http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoked_meat

Smoked meat is a method of preparing red meat (and fish) which
originates in prehistory. Its purpose is to preserve these protein-
rich foods, which would otherwise spoil quickly, for long periods.
There are two mechanisms for this preservation: dehydration and the
antibacterial properties of absorbed smoke. In modern days, the
enhanced flavor of smoked foods makes them a delicacy in many
cultures.
Contents
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* 1 General
* 2 Montreal
* 3 Health concerns
* 4 See also
* 5 References

[edit] General

Smoking of meat and fish has been practiced for ages. Indigenous
cultures around the world may have used smoke during the drying of
fish to drive away the flies. They soon found that the absorbed smoke
acted as a preservative. Perhaps the most famous "smokers of meat"
were the Caribbean natives who smoked it on a rack over a smoky fire,
a setup they called "barbacoa" (one possible etymological origin of
barbecue).

Famous among early smokers of meat are the Ashkenazi Jewish
communities in Europe, and is often associated with other foods
popularized by Jewish communities, such as bagels. In The United
States it is referred to as pastrami which is derived from the
Yiddish: פ� סטר�מע (pronounced pastrómeh). However, lovers of pastrami
vociferously argue that the consistency, flavoring, seasoning and
color of pastrami differs significantly from that of smoked meat.
Pastrami comes in two flavors-"old fashioned" which is a process where
the meat is naturally aged or cured and "regular" a process whereby
additives are used to age the meat. Generally, those who have tested
traditional "New York Deli" pastrami agree that it is similar, but not
identical, to pastrami Smoked Meat. Both the dish and the word were
brought to North America with the wave of Jewish immigration from
Bessarabia and Romania in the second half of the 19th century; it is
similar to roast brisket, a signature dish of the local Jewish cuisine
of these regions. Smoked meat, also known as salt beef in London, is
cured, spiced, and flavoured in ways similar to corned beef.
Difference in meat cut and spicing mean that smoked meat's taste is
different from either of these, and even varies among recipes.

American smoked meats, also known as Barbecue or BBQ were developed to
use the "cheaper" cuts of meats, as they were typically tough and
deemed "undesirable". The "low and slow" cooking methods made these
cuts a delicacy sought after today. Usually done in a "low temp"
environment (200° to 300°F) (93° to 149°C) they take a significant
amount of time to prepare. The "secret" is the breaking down of the
connective tissues and collagens within the meat, and the rendering
out of the fat. A sub-category is the plethora of sauces and "mops"
that are used to flavor and further tenderize the meats. BBQ has
become a culinary art form, and hundreds of competitions are held
yearly.
[edit] Montreal

Along with bagels, smoked meat has been popular in Montreal since the
nineteenth century, and has taken such strong root in that city that
many Montrealers, and even many non-Montrealers, identify it as
emblematic of the city's cuisine. Current and former residents and
tourists make a point of visiting Montreal's best-known smoked meat
establishments, even taking whole briskets away as take-out. Despite
the food's origins in, and association with, Montreal's Jewish
community, and contrary to what is sometimes asserted, these delis are
not certified as kosher.[citation needed]

The primary producer of Montreal smoked meat is Lesters Foods, which
had its origins as a Jewish delicatessen in 1931 on the historic St.
Laurent boulevard, better known as "the Main", dividing Montreal into
east and west. Lesters Foods supplies Montreal smoked meat to many
restaurants, delis and grocery stores throughout Canada. Other famous
shops include Schwartz's, Reuben's, Dunn's, Jay C's Express, Jarry
Smoked Meat, Georges Smoke Meat, Lester's, Abie's Smoked Meat,
Chenoy's, Pete's Smoked Meat, the Main Deli, the Snowdon Deli, and
Bens De Luxe Delicatessen & Restaurant, which was a Montreal
institution for 98 years until its closure in late 2006. Montreal
smoke meat can now be purchased in Brooklyn New York from a Deli
called Mile End which was open and is run by a Montreal native.[1]

Beyond the delis listed here, smoked meat, (French: "sandwich Ã* la
viande fumée" or "smoked-meat"),[2] is offered in many Montreal diners
and fast food chains. Smoked meat has become popularized beyond its
Jewish origins into the general population of Quebec, where smoked
meat has been integrated into popular dishes, such as, for example,
"smoked meat poutine" or "Québécois-style pizza."

Smoked meat can similarly be found across Canada (see Shopsy's of
Toronto), although proponents of Montreal's smoked meat claim that it
cannot be obtained in its tastiest, or most authentic form, outside of
Montreal. Several restaurateurs have offered to franchise Schwartz's
in cities across North America. Its owners, however, have always
refused; but do deliver by mail-order. Montreal Style smoked meat can
be found in the US as Lesters does supply US delicatessens in some US
cities.

Montreal smoked meat is always sliced by hand in order to maintain its
temperature. Since it is so popular, whole briskets are kept steaming
and sliced up on demand. Non-specialized restaurants outside of
Montreal do not have the volume of smoked meat customers to justify
this practice, and usually only have cold pre-sliced meat on hand, and
re-heated when a customer orders one sandwich.That negatively affects
the taste and texture of the meat. Caplansky's Delicatessen in Toronto
prides itself in serving traditional smoked meat - cured, smoked and
sliced by hand, on premises.
[edit] Health concerns

One study has shown a positive correlation between frequency of
consumption of smoked foods and intestinal cancer.[3]