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Default TN: dinner with the Liptons (Burg, Bdx, Rhne, Loire,Wachau etc)

On Feb 10, 1:29Â*pm, DaleW > wrote:
> On Feb 10, 1:55�pm, DaleW > wrote:
>
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> > Mark and Jean Lipton were in town, and Betsy and I were delighted to
> > join them for dinner. A planned slight detour by Lincoln Center turned
> > into a minor traffic nightmare, so we were a bit late getting to
> > Cendrillon in SoHo. We arrived to find Mark, Jean, the real Jay
> > Miller, and the renowned SFJoe (who I'd never met before) patiently
> > waiting.

>
> > A nice assortment of wines followed. I was a tad out of sorts, and
> > didn't take notes at the time, but following are some impressions. I
> > will say the food at Cendrillon was excellent. I had an extraordinary
> > goat curry with chutney and rice pancakes, followed by a tasty oxtail
> > dish with an unusual fermented shrimp paste. Betsy had the lumpia,
> > which I thought was like an egg roll (based on my one previous
> > Filipino meal), but was more of a big wrap filled with veggies. Her
> > main was very good shortribs with an excellent sauce. We brought most
> > of our wines, but list was VERY interesting and well-priced for NY.

>
> > The white wines:
> > 1964 Huet Vouvray Sec
> > This was actually a petillant, though label said Sec not Brut. Some
> > petillance remaining, baked apples and lemon, good length, very
> > interesting wine. B+/B

>
> > 1991 Alzinger "Durnsteiner Hollerin" Riesling Smaragd
> > I found this a delightful surprise. From an "off" vintage, proof that
> > good producers make good wine. In this case very good wine. Lighter
> > than any Wachau Smaragd I've run across, sprightly wine with apple,
> > peach, and ginger flavors. Delicate hints of petrol, though on a
> > revisit later in night that was even less apparent. I quite enjoyed
> > this. B+/A-

>
> > 1998 Franz Hirtzberger "Singerriedel" �Riesling Smaragd
> > Much bigger Riesling. Dry, but with a ripe fruit profile. Peach,
> > honey, apricot. Some earth and smoke notes. Powerful, good, �but I
> > think I preferred the Alzinger from a lesser vintage overall. B+

>
> > 2002 Puffeney Arbois Savagnin
> > Wild nose that reminds me of dried mushrooms with a hint of overripe
> > sheeps cheese, not quite like anything I ever smelled before. Palate
> > is much more conventional, rather easy drinking, though edging on hot.
> > I think others liked more than I did, I found the nose intriguing, but
> > not inviting. To be a true geek maybe one has to learn to love oddball
> > wines like this (and Vin Jaune, and obscure Sherries), but I'll just
> > remain a bystander. Nice to watch, but not my fave to drink. B-/C+

>
> > 1996 Soucherie "Clos des Perrieres" Savennieres
> > My other contribution. Very muted at first, almost dilute. Picks up
> > weight and flavor with time. Apple, wax, and lemon rind, good acidity,
> > nice wine. I like, but don't find the depth I had in '96 Closel or
> > even the regular Baumard (good bottles). B

>
> > The red wines
> > 1978 Haut-Bailly
> > I think this is the 3rd time I've had one of these from Jay's stash.
> > Jay thinks this bottle substandard, but I quite enjoyed (especially at
> > end of evening). Not at all a blockbuster, some might find thin, but I
> > found elegant and balanced. Good acidity, bright red-toned fruit, lots
> > of cedar and tobacco aromas. Maybe could use a lighter more density
> > and length, but a very nice wine with food. B+

>
> > 1998 Drouhin "Clos des Chenes" Volnay
> > This is showing a tad rough and coarse right now. Big, good dark berry
> > fruit, high acidity, some tannins. I think this is probably the best
> > wine we had this night, but really not ready, and less fun to taste
> > now. Everyone keeps saying the '98s are drinking well, but I keep
> > thinking they need more time. This night this one is a B/B-. Bet in
> > 5-10 I'll be thinking a variance on an A.

>
> > 1998 Grivot Vosne-Romanee
> > OK, so here is a '98 that is drinking ok. Clean cherry fruit, a little
> > hint of kirsch (though not at all overripe), some spice. Not a big
> > wine, but a nice dinner companion. B/B+

>
> > 1997 Ogier Cote-Rotie
> > I think I liked this more than others. Friendly puppy dog of a
> > Northern Rhone, round blackberry and cherry fruit, some smoked meat
> > and floral notes. Ferric/mineral edge on finish, very good. B+/A-

>
> > Fun night, even if I was beat. Nice to see Mark, Jean, and Jay again,
> > good to meet Joe. I liked lots of the wines, and loved the food. The
> > owner/chef joined us for a few tastes, and there was no corkage charge
> > on the bill. Even with a lavish tip it was a fairly cheap evening.
> > I'll be back to the restaurant (as I noted, nice list).

>
> > Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
> > wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
> > drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
> > promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

>
> oh yeah, and a '95 Luneau-Papin L' d'Or was corked. - Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


FWIW, I opened a 1998 Girardin Bonnes Mares last night and it could
use a little more time although it did improve in the glass
substantially. Sounds like a fun night!