Sunday's NYT mag had a recipe from David Pasternack of Esca for fish
tacos. Really a great recipe (we did cod, with a salsa and a mayo/
cream/chipotle sauce and cabbage). I went with off dry Riesling, the
2007 Gysler Weinheimer Riesling Kabinett *(Rheinhessen).* Really a
nice wine for the $13-14 pricetag, light, but bright, lively, and
clean. Green apples and ripe nectarine fruit, a light saline note, not
especially long but a good value for what it is. B/B+

Monday Betsy was doing veal chops with sage, with a salad and a Meyer
lemon risotto. I asked her if she wanted white Burgundy or Gruner
Veltliner with the veal, she went with the GV. I went down and grabbed
a bottle of Brundlmayer. Floral, light, just a hint of spritz. I'm not
getting the characteristic pea and pepper notes of GV, and as I look
at the label I see why- what I brought up and opened was the 2007
Brundlmayer "Kamptaler Terrassen" RIESLING. OK, not what I thought,
but it does fine with the chops, and good acidity helps with the
lemon. Good but not compelling dry Riesling, so-so buy at $22. B

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
*