Over the last year I have purchased a couple of Stainless Steel beer
kegs I found at a junkyard on speculation they might make decent
fermentation vessels. The first one was a beat-up pony keg with
ring-type seals on the taps that can be unscrewed fairly easily. I used
it as a transfer vessel last year after cleaning out the "beer smell". I
found 2 other 15 gallon kegs that look like a more modern Anheuser-Busch
design, but there seems no obvious way of opening the tap holes without
special equipment or special spouts. The kegs only cost me $15 apiece,
so if they become bench supports or wine cellar ornaments, then I won't
be too heartbroken. Anyone have any ideas, short of a cutting torch and
a welder (though I am considering that option too!)

Bruce_Nolte_N3LSY& wrote:
> Over the last year I have purchased a couple of Stainless Steel beer
> kegs I found at a junkyard on speculation they might make decent
> fermentation vessels. The first one was a beat-up pony keg with
> ring-type seals on the taps that can be unscrewed fairly easily. I used
> it as a transfer vessel last year after cleaning out the "beer smell". I
> found 2 other 15 gallon kegs that look like a more modern Anheuser-Busch
> design, but there seems no obvious way of opening the tap holes without
> special equipment or special spouts. The kegs only cost me $15 apiece,
> so if they become bench supports or wine cellar ornaments, then I won't
> be too heartbroken. Anyone have any ideas, short of a cutting torch and
> a welder (though I am considering that option too!)
Hi Bruce

Kegs are great for bulk storage. There is a
stainless steel ring that holds the dip tube in
place. Removing it is not hard. First and
foremost relieve the pressure in the keg. The
easiest and safest way is by installing a tap
and opening it up. This will allow the CO2 to
escape along with any remaining beer. If you
don't have a tap place a rag over the ball and
press on it with your thumb, or you can use a
dowel rod. Once you are absolutely sure the
pressure is out of the keg you can proceed.
Look closely at the top of the dip tube and you
will see the ring. Work a tool like a small,
thin screwdriver into the top of the ring at the
end and pry on it until you can get enough of it
out of the space to grab it with a pair of
pliers. You will be trying to move the end of
the ring toward the center of the tube where the
ball is located. Once you can get purcase on
the ring with pliers continue to pry on it with
screwdriver while pulling with pliers.
Eventually it move. It's springy and will
resist this procedure but you can remove it.
Once you've removed it twist the tube to line up
the pins with the slots on the top of the tap
mount and pull out the dip tube. Clean it and
save the parts. You may decide to make beer
someday. Thoroughly clean the keg. A number
10.5 stopper (try several: your keg may require
a #10 or a #11) should fit in the hole and you
are ready to go.

HTH

Frank

Frank Mirigliano wrote:
> Bruce_Nolte_N3LSY& wrote:
>
>> Over the last year I have purchased a couple of Stainless Steel beer
>> kegs I found at a junkyard on speculation they might make decent
>> fermentation vessels. The first one was a beat-up pony keg with
>> ring-type seals on the taps that can be unscrewed fairly easily. I
>> used it as a transfer vessel last year after cleaning out the "beer
>> smell". I found 2 other 15 gallon kegs that look like a more modern
>> Anheuser-Busch design, but there seems no obvious way of opening the
>> tap holes without special equipment or special spouts. The kegs only
>> cost me $15 apiece, so if they become bench supports or wine cellar
>> ornaments, then I won't be too heartbroken. Anyone have any ideas,
>> short of a cutting torch and a welder (though I am considering that
>> option too!)
>
> Hi Bruce
>
> Kegs are great for bulk storage. There is a stainless steel ring that
> holds the dip tube in place. Removing it is not hard. First and
> foremost relieve the pressure in the keg. The easiest and safest way is
> by installing a tap and opening it up. This will allow the CO2 to
> escape along with any remaining beer. If you don't have a tap place a
> rag over the ball and press on it with your thumb, or you can use a
> dowel rod. Once you are absolutely sure the pressure is out of the keg
> you can proceed. Look closely at the top of the dip tube and you will
> see the ring. Work a tool like a small, thin screwdriver into the top
> of the ring at the end and pry on it until you can get enough of it out
> of the space to grab it with a pair of pliers. You will be trying to
> move the end of the ring toward the center of the tube where the ball
> is located. Once you can get purcase on the ring with pliers continue
> to pry on it with screwdriver while pulling with pliers. Eventually it
> move. It's springy and will resist this procedure but you can remove
> it. Once you've removed it twist the tube to line up the pins with the
> slots on the top of the tap mount and pull out the dip tube. Clean it
> and save the parts. You may decide to make beer someday. Thoroughly
> clean the keg. A number 10.5 stopper (try several: your keg may
> require a #10 or a #11) should fit in the hole and you are ready to go.
>
> HTH
>
> Frank
I figured out the trick this afternoon before I logged on. I will need
the secondary fementation/bulk storage capacity once my vineyard starts
producing (got in about 50 vines). I will have to check in with S&S
Produce (my local winemaking supply/grape connection) when he opens for
business after Labor Day for the stoppers.

This year will be some experimentation with some white varieties,
hopefully I can find some decent Seyval grapes, which are one of the
varieties I have planted. Last year's Zinfandel and Barbera turned out
fairly well, (nobody spit it up) despite several days delayed processing
of the grapes, and protracted secondary fermentation in an unheated
shed. I plan to have things ready to go when I bring the grapes home.

how, exactly, is a keg cleaned??? I've always wondered about that, suppose
some beer is left there and rots and leaves some crud in there, how do you
get it out?

--
billb
"Bruce_Nolte_N3LSY&" > wrote in message
...
> Frank Mirigliano wrote:
> > Bruce_Nolte_N3LSY& wrote:
> >
> >> Over the last year I have purchased a couple of Stainless Steel beer
> >> kegs I found at a junkyard on speculation they might make decent
> >> fermentation vessels. The first one was a beat-up pony keg with
> >> ring-type seals on the taps that can be unscrewed fairly easily. I
> >> used it as a transfer vessel last year after cleaning out the "beer
> >> smell". I found 2 other 15 gallon kegs that look like a more modern
> >> Anheuser-Busch design, but there seems no obvious way of opening the
> >> tap holes without special equipment or special spouts. The kegs only
> >> cost me $15 apiece, so if they become bench supports or wine cellar
> >> ornaments, then I won't be too heartbroken. Anyone have any ideas,
> >> short of a cutting torch and a welder (though I am considering that
> >> option too!)
> >
> > Hi Bruce
> >
> > Kegs are great for bulk storage. There is a stainless steel ring that
> > holds the dip tube in place. Removing it is not hard. First and
> > foremost relieve the pressure in the keg. The easiest and safest way is
> > by installing a tap and opening it up. This will allow the CO2 to
> > escape along with any remaining beer. If you don't have a tap place a
> > rag over the ball and press on it with your thumb, or you can use a
> > dowel rod. Once you are absolutely sure the pressure is out of the keg
> > you can proceed. Look closely at the top of the dip tube and you will
> > see the ring. Work a tool like a small, thin screwdriver into the top
> > of the ring at the end and pry on it until you can get enough of it out
> > of the space to grab it with a pair of pliers. You will be trying to
> > move the end of the ring toward the center of the tube where the ball
> > is located. Once you can get purcase on the ring with pliers continue
> > to pry on it with screwdriver while pulling with pliers. Eventually it
> > move. It's springy and will resist this procedure but you can remove
> > it. Once you've removed it twist the tube to line up the pins with the
> > slots on the top of the tap mount and pull out the dip tube. Clean it
> > and save the parts. You may decide to make beer someday. Thoroughly
> > clean the keg. A number 10.5 stopper (try several: your keg may
> > require a #10 or a #11) should fit in the hole and you are ready to go.
> >
> > HTH
> >
> > Frank
> I figured out the trick this afternoon before I logged on. I will need
> the secondary fementation/bulk storage capacity once my vineyard starts
> producing (got in about 50 vines). I will have to check in with S&S
> Produce (my local winemaking supply/grape connection) when he opens for
> business after Labor Day for the stoppers.
>
> This year will be some experimentation with some white varieties,
> hopefully I can find some decent Seyval grapes, which are one of the
> varieties I have planted. Last year's Zinfandel and Barbera turned out
> fairly well, (nobody spit it up) despite several days delayed processing
> of the grapes, and protracted secondary fermentation in an unheated
> shed. I plan to have things ready to go when I bring the grapes home.

billb wrote:
> how, exactly, is a keg cleaned??? I've always wondered about that, suppose
> some beer is left there and rots and leaves some crud in there, how do you
> get it out?
>
> --


I use a jet of hot water to dislodge crud, followed by a soak in
oxi-clean, rinse with plain water then use a sanitizing rinse.

Andy

"billb" > wrote in message
.. .
> how, exactly, is a keg cleaned??? I've always wondered about that,
> suppose
> some beer is left there and rots and leaves some crud in there, how do you
> get it out?

You have to release the pressure, remove the snap ring and pull out the
siphon tube. Then you can dump the contents and blast the inside clean with
a pistol grip nozzle and hot water. Of course the keg should be upside down
for the blasting nad draining (duh!). :^)

For closures, use either a large rubber stopper, a barrel bung or a
Tri-Clover plate and gasket with clamp.

Tom S

Bruce, I use a standard keg for bulk aging my un-oaked reds. Once you
get the guts out, hang a small flashlight in the keg to asses the
situation. You'll probably see a lot of brown matter coating the
walls. This is pretty hard to remove without the right stuff. You
won't get anywhere w/ dishsoap and a carboy brush. Stay away from
bleach. I use a slightly diluted acid-wash designed for stainless. As
you pour that stuff in, the brown immediately disappears...leaving
behind a clean stainless surface. Make sure you rinse after this wash.


The opening of a standard keg can be filled w/ standard silicon bungs
used for 225L barrels. If you ferment in there, you can use a
ferm-rite (sp?) bung.

Save the keg guts. You can rebuild the keg if you want later, you'll
just want to buy a new ring...I've seen them online somwewhere. -David

is there ever a need for brushes? do you look inside and how effective is
that if you can't see everything?

--
billb
"JEP62" > wrote in message
ups.com...
>
> billb wrote:
> > how, exactly, is a keg cleaned??? I've always wondered about that,
suppose
> > some beer is left there and rots and leaves some crud in there, how do
you
> > get it out?
> >
> > --
>
>
> I use a jet of hot water to dislodge crud, followed by a soak in
> oxi-clean, rinse with plain water then use a sanitizing rinse.
>
> Andy
>

billb wrote:
> is there ever a need for brushes? do you look inside and how effective is
> that if you can't see everything?

You don't need a brush, but it might facilitate the removal of the beer
sludge sticking to the inside of the keg. The acid wash does a pretty
good job of removing everything. Hanging a small flashlight inside the
keg gives you a view of most of the inside, but I think it's reasonable
to assume that the part you can't see is about as clean/dirty as the
part you can see. The brand of acid solution I use is Five Star...got
a big bottle of it at my local winemaking store for less than $10.
-David

"David D." > wrote in message
oups.com...
> Bruce, I use a standard keg for bulk aging my un-oaked reds. Once you
> get the guts out, hang a small flashlight in the keg to asses the
> situation. You'll probably see a lot of brown matter coating the
> walls. This is pretty hard to remove without the right stuff. You
> won't get anywhere w/ dishsoap and a carboy brush. Stay away from
> bleach.

Why? Bleach will definitely remove that stuff and it's cheap and easy to
get anywhere. Just be sure to rinse it out thoroughly. After rinsing, fill
the keg completely full of water, dump the water on the lawn or a flowerbed
(so's not to waste it) and the empty keg will be ready for wine.

Tom S

Hanging a small flashlight inside the
> keg gives you a view of most of the inside, but I think it's reasonable
> to assume that the part you can't see is about as clean/dirty

sounds like a lot of guesswork. but i suppose if you get away with it you
can take your chances!

--
billb
"David D." > wrote in message
oups.com...
>
> billb wrote:
> > is there ever a need for brushes? do you look inside and how effective
is
> > that if you can't see everything?
>
> You don't need a brush, but it might facilitate the removal of the beer
> sludge sticking to the inside of the keg. The acid wash does a pretty
> good job of removing everything. as the
> part you can see. The brand of acid solution I use is Five Star...got
> a big bottle of it at my local winemaking store for less than $10.
> -David
>

> Why? Bleach will definitely remove that stuff and it's cheap and easy to
> get anywhere. Just be sure to rinse it out thoroughly. After rinsing, fill
> the keg completely full of water, dump the water on the lawn or a flowerbed
> (so's not to waste it) and the empty keg will be ready for wine.

> Tom S

Bleach wouldn't remove the brown stains from the inside of my keg. The
only thing that worked for me was an acid wash. The bleach was my
second to last resort because I heard that bleach would cause pitting
on a stainless surface. Is there a certain exposure threshold for
pitting with certain concentrations of bleach in contact with
stainless? -David

> sounds like a lot of guesswork. but i suppose if you get away with it you
> can take your chances!
> --
> billb

True, but there aren't a whole lot of options...unless you put a small
mirror on a stick (like a dental mirror), lower the mirror inside the
keg, and shine a flashlight on the mirror. That might work. -David

that's what i was thinking, a mirror. or maybe a tv camera the size of a
lipstick.

--
billb
"David D." > wrote in message
oups.com...
> > sounds like a lot of guesswork. but i suppose if you get away with it
you
> > can take your chances!
> > --
> > billb
>
> True, but there aren't a whole lot of options...unless you put a small
> mirror on a stick (like a dental mirror), lower the mirror inside the
> keg, and shine a flashlight on the mirror. That might work. -David
>

"David D." > wrote in message
oups.com...
> Bleach wouldn't remove the brown stains from the inside of my keg. The
> only thing that worked for me was an acid wash. The bleach was my
> second to last resort because I heard that bleach would cause pitting
> on a stainless surface. Is there a certain exposure threshold for
> pitting with certain concentrations of bleach in contact with
> stainless?

Not that I've ever heard of. Commercial bleach is actually pretty dilute to
start with at only ~5% sodium hypochlorite.

Be careful switching back and forth between bleach and acid. You can gas
yourself _bigtime_!

Tom S

I built a key system for topping my barrel and had similar issues with
sanitizing. Just wondering whether or not chlorine based cleaners are
advisable, given the link between chlorine and TCA? In any case, I've
found oxygen based cleaners like Sodium Percarbonate are extremely
effective, too.

Darin