I've been reading up on these, and think I might like to try one out.
I'm thinking of one of the following, in increasing price (Amazon):

Athena 6000 Max Burton ($83)
Sunpentown 1891b ($179)
CookTek MC1800G ($1,029)

Does anybody have one of these or something like it? Any
recommendations?

Thanks!

--
EZ Larry from St. Louis

"EZ Larry" > wrote in message
...
> I've been reading up on these, and think I might like to try one out.
> I'm thinking of one of the following, in increasing price (Amazon):
>
> Athena 6000 Max Burton ($83)
> Sunpentown 1891b ($179)
> CookTek MC1800G ($1,029)
>
> Does anybody have one of these or something like it? Any
> recommendations?


I don't have any recommendations, but I've been reading up on them lately as
well.

They're expensive as Hell, but it's a really kewl concept.

Buh bye, Visions cookware. <G>


TFM®

On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 16:57:03 -0400, TFM®
> wrote:

>I don't have any recommendations, but I've been reading up on them lately as
>well.
>
>They're expensive as Hell, but it's a really kewl concept.
>
>Buh bye, Visions cookware. <G>
>

After reading reviews for a few days, I finally decided on this one:

Sunpentown 1891b (on sale for $169.95 at Amazon)

It has 20 power levels, and comes with a 10" non-stick
induction-compatible skillet. I figure it's about ten times cheaper
than the least expensive 30" induction cooktop I've seen, and
completely portable besides. If I like it, I might replace the cooktop
with an induction model. If not, I'm only out less than $200, instead
of $2K.

--
EZ Larry from St. Louis

EZ Larry wrote:
> On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 16:57:03 -0400, TFM®
> > wrote:
>
>> I don't have any recommendations, but I've been reading up on them lately as
>> well.
>>
>> They're expensive as Hell, but it's a really kewl concept.
>>
>> Buh bye, Visions cookware. <G>
>>
>
> After reading reviews for a few days, I finally decided on this one:
>
> Sunpentown 1891b (on sale for $169.95 at Amazon)
>
> It has 20 power levels, and comes with a 10" non-stick
> induction-compatible skillet. I figure it's about ten times cheaper
> than the least expensive 30" induction cooktop I've seen, and
> completely portable besides. If I like it, I might replace the cooktop
> with an induction model. If not, I'm only out less than $200, instead
> of $2K.
>
Tell us how you like it. After I move, I may need to get such a
thing.

--
Jean B.

On Sun, 24 Aug 2008 14:59:14 -0500, EZ Larry
> wrote:
>After reading reviews for a few days, I finally decided on this one:
>
>Sunpentown 1891b (on sale for $169.95 at Amazon)
>
>It has 20 power levels, and comes with a 10" non-stick
>induction-compatible skillet. I figure it's about ten times cheaper
>than the least expensive 30" induction cooktop I've seen, and
>completely portable besides. If I like it, I might replace the cooktop
>with an induction model. If not, I'm only out less than $200, instead
>of $2K.

Good decision. I have a 4 burner induction cooktop, 12 power levels on
each burner and it's already very "tunable", so 20... Wow! I bet
you'll love it and I see a 2K splurge in your future <g>

Nathalie in Switzerland

On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 21:37:49 +0200, Nathalie Chiva
> wrote:

>Good decision. I have a 4 burner induction cooktop, 12 power levels on
>each burner and it's already very "tunable", so 20... Wow! I bet
>you'll love it and I see a 2K splurge in your future <g>
>
>Nathalie in Switzerland

Excellent! Many thanks for your reply. Of course, I just replaced my
old coiltop with a Frigidaire ceramic glass electric (non-induction)
cooktop, so I doubt I'll replace this new cooktop for probably ten
years or so. But, I'm glad to hear you like induction cooking. I'm
planning to use all my cast iron, and the half of my SS cookware that
magnets will stick to, with it.
--
EZ Larry from St. Louis

On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 14:45:51 -0500, EZ Larry
> wrote:

>Sunpentown 1891b ($169)

It arrived yesterday, and I've been putting it through its paces ever
since. Water comes to a boil in 2 minutes vs. 10 minutes on the
radiant cooktop. Eggs come out perfectly. The 10" non-stick pan that
comes with the unit appears to be well-made, and the non-stick
material is pretty heavy-duty. Works well.

The 20 power settings are terrific. The trade-off is that there are
only 3 temperature settings, billed as "keep-warm settings," 140, 167
and 194 degrees. Not sure how or why I would use those settings, and
I'm not sure why there are three of them! If anybody knows why I'd
want to use them, I'm all ears.

So, bottom line probably is, if you want to cook by temperature, get
the Wolfgang Puck at HSN which has all the temperature settings, and
if you want to cook by power levels, get the Sunpentown 1891b with its
20 power levels.

BTW, the fan is relatively quiet, and changes speed depending upon the
load on the cooktop.
--
EZ Larry from St. Louis

In article >, EZ Larry > wrote:
>On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 14:45:51 -0500, EZ Larry
> wrote:
>
>>Sunpentown 1891b ($169)
>
>It arrived yesterday, and I've been putting it through its paces ever
>since. Water comes to a boil in 2 minutes vs. 10 minutes on the

How much water? My microwave does 300 ml in 2 minutes.

>radiant cooktop. Eggs come out perfectly. The 10" non-stick pan that

My microwave would probably explode eggs. (Haven't tried. :-)

>comes with the unit appears to be well-made, and the non-stick
>material is pretty heavy-duty. Works well.
>
>The 20 power settings are terrific. The trade-off is that there are
>only 3 temperature settings, billed as "keep-warm settings," 140, 167
>and 194 degrees. Not sure how or why I would use those settings, and
>I'm not sure why there are three of them! If anybody knows why I'd
>want to use them, I'm all ears.

Those temperatures struck me as rather unusual, so I did a bit of
arithmetic. As I suspected, they equate to 60, 75, and 90 C
respectively. Looks like you yanks are buying cast-off metric
equipment with new labels attached for export to you. ;-)

>So, bottom line probably is, if you want to cook by temperature, get
>the Wolfgang Puck at HSN which has all the temperature settings, and
>if you want to cook by power levels, get the Sunpentown 1891b with its
>20 power levels.
>
>BTW, the fan is relatively quiet, and changes speed depending upon the
>load on the cooktop.

What does the fan do in an induction cooker? Keep the power supply
cool?

Cheers, Phred.

--
LID

EZ Larry wrote:
> On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 14:45:51 -0500, EZ Larry
> > wrote:
>
>> Sunpentown 1891b ($169)
>
> It arrived yesterday, and I've been putting it through its paces ever
> since. Water comes to a boil in 2 minutes vs. 10 minutes on the
> radiant cooktop. Eggs come out perfectly. The 10" non-stick pan that
> comes with the unit appears to be well-made, and the non-stick
> material is pretty heavy-duty. Works well.
>
> The 20 power settings are terrific. The trade-off is that there are
> only 3 temperature settings, billed as "keep-warm settings," 140, 167
> and 194 degrees. Not sure how or why I would use those settings, and
> I'm not sure why there are three of them! If anybody knows why I'd
> want to use them, I'm all ears.
>
> So, bottom line probably is, if you want to cook by temperature, get
> the Wolfgang Puck at HSN which has all the temperature settings, and
> if you want to cook by power levels, get the Sunpentown 1891b with its
> 20 power levels.
>
> BTW, the fan is relatively quiet, and changes speed depending upon the
> load on the cooktop.

Thanks for the review. That sounds much more powerful than my
induction burners, which take forever to boil enough water for 6-7
hard-boiled eggs.

--
Jean B.

On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 13:55:46 -0500, EZ Larry
> wrote:

>On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 14:45:51 -0500, EZ Larry
> wrote:
>
>>Sunpentown 1891b ($169)
>
>It arrived yesterday, and I've been putting it through its paces ever
>since.

Until it died right when I was preparing the big meal for all our
guests for Labor Day yesterday. It just plain wouldn't turn on. Now,
granted, I had let a little bit of pasta water boil over on it while I
was doing something else, but I cleaned it up right away.

So, I've called Ace Photo Digital, which is where Amazon has these
things shipped from, and they said it was drop shipped directly from
Sunpentown, and they're not open yet. By this afternoon, I should have
an idea as to what it will take to return it. At this point, I'm
thinking that if this unit is so fragile that it can't take a few
drops of water spill, I am going to try the Wolfgang Puck. The Puck is
more powerful and about half the money, if you get an online coupon.

--
EZ Larry from St. Louis
--
EZ Larry from St. Louis

"EZ Larry" > wrote in message
news
> On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 13:55:46 -0500, EZ Larry
> > wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 14:45:51 -0500, EZ Larry
> wrote:
>>
>>>Sunpentown 1891b ($169)
>>
>>It arrived yesterday, and I've been putting it through its paces ever
>>since.
>
> Until it died right when I was preparing the big meal for all our
> guests for Labor Day yesterday. It just plain wouldn't turn on. Now,
> granted, I had let a little bit of pasta water boil over on it while I
> was doing something else, but I cleaned it up right away.
>
> So, I've called Ace Photo Digital, which is where Amazon has these
> things shipped from, and they said it was drop shipped directly from
> Sunpentown, and they're not open yet. By this afternoon, I should have
> an idea as to what it will take to return it. At this point, I'm
> thinking that if this unit is so fragile that it can't take a few
> drops of water spill, I am going to try the Wolfgang Puck. The Puck is
> more powerful and about half the money, if you get an online coupon.


That just plain sucks. The manufacturer should most definitely anticipate
liquid spills with such an item.

Is there a circuit breaker / reset button hidden on it anywhere?


TFM®

On Tue, 2 Sep 2008 13:41:30 -0400, TFM® >
wrote:

>Is there a circuit breaker / reset button hidden on it anywhere?

If there is, it is not obvious. I turned the unit upside down and
sideways, and nothing anywhere.

Called Ace Photo Digital, the outfit who sells it for Amazon, and I
got a call from another person at Sunpentown. They're going to send me
another unit right away, and when I get it, I send the defective one
back.

I really like how it cooks, so, since it won't cost me anything, not
even shipping, I'm going to give this second unit a try. If that one
bites the dust, I'll argue with Sunpentown to get my money back. Fool
me once, etc....
--
EZ Larry from St. Louis

On Tue, 02 Sep 2008 09:56:31 -0500, EZ Larry
> wrote:

>On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 13:55:46 -0500, EZ Larry
> wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 14:45:51 -0500, EZ Larry
> wrote:
>>
>>>Sunpentown 1891b ($169)
>>
>>It arrived yesterday, and I've been putting it through its paces ever
>>since.
>
>Until it died right when I was preparing the big meal for all our
>guests for Labor Day yesterday. It just plain wouldn't turn on. Now,
>granted, I had let a little bit of pasta water boil over on it while I
>was doing something else, but I cleaned it up right away.
>
>So, I've called Ace Photo Digital, which is where Amazon has these
>things shipped from, and they said it was drop shipped directly from
>Sunpentown, and they're not open yet. By this afternoon, I should have
>an idea as to what it will take to return it. At this point, I'm
>thinking that if this unit is so fragile that it can't take a few
>drops of water spill, I am going to try the Wolfgang Puck. The Puck is
>more powerful and about half the money, if you get an online coupon.

Argh. I don't even count the spills on my Siemens induction cooktop
(10 years worth of spills!!!), I never had that happen. Weird. Bad
construction.

Nathalie in Switzerland

EZ Larry > wrote in
:

> On Tue, 2 Sep 2008 13:41:30 -0400, TFM® >
> wrote:
>
>>Is there a circuit breaker / reset button hidden on it anywhere?
>
> If there is, it is not obvious. I turned the unit upside down and
> sideways, and nothing anywhere.
>
> Called Ace Photo Digital, the outfit who sells it for Amazon, and I
> got a call from another person at Sunpentown. They're going to send me
> another unit right away, and when I get it, I send the defective one
> back.
>
> I really like how it cooks, so, since it won't cost me anything, not
> even shipping, I'm going to give this second unit a try. If that one
> bites the dust, I'll argue with Sunpentown to get my money back. Fool
> me once, etc....

Yes they do cook nice...Is it properly ventilated? The cooling fan is
required to cool something...has it the space around it to cool well?

--

The beet goes on -Alan

EZ Larry wrote:
> On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 13:55:46 -0500, EZ Larry
> > wrote:
>
>> On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 14:45:51 -0500, EZ Larry
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> Sunpentown 1891b ($169)
>> It arrived yesterday, and I've been putting it through its paces ever
>> since.
>
> Until it died right when I was preparing the big meal for all our
> guests for Labor Day yesterday. It just plain wouldn't turn on. Now,
> granted, I had let a little bit of pasta water boil over on it while I
> was doing something else, but I cleaned it up right away.
>
> So, I've called Ace Photo Digital, which is where Amazon has these
> things shipped from, and they said it was drop shipped directly from
> Sunpentown, and they're not open yet. By this afternoon, I should have
> an idea as to what it will take to return it. At this point, I'm
> thinking that if this unit is so fragile that it can't take a few
> drops of water spill, I am going to try the Wolfgang Puck. The Puck is
> more powerful and about half the money, if you get an online coupon.
>
Oh no!!!!! But thanks for the miserable update.

--
Jean B.

On Tue, 02 Sep 2008 18:58:52 GMT, hahabogus > wrote:

>Yes they do cook nice...Is it properly ventilated? The cooling fan is
>required to cool something...has it the space around it to cool well?

It's definitely vented OK. And even if it isn't, the circuitry is
supposed to shut down the unit for 15 minutes. It's been overnight,
and it still doesn't work, so I'm thinking, nope.

Only other thing I can think of is, I used my enameled cast iron dutch
oven on it. But, it worked after that, too, so I'm thinking that can't
be it.
--
EZ Larry from St. Louis

On Tue, 02 Sep 2008 09:56:31 -0500, EZ Larry
> wrote:

>>>Sunpentown 1891b ($169)

The first unit lasted 3 days, then just plain quit. The replacement
unit arrived a week after I reported the problem with the first one.
When I plugged that one in, there was a bright flash, a loud pop, a
puff of smoke, and the smell of electrical burn. I immediately
unplugged it, boxed it up, called and returned it. Both units are in
transit back to Sunpentown as I write this, and I have ordered the
Wolfgang Puck from HSN. With the coupon I got off the web, the total
price including shipping is about half what the Sunpentown was.

To their credit, both Ace Photo Digital and Sunpentown were very
cordial, and have promised me a full refund. I just don't have
confidence in their quality control.

I'll let you know if I find anything outstandingly positive or
negative about the Puck, but based upon what others have written here,
I'm betting it'll be a solid performer.

--
EZ Larry from St. Louis

EZ Larry wrote:
> On Tue, 02 Sep 2008 09:56:31 -0500, EZ Larry
> > wrote:
>
>>>> Sunpentown 1891b ($169)
>
> The first unit lasted 3 days, then just plain quit. The replacement
> unit arrived a week after I reported the problem with the first one.
> When I plugged that one in, there was a bright flash, a loud pop, a
> puff of smoke, and the smell of electrical burn. I immediately
> unplugged it, boxed it up, called and returned it. Both units are in
> transit back to Sunpentown as I write this, and I have ordered the
> Wolfgang Puck from HSN. With the coupon I got off the web, the total
> price including shipping is about half what the Sunpentown was.
>
> To their credit, both Ace Photo Digital and Sunpentown were very
> cordial, and have promised me a full refund. I just don't have
> confidence in their quality control.
>
> I'll let you know if I find anything outstandingly positive or
> negative about the Puck, but based upon what others have written here,
> I'm betting it'll be a solid performer.
>
I was wondering about this last night. That certainly isn't
auspicious. I will forget the fact that I saw a shop in Boston's
Chinatown that sells Sunpentown induction units.

Thanks for keeping us informed. I may well be in the market for
such a thing after I move.

--
Jean B.

On Wed, 10 Sep 2008 10:53:44 -0500, EZ Larry
> wrote:

> I have ordered the
>Wolfgang Puck from HSN. With the coupon I got off the web, the total
>price including shipping is about half what the Sunpentown was.

I couldn't decide between it and the more powerful, and less
expensive, Max Burton Athena 6000. My wife often orders two or three
different kinds of the same thing, and returns the ones she doesn't
want, so I figured what the heck, I'll order them both and send back
the one I like the less.

I'll let you know what I find.
--
EZ Larry from St. Louis

EZ Larry wrote:
> On Wed, 10 Sep 2008 10:53:44 -0500, EZ Larry
> > wrote:
>
>> I have ordered the
>> Wolfgang Puck from HSN. With the coupon I got off the web, the total
>> price including shipping is about half what the Sunpentown was.
>
> I couldn't decide between it and the more powerful, and less
> expensive, Max Burton Athena 6000. My wife often orders two or three
> different kinds of the same thing, and returns the ones she doesn't
> want, so I figured what the heck, I'll order them both and send back
> the one I like the less.
>
> I'll let you know what I find.

Still listening. Thanks. I guess these are less expensive than
the Cooktek ones....

--
Jean B.

On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 20:26:17 -0400, "Jean B." > wrote:

>Still listening. Thanks. I guess these are less expensive than
>the Cooktek ones....

Oh, yeah. Much, much less expensive. Check out this website. It has
just about everything you want to know about induction cooking and
equipment.

http://theinductionsite.com/

And, no, I don't work for anybody in the industry, and it's not my
website! It showed up on a Google search, and they said the Max Burton
is the most bang for the buck. Yet, Amazon reviewer said she started
with the Max Burton and switched to the Sunpentown that crapped out on
me. And, a few folks here have said the Puck was a great machine.

So, having tried two Sunpentowns and returned them both, I'm going to
try the Burton and the Puck, and keep the one that works the best.
Heck, I might keep them both - I have a finished basement with no
cooker in it, after all.

--
EZ Larry from St. Louis

EZ Larry wrote:
> On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 20:26:17 -0400, "Jean B." > wrote:
>
>> Still listening. Thanks. I guess these are less expensive than
>> the Cooktek ones....
>
> Oh, yeah. Much, much less expensive. Check out this website. It has
> just about everything you want to know about induction cooking and
> equipment.
>
> http://theinductionsite.com/
>
> And, no, I don't work for anybody in the industry, and it's not my
> website! It showed up on a Google search, and they said the Max Burton
> is the most bang for the buck. Yet, Amazon reviewer said she started
> with the Max Burton and switched to the Sunpentown that crapped out on
> me. And, a few folks here have said the Puck was a great machine.
>
> So, having tried two Sunpentowns and returned them both, I'm going to
> try the Burton and the Puck, and keep the one that works the best.
> Heck, I might keep them both - I have a finished basement with no
> cooker in it, after all.
>
I have two induction burners on my Jennaire cooktop, so I am
familiar with them and cooking on them. That being said, this
rather feeble unit predated the availability of better units in
this country. I especially like being able to use induction
burners in the summer. One incentive would be gone in the cooler
months though.

Anyhow, I will be moving in less than a year, so I am thinking
ahead. Thanks for continuing to update this thread.

--
Jean B.

On Sat, 13 Sep 2008 20:00:00 -0400, "Jean B." > wrote:

>Anyhow, I will be moving in less than a year, so I am thinking
>ahead. Thanks for continuing to update this thread.

One of the reviewers on one of the Amazon units said when she
remodeled her kitchen she bought two of these countertop units instead
of a cooktop. That sounds a bit extreme to me, but if these countertop
units turn out to be decent, I might think of turning 100% to
induction in a few years. I'd have to replace about 1/3 of my
cookware, though.

The most exciting thing according to the website I posted earlier is
the "zoneless" induction units that have been being tested for the
last couple of years. I think the ability to put a pan of any shape or
size on any part of the glass is just outstanding! And, the newer
units that will work with ANY kind of metal, including aluminum and
copper. The power requirements might be prohibitive, though.

It's an exciting technology. And it has the capacity to blow gas and
radiant electric cooking out of the water!
--
EZ Larry from St. Louis

On Sat 13 Sep 2008 08:32:08p, EZ Larry told us...

> On Sat, 13 Sep 2008 20:00:00 -0400, "Jean B." > wrote:
>
>>Anyhow, I will be moving in less than a year, so I am thinking
>>ahead. Thanks for continuing to update this thread.
>
> One of the reviewers on one of the Amazon units said when she
> remodeled her kitchen she bought two of these countertop units instead
> of a cooktop. That sounds a bit extreme to me, but if these countertop
> units turn out to be decent, I might think of turning 100% to
> induction in a few years. I'd have to replace about 1/3 of my
> cookware, though.
>
> The most exciting thing according to the website I posted earlier is
> the "zoneless" induction units that have been being tested for the
> last couple of years. I think the ability to put a pan of any shape or
> size on any part of the glass is just outstanding! And, the newer
> units that will work with ANY kind of metal, including aluminum and
> copper. The power requirements might be prohibitive, though.
>
> It's an exciting technology. And it has the capacity to blow gas and
> radiant electric cooking out of the water!

It may require commercial power levels of single phase 440 VAC. It might
also blow up your house. :-)

--
Wayne Boatwright

*******************************************
Date: Saturday, 09(IX)/13(XIII)/08(MMVIII)
*******************************************
Countdown till Veteran's Day
8wks 2dys 3hrs 18mins
*******************************************
Sorrow looks back, worry looks around,
faith looks up.
*******************************************

In article >,
EZ Larry > wrote:

> On Sat, 13 Sep 2008 20:00:00 -0400, "Jean B." > wrote:


-snip--

> It's an exciting technology. And it has the capacity to blow gas and
> radiant electric cooking out of the water!

Calculate the electrical draw of an induction (or radiant) unit that can
provide 20,000 BTU (which a fairly standard restaurant-grade gas burner
or an upscale domestic cooktop will deliver with ease).

To save you the trouble, it's about 6 Kilowatt-Hours, assuming the
induction unit is nearly 100% efficient at converting electrical power
into useful heat. That's nearly 30 amps at 220 volts continuously for an
hour, or over 50 amps at 117 volts. I don't think any induction unit you
can buy (for kitchen service) gets anywhere close.

And that's why few, if any, restaurant kitchens use anything but gas.

Isaac

EZ Larry wrote:
> On Sat, 13 Sep 2008 20:00:00 -0400, "Jean B." > wrote:
>
>> Anyhow, I will be moving in less than a year, so I am thinking
>> ahead. Thanks for continuing to update this thread.
>
> One of the reviewers on one of the Amazon units said when she
> remodeled her kitchen she bought two of these countertop units instead
> of a cooktop. That sounds a bit extreme to me, but if these countertop
> units turn out to be decent, I might think of turning 100% to
> induction in a few years. I'd have to replace about 1/3 of my
> cookware, though.
>
> The most exciting thing according to the website I posted earlier is
> the "zoneless" induction units that have been being tested for the
> last couple of years. I think the ability to put a pan of any shape or
> size on any part of the glass is just outstanding! And, the newer
> units that will work with ANY kind of metal, including aluminum and
> copper. The power requirements might be prohibitive, though.
>
> It's an exciting technology. And it has the capacity to blow gas and
> radiant electric cooking out of the water!

Oh, so that technology that allows use of other pans has gotten to
this country? I have looked for that for a few years after
reading it was available in Japan.

I must say, I like cooking on these burners. I haven't looked
into the energy requirements though, and should.

--
Jean B.

Wayne Boatwright wrote:
> On Sat 13 Sep 2008 08:32:08p, EZ Larry told us...
>
>> On Sat, 13 Sep 2008 20:00:00 -0400, "Jean B." > wrote:
>>
>>> Anyhow, I will be moving in less than a year, so I am thinking
>>> ahead. Thanks for continuing to update this thread.
>> One of the reviewers on one of the Amazon units said when she
>> remodeled her kitchen she bought two of these countertop units instead
>> of a cooktop. That sounds a bit extreme to me, but if these countertop
>> units turn out to be decent, I might think of turning 100% to
>> induction in a few years. I'd have to replace about 1/3 of my
>> cookware, though.
>>
>> The most exciting thing according to the website I posted earlier is
>> the "zoneless" induction units that have been being tested for the
>> last couple of years. I think the ability to put a pan of any shape or
>> size on any part of the glass is just outstanding! And, the newer
>> units that will work with ANY kind of metal, including aluminum and
>> copper. The power requirements might be prohibitive, though.
>>
>> It's an exciting technology. And it has the capacity to blow gas and
>> radiant electric cooking out of the water!
>
> It may require commercial power levels of single phase 440 VAC. It might
> also blow up your house. :-)
>
Hmmm. You may have noticed that I am trying to find an antique
house, so I'd better keep power requirements in mind.... It would
be quite something to have beehive ovens, some intervening
oven/range, and induction!

--
Jean B.

On Sun 14 Sep 2008 07:18:31a, Jean B. told us...

> Hmmm. You may have noticed that I am trying to find an antique
> house, so I'd better keep power requirements in mind.... It would
> be quite something to have beehive ovens, some intervening
> oven/range, and induction!

If I were going to buy an antique house, I would want to know that the
wiring and plumbing, and any other major systems had been updated to
current code and standards -OR- be prepared to have that done after
purchase and before I moved in. Electrical systems are especially
important, as old ones can often be dangerous due to inadequate capacity or
degraded insulation.

I would certainly love the charm and authenticity of the antique structure,
but would also want the safety and capability of modern technology.

I have a friend in Ohio who bought a 1902 "cottage in the woods". It had
been electrified and indoor plubing installed sometime in the 1930s. He
had it re-wired and re-plumbed when he bought it in the 1990s. It still
"looks" 1902, but functions like a modern house.

--
Wayne Boatwright

*******************************************
Date: Sunday, 09(IX)/14(XIV)/08(MMVIII)
*******************************************
Countdown till Veteran's Day
8wks 1dys 15hrs 40mins
*******************************************
Useless Invention: Candy bars with
stannous fluoride added.
*******************************************

Wayne Boatwright wrote:
> If I were going to buy an antique house, I would want to know that the
> wiring and plumbing, and any other major systems had been updated to
> current code and standards -OR- be prepared to have that done after
> purchase and before I moved in. Electrical systems are especially
> important, as old ones can often be dangerous due to inadequate capacity or
> degraded insulation.

That is one reason why I am hoping to buy many months early.
Thanks for the last sentence, in particular.
>
> I would certainly love the charm and authenticity of the antique structure,
> but would also want the safety and capability of modern technology.
>
> I have a friend in Ohio who bought a 1902 "cottage in the woods". It had
> been electrified and indoor plubing installed sometime in the 1930s. He
> had it re-wired and re-plumbed when he bought it in the 1990s. It still
> "looks" 1902, but functions like a modern house.

That's the ideal, isn't it? I want the character, but...

--
Jean B.

On Sun 14 Sep 2008 09:37:38a, Jean B. told us...

> Wayne Boatwright wrote:
>> If I were going to buy an antique house, I would want to know that the
>> wiring and plumbing, and any other major systems had been updated to
>> current code and standards -OR- be prepared to have that done after
>> purchase and before I moved in. Electrical systems are especially
>> important, as old ones can often be dangerous due to inadequate
>> capacity or degraded insulation.
>
> That is one reason why I am hoping to buy many months early.
> Thanks for the last sentence, in particular.

You're welcome. It's critical.

>> I would certainly love the charm and authenticity of the antique
>> structure, but would also want the safety and capability of modern
>> technology.
>>
>> I have a friend in Ohio who bought a 1902 "cottage in the woods". It
>> had been electrified and indoor plubing installed sometime in the
>> 1930s. He had it re-wired and re-plumbed when he bought it in the
>> 1990s. It still "looks" 1902, but functions like a modern house.
>
> That's the ideal, isn't it? I want the character, but...
>

Absolutely.

--
Wayne Boatwright

*******************************************
Date: Sunday, 09(IX)/14(XIV)/08(MMVIII)
*******************************************
Countdown till Veteran's Day
8wks 1dys 11hrs 36mins
*******************************************
'That must be wonderful; I have no
idea of what it means.'--Moliere
*******************************************

On Sat, 13 Sep 2008 21:01:44 -0700, isw > wrote:

>Calculate the electrical draw of an induction (or radiant) unit that can
>provide 20,000 BTU (which a fairly standard restaurant-grade gas burner
>or an upscale domestic cooktop will deliver with ease).

>To save you the trouble, it's about 6 Kilowatt-Hours

You might want to check your facts. Here is one website that goes into
a fair amount of detail:

http://theinductionsite.com/how-induction-works.shtml

Here are a few quotes. The actual article has links:

The U.S. Department of Energy has established that the typical
efficiency of induction cooktops is 84%, while that of gas cooktops is
40% (more exactly, 39.9%)--

Gas:
the average home gas-cooker burner is about 10K BTU/hour;
serious home gas-cooker burners are about 12K BTU/hour; and,
deluxe home gas-cooker burners are about 15K BTU/hour.

Induction equivalent:
"average" home cooking power, an induction cooker element would have
to be about 1400 watts (1.4 kW);
"serious" home cooking power, an induction cooker element would have
to be about 1700 watts (1.7 kW); and,
"deluxe" home cooking power, an induction cooker element would have to
be about 2000 watts (2 kW).

In other words, about 1/3 as much power as the 6 kW you mention above.

--
EZ Larry from St. Louis

On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 14:45:51 -0500, EZ Larry
> wrote:

The Wolfgang Puck from HSN arrived a few days ago, and I've been using
it ever since. I've been using it mostly to get a few quarts of water
quickly to a boil, as most of my dinner entrees consist of something
I've Food Saver'ed and frozen, and just need to put the bag into
boiling water. The fan seems to be a tad noisier than the Sunpentown

>Sunpentown 1891b ($179)

which I returned because it was defective, twice. And, there are only
6 power levels and 6 temperature levels.

Still waiting on delivery on this one:

>Athena 6000 Max Burton ($83)

but the Amazon review says it has 10 power levels. It might have 9
temperature levels as well, since it goes from 150 to 390 degrees F,
and I thought I read somewhere that it is in 30-degree increments, vs.
50-degree increments for the Puck.

My hope is that the Athena, at 1600 Watts, is going to be the best of
the lot. It's also the least expensive, making it the most bang for
the buck. At any rate, the Puck is a solid performer. The lowest power
level setting is 400 Watts, which pretty much keeps water at a slow
boil - just a tad above a simmer. The 200 degree setting seems to be
about the same as the 400 Watt setting, keeping water at a slow boil,
leading me to wonder if it's really measuring the temperature, or just
cycling the power on and off again.

No matter. The Puck is still a solid performer, bringing water to boil
quicker than the small element on my new ceramic cooktop. The Puck
can't match the big 2500 Watt powerboil element on the ceramic
cooktop, but then, at 1400 Watts, I don't see how it could. And, I
can't use a small pan on the big powerboil element like I can on the
Puck, with its auto-pan size detection. But if I were doing fancier
cooking, with a fry pan, I'd want more power levels. It does come with
an "inductamat" to be used to compensate for the fact that it doesn't
really have low power levels, but if the Athena has the lower power
levels with its 10 settings, then it will be the better choice.
--
EZ Larry from St. Louis

EZ Larry wrote:
> On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 14:45:51 -0500, EZ Larry
> > wrote:
>
> The Wolfgang Puck from HSN arrived a few days ago, and I've been using
> it ever since. I've been using it mostly to get a few quarts of water
> quickly to a boil, as most of my dinner entrees consist of something
> I've Food Saver'ed and frozen, and just need to put the bag into
> boiling water. The fan seems to be a tad noisier than the Sunpentown
>
>> Sunpentown 1891b ($179)
>
> which I returned because it was defective, twice. And, there are only
> 6 power levels and 6 temperature levels.
>
> Still waiting on delivery on this one:
>
>> Athena 6000 Max Burton ($83)
>
> but the Amazon review says it has 10 power levels. It might have 9
> temperature levels as well, since it goes from 150 to 390 degrees F,
> and I thought I read somewhere that it is in 30-degree increments, vs.
> 50-degree increments for the Puck.
>
> My hope is that the Athena, at 1600 Watts, is going to be the best of
> the lot. It's also the least expensive, making it the most bang for
> the buck. At any rate, the Puck is a solid performer. The lowest power
> level setting is 400 Watts, which pretty much keeps water at a slow
> boil - just a tad above a simmer. The 200 degree setting seems to be
> about the same as the 400 Watt setting, keeping water at a slow boil,
> leading me to wonder if it's really measuring the temperature, or just
> cycling the power on and off again.
>
> No matter. The Puck is still a solid performer, bringing water to boil
> quicker than the small element on my new ceramic cooktop. The Puck
> can't match the big 2500 Watt powerboil element on the ceramic
> cooktop, but then, at 1400 Watts, I don't see how it could. And, I
> can't use a small pan on the big powerboil element like I can on the
> Puck, with its auto-pan size detection. But if I were doing fancier
> cooking, with a fry pan, I'd want more power levels. It does come with
> an "inductamat" to be used to compensate for the fact that it doesn't
> really have low power levels, but if the Athena has the lower power
> levels with its 10 settings, then it will be the better choice.

Thanks for continuing to write about this ongoing adventure. No
low power level? That's kind-of odd....

--
Jean B.

On Thu, 18 Sep 2008 12:39:13 -0500, EZ Larry
> wrote:

>Still waiting on delivery on this one:
>
>>Athena 6000 Max Burton ($83)
>
>but the Amazon review says it has 10 power levels. It might have 9
>temperature levels as well, since it goes from 150 to 390 degrees F,
>and I thought I read somewhere that it is in 30-degree increments, vs.
>50-degree increments for the Puck.

That is precisely what it is, and does. It seems to be a better unit
than the Puck. 10 power levels, 9 temperature settings. And, it boils
water faster than the Puck. 1600 Watts vs. 1400 for the Puck.

But, I'm keeping them both. I have the Athena, which is just a tad
smaller than the Puck, on a side table where I'll use it every day.
The Puck is on a shelf where I can grab it and plug it in on my
counter if I want both running at the same time. The Puck's lowest
setting is less watts than the Burton, but it seems to boil at that
lowest setting anyway. The Puck comes with this device:

http://www.simmermat.com/

which sells from Amazon for $20, plus $10 shipping. Since the whole
Puck cooker was $95 total, including shipping, I figure I got the Puck
for $65 and I have a $30 simmermat that I can use on any range -
induction, gas, electric coil, or my new ceramic electric cooktop.

If the Sunpentown wasn't so flaky, it would be a good choice solely
because the fan is a variable speed fan, so when you're simmering,
it's pretty quiet, but when you crank up the heat, the fan picks up
speed (and noise) to cool off the coils. The Puck fan is quite loud,
but not louder than my exhaust fan. Louder than my microwave, though.
The Burton fan is quieter, which makes it the all-around winner in my
book.

I'm keeping both, because one reviewer said the Burton quit on him
after 10 months of nearly-daily use, and I figure the Puck might be a
tad more durable, but I have no proof of that. Plus, I get the
inductamat with the Puck, which is a pretty expensive device I get for
free.

Anyway, that's my story. Hope it helps.



>
>My hope is that the Athena, at 1600 Watts, is going to be the best of
>the lot. It's also the least expensive, making it the most bang for
>the buck. At any rate, the Puck is a solid performer. The lowest power
>level setting is 400 Watts, which pretty much keeps water at a slow
>boil - just a tad above a simmer. The 200 degree setting seems to be
>about the same as the 400 Watt setting, keeping water at a slow boil,
>leading me to wonder if it's really measuring the temperature, or just
>cycling the power on and off again.
>
>No matter. The Puck is still a solid performer, bringing water to boil
>quicker than the small element on my new ceramic cooktop. The Puck
>can't match the big 2500 Watt powerboil element on the ceramic
>cooktop, but then, at 1400 Watts, I don't see how it could. And, I
>can't use a small pan on the big powerboil element like I can on the
>Puck, with its auto-pan size detection. But if I were doing fancier
>cooking, with a fry pan, I'd want more power levels. It does come with
>an "inductamat" to be used to compensate for the fact that it doesn't
>really have low power levels, but if the Athena has the lower power
>levels with its 10 settings, then it will be the better choice.
--
EZ Larry from St. Louis