used neutral oils (soy, cottonseed, canola,
> etc.) for seasoning cast iron and for oiling both cutting boards and
> chopping blocks. I've never had anything smell rancid. My boards hang
> on the side of a wooden cabinet. Chopping block sits on it's huge legs
> on the floor (I'm getting rid of it because I don't do much
> carcass-cutting butchery any more. Takes up too much space and I've
> traded it to a neighbor.)
>
>> If you are really motivated and have a finishing random orbit sander (not a
>> belt sander) start at 80 grit, then 100, 150, 200 and wipe it down with
>> several coats of mineral oil.
>
> Yep. I'd wash it first to get the surface oil off. Sandpaper lasts
> longer that way. I usually rub it with a stainless steel scrubby pad
> before sanding. Gets the loose surface stuff off.
>
> My wooden cutting boards are pecan, rock maple, oak and locust (along
> with a few plastics.) I like the pecan and maple ones best. Prettier
> grain and warmer luster. My grandfather made the pecan boards almost a
> century ago, so they're special. My kids are already politicking for
> them. No prob. I have enough to go around. Also have a black walnut
> inlaid, red maple board that I use as a service tray. Too pretty to
> score with blade marks.
>
> I use kitchen oils on all of them. My woodworker neighbor shakes his
> head when I tell him what I do, but he never refuses a meal. <g>


I am a woodworker as well and I am shaking my head at you using organic over
mineral oil too. Organic *can* go rancid (I didn't say it would) but mineral
will never go rancid.

To each his own..............
>
> Pastorio
>

--
================================================== ========================
"If George W. Bush announced that a cure for cancer had been discovered,
Democrats would complain about unemployed laboratory rats," Ann Coulter.
================================================== ========================

The Wolf wrote:

> I am a woodworker as well and I am shaking my head at you using organic over
> mineral oil too. Organic *can* go rancid (I didn't say it would) but mineral
> will never go rancid.
>
> To each his own...

Exactly. Again, my experience both at home and in running restaurants
for the past 3 decades has shown me that wooden boards oiled with
cooking oils (except olive) don't get rancid. I wash them and reoil a
few times a year. Sterilize often with peroxide and white vinegar.

Based on that long experience and staring at a couple wooden boards my
grandfather made a century ago that were originally oiled with olive
oil, I understand that mineral oil won't become rancid, but apparently
the other ones won't on boards that are used and cleaned often. I
figure a century is long enough to wait to see if it'll get rancid.

To each his own, as you say...

Pastorio

Bob Pastorio > wrote:
>Without knowing how badly it's scarred, I can suggest sanding it to
>smooth it out and then oiling generously with any sort of kitchen oil
>(I don't like the smell that develops with olive oil, but I know
>people who use it). Let the oil soak into the wood for an hour or two
>and wipe clean. Do that about once a month with normal use.

I have a mahogany board (soft, yes, but beautiful, and my
knives love not fighting hardwood) that I "made" by having
a droid at Home Depot slice me 18 inches off a 1x12 in the
fancy wood section. That was more than a dozen years ago.

I oil the top (the bottom is dry and I don't use that side
for cutting; it sits on a sheet of that nubbly rubbery
shelf liner stuff so it never slips) once or twice a year
with a little mineral oil, and after that I bake the board
in a 150-200F oven for 20 minutes.

I'm not sure whether the baking actually does anything
useful, but I imagine it opens the pores in the wood and
lets the oil soak in deeply to seal the surface better
than it would otherwise.

>The board can be washed with soapy water, rinsed and air dried. When
>it looks like it needs it, reoil.

I don't use my wooden board for cutting sloppy or
dangerous stuff. I keep several sizes of plastic boards
(the softer kind are better, IMO) for that, and wash them
thoroughly every time they're used.

--Blair
"Maybe that's why it's lasted so long."

On 01/04/2004 1:34 AM, in article ,
"Blair P. Houghton" > opined:

> Bob Pastorio > wrote:
>> Without knowing how badly it's scarred, I can suggest sanding it to
>> smooth it out and then oiling generously with any sort of kitchen oil
>> (I don't like the smell that develops with olive oil, but I know
>> people who use it). Let the oil soak into the wood for an hour or two
>> and wipe clean. Do that about once a month with normal use.
>
> I have a mahogany board (soft, yes, but beautiful, and my
> knives love not fighting hardwood) that I "made" by having
> a droid at Home Depot

You bought mahogany at Home Depot? You just proved you are more stupid than
even I thought!



slice me 18 inches off a 1x12 in the
> fancy wood section. That was more than a dozen years ago.
>
> I oil the top (the bottom is dry and I don't use that side
> for cutting; it sits on a sheet of that nubbly rubbery
> shelf liner stuff so it never slips) once or twice a year
> with a little mineral oil, and after that I bake the board
> in a 150-200F oven for 20 minutes.
>
> I'm not sure whether the baking actually does anything
> useful, but I imagine it opens the pores in the wood and
> lets the oil soak in deeply to seal the surface better
> than it would otherwise.
>
>> The board can be washed with soapy water, rinsed and air dried. When
>> it looks like it needs it, reoil.
>
> I don't use my wooden board for cutting sloppy or
> dangerous stuff. I keep several sizes of plastic boards
> (the softer kind are better, IMO) for that, and wash them
> thoroughly every time they're used.
>
> --Blair
> "Maybe that's why it's lasted so long."

--
================================================== =====================
The principal difference between genius and stupidity is that there are
limits to genius!
================================================== =====================

The Wolf wrote:

> You wrote:

>>I have a mahogany board (soft, yes, but beautiful, and my
>>knives love not fighting hardwood) that I "made" by having
>>a droid at Home Depot
>
> You bought mahogany at Home Depot? You just proved you are more stupid than
> even I thought!

I don't understand. What's the difference where you buy a small piece
of mahogany? Or any other kind of wood. Obviously, I don't buy a lot
of wood.

Pastorio

In article >,
Bob Pastorio > wrote:

> The Wolf wrote:
>
> > You wrote:
>
> >>I have a mahogany board (soft, yes, but beautiful, and my
> >>knives love not fighting hardwood) that I "made" by having
> >>a droid at Home Depot
> >
> > You bought mahogany at Home Depot? You just proved you are more stupid than
> > even I thought!
>
> I don't understand. What's the difference where you buy a small piece
> of mahogany? Or any other kind of wood. Obviously, I don't buy a lot
> of wood.
>
> Pastorio
>

I'm betting he shops at places like Furrows. <G>
This is similar to his challenge to me about 600 grit sandpaper.
I can get it at different places, (Furrows, Dyers lapidary supply etc.)
but it's less expensive to get it at Hobby Lobby. :-)

Regular Lumber stores are carrying more specialty woods now and they are
not inexpensive, but more reasoanble then getting them at specialty
shops. I'm wondering if he knows that?

He also might be questioning the grade of wood. Supposedly, someplace
like Lowe's or Home Depot might not carry furniture grade. <shrugs> Does
one really need furniture grade for a cutting board? ;-)

K.

--
>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby >,,<
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

"Raelene" > wrote in message
u...
> Hello gorgeous people
>
> Whilst trying to be a computer Whizz.......... I deleted all the
responses
> I received as to how ppl would 'season' their chopping boards. Now, I
> can't get them back.
>
> Can you tell me again. Sowwy.
>
> I don't know what type of wood mine is made of. I wiped it a
little
> with some oil of some sort..... chopped/carved a bit &, whilst I expected
to
> get 'marks' in the board I didn't think pieces of it would start to give
> way.
>
> Raelene
> xxx
>
>
Lubricate it with mineral oil and use it. That's it.

Fred
The Good Gourmet
http://www.thegoodgourmet.com