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Old 05-04-2017, 08:12 PM posted to alt.food.wine
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Default TN: Pape Clement vertical, + Doyard, LdH, Carillon, Guiraud

Monday night we had a Pape Clement vertical at the Musket Room on the Lower East Side. One bubbly and 3 whites to start

NV Doyard Oeil de Perdrix Rose Champagne
Very pale pink (I had to hold up to be sure was rose), quite dry, more toasty than fruity and I found a touch severe. Others liked more. B/B-

[ scallop with citrus and herb]

1994 Ch. Pape Clement Blanc
Ben said he had lots of oxidation from this case, but this was quite lovely to me, with only the oxidation youd expect in a 23 yr old. Pear and pit fruits, a waxy/oily note, good length. I really enjoyed, a bit more acid and Id have thought it extraordinary. Some others liked less. B+/A-

1996 Lopez de Heredia Tondonia Rioja Blanco Reserva
Typical oxidative notes, lemon curd and almond, good. B+

2013 F. Carillon Champ Gains Puligny-Montrachet 1er
Pretty ripe white peach and pear fruit, touch of sourness on finish. Maybe just needs time, for now B

Then the reds (not blind)

[ 2 quail legs with blackberries]

1986 Ch. Pape Clement
Full, not especially tannic, some coffee and tobacco leaf over blackcurrant fruit. I enjoy. B+

1990 Ch. Pape Clement
Redder fruit than others, cigarbox, earthy. Still some structure. B+/A-

1996 Ch. Pape Clement
Lean but not austere, very minerally (a ferric note), cocoa. I liked but liked even more on retaste. A-/B+

1998 Ch. Pape Clement
Some people preferred this to the "96, but to me this is where the modernity is beginning to show, but not overpower. Ripe fresh fruit, some mocha, good length. B+/B

[venison (red deer) with a little farro]

2000 Ch. Pape Clement
Fresh fruit, nice balance, young but giving. This is modern but I really enjoy. B+/A-

2001 Ch. Pape Clement
Big ripe fruit, but overlaid with a bit of gloss. Someone says fudge and I cant argue. Oak tannins. B/B-

2003 Ch. Pape Clement
Im surprised this isnt roasted as I expect, there is some freshness, some acids, moderate tannins, but open and ready. B+/B

2009 Ch. Pape Clement
Redder, kirschy, wood tannins, not sure how this will age. B-

2014 Ch. Pape Clement (from 2 375s)
Primary, just tannin and oak, not sure how this will emerge. B-?

[blue cheese]

1988 Guiraud
Apricot, pineapple, not intensely sweet. I didnt write anything else down for this but enjoyed.

Afterwards, we did our 3/2/1 voting for favorites of the red. An extra point scooted in there somewhere, but 2000 won going away.

2000 22 pts
1996 9
2001 8
1990 6
1998 3
2003 1

Good night with good people. Service was very good, I quite liked the space, food was delicious but we all left wishing we had a little more (some vegetable sides or more than a ¼ cup of farro would have made a big difference).

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

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