I think I know the answer but I thought I would double-check with this
group.

We have a fireplace in our new house and so we got a bunch of firewood.
I also like to use my WSM to smoke ribs, etc.

Just for fun, I'm thinking of using the firewood for smoke and I'm
wondering the best way to break it into smaller pieces.

I read someone's post who advocated an electric chain saw. This would
be convienient for me since I use other electric power tools and have a
long extension cord.

Also, I've been looking at camp axes and larger axes.

I don't have a stump to put the wood on so I can whack it safely.

I guess I could lay the log I'm cutting on top of some other logs?

Anyway, let me know what you think.

- Bobby

p.s. I saw a hand saw that was also advocated on the newsgroup. I
guess it would serve the same purpose as a chain saw?

> I read someone's post who advocated an electric chain saw. This would
> be convienient for me since I use other electric power tools and have a
> long extension cord.

For cutting long pieces into small pieces, this is your tool. I cut into 3-4
inch lengths.

>
> Also, I've been looking at camp axes and larger axes.
>
> I don't have a stump to put the wood on so I can whack it safely.

Get a maul. It splits much better than an axe. Small camp axes are a waste
of money IMO, unless you get one of those really old ones that weighs 16
ounces or something. Those can split your smaller pieces.

-John O

On 25 Aug 2005 13:26:23 -0700, wrote:

>Just for fun, I'm thinking of using the firewood for smoke

Only if it's hardwood or fruitwood. Avoid conifers (pine, fir, etc.),
as they give off nasty smoke.

>and I'm
>wondering the best way to break it into smaller pieces.

Four words: power miter-box saw.

Kevin S. Wilson wrote:
> On 25 Aug 2005 13:26:23 -0700, wrote:
>
>
>>Just for fun, I'm thinking of using the firewood for smoke
>
>
> Only if it's hardwood or fruitwood. Avoid conifers (pine, fir, etc.),
> as they give off nasty smoke.
>
>
>>and I'm
>>wondering the best way to break it into smaller pieces.
>
>
> Four words: power miter-box saw.
>

Six more words:

Make sure the wood can't move!

If the wood can move during the cut it can bind the blade which can do
damage to the saw, the wood and perhaps most importantly, you.

Matthew (don't ask me how I know this)

"John O" > wrote in message
>
> Get a maul.

And get one with a fiberglass handle. they take a beating when you miss the
log and hit the handle instead. Or so I'm told.

A guy that lives on my street used a wood handle and replaced it three times
in a year. Put on a fiberglass and has used it for 15 years now and it is
still one piece. Yep, that's what he tells me.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/

Max wrote:
> On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 19:13:15 -0400, "Matthew L. Martin"
> > wrote:
>
>
>>Kevin S. Wilson wrote:
>>
>>>On 25 Aug 2005 13:26:23 -0700, wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Just for fun, I'm thinking of using the firewood for smoke
>>>
>>>
>>>Only if it's hardwood or fruitwood. Avoid conifers (pine, fir, etc.),
>>>as they give off nasty smoke.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>and I'm
>>>>wondering the best way to break it into smaller pieces.
>>>
>>>
>>>Four words: power miter-box saw.
>>>
>>
>>Six more words:
>>
>>Make sure the wood can't move!
>>
>>If the wood can move during the cut it can bind the blade which can do
>>damage to the saw, the wood and perhaps most importantly, you.
>>
>>Matthew (don't ask me how I know this)
>
>
> I think you two should present your answers in Haiku form.
>

Power Miter saw
Make sure the wood can not move
You are in control

Matthew

Matthew L. Martin wrote:

> Power Miter saw
> Make sure the wood can not move
> You are in control

Thanks for the giggle, Matthew :-)

--
Dave
Dave's Pit-Smoked Bar-B-Que
http://davebbq.com/

"Dave Bugg" > wrote:
> Matthew L. Martin wrote:
>
> > Power Miter saw
> > Make sure the wood can not move
> > You are in control
>
> Thanks for the giggle, Matthew :-)

Matthew is funny.
Matthew is a contractor.
You want opinion?
He will sell you one!

--
Nick. Support severely wounded and disabled War on Terror Veterans and
their families:
http://saluteheroes.org/ & http://www.woundedwarriorproject.org/

Thank a Veteran and Support Our Troops. You are not forgotten. Thanks ! ! !

> > Get a maul.
>
> And get one with a fiberglass handle. they take a beating when you miss
the
> log and hit the handle instead. Or so I'm told.
>
> A guy that lives on my street used a wood handle and replaced it three
times
> in a year. Put on a fiberglass and has used it for 15 years now and it is
> still one piece. Yep, that's what he tells me.
> --

He must be innaccurate (whacking the log with the handle) or using the maul
to twist, or buying cheap tools. <g> I've have my wooden-handled maul for
7-8 years, I've used it a lot and it's fine. But, fiberglass will certainly
live forever.

-John O

On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 21:40:36 -0400, "Matthew L. Martin"
> wrote:

>Max wrote:
>>
>> I think you two should present your answers in Haiku form.
>>
>
>Power Miter saw
>Make sure the wood can not move
>You are in control
>
No reference to the season!!11!! PLONK!!!111!

Kevin S. Wilson wrote:

> On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 21:40:36 -0400, "Matthew L. Martin"
> > wrote:
>
>
>>Max wrote:
>>
>>>I think you two should present your answers in Haiku form.
>>>
>>
>>Power Miter saw
>>Make sure the wood can not move
>>Dry over winter
>>
>
> No reference to the season!!11!! PLONK!!!111!
>

> > Also, I've been looking at camp axes and larger axes.
> >
> > I don't have a stump to put the wood on so I can whack it safely.
>
> Get a maul. It splits much better than an axe. Small camp axes are a waste
> of money IMO, unless you get one of those really old ones that weighs 16
> ounces or something. Those can split your smaller pieces.
>
> -John O

Okay, as an old country boy, I gotta chime in here.

If you want to cut the wood into 3 - 4" lengths before splitting it up,
go buy yourself a good hatchet! Using a maul to split pieces that small
is about like using a pack of Pit Bulls to get your cat out of the car!
A sharp hatchet with a hammer will do a much better job without hardly
any of the effort the maul would take. (spend an hour swinging an 8lb
maul splitting wood, and you will know what effort I mean)

Also, with this method, all you need is a wide, firm surface (solid
patio wall, wooden picnic table, etc.) with a layer of wood on top (I
recommend using an old thick cutting board or 4 12" x 12" pieces of
plywood stacked and screwed together) to provide cushion and protect
from misses.

OTOH, you could use the maul to split the pieces while they are still
firewood length, and then just break them into 3 - 4" lengths with your
hand. Either way would work.

If you have any questions, email me.

Jon C

Thanks for everyone's reply.

I still have a dumb question. What is the difference between a camp
axe and a hatchet?

- Bobby

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> Thanks for everyone's reply.
>
> I still have a dumb question. What is the difference between a camp
> axe and a hatchet?
>
> - Bobby

Hatchet is a dual purpose tool. The one end is the chopping blade while the
other end will be a hammer head or other specialized tool. There are
shingling hatchets for instance.

An axe is pretty much a chopping tool

There may be exceptions to this though.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/

On 26-Aug-2005, wrote:

> Thanks for everyone's reply.
>
> I still have a dumb question. What is the difference between a camp
> axe and a hatchet?
>
> - Bobby

Your reference to a camp axe is probably what we called a "hand axe" where
I come from. (Northern Indiana). It has a ~2 ft handle, wheras a hatchet has
~ 1ft handle. The head of a hand axe/camp axe weighs maybe half to two thirds
what a full sized axe weighs. Good size for your 10 - 12 yr old to cut wood with.
--
The Brick said that (Don't bother to agree with me, I have already changed my mind.)

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

Well, the ones at Lowe's are the same length, 14 inches.

The camp axe is heavier and the head looks thicker.

Anyway, I bought the $20 hatchet. I got the impression it was sharper.
I think it was made by Fiskars or something like that. If I can't cut
up pieces of split firewood with it I'll keep it for cutting twigs or
something.

- Bobby

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> I think I know the answer but I thought I would double-check with this
> group.
>
> We have a fireplace in our new house and so we got a bunch of firewood.
> I also like to use my WSM to smoke ribs, etc.
>
> Just for fun, I'm thinking of using the firewood for smoke and I'm
> wondering the best way to break it into smaller pieces.
>
> I read someone's post who advocated an electric chain saw. This would
> be convienient for me since I use other electric power tools and have a
> long extension cord.
>
> Also, I've been looking at camp axes and larger axes.
>
> I don't have a stump to put the wood on so I can whack it safely.
>
> I guess I could lay the log I'm cutting on top of some other logs?
>
> Anyway, let me know what you think.
>
> - Bobby
>
> p.s. I saw a hand saw that was also advocated on the newsgroup. I
> guess it would serve the same purpose as a chain saw?
>

Now here's an idea for 'city dwellers.'
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...=07 124540000

>
> Your reference to a camp axe is probably what we called a "hand axe" where
> I come from. (Northern Indiana). It has a ~2 ft handle, wheras a hatchet
has
> ~ 1ft handle. The head of a hand axe/camp axe weighs maybe half to two
thirds
> what a full sized axe weighs. Good size for your 10 - 12 yr old to cut
wood with.
> --

Having spent FAR too much time with lots Boy Scouts in that age
range....they're better off with a modest-sized single-head axe. They just
want to chop, and chop, and chop...so don't expect any real work to be
accomplished. But, you might end up with a big pile of wood chips and that's
ok.

Jon C mentioned a hatchet with a hammer and while that works, I wouldn't do
it for two reasons. One, you really need some (safety) glasses on if you do
that, and two, it's not a way I'd ever let the kids see. I prefer using the
full-size axe to split my kindling. With heavy gloves, put the blade in
contact with where you want the split, and raise the wood and axe and drop
them on a hard surface (another larger log works). Once the axe is going in,
just keep dropping it and it splits right through. No swinging sharp axes,
no chance at any sort of injury, and the split will be right where I want
it.

-John O

Thanks for all the advice. I got my wood today and tried hacking away
at a small piece of wood with the hatchet just for fun. It probably
took a hundred or so hits with the hatchet to break through it. It was
maybe three inches thick. My arms are a little sore but it was no big
deal.

But, I was careful, had eye protection, and it did work.

I could see how a heavier axe would be quicker for sure.

Anyway, I'll be careful and maybe get the bigger axe on a future trip
to the hardware store.

- Bobby

On 29 Aug 2005 17:49:13 -0700, wrote:

>Thanks for all the advice. I got my wood today and tried hacking away
>at a small piece of wood with the hatchet just for fun. It probably
>took a hundred or so hits with the hatchet to break through it. It was
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>maybe three inches thick
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

You're using the wrong tool for this job, an excellent way to get
hurt.

"Kevin S. Wilson" wrote:
>
> >maybe three inches thick
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>
> You're using the wrong tool for this job, an excellent way to get
> hurt.


Excuse me Mr Wilson?

John O wrote:
> > > Get a maul.
> >
> > And get one with a fiberglass handle. they take a beating when you miss
> the
> > log and hit the handle instead. Or so I'm told.
> >
> > A guy that lives on my street used a wood handle and replaced it three
> times
> > in a year. Put on a fiberglass and has used it for 15 years now and it is
> > still one piece. Yep, that's what he tells me.
> > --
>
> He must be innaccurate (whacking the log with the handle) or using the maul
> to twist, or buying cheap tools. <g> I've have my wooden-handled maul for
> 7-8 years, I've used it a lot and it's fine. But, fiberglass will certainly
> live forever.
>
> -John O

Inaccurate? Maybe it was windy. I just came back from a week's camping
and I can tell you the weather was weird. I had no problem splitting
wood early in the day but a wind kicked up every evening that made
splitting wood downright dangerous. I finally decided to just throw
whole logs on the fire and try to rest safely in my chair. It's a good
thing I always travel with a good supply of my favourite mild
antiseptic.

Cam

cl > wrote:
> "Kevin S. Wilson" wrote:
> >
> > >maybe three inches thick
> > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> >
> > You're using the wrong tool for this job, an excellent way to get
> > hurt.
>
> Excuse me Mr Wilson?

I had forgotten all about him. Thanks for the laughs, cl!

--
Nick. Support severely wounded and disabled War on Terror Veterans and
their families:
http://saluteheroes.org/ & http://www.woundedwarriorproject.org/

Thank a Veteran and Support Our Troops. You are not forgotten. Thanks ! ! !

Max wrote:
> On 30 Aug 2005 12:15:45 -0700, "Cam" > wrote:
>
> >
> >John O wrote:
> >> > > Get a maul.
> >> >
> >> > And get one with a fiberglass handle. they take a beating when you miss
> >> the
> >> > log and hit the handle instead. Or so I'm told.
> >> >
> >> > A guy that lives on my street used a wood handle and replaced it three
> >> times
> >> > in a year. Put on a fiberglass and has used it for 15 years now and it is
> >> > still one piece. Yep, that's what he tells me.
> >> > --
> >>
> >> He must be innaccurate (whacking the log with the handle) or using the maul
> >> to twist, or buying cheap tools. <g> I've have my wooden-handled maul for
> >> 7-8 years, I've used it a lot and it's fine. But, fiberglass will certainly
> >> live forever.
> >>
> >> -John O
> >
> >Inaccurate? Maybe it was windy. I just came back from a week's camping
> >and I can tell you the weather was weird. I had no problem splitting
> >wood early in the day but a wind kicked up every evening that made
> >splitting wood downright dangerous. I finally decided to just throw
> >whole logs on the fire and try to rest safely in my chair. It's a good
> >thing I always travel with a good supply of my favourite mild
> >antiseptic.
> >
> >Cam
>
> It got dangerously windy so you threw bigger logs on the fire?
> Hmmmmm... Doesn't sound like a real swooooft move to me! Unless you
> like to burn shit up for the fun of it. I'd bet you cut dawn green
> wood in the forest for your blazes as well!
>
> Maybe you should have used those big logs to make a windbreak for a
> smaller fire.

Now that I think of it the smoke was going straight up. Maybe it wasn't
windy, could'a been gravity pulses or something. Who knows?

Cam

Just to give you an update. Ok, so I'm a wood-cutting novice.

I did split a small piece of wood using the hatchet and a hammer. It
was a piece of cake! Much easier than trying to cut across the wood as
I did before.

Maybe in the future I'll just split up smaller logs into small pieces
and then break them in half by hand to feed the smoker.

I did smoke some ribs in my WSM today using the small log I had hacked
in two with the hatchet. It worked great. I'm not sure, but I think
the wood was oak. It was maybe a little too smokey, but the ribs were
still delicious.

- Bobby