Notes from a dinner-tasting of Bordeaux of the 1995 vintage - my
first look at these wines since release.

2001 Ch. La Garde - this white Graves was a bit past its
'drink-by' date. Too much toastiness in the nose plus a whiff of
maderisation, fair acidity but blunted by slightly oxidised flavours.

with whipped black cod with caviar and oyster soup

Flight 1

d'Issan (Margaux) - some nice complexity developing in the nose on
this wine, with spice and flowers, current and a hint of anise. Lots of
soft tannin right to the end, good length and a very slight terminal
bitterness, probably from the oak, which needs more time to blend in.

d'Angludet (Margaux) - also very good in the nose, and a bit riper
but less spice. Forward with a bit less grip, but excellent balance and
length. My eventual favourite after a bit of back and forth between
these two.

La Croix de *** (Pomerol) - lighter simpler nose with red berries
rather than heavier plumier fruit. Immediate acidity, not much tannin,
ready now - decent luncheon claret.

with polenta and porcini

Flight 2

Latour a Pomerol - deep herbal plumy nose, full in the mouth with a
fair bit of tannin, good length, slight bitterness at the end. Charred
oak in the nose.

Certan de May - lighter nose of cedar and toasty olive, tons of
unresolved tannins here, but sweet on palate, although with a very
slightly candied citrus quality right at the end. Needs time but may be
very good.

La Grave a Pomerol - cherry vanilla nose, good up front sweetness,
not as hard as the Certan and will certainly drink sooner - my best
of flight.

with agnelloti stuffed with morels, asparagus and veal sweetbreads

Flight 3

Magdelaine (St. Emilion) - very sweet red fruit in the nose, and
sweet and forward on palate, though backed with a medium amount of ripe
tannin. Sweet on finish with good length. This is great now and will
improve - my favourite.

Larmande (St. Emilion) - herbal slightly burnt nose, pleasant sweet
entry, supple wine that drinks well now and has decent length - no
rush.

Figeac (St. Emilion) - a very hard choice between this and the
Magdelaine. This had a nice sweet nutmeg and custard nose, was very
slightly lean in the mouth, tannins ample but soft, and good length.
Drinks well now but will live many years. Interesting 50th anniversary
label noting the vintages they did and did not produce in that period (
1951, 1956, 1963, 1965, and 1991).

with mint risotto with butter poached quail breast - nice on it's
own, but did not do any favours for the wines.

Flight 4

Haut Bailly (Pessac Leognan) - smoke and black currant nose with a
hint of mint (or was it a last whiff of the last course....)Medium
levels of soft tannin, very nicely balanced - a 'pretty' wine -
elegant.

de Fieuzal (Pessac Leognan) - big smoky plumy nose with yet more
mint. Sweet on palate, tannins soft, a smooth plush sort of wine with
slightly high acidity at the end - this got my vote for best of
flight.

Pavie Macquin (St. Emilion) - a controversial wine. Darker than the
others, with a ripe intense nose, very sweet, quite tannic and with a
flash of sweetness right at the end. I felt that it was the sort of
wine that would appeal to some people, but was a bit too ripe for me,
at least in this company.

with lamb with foie gras, black truffles and pineapple

The final wine was:

1995 Prinz von Hessen Johannisberger Klaus Riesling Auslese - I
applaud the use of German wines in this sort of event rather than the
obligatory Port or Sauternes! Nice oily nose, excellent acidity masks
the level of sugar and the wine comes off as being almost crisp, with
the sense of sweetness returning right at the end. Lingering finish.
Very enjoyable wine.

An educational event. I look forward to doing the same sort of left
bank horizontal tasting, perhaps 4 or 5 years hence.

Blind ringer:

1995 Pontet Canet - one of the darkest with a very ripe sweet nose,
soft tannins but lots of them, tons of glycerin. Drinks surprisingly
well.

In article .com>, wspohn4
@aol.com says...
>
>Notes from a dinner-tasting of Bordeaux of the 1995 vintage - my
>first look at these wines since release.
>
>2001 Ch. La Garde - this white Graves was a bit past its
>'drink-by' date. Too much toastiness in the nose plus a whiff of
>maderisation, fair acidity but blunted by slightly oxidised flavours.
>
>with whipped black cod with caviar and oyster soup

I'm a bit surprised that this one has begun to fade - possibly bad storage?
I'm just finishing my '99 Chateau D'Archambeau, which is a lessor producer,
also from the Graves Region. This was purchased as a case in '00 after a
tasting and was nice when I got it, but has really come into its own lately. I
only wish I had not used it up as a "welcome wine" and had about six bottles
left!

>

[SNIP nice notes]
>
>Figeac (St. Emilion) - a very hard choice between this and the
>Magdelaine. This had a nice sweet nutmeg and custard nose, was very
>slightly lean in the mouth, tannins ample but soft, and good length.
>Drinks well now but will live many years. Interesting 50th anniversary
>label noting the vintages they did and did not produce in that period (
>1951, 1956, 1963, 1965, and 1991).
>
>with mint risotto with butter poached quail breast - nice on it's
>own, but did not do any favours for the wines.

Always a favorite of mine. I try and score a half-case almost every year. Did
an extended vertial at a board member's Holiday Party last year and all were
wonderful. I only wish my cellar was so deep in this producer. It is also not
one of the Bdx producers with the very high US markup - I like that too!


[SNIP more good notes]
>
>The final wine was:
>
>1995 Prinz von Hessen Johannisberger Klaus Riesling Auslese - I
>applaud the use of German wines in this sort of event rather than the
>obligatory Port or Sauternes! Nice oily nose, excellent acidity masks
>the level of sugar and the wine comes off as being almost crisp, with
>the sense of sweetness returning right at the end. Lingering finish.
>Very enjoyable wine.

Yes, a nice touch. I'm fretting about the last wine to serve at an upcoming
tasting, and might just lean this direction. I've got some very good Germans
from the '70s and '80s that might just be the ticket. I do need one that I can
pre-taste, then hope that BOTH bottles are good.
>
>An educational event. I look forward to doing the same sort of left
>bank horizontal tasting, perhaps 4 or 5 years hence.
>
>Blind ringer:
>
>1995 Pontet Canet - one of the darkest with a very ripe sweet nose,
>soft tannins but lots of them, tons of glycerin. Drinks surprisingly
>well.

Nearly always a good Bdx and also found at a good price in US, which is not
always the case with Bdx with a good track record.

Sounds like a great tasting. Where was this held, or did I miss something in
my SNIP's? I'd love to "sign-up."

Also, nice to see your posts again. Thanks for the TN's, even though I am not
familiar with some of the properties.

Hunt