FOOD & DRINK
OCTOBER 29, 2011

The Pancake of Possibilities
The dosa, South India's gluten-free crepe, can stand in for bread and
take whatever filling you toss its way

I'm addicted to dosas, the wafer-thin, oversized crepes indigenous to
the south of India. Served plain or sprinkled with chopped onions, these
versatile pancakes—made from little more than dal (dried peas, beans or
lentils), rice and water—enhance any Indian meal. And outside the bread
basket, they appear in combination with a wide range of fillings, the
most popular being tomato, herb or cheese omelets; fresh vegetables
paired with mint chutney; and—odd as it sounds—Chinese noodles flavored
with Indian spices.

I learned to make dosas and uttapam—a thicker relative of the dosa that
commonly incorporates coconut or a mix of onion, green chiles, cilantro
and tomato into the batter—on a recent trip to Kerala and Tamil Nadu,
two of the southernmost states in India. The distinct, slightly
fermented taste of these light pancakes was irresistible; from the first
bite, I was a convert. Despite being free of sugar, fat, dairy,
cholesterol and gluten—and containing fewer than 100 calories—both dosas
and uttapam are super-satisfying. Their rice-and-beans foundation also
makes them a good source of protein, while fermentation boosts their
content of vitamins B and C.

Since returning to New York, I've made this miracle food nonstop and now
keep dosa batter on hand at all times. Refrigerated plain, without any
additions, it lasts for weeks (but just in case, I always keep another
quart or two as a back up in the freezer).

Through the ages, dosas have been partnered with Indian stews such as
curries and sambars. However, a piping hot masala dosa—the pancake
spread with garlicky green herb paste and flavorful potato masala—is my
current go-to recipe for myself and company. Divinely crispy on the
outside and filled with a meltingly soft potato hash, it gets a boost of
flavor from a mix of fresh curry leaves, ginger and chiles. A barely
cooked tomato-dal chutney served alongside brilliantly gilds the lily,
brightening the dish with acidity and an unexpected crunch.

I've also learned that while quintessentially Indian, dosas are
surprisingly tasty when eaten with western food as a bread
substitute—say, as a stand-in for pita bread or as the base of a wrap
sandwich. In addition to preparing dosas for breakfast in the Indian
style—accompanied by tomato, coconut or mint chutney—I sometimes drizzle
them with very nontraditional maple or boysenberry syrup. Or, for a
special treat, roll a dosa around fresh-herbed scrambled eggs, chopped
smoked salmon, chives and a bit of sour cream. At lunch, fold a dosa
around almost any salad—chicken, potato, seafood, tuna, mixed green or
even guacamole. Encasing the warmed remains of a chicken, meat or
vegetable stew or stray roasted or grilled vegetables in a freshly made
dosa is the most delicious way I know to use up leftovers. Sprinkle
chopped basil, tarragon or parsley over your impromptu fillings and the
results fly off the charts. Use your imagination—along with the contents
of your fridge—and the scrumptious possibilities are endless.
Dosa, Potato Masala and Tomato Chutney Recipe

Dosa

Hands-on prep time for these pancakes is about 10 minutes to make the
batter and 2-3 minutes to fry up each dosa. But be sure to start at
least 24 hours ahead to allow time for the ingredients to soak and the
batter to ferment. Makes approximately 16 large dosas.
Ingredients

2 cups long-grain white or brown rice
1/4 cup urad dal*
1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
1/2 cup cooked short-grain rice or a risotto rice such as Arborio,
Carnaroli or Vialone Nano
1 teaspoon salt
Vegetable oil
Ghee or butter (optional)
What To Do

1. Soak long-grain rice, urad dal and fenugreek in warm water for at
least 6 hours and up to 24 hours.

2. Drain mixture and place in a blender with about 2 cups warm water.
Grind on high speed, gradually adding cooked rice, until you have a very
smooth batter.

3. Let batter ferment at room temperature, stirring occasionally, for at
least 12 hours or until bubbly and frothy. Once fermented, add salt and
enough water to obtain the consistency of slightly thickened cream.

4. Lightly grease a hot griddle or heavy skillet with vegetable oil.
(The oil is not necessary if using a nonstick pan.) Ladle 1/3 cup batter
(use more or less to vary size of dosa) onto griddle and, working
concentrically from center, immediately spread batter with bottom of
ladle until as thin as possible.

5. Cook over medium-high heat until bubbles form and underside of dosa
is golden, about 2 minutes. To create a crisp pancake, flip dosa and
brush with melted ghee or butter. For a softer pancake, don't flip it.

Potato Masala

This flavorful potato-vegetable side dish is also a popular dosa
filling. The recipe takes about 30 minutes to prepare and makes enough
to fill approximately 16 dosas or serve 4 as a side dish.
Ingredients

4 large Yukon gold potatoes
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/8 teaspoon asafetida powder*
10 fresh curry leaves (or substitute dried curry leaves soaked in warm
water for 10-15 minutes and drained)
2 teaspoons black mustard seeds
1 tablespoon urad dal*
1½ cups minced onions
2/3 cup chopped tomatoes
1 green chile, seeds removed and minced
1½ tablespoons minced fresh ginger
Red chile flakes, 1/4 teaspoon or to taste
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
What To Do

1. Peel potatoes, cut them in half and place in a medium saucepan. Cover
with cool water, add half the turmeric and half the salt, bring to a
boil over high heat and cook until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and
roughly chop potatoes. Set aside.

2. While potatoes are cooking, drizzle oil into a heavy skillet set over
medium heat. When oil is hot and almost smoking, add the asafetida and
curry leaves and then the mustard seeds and dal. Cook, stirring, until
the mustard seeds begin to pop and the dal is golden, 30-60 seconds. Add
onions, tomatoes, green chile and ginger to the pan. Stir-fry 1-2
minutes, then add red chile flakes and the remaining turmeric and salt.

3. Gently stir in reserved potatoes, cover and cook over medium heat for
3 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in cilantro and adjust seasoning.
Serve warm as a side dish or use to fill dosas.

Tomato Chutney

This Indian "salsa" also perks up grilled chicken, salmon fillets or
scrambled eggs. Makes 6-7 cups.

Heat 1/4 cup vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add 3
tablespoons mustard seeds and cook until seeds begin to pop. Add 1/3 cup
Bengal gram dal* and 2 tablespoons urad dal* along with 1 chopped onion,
25 fresh curry leaves, 3 tablespoons minced green chile and 3
tablespoons minced fresh ginger. Cook until onions are translucent and
beginning to color, about 5 minutes. Add 3 cups finely chopped tomatoes
and cook 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add at least 1/2 teaspoon salt
and black pepper to taste. Add 3 more cups finely chopped tomatoes and
cook briefly until heated through. Transfer to a bowl. Serve warm or at
room temperature with potato masala or plain dosas.

Masala Dosa

Dosas are painted with mint-cilantro paste, spread with potato masala
and then lightly sautéed. Hands-on time: about 20 minutes to assemble
and fry up 12-16 dosas. For easier prep, have a few skillets going at
once: one or two to cook the dosa and one or two to heat filled dosas.
In a food processor, purée 1 cup each fresh mint and fresh cilantro
leaves with 1/4 cup chopped onion, 1 clove garlic, 3 tablespoons
vegetable oil and salt and pepper to taste. Set mixture aside. Prepare
12-16 dosas, cooking them on one side only. Spread the cooked side of
each dosa with a thin layer of mint-cilantro mixture. Using prepared
potato masala, spread 2 tablespoons on one half of each dosa on top of
mint-cilantro mixture. Fold each dosa in half so it forms a semicircle.
Pat down with spatula. Lightly brush both sides of each dosa with ghee,
butter or oil. Warm skillet over medium
heat and cook dosas until golden and slightly crisp. Serve with tomato
chutney.

*Available at Indian markets and at kalustyans.com

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB1000...+possibilities