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Default Where did the idea of wine=meat color come from?

I'm curious about the origin of the idea that you "should" drink a
particular wine with a particular color of meat--one of the things
that, oddly enough, gave away a Russian spy in _From Russia With Love_
(you would think they'd know about that sort of thing over there,
wouldn't you?).

When did people start associating wine color with meat color?

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