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Winemaking (rec.crafts.winemaking) Discussion of the process, recipes, tips, techniques and general exchange of lore on the process, methods and history of wine making. Includes traditional grape wines, sparkling wines & champagnes. |
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Hi,
I'm new to wine making and I was wondering if folks could recommend a sanitization product. I mainly need to keep fermentation vessels, a siphon, and bottles free from spoiling microorganisms. I am making mostly small batches a gallon or so at a time, using pasteurized juice (so I don't need to kill off microbes in the must). There are a number of products on the market and I'm not sure which to use. Some of them advertise as "no rinse". Does that mean some other products require a rinse? In that case what do you rinse with? Tap water? If that were true why bother sanitizing at all? Also I bought some stoppers with holes for airlocks but the stoppers smell strongly of rubber and I don't want that smell to go into the wine. Could that happen? Did I buy the wrong thing? Thanks, David |
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David wrote:
> Hi, > > I'm new to wine making and I was wondering if folks could recommend a > sanitization product. I mainly need to keep fermentation vessels, a siphon, > and bottles free from spoiling microorganisms. I am making mostly small > batches a gallon or so at a time, using pasteurized juice (so I don't need > to kill off microbes in the must). > > There are a number of products on the market and I'm not sure which to use. > Some of them advertise as "no rinse". Does that mean some other products > require a rinse? In that case what do you rinse with? Tap water? If that > were true why bother sanitizing at all? > > Also I bought some stoppers with holes for airlocks but the stoppers smell > strongly of rubber and I don't want that smell to go into the wine. Could > that happen? Did I buy the wrong thing? I use 50g powdered KMS(potssium metabisulphite) in 4 litres of boiling water for sanitizing everything. You can rinse with ditilled water afterwards if you desire. |
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The most common sanitizer is sodium metabiosulfite or potassium
metabiosulfite. Sodium meta is cheaper and a great sanitizer. It should not be used in the wine. For that use the Potassium meta, so it is a good idea to have both. The instructions for mixing a sanitizing solution is given on the package when you get it. You should mix in some citric acid when you make the solution. This will enhance the action and I think it makes it keep longer. A solution should be good for several months and then needs to be used fresh. When you clean your carboys and are going to store them, pour a few tablespoons in each and seal it with plastic wrap. It will be sanitized when you need it 6 months or a year later. If your rubber bungs smell of rubber, soak them in the solution for a few days and they will probably loose the smell. They should not be in contact with the wine anyway but I agree that you should get rid of the smell before use. Ray "David" > wrote in message ... > Hi, > > I'm new to wine making and I was wondering if folks could recommend a > sanitization product. I mainly need to keep fermentation vessels, a > siphon, > and bottles free from spoiling microorganisms. I am making mostly small > batches a gallon or so at a time, using pasteurized juice (so I don't need > to kill off microbes in the must). > > There are a number of products on the market and I'm not sure which to > use. > Some of them advertise as "no rinse". Does that mean some other products > require a rinse? In that case what do you rinse with? Tap water? If that > were true why bother sanitizing at all? > > Also I bought some stoppers with holes for airlocks but the stoppers smell > strongly of rubber and I don't want that smell to go into the wine. Could > that happen? Did I buy the wrong thing? > > > Thanks, > > David > > > |
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![]() "David" > wrote in message ... > Hi, > > In that case what do you rinse with? Tap water? If that > were true why bother sanitizing at all? > There seems to be a popular misconception that tap water is not "sanitary". Unless you are getting your water untreated from a well in the middle of a cow pasture or something, it's sanitary enough for all ordinary purposes. The advantage of "no-rinse" sanitizers is convenience. If you don't believe me, mix some tapwater with a small amount of malt extract that's been separate boiled in some water (to sanitize anything in the extract, not the water). Bottle it and wait for it to spoil. You will be waiting a long time I think. I actually tried this once. After two weeks nothing had happened. In my experience, the primary source of microbial contamination is inadequate physical cleaning. A drop of must or wort is left inside some piece of equipment and grows something, which later gets transferred to your wine or beer. Sanitizers are no substitute for elbow grease. --arne |
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![]() > There seems to be a popular misconception that tap water is not > "sanitary". Unless you are getting your water untreated from a well > in the middle of a cow pasture or something, it's sanitary enough for > all ordinary purposes. The advantage of "no-rinse" sanitizers is > convenience. > > If you don't believe me, mix some tapwater with a small amount of malt > extract that's been separate boiled in some water (to sanitize > anything in the extract, not the water). Bottle it and wait for it to > spoil. You will be waiting a long time I think. I actually tried > this once. After two weeks nothing had happened. > > In my experience, the primary source of microbial contamination is > inadequate physical cleaning. A drop of must or wort is left inside > some piece of equipment and grows something, which later gets > transferred to your wine or beer. Sanitizers are no substitute for > elbow grease. > > --arne > > Here, here, Arne. I use brushes and soda ash to wash and plenty of tap water to rinse. Having already tested the wine for SO2 I put the amount of potasium metabisulphite needed into the freshly rinsed container and rack. It's simple and it works. Frank |
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Hi
What do you do when racking into the secondary fermentation vessels? How does one clean/sanitize the siphon? Thanks, David "Frank Mirigliano" > wrote in message ... > .... > > I use brushes and soda ash to wash and plenty of tap water to rinse. > Having already tested the wine for SO2 I put the amount of potasium > metabisulphite needed into the freshly rinsed container and rack. It's > simple and it works. > > Frank |
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![]() "David" > wrote in message ... > Hi > > What do you do when racking into the secondary fermentation vessels? > > > How does one clean/sanitize the siphon? > > Thanks, > > David David, Wash the siphon with clean water as soon as you finish racking. Then hang the siphon up so it will drain completely and dry out. -- Lum Del Mar, California, USA |
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![]() "David" > wrote in message ... > Hi > > What do you do when racking into the secondary fermentation vessels? > > > How does one clean/sanitize the siphon? > > Thanks, > > David David, Wash the siphon with clean water as soon as you finish racking. Then hang the siphon up so it will drain completely and dry out. -- Lum Del Mar, California, USA |
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I am somewhat new to this newsgroup also...but have been reading it for some
time now. I have been making wine for a few years now and have NEVER sanitized with anything other than tap water and anti-bacterial handsoap. I have never had a problem. I have never had a batch of wine go bad from my sterilizing practices. In order to have bacteria or fungus grow on your equipment it must have something to "feed" upon so as long as you wash and rinse thoroughly (tap water is fine), you won't ever have a problem...I speak from experience. You need to be cognizant of the potential for contamination, but there is no need to be paranoid. Sanitizers and sterilizers do serve a vital purpose in winemaking, and are even necessary at times, but let's remember that the ancient Sumerians were able to make wine without them several thousand years ago...you can too. -Dan "Frank Mirigliano" > wrote in message ... > >> There seems to be a popular misconception that tap water is not >> "sanitary". Unless you are getting your water untreated from a well in >> the middle of a cow pasture or something, it's sanitary enough for all >> ordinary purposes. The advantage of "no-rinse" sanitizers is >> convenience. >> >> If you don't believe me, mix some tapwater with a small amount of malt >> extract that's been separate boiled in some water (to sanitize anything >> in the extract, not the water). Bottle it and wait for it to spoil. You >> will be waiting a long time I think. I actually tried this once. After >> two weeks nothing had happened. >> >> In my experience, the primary source of microbial contamination is >> inadequate physical cleaning. A drop of must or wort is left inside some >> piece of equipment and grows something, which later gets transferred to >> your wine or beer. Sanitizers are no substitute for elbow grease. >> >> --arne >> >> > > Here, here, Arne. > > I use brushes and soda ash to wash and plenty of tap water to rinse. > Having already tested the wine for SO2 I put the amount of potasium > metabisulphite needed into the freshly rinsed container and rack. It's > simple and it works. > > Frank |
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![]() "Dan and Alicia Quagliana" > wrote in message ... Sanitizers and > sterilizers do serve a vital purpose in winemaking, and are even necessary > at times, but let's remember that the ancient Sumerians were able to make > wine without them several thousand years ago...you can too. And in a past life, you had some of this Sumerian wine and can comment knowledgeably on its quality? Shall we emulate their medical practices for health care, too? Sorry, referencing the practices of ancients is rarely a strong defense of anything. Brian |
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You bring up a good point that I do not have any knowledge of the quality of
ancient Sumerian wines; however, I *am* qualified to comment on the quality of my own wines. As I said, I have never had any wine spoil using my techniques. And since you brought up 'medical practices', our doctor told us that baby bottles can be completely sterilized in the dishwasher instead of the age old practice of soaking them in boiling water on the stovetop. What this means to everyone is that there are many ways to make sure that your winemaking equipment is free from "nasties". If you feel that you need a $6000 autoclave to do your sterilizing, I'm sure that you can find one on e-bay. If you only feel comfortable using bleach or commercial sanitizers, then by all means use them. If you feel comfortable boiling your equipment, that will work too. I have consistently and successfully just used plain old soap and water without any problems. Cleanliness is critical, obviously, but I was merely making the point that there is no reason to go overboard if it isn't needed. This thread started with a simple question about cleanliness and everyone with an opinion has added their 2 cents. Personally, I don't like being put down simply because my approach is different from someone else's. "Brian Lundeen" > wrote in message ... > > "Dan and Alicia Quagliana" > wrote in message > ... > Sanitizers and >> sterilizers do serve a vital purpose in winemaking, and are even >> necessary >> at times, but let's remember that the ancient Sumerians were able to make >> wine without them several thousand years ago...you can too. > > And in a past life, you had some of this Sumerian wine and can comment > knowledgeably on its quality? > > Shall we emulate their medical practices for health care, too? > > Sorry, referencing the practices of ancients is rarely a strong defense of > anything. > > Brian > > |
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![]() "Brian Lundeen" > wrote in message ... > > "Dan and Alicia Quagliana" > wrote in message > ... > Sanitizers and > > sterilizers do serve a vital purpose in winemaking, and are even necessary > > at times, but let's remember that the ancient Sumerians were able to make > > wine without them several thousand years ago...you can too. > > And in a past life, you had some of this Sumerian wine and can comment > knowledgeably on its quality? > > Shall we emulate their medical practices for health care, too? > > Sorry, referencing the practices of ancients is rarely a strong defense of > anything. Then I guess we should give up on breathing, eating and sex too. What a dolt. > > Brian > > |
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![]() "Brian Lundeen" > wrote in message ... > > "Dan and Alicia Quagliana" > wrote in message > ... > Sanitizers and > > sterilizers do serve a vital purpose in winemaking, and are even necessary > > at times, but let's remember that the ancient Sumerians were able to make > > wine without them several thousand years ago...you can too. > > And in a past life, you had some of this Sumerian wine and can comment > knowledgeably on its quality? > > Shall we emulate their medical practices for health care, too? > > Sorry, referencing the practices of ancients is rarely a strong defense of > anything. Then I guess we should give up on breathing, eating and sex too. What a dolt. > > Brian > > |
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![]() "Dan and Alicia Quagliana" > wrote in message ... Sanitizers and > sterilizers do serve a vital purpose in winemaking, and are even necessary > at times, but let's remember that the ancient Sumerians were able to make > wine without them several thousand years ago...you can too. And in a past life, you had some of this Sumerian wine and can comment knowledgeably on its quality? Shall we emulate their medical practices for health care, too? Sorry, referencing the practices of ancients is rarely a strong defense of anything. Brian |
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Really well said Arne.
I used to work on sterilizers and the first rule of sterilization is clean the heck out of whatever you want to sterilize. You cannot sterilize an instrument with debris on it. A local hospital just got some people incredibly sick due to improper cleaning of instruments, I think at least 1 died. Sanitizing follows the same logic. If it does not look or smell clean, it's not. I clean with dishwashing detergent but prefer Alconox when I get around to buying it. It doesn't have any of those ridiculous scents most detergent makers now feel compelled to add. I follow that with a spritz of 1/2 teaspoon potassium meta and 1 teaspoon citric per quart of tapwater in a spray bottle. That works out to an acidic 1% solution of sulfite (approximately). I use that up in a few months or so, depending on time of year. I've never had issues following this process. Joe |
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![]() > There seems to be a popular misconception that tap water is not > "sanitary". Unless you are getting your water untreated from a well > in the middle of a cow pasture or something, it's sanitary enough for > all ordinary purposes. The advantage of "no-rinse" sanitizers is > convenience. > > If you don't believe me, mix some tapwater with a small amount of malt > extract that's been separate boiled in some water (to sanitize > anything in the extract, not the water). Bottle it and wait for it to > spoil. You will be waiting a long time I think. I actually tried > this once. After two weeks nothing had happened. > > In my experience, the primary source of microbial contamination is > inadequate physical cleaning. A drop of must or wort is left inside > some piece of equipment and grows something, which later gets > transferred to your wine or beer. Sanitizers are no substitute for > elbow grease. > > --arne > > Here, here, Arne. I use brushes and soda ash to wash and plenty of tap water to rinse. Having already tested the wine for SO2 I put the amount of potasium metabisulphite needed into the freshly rinsed container and rack. It's simple and it works. Frank |
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David wrote "There are a number of products on the market and I'm not sure
which to use. Some of them advertise as "no rinse". Does that mean some other products require a rinse? In that case what do you rinse with? Tap water? If that were true why bother sanitizing at all?" The no-rinse sanitizer I'm most familiar with is Iodophor. I have, and you can use this product to sanitize (actually sterilize I believe would be the proper term) bottles and equipment without rinsing and it will not affect the flavor of beer or wine. I would caution to not let residues of Iodophor solution dry on bottle walls as it can form a thin film that remains after you add beer or wine. If you use Chlorox you must rinse at least three times with water (use previously boiled tap water if you're worried about it). Trust me, I learned the hard way that Chlorox residue can add really bad flavors and can kill residule yeast if you are trying to naturally carbonate beer. Probably would affect champagne yeast the same way. Most winemakers us sulfite as a sanitizer. Others have given good advise on sodium and/or potassium metabisulfite use. No need to rinse these from your containers or bottles as you will have added some sulfite to your wine. Finally, it has been said many times on this forum that no pathogenic microorganisms can live in wine. Some winemakers, myself included, just make sure that the equipment and bottles are very clean before use. Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas USA |
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![]() "David" > wrote in message ... > Hi, > > I'm new to wine making and I was wondering if folks could recommend a > sanitization product. Glad to, it's called Star San. It's used by brewers and has far better sanitation properties than sulfites. It is an acid based sanitizer that keeps for months in solution. It is a completely odorless, tasteless, no rinse sanitizer that needs only a 2 minute contact time. Best of all, you won't find yourself gasping for clean air when you open the container of solution. Mix the concentrate up with distilled or RO water for best storage ability. If your local shop doesn't carry it, there's always the internet. Brian |
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![]() David wrote: > Hi, > > I'm new to wine making and I was wondering if folks could recommend a > sanitization product. I mainly need to keep fermentation vessels, a siphon, > and bottles free from spoiling microorganisms. I am making mostly small > batches a gallon or so at a time, using pasteurized juice (so I don't need > to kill off microbes in the must). Could somebody enlighten me about using pasteurized juice? I'm guessing that a must that as been boilled will not evolved in a wine identical to one that was not. Is there any benefit to this? Any drawbacks? > > There are a number of products on the market and I'm not sure which to use. > Some of them advertise as "no rinse". Does that mean some other products > require a rinse? In that case what do you rinse with? Tap water? If that > were true why bother sanitizing at all? Sanitizing doesn't mean sterilizing. If your tap water is good enough for you to drink, it's good enough to rince a fermenting vessel. Winemaking involves reactions between unrinced fruits that were exposed to all that you can find in a field + some form of treatment (chemical or not) and living micro-organism. Care in handling all material and good hygiene should be used at all time to avoid undesired organisms spoilling the wine but no need to go overboard. I used a bleach base product to clean my equipement that had been sitting in a barn unused for a few years. I rinced with plenty of tap water via a garden hose and did a I final rince using a potassium metasulfite solution. I added sodium metasulfite to the must prior to inoculating the yeast and after racking from the secondary fermentation vessel. As I'm writting, the wine is aging nicely without showing any signs of spoillage (thanks to those who advise me on how to bring the brix down). > > Also I bought some stoppers with holes for airlocks but the stoppers smell > strongly of rubber and I don't want that smell to go into the wine. Could > that happen? Did I buy the wrong thing? I would not worry about this. You can leave them in a potassium metasulfite solution a day or two if you wish. > > > Thanks, > > David Best of luck, Stefan Mazur |
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![]() I use dish soap and water to clean everything right after use, then sanitize with star-san. I used to use bleach, but found out later it could pit stainless steel and other materials, so switched to iodophor, but I like the star-san because it can be re-used for quite awhile (as long as pH remains below 3). Because of the way chlorine can combine with something in cork to cause a type of corkiness, I believe most professional winemakers are keeping bleach completely away from the winery if they're using real cork. |
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On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 11:04:51 -0500, "David" > wrote:
>Hi, > >I'm new to wine making and I was wondering if folks could recommend a >sanitization product. I mainly need to keep fermentation vessels, a siphon, >and bottles free from spoiling microorganisms. I am making mostly small >batches a gallon or so at a time, using pasteurized juice (so I don't need >to kill off microbes in the must). > >There are a number of products on the market and I'm not sure which to use. >Some of them advertise as "no rinse". Does that mean some other products >require a rinse? In that case what do you rinse with? Tap water? If that >were true why bother sanitizing at all? > >Also I bought some stoppers with holes for airlocks but the stoppers smell >strongly of rubber and I don't want that smell to go into the wine. Could >that happen? Did I buy the wrong thing? > > >Thanks, > >David > > WOW! This seems to be a conroversial subject, but I'll go out on a limb: IMHO potasium (or sodium) metabisulphite is a poor surface sanitizer. It works great in must due to the acidity. Also, I use the same equipment for brewing beer and it is inadvisable to get potasium (or sodium) metabisulphite anywhere near beer. Generally speaking, if everything is cleaned thoroughly then sanitizing is probably not truly necessary for winemaking. However, to be on the safe side sanitizing is not bad insurance. Like many others, I like Star-San. It is effective and safe for just about all materials. I also like iodophor for pretty much the same reasons, though it requires a longer period of contact and it can discolor plastic. I do use chlorine because it is so inexpensive. But chlorine will pit stainless steel, so I only use it on glass and plastic. Even at recommended dilutions, I do not consider any of the above to be "no-rinse" -- especially for beer. I rinse with either boiled water or a solution of "One-Step". Generally I use chlorine for everything but stainless, I use iodophor for stainless, and I rinse with One-Step. I came up with these procedures after consulting a microbiologist and these procedures have served me well. Truitt Smith |
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![]() > wrote in message ... > On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 11:04:51 -0500, "David" > wrote: > > > Like many others, I like Star-San. It is effective and safe for just > about all materials. I also like iodophor for pretty much the same > reasons, though it requires a longer period of contact and it can > discolor plastic. I do use chlorine because it is so inexpensive. > But chlorine will pit stainless steel, so I only use it on glass and > plastic. Even at recommended dilutions, I do not consider any of the > above to be "no-rinse" -- especially for beer. I rinse with either > boiled water or a solution of "One-Step". > Chlorine must be rinsed, but it has been demonstrated over and over that in the recommended concentrations, neither Iodophor nor Star San require rinsing. Iodophor should be very well drained, but Star San, you can leave some foam behind. It is completely undetectable. Or is it that dodecylbenzenesulphonic acid has too many syllables for you to consider it safe to ingest? ;-) Brian |
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![]() > > > WOW! This seems to be a conroversial subject, but I'll go out on a > limb: You can say that again. > > IMHO potasium (or sodium) metabisulphite is a poor surface sanitizer. Not according to a chemist and a biologist I've talked to. In the concentrations we use to as a sanitizing agent, Pot. Meta is very effective. It also has other valuable properties like neutralizing chlorine which is the bane of wine and beer makers. Plus you don't really have to worry about residue because it is widely added to wine anyway. IMHO, the only true no rinse, although Idophor and Star San are probably pretty safe too. > It works great in must due to the acidity. Just acidify your solution with a little tartaric or citric acid. I don't bother because at 12.5 g Pot. Meta to a liter of water I've never had anything grow in it. I even store my carboys bunged with solution in there and have never had anything grow in them. > Also, I use the same > equipment for brewing beer and it is inadvisable to get potasium (or > sodium) metabisulphite anywhere near beer. That's just not true. I use Pot. Meta in my brewing water to neutralize chlorine and chloromines. It's been reported that some commercial UK brews add it for product stability and some people are starting to add it to their mash. > > I also like iodophor for pretty much the same > reasons, though it requires a longer period of contact and it can > discolor plastic. It can also neutralize the SO2 many wine makers add to the wine so if used as no rinse you may have to add more Pot. Meta to compensate. >I do use chlorine because it is so inexpensive. > But chlorine will pit stainless steel, so I only use it on glass and > plastic. Chlorine bleach has so many bad properties and so much potential downside, I completely eliminated it in the brewery/winery. It may be cheap but no sanitizer I see commonly used is really that expensive. It's a small price to pay for piece of mind. Andy |
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On 1 Apr 2005 10:05:55 -0800, "JEP62" > wrote:
> > > >> >> WOW! This seems to be a conroversial subject, but I'll go out on a >> limb: > >You can say that again. > >> >> IMHO potasium (or sodium) metabisulphite is a poor surface sanitizer. > >Not according to a chemist and a biologist I've talked to. In the >concentrations we use to as a sanitizing agent, Pot. Meta is very >effective. It also has other valuable properties like neutralizing >chlorine which is the bane of wine and beer makers. Plus you don't >really have to worry about residue because it is widely added to wine >anyway. IMHO, the only true no rinse, although Idophor and Star San are >probably pretty safe too. > >> It works great in must due to the acidity. > >Just acidify your solution with a little tartaric or citric acid. I >don't bother because at 12.5 g Pot. Meta to a liter of water I've never >had anything grow in it. I even store my carboys bunged with solution >in there and have never had anything grow in them. > >> Also, I use the same >> equipment for brewing beer and it is inadvisable to get potasium (or >> sodium) metabisulphite anywhere near beer. > >That's just not true. I use Pot. Meta in my brewing water to neutralize >chlorine and chloromines. It's been reported that some commercial UK >brews add it for product stability and some people are starting to add >it to their mash. > >> >> I also like iodophor for pretty much the same >> reasons, though it requires a longer period of contact and it can >> discolor plastic. > >It can also neutralize the SO2 many wine makers add to the wine so if >used as no rinse you may have to add more Pot. Meta to compensate. > >>I do use chlorine because it is so inexpensive. >> But chlorine will pit stainless steel, so I only use it on glass and >> plastic. > >Chlorine bleach has so many bad properties and so much potential >downside, I completely eliminated it in the brewery/winery. It may be >cheap but no sanitizer I see commonly used is really that expensive. >It's a small price to pay for piece of mind. > > >Andy As I said, controversial. Granted it is an old text, but according to Greg Noonan's "Brewing Lager Beer" metabisuphite is "antifermentive, not bactericidal." Noonan also refered to sodium hypochlorite (bleach) as "a very effective sterilant." and stated that at a dilution of .2 percent it requires no rinsing. However, your point that meta will neutralize chlorine and chloromines is well taken. Cheers, Truitt |
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Not to be argumentative but I simply do not buy the 'sterilant'
comment, especially when applied to bleach. It's a sanitzer, a cleaner. Sterility is difficult to acheive and almost impossible to maintain over any length of time. It's also not necessary in wine or beer making unless you are culturing yeast slants in beer making as far as I am concerned. A 10% solution of common 5% household bleach is a great sanitizer but I rarely use it in wine or beer making. If I had vinegar in a carboy and had decided to reuse it for wine, I would use bleach. I often get used bottles back that I preclean with that 10% solution also. (I have no idea why someone would not rinse a bottle prior to returning it, but it happens more often than not...) I do agree Noonan is an expert beermaker, I have that book too and use it often. I just think the word 'sterile' is often misused in wine and beer making circles. Joe |
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Not to be argumentative but I simply do not buy the 'sterilant'
comment, especially when applied to bleach. It's a sanitzer, a cleaner. Sterility is difficult to acheive and almost impossible to maintain over any length of time. It's also not necessary in wine or beer making unless you are culturing yeast slants in beer making as far as I am concerned. A 10% solution of common 5% household bleach is a great sanitizer but I rarely use it in wine or beer making. If I had vinegar in a carboy and had decided to reuse it for wine, I would use bleach. I often get used bottles back that I preclean with that 10% solution also. (I have no idea why someone would not rinse a bottle prior to returning it, but it happens more often than not...) I do agree Noonan is an expert beermaker, I have that book too and use it often. I just think the word 'sterile' is often misused in wine and beer making circles. Joe |
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On 1 Apr 2005 10:05:55 -0800, "JEP62" > wrote:
> > > >> >> WOW! This seems to be a conroversial subject, but I'll go out on a >> limb: > >You can say that again. > >> >> IMHO potasium (or sodium) metabisulphite is a poor surface sanitizer. > >Not according to a chemist and a biologist I've talked to. In the >concentrations we use to as a sanitizing agent, Pot. Meta is very >effective. It also has other valuable properties like neutralizing >chlorine which is the bane of wine and beer makers. Plus you don't >really have to worry about residue because it is widely added to wine >anyway. IMHO, the only true no rinse, although Idophor and Star San are >probably pretty safe too. > >> It works great in must due to the acidity. > >Just acidify your solution with a little tartaric or citric acid. I >don't bother because at 12.5 g Pot. Meta to a liter of water I've never >had anything grow in it. I even store my carboys bunged with solution >in there and have never had anything grow in them. > >> Also, I use the same >> equipment for brewing beer and it is inadvisable to get potasium (or >> sodium) metabisulphite anywhere near beer. > >That's just not true. I use Pot. Meta in my brewing water to neutralize >chlorine and chloromines. It's been reported that some commercial UK >brews add it for product stability and some people are starting to add >it to their mash. > >> >> I also like iodophor for pretty much the same >> reasons, though it requires a longer period of contact and it can >> discolor plastic. > >It can also neutralize the SO2 many wine makers add to the wine so if >used as no rinse you may have to add more Pot. Meta to compensate. > >>I do use chlorine because it is so inexpensive. >> But chlorine will pit stainless steel, so I only use it on glass and >> plastic. > >Chlorine bleach has so many bad properties and so much potential >downside, I completely eliminated it in the brewery/winery. It may be >cheap but no sanitizer I see commonly used is really that expensive. >It's a small price to pay for piece of mind. > > >Andy As I said, controversial. Granted it is an old text, but according to Greg Noonan's "Brewing Lager Beer" metabisuphite is "antifermentive, not bactericidal." Noonan also refered to sodium hypochlorite (bleach) as "a very effective sterilant." and stated that at a dilution of .2 percent it requires no rinsing. However, your point that meta will neutralize chlorine and chloromines is well taken. Cheers, Truitt |
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David wrote:
> Hi, > > I'm new to wine making and I was wondering if folks could recommend a > sanitization product. I mainly need to keep fermentation vessels, a siphon, > and bottles free from spoiling microorganisms. I am making mostly small > batches a gallon or so at a time, using pasteurized juice (so I don't need > to kill off microbes in the must). > > There are a number of products on the market and I'm not sure which to use. > Some of them advertise as "no rinse". Does that mean some other products > require a rinse? In that case what do you rinse with? Tap water? If that > were true why bother sanitizing at all? > > Also I bought some stoppers with holes for airlocks but the stoppers smell > strongly of rubber and I don't want that smell to go into the wine. Could > that happen? Did I buy the wrong thing? I use 50g powdered KMS(potssium metabisulphite) in 4 litres of boiling water for sanitizing everything. You can rinse with ditilled water afterwards if you desire. |
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![]() "David" > wrote in message ... > Hi, > > In that case what do you rinse with? Tap water? If that > were true why bother sanitizing at all? > There seems to be a popular misconception that tap water is not "sanitary". Unless you are getting your water untreated from a well in the middle of a cow pasture or something, it's sanitary enough for all ordinary purposes. The advantage of "no-rinse" sanitizers is convenience. If you don't believe me, mix some tapwater with a small amount of malt extract that's been separate boiled in some water (to sanitize anything in the extract, not the water). Bottle it and wait for it to spoil. You will be waiting a long time I think. I actually tried this once. After two weeks nothing had happened. In my experience, the primary source of microbial contamination is inadequate physical cleaning. A drop of must or wort is left inside some piece of equipment and grows something, which later gets transferred to your wine or beer. Sanitizers are no substitute for elbow grease. --arne |
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David wrote:
> Hi, > > I'm new to wine making and I was wondering if folks could recommend a > sanitization product. I mainly need to keep fermentation vessels, a siphon, > and bottles free from spoiling microorganisms. I am making mostly small > batches a gallon or so at a time, using pasteurized juice (so I don't need > to kill off microbes in the must). > > There are a number of products on the market and I'm not sure which to use. > Some of them advertise as "no rinse". Does that mean some other products > require a rinse? In that case what do you rinse with? Tap water? If that > were true why bother sanitizing at all? > > Also I bought some stoppers with holes for airlocks but the stoppers smell > strongly of rubber and I don't want that smell to go into the wine. Could > that happen? Did I buy the wrong thing? I use 50g powdered KMS(potssium metabisulphite) in 4 litres of boiling water for sanitizing everything. You can rinse with ditilled water afterwards if you desire. |
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The most common sanitizer is sodium metabiosulfite or potassium
metabiosulfite. Sodium meta is cheaper and a great sanitizer. It should not be used in the wine. For that use the Potassium meta, so it is a good idea to have both. The instructions for mixing a sanitizing solution is given on the package when you get it. You should mix in some citric acid when you make the solution. This will enhance the action and I think it makes it keep longer. A solution should be good for several months and then needs to be used fresh. When you clean your carboys and are going to store them, pour a few tablespoons in each and seal it with plastic wrap. It will be sanitized when you need it 6 months or a year later. If your rubber bungs smell of rubber, soak them in the solution for a few days and they will probably loose the smell. They should not be in contact with the wine anyway but I agree that you should get rid of the smell before use. Ray "David" > wrote in message ... > Hi, > > I'm new to wine making and I was wondering if folks could recommend a > sanitization product. I mainly need to keep fermentation vessels, a > siphon, > and bottles free from spoiling microorganisms. I am making mostly small > batches a gallon or so at a time, using pasteurized juice (so I don't need > to kill off microbes in the must). > > There are a number of products on the market and I'm not sure which to > use. > Some of them advertise as "no rinse". Does that mean some other products > require a rinse? In that case what do you rinse with? Tap water? If that > were true why bother sanitizing at all? > > Also I bought some stoppers with holes for airlocks but the stoppers smell > strongly of rubber and I don't want that smell to go into the wine. Could > that happen? Did I buy the wrong thing? > > > Thanks, > > David > > > |
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![]() "David" > wrote in message ... > Hi, > > In that case what do you rinse with? Tap water? If that > were true why bother sanitizing at all? > There seems to be a popular misconception that tap water is not "sanitary". Unless you are getting your water untreated from a well in the middle of a cow pasture or something, it's sanitary enough for all ordinary purposes. The advantage of "no-rinse" sanitizers is convenience. If you don't believe me, mix some tapwater with a small amount of malt extract that's been separate boiled in some water (to sanitize anything in the extract, not the water). Bottle it and wait for it to spoil. You will be waiting a long time I think. I actually tried this once. After two weeks nothing had happened. In my experience, the primary source of microbial contamination is inadequate physical cleaning. A drop of must or wort is left inside some piece of equipment and grows something, which later gets transferred to your wine or beer. Sanitizers are no substitute for elbow grease. --arne |
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![]() "David" > wrote in message ... > Hi, > > I'm new to wine making and I was wondering if folks could recommend a > sanitization product. Glad to, it's called Star San. It's used by brewers and has far better sanitation properties than sulfites. It is an acid based sanitizer that keeps for months in solution. It is a completely odorless, tasteless, no rinse sanitizer that needs only a 2 minute contact time. Best of all, you won't find yourself gasping for clean air when you open the container of solution. Mix the concentrate up with distilled or RO water for best storage ability. If your local shop doesn't carry it, there's always the internet. Brian |
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![]() I use dish soap and water to clean everything right after use, then sanitize with star-san. I used to use bleach, but found out later it could pit stainless steel and other materials, so switched to iodophor, but I like the star-san because it can be re-used for quite awhile (as long as pH remains below 3). Because of the way chlorine can combine with something in cork to cause a type of corkiness, I believe most professional winemakers are keeping bleach completely away from the winery if they're using real cork. |
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On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 11:04:51 -0500, "David" > wrote:
>Hi, > >I'm new to wine making and I was wondering if folks could recommend a >sanitization product. I mainly need to keep fermentation vessels, a siphon, >and bottles free from spoiling microorganisms. I am making mostly small >batches a gallon or so at a time, using pasteurized juice (so I don't need >to kill off microbes in the must). > >There are a number of products on the market and I'm not sure which to use. >Some of them advertise as "no rinse". Does that mean some other products >require a rinse? In that case what do you rinse with? Tap water? If that >were true why bother sanitizing at all? > >Also I bought some stoppers with holes for airlocks but the stoppers smell >strongly of rubber and I don't want that smell to go into the wine. Could >that happen? Did I buy the wrong thing? > > >Thanks, > >David > > WOW! This seems to be a conroversial subject, but I'll go out on a limb: IMHO potasium (or sodium) metabisulphite is a poor surface sanitizer. It works great in must due to the acidity. Also, I use the same equipment for brewing beer and it is inadvisable to get potasium (or sodium) metabisulphite anywhere near beer. Generally speaking, if everything is cleaned thoroughly then sanitizing is probably not truly necessary for winemaking. However, to be on the safe side sanitizing is not bad insurance. Like many others, I like Star-San. It is effective and safe for just about all materials. I also like iodophor for pretty much the same reasons, though it requires a longer period of contact and it can discolor plastic. I do use chlorine because it is so inexpensive. But chlorine will pit stainless steel, so I only use it on glass and plastic. Even at recommended dilutions, I do not consider any of the above to be "no-rinse" -- especially for beer. I rinse with either boiled water or a solution of "One-Step". Generally I use chlorine for everything but stainless, I use iodophor for stainless, and I rinse with One-Step. I came up with these procedures after consulting a microbiologist and these procedures have served me well. Truitt Smith |
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![]() "David" > wrote in message ... > Hi, > > In that case what do you rinse with? Tap water? If that > were true why bother sanitizing at all? > There seems to be a popular misconception that tap water is not "sanitary". Unless you are getting your water untreated from a well in the middle of a cow pasture or something, it's sanitary enough for all ordinary purposes. The advantage of "no-rinse" sanitizers is convenience. If you don't believe me, mix some tapwater with a small amount of malt extract that's been separate boiled in some water (to sanitize anything in the extract, not the water). Bottle it and wait for it to spoil. You will be waiting a long time I think. I actually tried this once. After two weeks nothing had happened. In my experience, the primary source of microbial contamination is inadequate physical cleaning. A drop of must or wort is left inside some piece of equipment and grows something, which later gets transferred to your wine or beer. Sanitizers are no substitute for elbow grease. --arne |
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