BigBob wrote:
> > wrote in message
> oups.com...
> >
> > ..snip..snip
> > If you do get the SFB, I recommend adding a steel baffle between the
> > main body and the SFB. My neighbor made one for mine that hangs on the
> > inside of the main body, over the side next to the SFB. That way, I can
> > remove it to make adjustments to it, and to clean the main body.
> >
>
> Hey Jim - Quick question.... I'm using the CharGriller with the SFB and have
> been pretty pleased with it. I've added the chimney extension but I'm
> curious about the baffle. Are you using the baffle to deflect direct heat?
> I've had some problems with that on mine. I've inverted the fire pan in the
> main chamber, which helped some but not enough. I'd appreciate any details
> on your baffle - what's it made of, how did you hang it, etc. I'm not a
> metal worker, but I'd like to jury-rig something. Thanks,
> Bob

Hey Bob-

Hopefully I can explain the baffle to you in a way that makes sense!
I'm not too "mechanically" or otherwise inclined, which is why my
neighbor made the baffle for me. Thankfully, he has every tool
imaginable, and can make just about anything out of just about
anything! I bought a piece of steel- a little bigger than the inside of
the main body- I think it was 22 guage, and about 18"x12" at Lowes. You
want it thin enough so that it can be bent in a vice- with a hammer, or
even by hand. My neighbor- we'll call him Dave- since that's his name,
measured the right side of the inside of the main body- hood opened. He
then cut out a piece from the steel that was shaped just like the
inside righthand side of the body- with about a 1/4"-1/2" gap around
the curved part. It matches exactly with the top, and the slight gap is
on the sides and bottom, or the curved part of the main body. Dave then
cut 2 small strips, both towards the front and the back, along the
curved part, about 1/2" wide and 1" long, and bent them towards the
right side, (the SFB) so that they would push the baffle slightly away
from the opening, allowing heat in, but deflecting it, in order to
avoid direct heat. He cut two strips from the leftover steel, app
1&1/2" wide and 2-3" long, and riveted them on the top of the baffle,
app 2" from the front and again 2" from the back, and formed these to
act as "hangers". I hang the baffle from the top of the main body,
inside the main body, along the righthand side, in front of the opening
between the main body and the SFB. I drilled a few holes in the baffle,
as the temp was not getting quite hot enough. This also makes it easy
to remove the baffle to clean the main body! Unfortunately, I have no
way to post pictures of the baffle. I'd advise you to check out the
pictures Al Reid posted, as his baffle may be even better than mine.
However, mine is definetely effective, and I like the fact that it is
easily removable for cleaning, etc.

Hope this helps,

Jim