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DaleW DaleW is offline
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Default TN: Francly my dear...Cheval Blanc, Loires, Le Dome, Pride, Havens

Last night was my turn to host a local wine group. Host chooses theme,
I chose Cab Franc. I had discussed theme with a couple of people, but
for most people it was double blind to start.

While we gathered, we had some wild board proscuitto with figs and
parmesan, and the 1999 Pierre Matrot "Les Combettes" Puligny-Montrachet
1er. Rather rich and tropical, more lush than the minerally wine that
I remembered, but still quite attractive. B+

Then to the reds:

Flight One (served with some smoked duck breast & assorted cheeses).

1989 Catherine et Pierre Breton "GrandMont" Bourgueil
Black raspberry fruit with a strong (but to me attractive) streak of
green pepper. Young, firm tannins and acidity, with some coffee and
licorice aromas. I liked more than table in general. B+

1989 Olga Raffault "Les Picasses" Chinon
I expected to prefer this to the Breton, as this bottling is usually my
favorite Loire red, but this didn't sing to me. Tannins seemed rougher
than the Breton, and at same time it is surprisingly low-acid. Someone
mentions a mediocre St. Emilion and it does remind me of that a bit.
B-.

Flight Two
2001 Havens Bourriquot
This is about 2/3s CF and 1/3 Merlot, it is intended as the winemaker's
tribute to Cheval Blanc. I liked more than table in general, finding it
to be a pretty decent example of mid-sized California wine. Plenty of
spicy/toasty oak, both red and black currant fruit, smooth texture and
good finish. B+

1998 Le Petit Cheval (St. Emilion)
This was rather disappointing - had quite liked the 2000 recently. At
least as Californian as the CA wine. Oak, round fruit, plush, a little
empty. B-

At this point we revealed the previous 4 bottles, from now on everyone
knew that Cab Franc was theme, but bottles were still blind

Flight Three (served with cold roast lamb -which I had overcooked-,
potato salad, and beans)

1981 Ch.Cheval Blanc (St. Emilion)
Mature and maybe just a tad tired, but rather elegant with red fruit
edged with earth and cigarbox. Some cedary elements get more pronounced
in the glass. Overshadowed by its flightmate, but really a nice bottle
of mature Bordeaux. B+/A-

1983 Ch.Cheval Blanc (St. Emilion )
I had chosen the Cab Franc theme as an excuse to get this bottle, which
had stunned me previously. That's a recipe for disappointment, but not
this time. Rich, vibrant, and young, with powerful blackberry and
black cherry fruit, some light mocha notes, and a clean long finish.
The nose becomes more exotic as it sits in glass, with coffee and
sandalwood curling around the solid fruit base. Great wine for my
tastes. A

Flight Four

2000 Ch. Le Dome (St. Emilion)
Mark had known the theme, and suggested this 70% CF garagiste. This had
hours in the decanter, but still was a bit of a beast. Hulking
extracted wine, black fruit battling with heavy oak for supremacy. This
isn't my style of wine,but it does have some interest. Just not $225
worth ($25, maybe). B/B-

2001 Pride Mountain Cabernet Franc ( Sonoma)
A few years ago I liked a La Jota CF. A semi- local store listed an
older bottle that in their inventory, but they couldn't find when I was
in neighborhood. When I told them it was for a Cab Franc tasting, they
convinced me to take the Pride (I think I had also read Parker
commenting la Jota and Pride were best examples of CF in CA). Salesguy
said "I guarantee this will win its flight." Nope. This is another
hulking extracted wine, this time with blueberries battling the oak.
But here the oak just kicked the fruit's ass. I got tweezers to remove
the oak from my mouth. Disjointed, awkward wine. Not sure I've ever had
a non-damaged $99 bottle I disliked as much. A retaste hours later was
no improvement. I'm debating whether to even add this to my vinegar
crock. C

We finished with an off-theme dessert wine (budget didn't extend to
Quintarelli Alzero), the 1985 Moulin Touchais (Coteaux du Layon).
Candied fruit, a little caramel, somewhat unevolved. Good acidity. This
isn't great sweet Chenin, but it's a fun way to end evening. B+/B

Nice group, fun evening (especially since I didn't need to drive).

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of
consistency.