Hello,

I inheirited a very black cast-iron pan from my mom. I enjoy cooking
in it--it is very nonstick and it seems easy to clean by simply
deglazing with hot water and scrubbing well with my regular nylon
dish-cleaning brush. After each use, I dry the skillet thoroughly and
apply a thin layer of canola oil. In fact, I'm a bit obsessive about
this.

My problem is this: I keep getting rust spots developing on the bottom
of the pan. I can always remove them by scrubbing the spots with a
mixture of salt and oil, but they keep coming back. Also, on the other
side (the cooking side), it _looks_ like there may be rust _under_ the
blackened patina. It's very hard to tell--it's not obviously dry,
powdery rust like I get on the bottom, and the way that light reflects
off the surface, the redness may be a figment of my imagination.

I do not know how well the pan was treated before I got it, but I am
guessing not very well. It was sitting in my parents' basement for
years before I rescued it. They probably got it from my grandma, who
was a notoriously bad cook.

My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the seasoning/patina
layer? If there is, I think I'm just going to buy a new skillet, since
it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning, then
remove all the rust, then reseason when I can get a new, preseasoned
skillet for twenty bucks at Amazon.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Matt

On Wed 30 Mar 2005 06:49:00p, wrote in rec.food.cooking:

> Hello,
>
> I inheirited a very black cast-iron pan from my mom. I enjoy cooking
> in it--it is very nonstick and it seems easy to clean by simply
> deglazing with hot water and scrubbing well with my regular nylon
> dish-cleaning brush. After each use, I dry the skillet thoroughly and
> apply a thin layer of canola oil. In fact, I'm a bit obsessive about
> this.
>
> My problem is this: I keep getting rust spots developing on the bottom
> of the pan. I can always remove them by scrubbing the spots with a
> mixture of salt and oil, but they keep coming back. Also, on the other
> side (the cooking side), it _looks_ like there may be rust _under_ the
> blackened patina. It's very hard to tell--it's not obviously dry,
> powdery rust like I get on the bottom, and the way that light reflects
> off the surface, the redness may be a figment of my imagination.
>
> I do not know how well the pan was treated before I got it, but I am
> guessing not very well. It was sitting in my parents' basement for
> years before I rescued it. They probably got it from my grandma, who
> was a notoriously bad cook.
>
> My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the seasoning/patina
> layer? If there is, I think I'm just going to buy a new skillet, since
> it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning, then
> remove all the rust, then reseason when I can get a new, preseasoned
> skillet for twenty bucks at Amazon.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
> Matt

Really hard to say without seeing it, but why invite trouble? If it cooks
well and the surface is well-seasoned, I would try anything else with it.
When you've cleaned off the rust on the bottom, why not coat the entire pan
with solid shortening or oil and bake it in a slow oven. You might want to
repeat this several times. I don't think you need a new pan.

--
Wayne Boatwright
____________________________________________

Give me a smart idiot over a stupid genius any day.
Sam Goldwyn, 1882-1974

well, maybe i should add that my secret reason is that i want to
'start' a cast-iron pan so that it will be _my_ baby, not my
grandmother's, and i am looking for an excuse

thanks for your help.

On Wed 30 Mar 2005 08:01:07p, wrote in rec.food.cooking:

> well, maybe i should add that my secret reason is that i want to
> 'start' a cast-iron pan so that it will be _my_ baby, not my
> grandmother's, and i am looking for an excuse
>
> thanks for your help.

LOL! Then do both! One cast iron pan is never enough anyway. <g>

--
Wayne Boatwright
____________________________________________

Give me a smart idiot over a stupid genius any day.
Sam Goldwyn, 1882-1974

In > Wayne Boatwright wrote:
> On Wed 30 Mar 2005 08:01:07p, wrote in rec.food.cooking:
>
>> well, maybe i should add that my secret reason is that i want to
>> 'start' a cast-iron pan so that it will be _my_ baby, not my
>> grandmother's, and i am looking for an excuse
>>
>> thanks for your help.
>
> LOL! Then do both! One cast iron pan is never enough anyway. <g>


Oh yeah, first the pan and then the pot...



--
Cheers

Dennis

Remove 'Elle-Kabong' to reply

In article >,
Wayne Boatwright > wrote:

> On Wed 30 Mar 2005 08:01:07p, wrote in rec.food.cooking:
>
> > well, maybe i should add that my secret reason is that i want to
> > 'start' a cast-iron pan so that it will be _my_ baby, not my
> > grandmother's, and i am looking for an excuse
> >
> > thanks for your help.
>
> LOL! Then do both! One cast iron pan is never enough anyway. <g>

<snicker> Too true...

I have a #8, #10, #12 and a #14 Griswold.
I use the #14 for roasting! It fits a 20 lbs. turkey
and is a breeze to clean!

I also have a little 6" pan of unknown origin.
It's great for omelets.

--
K.

Sprout the Mung Bean to reply...

There is no need to change the world. All we have to do is toilet train the world and we'll never have to change it again. -- Swami Beyondanada

>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby Farm>,,<Katraatcenturyteldotnet>,,<

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

In article . com>,
wrote:

> well, maybe i should add that my secret reason is that i want to
> 'start' a cast-iron pan so that it will be _my_ baby, not my
> grandmother's, and i am looking for an excuse
>
> thanks for your help.
>

Ok!
Send me your old pan. ;-)
I'll even pay for postage!

I love old, antique pans...
All of the new Lodge crap on the market is no
comparison to old antique pans!

I'll treasure it like your grandmother did!

Remove the "mungbean" and this e-mail address works!

--
K.

Sprout the Mung Bean to reply...

There is no need to change the world. All we have to do is toilet train the world and we'll never have to change it again. -- Swami Beyondanada

>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby Farm>,,<Katraatcenturyteldotnet>,,<

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I inheirited a very black cast-iron pan from my mom. I enjoy cooking
> in it--it is very nonstick and it seems easy to clean by simply
> deglazing with hot water and scrubbing well with my regular nylon
> dish-cleaning brush. After each use, I dry the skillet thoroughly
and
> apply a thin layer of canola oil. In fact, I'm a bit obsessive about
> this.
>
> My problem is this: I keep getting rust spots developing on the
bottom
> of the pan. I can always remove them by scrubbing the spots with a
> mixture of salt and oil, but they keep coming back. Also, on the
other
> side (the cooking side), it _looks_ like there may be rust _under_
the
> blackened patina. It's very hard to tell--it's not obviously dry,
> powdery rust like I get on the bottom, and the way that light
reflects
> off the surface, the redness may be a figment of my imagination.
>
> I do not know how well the pan was treated before I got it, but I am
> guessing not very well. It was sitting in my parents' basement for
> years before I rescued it. They probably got it from my grandma, who
> was a notoriously bad cook.
>
> My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the seasoning/patina
> layer? If there is, I think I'm just going to buy a new skillet,
since
> it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning, then
> remove all the rust, then reseason when I can get a new, preseasoned
> skillet for twenty bucks at Amazon.

A pan that old cries out for reseasoning. Could well be badly rusted
below a thick layer of burned on food... only way to know if the pan is
worth salvaging is to totally remove everything down to bare metal. If
badly pitted it's not worth saving, use it for a door stop. Like you
said, cast iron cookware is very inexpensive, get a new one.

In article . com>,
"Sheldon" > wrote:

> wrote:
> > Hello,
> >
> > I inheirited a very black cast-iron pan from my mom. I enjoy cooking
> > in it--it is very nonstick and it seems easy to clean by simply
> > deglazing with hot water and scrubbing well with my regular nylon
> > dish-cleaning brush. After each use, I dry the skillet thoroughly
> and
> > apply a thin layer of canola oil. In fact, I'm a bit obsessive about
> > this.
> >
> > My problem is this: I keep getting rust spots developing on the
> bottom
> > of the pan. I can always remove them by scrubbing the spots with a
> > mixture of salt and oil, but they keep coming back. Also, on the
> other
> > side (the cooking side), it _looks_ like there may be rust _under_
> the
> > blackened patina. It's very hard to tell--it's not obviously dry,
> > powdery rust like I get on the bottom, and the way that light
> reflects
> > off the surface, the redness may be a figment of my imagination.
> >
> > I do not know how well the pan was treated before I got it, but I am
> > guessing not very well. It was sitting in my parents' basement for
> > years before I rescued it. They probably got it from my grandma, who
> > was a notoriously bad cook.
> >
> > My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the seasoning/patina
> > layer? If there is, I think I'm just going to buy a new skillet,
> since
> > it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning, then
> > remove all the rust, then reseason when I can get a new, preseasoned
> > skillet for twenty bucks at Amazon.
>
> A pan that old cries out for reseasoning. Could well be badly rusted
> below a thick layer of burned on food... only way to know if the pan is
> worth salvaging is to totally remove everything down to bare metal. If
> badly pitted it's not worth saving, use it for a door stop. Like you
> said, cast iron cookware is very inexpensive, get a new one.
>

Philistine!!!

That's blasphemy!
--
K.

In article .com>,
wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I inheirited a very black cast-iron pan from my mom. I enjoy cooking
> in it--it is very nonstick and it seems easy to clean by simply
> deglazing with hot water and scrubbing well with my regular nylon
> dish-cleaning brush. After each use, I dry the skillet thoroughly and
> apply a thin layer of canola oil. In fact, I'm a bit obsessive about
> this.

Substitute Olive oil...

If I wash and dry my skillet and don't oil it, then and only then does
it get a few rust spots. If I oil it after I dry it with a moderate coat
of olive oil, it does just fine!

>
> My problem is this: I keep getting rust spots developing on the bottom
> of the pan. I can always remove them by scrubbing the spots with a
> mixture of salt and oil, but they keep coming back. Also, on the other
> side (the cooking side), it _looks_ like there may be rust _under_ the
> blackened patina. It's very hard to tell--it's not obviously dry,
> powdery rust like I get on the bottom, and the way that light reflects
> off the surface, the redness may be a figment of my imagination.

It's not going to rust under the seasoning. ;-)
Quit obsessing and enjoy the pan!

>
> I do not know how well the pan was treated before I got it, but I am
> guessing not very well. It was sitting in my parents' basement for
> years before I rescued it. They probably got it from my grandma, who
> was a notoriously bad cook.
>
> My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the seasoning/patina
> layer? If there is, I think I'm just going to buy a new skillet, since
> it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning, then
> remove all the rust, then reseason when I can get a new, preseasoned
> skillet for twenty bucks at Amazon.
>
> Thoughts?

There is NO substitute for an old, well loved, well seasoned pan!

A little rust here and there is also not going to hurt anything.
Just wipe it off before you cook anything.

Use a good coating of olive oil between uses and it won't rust anymore!


>
> Thanks,
> Matt
>

--
K.

Sprout the Mung Bean to reply...

There is no need to change the world. All we have to do is toilet train the world and we'll never have to change it again. -- Swami Beyondanada

>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby Farm>,,<Katraatcenturyteldotnet>,,<

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> Hello,
>
> I inheirited a very black cast-iron pan from my mom. I enjoy cooking
> in it--it is very nonstick and it seems easy to clean by simply
> deglazing with hot water and scrubbing well with my regular nylon
> dish-cleaning brush. After each use, I dry the skillet thoroughly and
> apply a thin layer of canola oil. In fact, I'm a bit obsessive about
> this.
>
> My problem is this: I keep getting rust spots developing on the bottom
> of the pan. I can always remove them by scrubbing the spots with a
> mixture of salt and oil, but they keep coming back. Also, on the other
> side (the cooking side), it _looks_ like there may be rust _under_ the
> blackened patina. It's very hard to tell--it's not obviously dry,
> powdery rust like I get on the bottom, and the way that light reflects
> off the surface, the redness may be a figment of my imagination.
>
> I do not know how well the pan was treated before I got it, but I am
> guessing not very well. It was sitting in my parents' basement for
> years before I rescued it. They probably got it from my grandma, who
> was a notoriously bad cook.
>
> My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the seasoning/patina
> layer? If there is, I think I'm just going to buy a new skillet, since
> it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning, then
> remove all the rust, then reseason when I can get a new, preseasoned
> skillet for twenty bucks at Amazon.
>
always a dilemma.
One thing I would suggest is not to scrub with salt, it may well be the salt
which is causing the rust. The chloride in th salt combines with hydrogen in
the water to form hydrochloric acid which dissolves some of the iron forming
iron chloride, which hyrolyses forming iron oxide (the rust) and more
hyrochloric acid, ad infinitum. So, do not use salt. Nearly all my
pans/skillets are cast iron. I find I can use mild detergent and still
retain the non-stick surface patina, evindenced by the way the water forms
small droplets after rincing. I would say, like you, thorough drying is very
important.
HTH
cheers
Wazza

On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 12:36:06 +0000 (UTC), "Wazza"
> wrote:

>The chloride in th salt combines with hydrogen in
>the water to form hydrochloric acid which dissolves some of the iron forming
>iron chloride, which hyrolyses forming iron oxide (the rust) and more
>hyrochloric acid, ad infinitum.

Howdy,

'Sorry, but when salt is mixed with water, there is no
hydrochloric acid formed.

All the best,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

In article >,
Kenneth > wrote:

> On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 12:36:06 +0000 (UTC), "Wazza"
> > wrote:
>
> >The chloride in th salt combines with hydrogen in
> >the water to form hydrochloric acid which dissolves some of the iron forming
> >iron chloride, which hyrolyses forming iron oxide (the rust) and more
> >hyrochloric acid, ad infinitum.
>
> Howdy,
>
> 'Sorry, but when salt is mixed with water, there is no
> hydrochloric acid formed.
>
> All the best,
> --
> Kenneth

True...
but salt/water is still nearly as caustic. ;-)
--
K.

Katra wrote:
> In article >,
> Kenneth > wrote:
>
>
>>On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 12:36:06 +0000 (UTC), "Wazza"
> wrote:
>>
>>>The chloride in th salt combines with hydrogen in
>>>the water to form hydrochloric acid which dissolves some of the iron forming
>>>iron chloride, which hyrolyses forming iron oxide (the rust) and more
>>>hyrochloric acid, ad infinitum.
>>
>>Howdy,
>>
>>'Sorry, but when salt is mixed with water, there is no
>>hydrochloric acid formed.
>>
>>All the best,
>>--
>>Kenneth
>
> True...
> but salt/water is still nearly as caustic. ;-)

No. It really isn't. Wholly different effects from wholly different
processes. Salt water won't dissolve you like HCL will.

Pastorio

In article >,
"Bob (this one)" > wrote:

> Katra wrote:
> > In article >,
> > Kenneth > wrote:
> >
> >
> >>On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 12:36:06 +0000 (UTC), "Wazza"
> > wrote:
> >>
> >>>The chloride in th salt combines with hydrogen in
> >>>the water to form hydrochloric acid which dissolves some of the iron
> >>>forming
> >>>iron chloride, which hyrolyses forming iron oxide (the rust) and more
> >>>hyrochloric acid, ad infinitum.
> >>
> >>Howdy,
> >>
> >>'Sorry, but when salt is mixed with water, there is no
> >>hydrochloric acid formed.
> >>
> >>All the best,
> >>--
> >>Kenneth
> >
> > True...
> > but salt/water is still nearly as caustic. ;-)
>
> No. It really isn't. Wholly different effects from wholly different
> processes. Salt water won't dissolve you like HCL will.
>
> Pastorio

It won't dissolve ME, but it sure as heck will oxidize cast iron if left
on long enough! <lol> Or steel too...

Look what salted roads in the winter do to cars???????????

Notice I said "nearly". ;-)

--
K.

Sprout the Mung Bean to reply...

There is no need to change the world. All we have to do is toilet train the world and we'll never have to change it again. -- Swami Beyondanada

>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby Farm>,,<Katraatcenturyteldotnet>,,<

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

If that were true then we would have nasty acid burns from canned soup
and vegetables! When you dissolve salt in water, you get salt water.
Both H2O and NACl are very stable compounds and it would take quite a
lot of energy to make them separate into their elements (H and O or NA
and Cl) which is what would be required to enable them to recombine in
to HCl.

What's happening is the iron is oxidizing when exposed to the air
(which has O2). The salt is acting as an abrasive and removing the
surface rust and exposing iron that hasn't corroded.

I would suggest oiling the surface that is rusting. And not using salt
because it's abrasive properties may remove the oil.

Heidi

Heidi wrote:
> If that were true then we would have nasty acid burns from canned soup
> and vegetables! When you dissolve salt in water, you get salt water.
> Both H2O and NACl are very stable compounds and it would take quite a
> lot of energy to make them separate into their elements (H and O or NA
> and Cl) which is what would be required to enable them to recombine in
> to HCl.
>
> What's happening is the iron is oxidizing when exposed to the air
> (which has O2). The salt is acting as an abrasive and removing the
> surface rust and exposing iron that hasn't corroded.
>
> I would suggest oiling the surface that is rusting. And not using salt
> because it's abrasive properties may remove the oil.
>
> Heidi
>

Not only that - salt water gargles for sore gums, etc. would light you
up like a burning bush were it HCl.


jim

On 31 Mar 2005 11:20:38 -0800, "Heidi" > wrote:

>If that were true then we would have nasty acid burns from canned soup
>and vegetables! When you dissolve salt in water, you get salt water.
>Both H2O and NACl are very stable compounds and it would take quite a
>lot of energy to make them separate into their elements (H and O or NA
>and Cl) which is what would be required to enable them to recombine in
>to HCl.
>
>What's happening is the iron is oxidizing when exposed to the air
>(which has O2). The salt is acting as an abrasive and removing the
>surface rust and exposing iron that hasn't corroded.
>
>I would suggest oiling the surface that is rusting. And not using salt
>because it's abrasive properties may remove the oil.
>
All true. But, I scrub the insides of cast iron pans with salt DRY
rubbed around with a paper towel. This doesnt remove the seasoning of
the pan.

A fresh-water rinse gets the salt off without disturbing the
seasoning.

I have seen rust spots on the bootom outside. I don't worry about
that.





Rodney Myrvaagnes J36 Gjo/a


MOM CASTS TOT IN CEMENT

Most experts voice cautious optimism

In article om>,
"Heidi" > wrote:

> If that were true then we would have nasty acid burns from canned soup
> and vegetables! When you dissolve salt in water, you get salt water.
> Both H2O and NACl are very stable compounds and it would take quite a
> lot of energy to make them separate into their elements (H and O or NA
> and Cl) which is what would be required to enable them to recombine in
> to HCl.

When dissolved in water, there are natural concentrations of [OH] and
[H] (H_3 O? It's been a long time since chemistry.). There's something
like 10^-7 mols of ions per dl^3. The exponent there is what gives you
the pH of 7. Salt dissolved in water also separates into [Na] and [Cl]
to a fairly large extent, IIRC. So does HCl. In particularly, what makes
HCl such a strong acid is that it disassociates a lot and gives you a
lot of excess hydrogen ions which get to react with everything.

Or something like that.

Aaron

In article <abergman-8086D2.01584301042005@localhost>,
Aaron Bergman > wrote:

> In article om>,
> "Heidi" > wrote:
>
> > If that were true then we would have nasty acid burns from canned soup
> > and vegetables! When you dissolve salt in water, you get salt water.
> > Both H2O and NACl are very stable compounds and it would take quite a
> > lot of energy to make them separate into their elements (H and O or NA
> > and Cl) which is what would be required to enable them to recombine in
> > to HCl.
>
> When dissolved in water, there are natural concentrations of [OH] and
> [H] (H_3 O? It's been a long time since chemistry.). There's something
> like 10^-7 mols of ions per dl^3. The exponent there is what gives you
> the pH of 7. Salt dissolved in water also separates into [Na] and [Cl]
> to a fairly large extent, IIRC. So does HCl. In particularly, what makes
> HCl such a strong acid is that it disassociates a lot and gives you a
> lot of excess hydrogen ions which get to react with everything.
>
> Or something like that.
>
> Aaron

Same for Sodium Hypochlorite.... ;-) But it's basic, not acidic, and
still a terrible caustic.

A 10% solution of NaOCl has a higher ionization potential than using it
pure, so it has better disinfection properties. That is why we use a 10%
solution on the counters in the lab at work. It kills all viruses and
bacteria on contact.

It'll also eat your skin, and ruin your clothing colors if you splash!

And it'll kill you with the fumes if you mix it with HCl!

We get people into the ER every spring that mix those two chemicals in
the bathroom for spring cleaning. :-( Never mix ammonia and HCl either!!!

Hell, never mix HCl with ANYTHING! While it's great for removing lime
deposits quickly, it can be very dangerous if used carelessly.

And never use it on Cast iron. ;-)
--
K.

No, salt dissolved in water doesn't naturally separate in to Na and Cl
in large amounts. It takes energy (electricity) to get it to do that.
If that were true, then we would have lots of people dying from
chlorine gas vapors. From this website:

http://www.ucc.ie/ucc/depts/chem/dol...m/elem017.html

"Chlorine is manufactured industrially as a by-product in the
manufacture of Caustic Soda by the electrolysis of brine.
2 NaCl + 2 H2O ==> Cl2 + H2 + 2 NaOH
This process was carried out in Kellner-Solvay Cells, using Mercury and
Carbon as the electrodes. However, due to the toxicity of mercury, the
modern version of the process uses metal electrodes with special
membranes in the electrolytic cells."

Heidi

In article .com>,
"Heidi" > wrote:

> No, salt dissolved in water doesn't naturally separate in to Na and Cl
> in large amounts. It takes energy (electricity) to get it to do that.
> If that were true, then we would have lots of people dying from
> chlorine gas vapors. From this website:
>
> http://www.ucc.ie/ucc/depts/chem/dol...m/elem017.html
>
> "Chlorine is manufactured industrially as a by-product in the
> manufacture of Caustic Soda by the electrolysis of brine.
> 2 NaCl + 2 H2O ==> Cl2 + H2 + 2 NaOH
> This process was carried out in Kellner-Solvay Cells, using Mercury and
> Carbon as the electrodes. However, due to the toxicity of mercury, the
> modern version of the process uses metal electrodes with special
> membranes in the electrolytic cells."
>
> Heidi

Damn this is fun. ;-)
First time I've ever seen a cast iron thread turn into a chemistry
lesson!

--
K.

Sprout the Mung Bean to reply...

There is no need to change the world. All we have to do is toilet train the world and we'll never have to change it again. -- Swami Beyondanada

>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby Farm>,,<Katraatcenturyteldotnet>,,<

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

In article .com>,
"Heidi" > wrote:

> No, salt dissolved in water doesn't naturally separate in to Na and Cl
> in large amounts.

I'm pretty sure NaCl completely disassociates. Check out

<http://www.chem.tamu.edu/class/majors/tutorialnotefiles/ksp.htm>
<http://home.att.net/~cat6a/electrolysis-I.htm>

The strong disassociation is what allows salt water to conduct.

> It takes energy (electricity) to get it to do that.
> If that were true, then we would have lots of people dying from
> chlorine gas vapors.

The ions are Cl-, while the gas is Cl_2. I think it's not easy to make
the covalent bond in the aqueous solution. But it's been a looooong time
since chem.

Aaron

Far as I can tell, someone wrote:
>it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning, then
>remove all the rust, then reseason

Blasphemy!

Why not buy some newly made antiques while your at it...?

Just wash it thoroughly in very soapy water. Maybe twice. It'll take ten minutes.

Dry immediately.

Coat the entire thing with olive oil and stick it in the oven for two hours at 300 or
so.

Done. Like new.

Petey the Wonder Dog wrote:
> Far as I can tell, someone wrote:
> >it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning,
then
> >remove all the rust, then reseason
>
> Blasphemy!
>
> Why not buy some newly made antiques while your at it...?
>
> Just wash it thoroughly in very soapy water. Maybe twice. It'll take
ten minutes.
>
> Dry immediately.
>
> Coat the entire thing with olive oil and stick it in the oven for two
hours at 300 or
> so.
>
> Done. Like new.

Really not worth it if it's pock marked from rust acne... if you can't
bare to part with the olde piece of crap use it for a decorative plant
saucer. Contrary to what some may want to believe modern metalurgy has
made possible far, FAR better quality cast iron than was used in those
antiques... and don't buy any cast iron cookware with machined
surfaces, those are totally worthless.

Sheldon

In article . com>,
"Sheldon" > wrote:

> Petey the Wonder Dog wrote:
> > Far as I can tell, someone wrote:
> > >it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning,
> then
> > >remove all the rust, then reseason
> >
> > Blasphemy!
> >
> > Why not buy some newly made antiques while your at it...?
> >
> > Just wash it thoroughly in very soapy water. Maybe twice. It'll take
> ten minutes.
> >
> > Dry immediately.
> >
> > Coat the entire thing with olive oil and stick it in the oven for two
> hours at 300 or
> > so.
> >
> > Done. Like new.
>
> Really not worth it if it's pock marked from rust acne... if you can't
> bare to part with the olde piece of crap use it for a decorative plant
> saucer. Contrary to what some may want to believe modern metalurgy has
> made possible far, FAR better quality cast iron than was used in those
> antiques... and don't buy any cast iron cookware with machined
> surfaces, those are totally worthless.
>
> Sheldon
>

Blech. ;-P

I have yet to find a modern piece of iron pan crap
that is ANY comparison to the beauty and non-stickedness of my
old antique Griswolds!

Shel' honey, I don't understand why you get involved in the cast
iron threads! You don't use the stuff so you have no clu'. ;-)

Hugs!
Kat
--
K.

Katra wrote:
> In article . com>,
> "Sheldon" > wrote:
>
> > Petey the Wonder Dog wrote:
> > > Far as I can tell, someone wrote:
> > > >it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning,
> > then
> > > >remove all the rust, then reseason
> > >
> > > Blasphemy!
> > >
> > > Why not buy some newly made antiques while your at it...?
> > >
> > > Just wash it thoroughly in very soapy water. Maybe twice. It'll
take
> > ten minutes.
> > >
> > > Dry immediately.
> > >
> > > Coat the entire thing with olive oil and stick it in the oven for
two
> > hours at 300 or
> > > so.
> > >
> > > Done. Like new.
> >
> > Really not worth it if it's pock marked from rust acne... if you
can't
> > bare to part with the olde piece of crap use it for a decorative
plant
> > saucer. Contrary to what some may want to believe modern metalurgy
has
> > made possible far, FAR better quality cast iron than was used in
those
> > antiques... and don't buy any cast iron cookware with machined
> > surfaces, those are totally worthless.
> >
> > Sheldon
> >
>
> Blech. ;-P
>
> I have yet to find a modern piece of iron pan crap
> that is ANY comparison to the beauty and non-stickedness of my
> old antique Griswolds!

Your cranium. And didja ever see a cast iron bitch... look in the
mirror.

In article . com>,
"Sheldon" > wrote:

> Katra wrote:
> > In article . com>,
> > "Sheldon" > wrote:
> >
> > > Petey the Wonder Dog wrote:
> > > > Far as I can tell, someone wrote:
> > > > >it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning,
> > > then
> > > > >remove all the rust, then reseason
> > > >
> > > > Blasphemy!
> > > >
> > > > Why not buy some newly made antiques while your at it...?
> > > >
> > > > Just wash it thoroughly in very soapy water. Maybe twice. It'll
> take
> > > ten minutes.
> > > >
> > > > Dry immediately.
> > > >
> > > > Coat the entire thing with olive oil and stick it in the oven for
> two
> > > hours at 300 or
> > > > so.
> > > >
> > > > Done. Like new.
> > >
> > > Really not worth it if it's pock marked from rust acne... if you
> can't
> > > bare to part with the olde piece of crap use it for a decorative
> plant
> > > saucer. Contrary to what some may want to believe modern metalurgy
> has
> > > made possible far, FAR better quality cast iron than was used in
> those
> > > antiques... and don't buy any cast iron cookware with machined
> > > surfaces, those are totally worthless.
> > >
> > > Sheldon
> > >
> >
> > Blech. ;-P
> >
> > I have yet to find a modern piece of iron pan crap
> > that is ANY comparison to the beauty and non-stickedness of my
> > old antique Griswolds!
>
> Your cranium. And didja ever see a cast iron bitch... look in the
> mirror.
>

Mmmmm... count on it sweetie! ;-)
You are welcome to check out this "cast iron bitch" personally! <lol>

Remember. I am not a bitch.
I am THE Bitch
and it's Ms. Bitch to you honey!

<lol>

--
K.

Sprout the Mung Bean to reply...

There is no need to change the world. All we have to do is toilet train the world and we'll never have to change it again. -- Swami Beyondanada

>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby Farm>,,<Katraatcenturyteldotnet>,,<

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

Far as I can tell, someone wrote:
>Contrary to what some may want to believe modern metalurgy has
>made possible far, FAR better quality cast iron than was used in those
>antiques...

Maybe it's "possible", but so are 150,000 mile tires.

And it ain't gonna happen in this lifetime.

My old cast iron pans are worth their weight in chopped liver.
With red onions, of course...

In article >,
Petey the Wonder Dog > wrote:

> Far as I can tell, someone wrote:
> >it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning, then
> >remove all the rust, then reseason
>
> Blasphemy!
>
> Why not buy some newly made antiques while your at it...?
>
> Just wash it thoroughly in very soapy water. Maybe twice. It'll take ten
> minutes.
>
> Dry immediately.
>
> Coat the entire thing with olive oil and stick it in the oven for two hours
> at 300 or
> so.
>
> Done. Like new.

<applause!!!>
--
K.

wrote:
> My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the seasoning/patina
> layer?

Well, anything is possible, I guess! I don't think anyone's mentioned
this yet - you can remove all of the old seasoning if you put it
through a self-clean cycle in the oven. It sort of turns the clock
backwards, and you can start the seasoning all over.

As far as rust - I don't know how you dry it, but I always put mine
back on low heat on the stove for 5-10 minutes (while I finish cleaning
the kitchen). I used to put them in a 250 F oven for 20 minutes, but
I'd invariably forget them for hours.

June

> wrote in message
ups.com...
>
> wrote:
> > My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the seasoning/patina
> > layer?
>
> Well, anything is possible, I guess! I don't think anyone's mentioned
> this yet - you can remove all of the old seasoning if you put it
> through a self-clean cycle in the oven. It sort of turns the clock
> backwards, and you can start the seasoning all over.
>
> As far as rust - I don't know how you dry it, but I always put mine
> back on low heat on the stove for 5-10 minutes (while I finish cleaning
> the kitchen). I used to put them in a 250 F oven for 20 minutes, but
> I'd invariably forget them for hours.
>
> June

Like I did last night - put my wok in at 8pm and remembered at 2am that it
was still in the oven

Elaine

wrote:
> wrote:
> > My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the
seasoning/patina
> > layer?
>
> Well, anything is possible, I guess! I don't think anyone's
mentioned
> this yet - you can remove all of the old seasoning if you put it
> through a self-clean cycle in the oven.

Har!

Poor student doesn't have a self-cleaning oven. Barely has an oven at
all. It's more like a warmer

Update: I bit the bullet and bought the 12" lodge logic skillet from
amazon. It's only fifteen bucks and I'm part of an amazon prime group,
so what the hey, right?

The last straw came after I oiled the old pan and threw it in a 350
oven for an hour. When I opened up the oven the pan had many _more_
rust spots than before, in places that had looked perfectly fine before
the new round of seasoning.

I am not too sad as I only used my old pan for about two months and am
just starting to get excited about cast iron. Cannot wait for my new
baby to arrive next week.

Thanks everyone for the input,

Best,
Matt F.

wrote:
> wrote:
> > wrote:
> > > My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the
> seasoning/patina
> > > layer?
> >
> > Well, anything is possible, I guess! I don't think anyone's
> mentioned
> > this yet - you can remove all of the old seasoning if you put it
> > through a self-clean cycle in the oven.
>
> Har!
>
> Poor student doesn't have a self-cleaning oven. Barely has an oven at
> all. It's more like a warmer
>
> Update: I bit the bullet and bought the 12" lodge logic skillet from
> amazon. It's only fifteen bucks and I'm part of an amazon prime
group,
> so what the hey, right?
>
> The last straw came after I oiled the old pan and threw it in a 350
> oven for an hour. When I opened up the oven the pan had many _more_
> rust spots than before, in places that had looked perfectly fine
before
> the new round of seasoning.
>
> I am not too sad as I only used my old pan for about two months and
am
> just starting to get excited about cast iron. Cannot wait for my new
> baby to arrive next week.
>
> Thanks everyone for the input,

Gentlest way to clean cast iron is to bury it in the ground, about a
foot deep, for about a year... the natural organisms in the earth will
denude it of all organic matter. Interment, especially where there are
four distinct seasons with a freezing winter, will also relieve
internal stress, making the piece less likely to fracture... this is
the true cast iron seasoning, and from whence the term originated...
expensive high quality cast iron engine blocks, especially large
diesel, used to be seasoned exactly thusly for many years before
becoming engines, now there's a high tech method that accomplishes the
same thing in mere hours rather than years; "meta-lax". And no, it
won't help your constipation.

Sheldon

My family always oils the cast iron pans after they've been washed and then
put the pan away. My aunt's pan is many many years old (she's now 94) and
still in mint condition....I think she has always just wiped it out with a
paper towel instead of washing it each time and it's nicely black and oiled
for the next use.


"Sheldon" > wrote in message
oups.com...
>
> wrote:
> > wrote:
> > > wrote:
> > > > My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the
> > seasoning/patina
> > > > layer?
> > >
> > > Well, anything is possible, I guess! I don't think anyone's
> > mentioned
> > > this yet - you can remove all of the old seasoning if you put it
> > > through a self-clean cycle in the oven.
> >
> > Har!
> >
> > Poor student doesn't have a self-cleaning oven. Barely has an oven at
> > all. It's more like a warmer
> >
> > Update: I bit the bullet and bought the 12" lodge logic skillet from
> > amazon. It's only fifteen bucks and I'm part of an amazon prime
> group,
> > so what the hey, right?
> >
> > The last straw came after I oiled the old pan and threw it in a 350
> > oven for an hour. When I opened up the oven the pan had many _more_
> > rust spots than before, in places that had looked perfectly fine
> before
> > the new round of seasoning.
> >
> > I am not too sad as I only used my old pan for about two months and
> am
> > just starting to get excited about cast iron. Cannot wait for my new
> > baby to arrive next week.
> >
> > Thanks everyone for the input,
>
> Gentlest way to clean cast iron is to bury it in the ground, about a
> foot deep, for about a year... the natural organisms in the earth will
> denude it of all organic matter. Interment, especially where there are
> four distinct seasons with a freezing winter, will also relieve
> internal stress, making the piece less likely to fracture... this is
> the true cast iron seasoning, and from whence the term originated...
> expensive high quality cast iron engine blocks, especially large
> diesel, used to be seasoned exactly thusly for many years before
> becoming engines, now there's a high tech method that accomplishes the
> same thing in mere hours rather than years; "meta-lax". And no, it
> won't help your constipation.
>
> Sheldon
>

On 1 Apr 2005 20:14:02 -0800, "Sheldon" > wrote:

>
wrote:
>> wrote:
>> > wrote:
>> > > My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the
>> seasoning/patina
>> > > layer?
>> >
>> > Well, anything is possible, I guess! I don't think anyone's
>> mentioned
>> > this yet - you can remove all of the old seasoning if you put it
>> > through a self-clean cycle in the oven.
>>
>> Har!
>>
>> Poor student doesn't have a self-cleaning oven. Barely has an oven at
>> all. It's more like a warmer
>>
>> Update: I bit the bullet and bought the 12" lodge logic skillet from
>> amazon. It's only fifteen bucks and I'm part of an amazon prime
>group,
>> so what the hey, right?
>>
>> The last straw came after I oiled the old pan and threw it in a 350
>> oven for an hour. When I opened up the oven the pan had many _more_
>> rust spots than before, in places that had looked perfectly fine
>before
>> the new round of seasoning.
>>
>> I am not too sad as I only used my old pan for about two months and
>am
>> just starting to get excited about cast iron. Cannot wait for my new
>> baby to arrive next week.
>>
>> Thanks everyone for the input,
>
>Gentlest way to clean cast iron is to bury it in the ground, about a
>foot deep, for about a year... the natural organisms in the earth will
>denude it of all organic matter. Interment, especially where there are
>four distinct seasons with a freezing winter, will also relieve
>internal stress, making the piece less likely to fracture... this is
>the true cast iron seasoning, and from whence the term originated...
>expensive high quality cast iron engine blocks, especially large
>diesel, used to be seasoned exactly thusly for many years before
>becoming engines, now there's a high tech method that accomplishes the
>same thing in mere hours rather than years; "meta-lax". And no, it
>won't help your constipation.
>
>Sheldon

Sheldon, this is pure bulls**t and youhave to know it. If you bury a
cast iron object for a year it will be covered with deep rust. Also
the idea of an auto maker burying thousands of engines (a whole years
supply) is incredalbe. Either provide a reference to this or admit
you are full of it all the way to your brown eyes.

In article >,
Allan Matthews > wrote:

> On 1 Apr 2005 20:14:02 -0800, "Sheldon" > wrote:
>
> >
> wrote:
> >> wrote:
> >> > wrote:
> >> > > My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the
> >> seasoning/patina
> >> > > layer?
> >> >
> >> > Well, anything is possible, I guess! I don't think anyone's
> >> mentioned
> >> > this yet - you can remove all of the old seasoning if you put it
> >> > through a self-clean cycle in the oven.
> >>
> >> Har!
> >>
> >> Poor student doesn't have a self-cleaning oven. Barely has an oven at
> >> all. It's more like a warmer
> >>
> >> Update: I bit the bullet and bought the 12" lodge logic skillet from
> >> amazon. It's only fifteen bucks and I'm part of an amazon prime
> >group,
> >> so what the hey, right?
> >>
> >> The last straw came after I oiled the old pan and threw it in a 350
> >> oven for an hour. When I opened up the oven the pan had many _more_
> >> rust spots than before, in places that had looked perfectly fine
> >before
> >> the new round of seasoning.
> >>
> >> I am not too sad as I only used my old pan for about two months and
> >am
> >> just starting to get excited about cast iron. Cannot wait for my new
> >> baby to arrive next week.
> >>
> >> Thanks everyone for the input,
> >
> >Gentlest way to clean cast iron is to bury it in the ground, about a
> >foot deep, for about a year... the natural organisms in the earth will
> >denude it of all organic matter. Interment, especially where there are
> >four distinct seasons with a freezing winter, will also relieve
> >internal stress, making the piece less likely to fracture... this is
> >the true cast iron seasoning, and from whence the term originated...
> >expensive high quality cast iron engine blocks, especially large
> >diesel, used to be seasoned exactly thusly for many years before
> >becoming engines, now there's a high tech method that accomplishes the
> >same thing in mere hours rather than years; "meta-lax". And no, it
> >won't help your constipation.
> >
> >Sheldon
>
> Sheldon, this is pure bulls**t and youhave to know it. If you bury a
> cast iron object for a year it will be covered with deep rust. Also
> the idea of an auto maker burying thousands of engines (a whole years
> supply) is incredalbe. Either provide a reference to this or admit
> you are full of it all the way to your brown eyes.

ROFL!!!
_I_ knew he was just joking!!!
But then, I'm used to Shel's sense of humor..... ;-)
--
K.

After traveling all week, finally back to a hi-speed connection.

And not wanting to read thru 60 or so responses to see if the solution was
posted

Answer is pretty straightforward - see below

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> Hello,
>
> I inheirited a very black cast-iron pan from my mom. I enjoy cooking
> in it--it is very nonstick and it seems easy to clean by simply
> deglazing with hot water and scrubbing well with my regular nylon
> dish-cleaning brush.

Nylon is a material that is hard enough to abrade the black oxide, and it
scrapes the protective black iron oxide from the surface, allowing red oxide
to form.

The red iron oxide forms in the air using a carbon dioxide molecule found in
most water and around humans, and black oxide basically forms in the
absence of air (a bit more complicated, but that's the basics).
-----------

I developed/refined the following method about 30 years ago, using basic
engineering applied to some observations I had made on my iron pans
( Lazy as I am, I did it in response to my desire to minimize cleaning
time and to minimize reseasoning.
Since using it, my several iron pans and kettles have never been in
water, never reeseasoned, and are now more non-stick to most foods than the
latest generation of teflon coating - by test)
I don't know if this method is used elsewhere in the general form, and
maybe even better, but I have shared the following method for at least 25
years.

Use a natural bristle vegetable brush like those angled on the wooden
handle. (You will need the handle to keep your hand out of the steam the
method creates, and nylon melts in the pan as well as abrades the black
oxide)
(note that the method doesn't work as well if the iron is at cooking
temp rather than at frying temp. So if I was cooking or roasting, I bring
the temp slowly up to frying with maybe a tbs of oil added in the pan - med
or med-high)
------------

Clean the iron pan as follows:
Immediately after removing the fried items from the pan, while the pan is
at med/med-high frying temperature -
quickly drain the oil off, into a safe container or paper towel ball

IF YOU DO NOT DRAIN THE OIL OFF, THE WATER YOU ADD CAN GET UNDER IT, TURN
TO STEAM, AND EXPLODE TO THROW THE OIL OUT OF THE PAN AS A BLOB OF BOILING
OIL !!!!!!

and quickly then, under the hood or over the sink, using less than ten
seconds -

put a couple tablespoons (no more!!) of cold water in the hot pan and
immediately swirl it around while the mix is boiling and steaming - use the
brush firmly in quick swirlings as if you were making gravy with the brush.
Most clings lift in 1-2 seconds as the brush passes. Clean anything
especially sticky off within ten-fifteen seconds, and dump the "gravy "-

IT WILL STEAM !!! Too much water will crack the pan as well as stop the
cleaning, so don't add much more and keep the water moving in the pan.

add a bit more water and brush the surface again, dump it, and do it once
again with a bit more water until the pan is just warm.

Hang it up and its done. 30 seconds, tops.

In my kitchen, the meat hasn't even stopped sizzling on the plate by the
time the pan is on the rack.
(That might be in part because I can hold the pan in one hand and run the
brush with the other, and because I put the brush in running water to get my
two tablespoons into the pan for that first and second swirl)

I usually wipe it off with a paper towel to get the grease off the back of
the pan.

If I ever have a spot that just won't budge (maybe twice since I had the
pans), I will use a nylon pad in the one little spot, trying to minimize
b;ack removal - and then slowly reheat the pan with some olive oil in the
bottom, and do the cleaning method.

Have never had any red oxide - ever.

>After each use, I dry the skillet thoroughly and
> apply a thin layer of canola oil. In fact, I'm a bit obsessive about
> this.
>
> My problem is this: I keep getting rust spots developing on the bottom
> of the pan. I can always remove them by scrubbing the spots with a
> mixture of salt and oil, but they keep coming back. Also, on the other
> side (the cooking side), it _looks_ like there may be rust _under_ the
> blackened patina. It's very hard to tell--it's not obviously dry,
> powdery rust like I get on the bottom, and the way that light reflects
> off the surface, the redness may be a figment of my imagination.
>
> I do not know how well the pan was treated before I got it, but I am
> guessing not very well. It was sitting in my parents' basement for
> years before I rescued it. They probably got it from my grandma, who
> was a notoriously bad cook.
>
> My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the seasoning/patina
> layer? If there is, I think I'm just going to buy a new skillet, since
> it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning, then
> remove all the rust, then reseason when I can get a new, preseasoned
> skillet for twenty bucks at Amazon.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
> Matt
>