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Default Proletariat hamburger reverse snobbery

Review of a "burger" place in Bloomingdale's - written by a "man" with
a hyphenated last name...this ain't no hamburger


http://www.nytimes.com/2009/04/15/di...r=1&ref=dining

Flip, 1000 Third Avenue (59th Street), (212) 705-2993, which is vying
to be New York’s most comprehensive hamburger restaurant. It’s already
the most improbably located: go to the lower level, one below street
level, of Bloomingdale’s, then turn left at Helmut Lang.

This is a serious-minded place, where the plates are rectilinear and
the manager is in a suit. You start by choosing between a short rib
mix ($12), brisket ($12) or fatty Wagyu ($15).

Then you select one of 6 different kinds of buns, 12 sauces, 8 cheeses
and 4 toppings. Even the sides gang up on you. There are three
different shapes of fries ($5), skinny, steak and crinkle-cut. And
sweet potato fries ($5). And onion rings ($5).

It took me a few burgers to arrive at a superior combination: short
rib on a plain brioche with caramelized onions and garlic aioli. That
combo, rich and beefy, gave me new respect for the department store.

 
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